[If you could live anywhere/world, where would it be?]

Ideally - NYC in spring, London in summer, Paris in autumn & Melbourne in winter

[Ramsay on the Ropes]

fyi - I lunched at Petrus today (v good whoever the chef was)  but only 4 other tables in use.

[Elizabeth David's works]

No pictures!

[The Fat Duck 2002]

I was taken to the Fat Duck for my birthday yesterday lunchtime.  I was given the choice of FD or the Waterside Inn - what an arse I feel right now.

The place itself is a curious blend of old-English house and modernist décor which frankly doesn't work.  There were bold paintings on the wall and I couldn’t tell if they were there a serious works of art of if Heston & the gang had done them between sittings.  But I wasn't here for the décor - I came for the food and have longing to come for quite some time.

The 3 course meal itself was transformed into a 6 course event - 3 pre starters set us off.  The first was a glass full of foam the novelty of which wore off quickly.  It was scented with lime and green tea but this was only just detectable as an aftertaste.  Never mind.

Next came a huge bowl with a dimple in the middle in which sat a tiny teaspoon sized quenelle of mustard seed ice cream.  Around this a deep crimson red cabbage veloute was poured.  Things were looking up- I really enjoyed that one although my partners faced took on many a strange contortion was the mustard did its work.

This was followed by a 3-layerd jelly of pea, something or other and langoustine reduction.  It was a bit like popping a stock cube into your mouth.  We were not the only ones who didn't eat more than mouthful.  Offensively bad.

Starters.  My partner went for the foie gras with jasmine - truly delicious and simply presented.  It came with some kind of jelly - but I didn't catch what.

I had the lasagne of langoustine & pigs trotter.  It looked wonderful but I not entirely sure I liked it - the langoustine & shreds of trotter and herbs were placed between two lose squares of pasta surrounded by a pig trotter reduction - there was a musty underside to this which I still can't place.  They grated black truffle over the top - damned if I could detected it.

Mains - partner chose the pigeon which was stunningly presented in little mounds with foamy sauced atop.  The highlight of that was a filo parcel stuffed with confit of the pigeon leg & wild cherries.  The dish went cold quickly as the palates were only just warm & not hot.

I went for the sea bass with vanilla.  A fine dish but instantly forgettable.

Dessert - by this time we decided to play it safe & both went for the tart tatin.  My partner loved it - I thought it was just OK.  I suspect the tart was not made to order as it had a re-heated quality about it and I thought it a bit dry & non of the essential caramel.

This was followed by little post dinner tasties - the famous beetroot jelly (fab), a little pasty with green herby cream (seriously awful) and a red pepper lollipop (what was he thinking?).

Wine - I was very please to see a large selection by the glass - however, I didn’t have any as I was driving.

Service - impeccable - lovely & not too friendly waiting staff who were very attentive.

Cost - pennies short of 150 pounds.  

Overall - I am really glad I went for the experience but I really can’t see me going back.  The food it too gimmicky and not enjoyable enough to pay that kind of money (58 pound each for the food).  It doesn’t come close to the lunch menu of, say, the Captial and nowhere the likes of Le Manior or even GR@C.

And do you know what's worse - for once I am forced to agree with LML.  

[Table conversation at restaurantsWe were talking a]

you must have amazing self-control.  you can't see how sometimes you can't help but hear?

I was actually be deadly serious - I don't listen to others private conversations.  Yes - sometimes I can't help but "hear" what others are saying - but I don't "listen" i.e. take it in.   Oh dear, maybe I am a bit weird.

[Striving for imperfection]

no, that was tommy

[Table conversation at restaurantsWe were talking a]

Am I alone in not eavesdropping on other peoples conversations?  It just seems such a rude thing to do.

[Striving for imperfection]

You want dumb?

Years ago I saw some idiot painting a lattice work of molten chocolate onto an inflated balloon.  When the chocolate sets the balloon is pricked & collapses so fast that you are left with a cage of chocolate.  "I can do that" says I not yet fully appreciating my limitations.

So there I was in my newly painted kitchen with a balloon & pot of chocolate dribbling the molten stuff decoratively around.  Of course, half way through the bloody thing went bang!  Bits of molten chocolate went flying across the room in all directions - over me & over the new kitchen.  Just about every single thing in the kitchen was hit - every cup, hanging pot & pan; light sockets & shades, on the table, under the table & chairs - you could even make out a chocolate silhouette of me against the wall when my body got hit most.  It was in my hair, all over my glasses, in my nostrils - some even got down my shirt & in my socks.  

My partner ran down to see what on earth had happened as all that could be heard was loud hysterical laugher  - tears & chocolate steaming down my face.

That's not all - when I came 'round - a good 10 min later - I stared at all that was surrounding me & said - "maybe the chocolate was too hot".  Another balloon was blown - 5 min later - bang!  Even months later we'd still find little bits of chocolate here & there.

[Grodon Ramsay at Claridges]

GR@C - the rematch

Went to GR@C for the second time.  And a very impressive return visit it turned out to be.  Three menu’s were offered - pre-theatre (25 pounds), standard (50 pounds) and tasting (60 pounds).  We chose the tasting menu and had, in fact, booked for that purpose having had the 3 course dinner in February.

2 glasses of champagne were presented - courtesy for the house (result of an earlier complaint).  The pre-starters were a plate of mini-toasts with a foie gras pate and another with some puree & truffled vegetables.  Both delicious.

First course - bullion with ceps - small cup of broth.  Interesting but hardly worth the bother – it had no focus or body - definitely a disappointment.  It also set alarm bells wringing in our heads as our first visit - the  food was good rather than great.

The second course effortlessly lifted our spirits - a mosaic of foie gras and carpaccio of goose breast - served on a pentangle of spinach leaves with a spiral of mango puree encompassing it.  Bloody amazing.  (Note - the foie gras wasn't as good as I’ve had in St Johns - but it was good close second).

This followed quickly with what is fast becoming GR's signature dish - lobster raviolo.  Its a good dish but I always expect more from lobster than it delivers - it usually a bit rubbery for my liking and it can be a bit tastless.  Although that was semi-true of this dish - it was quite lovely - served with a pungent basil puree & bitter tomato sauce.  

Next, a split - my guest had the lamb - I had the roasted pork belly.  The lamb - 4 large pieces of loin served on a bed of pulses & pureed something or other - with deep fried delicate onion rings and a fine jus. This should have been outstanding except that the lamb was tough & stringy.  A major oversight. (We divided our plates equally before eating  - much to the waiter's horror - otherwise we'd have sent it back).  The roast pork, however, was a revelation on cooking - a succulent round of pork with sweetness, depth & juiciness provided by the hands of a truly master craftsperson.  This was only to be out done but the accompanying Madeira reduction.  A stunning dish perfectly executed.

We had a little break as they seemed to wanted us to eat the 6 courses in record speed. We knew we had to get out by 9pm - but it was only 7.45 & we'd eaten 2/3 of the meal.  So they gave a respectful distance for a while.

The next course was either pineapple dessert or cheese (8 pound supplement).  We almost made the biggest mistake of the evening by going for the cheese.  The carpaccio of pineapple one of the most sumptuous & beautifully presented desserts I can remember having.  A tall thin glass with compote of pineapple at the bottom with a creamy granita of pineapple on top.  Frozen sugared mint flake topping it.  Resting on the rim pf the glass was a painfully thin slice of caramelised pineapple.  A marvellous sight to behold and eat.

The final dish was an almond brulee resting on a perfectly crumbly shortbread dish topped with a poached pear and pear sorbet.  Delicious & definitely not sickly sweet.

Wines - St Joseph (42 pounds) and a desert wine (38 pounds) - can't for the life of me remember what the desert wine was but it had lots of orange scents and a respectful deep colour.

Petit fours - little jellies (ok), salted caramel (horrible) and ice cream covered in white chocolate (astonishing).

This was definite improvement on our first visit - the service was slicker.  There were a few minor disappointments - the first course & the lamb - but overall it was a seriously good meal.

[Side dish for seared tuna?]

Little individual rostis with a green salad

or selection of roasted vegetables.

Personally - I loathe mash w tuna.

[Anti-solo diner policies in New York]

A general question for all - when dining alone how do you amuse yourself?  Although I tend to take a book or newspaper with me but I often find that at night the lighting is too low for my poor eyes.  Does anyone have more ingenious ways occupy themselves?

[Gary Rhodes]

you could ask him about his association with Tate & Lyle. He was interviewed on the BBC "Food-Junkies" special about sugar and was very unhappy when it was vaguely suggested that had compromised himself.

I'm glad someone picked up on this.  He didn't come over very well at all - then again, he may not have fully known what the programme was going to be about.  I guess he was probably pissed off when he saw the final thing.  (For those who didn't see it - it was a documentary about the sugar and the suspect marketing that goes into selling it - plus a lot more).

I didn't like his earlier shows because they were a bit gimicky for my taste - but in the last couple of years he's turned into a fairly watchable tv chef.  His food is never very exciting (to my mind).  I've only eaten in his Edinburgh establishment - food was passable but served cold.  I've eaten in the Peoples Place once or twice (I don't know if he's still involved) - again OK rather than great.

Overall - he's ok but a bit bland.

[Anti-solo diner policies in New York]

Wilfred - I sympathise as I have been refused a booking when dining alone.  I now always make the booking for 2 and say that my guest had to cancel last moment when I arrive at the restaurant.

[My homemade bread is tasteless & I don’t know why]

I’ve been experimenting with bread recently & although I can get it to rise & have a decent texture I can’t seem to get it to taste of anything (with one exception - seeded loaf).  I’ve tried different flours, mixing flours, adding oil/butter, milk & milk powder and so on.  The one thing that I haven’t changed in the yeast – I use fast yeast packets and do so because I have never been able to find dry yeast or yeast cakes.  Does yeast make a difference to the taste or does my problem lie elsewhere?

[What’s the meal by which all others are judged?]

I’ve heard a few people talking about a specific meal which, in their eyes, reached the dizzying heights of perfection and from that point onwards all meals are judged.  For me (so far & and obviously because I’ve never been to Ludlow ) it was at Gordon Ramsay’s on February of last year.  What’s yours, if any?

[What's the structure of your kitchen?]

What's the structure of your kitchen?  How many chefs/minions do you have on a usualy day?  Is there a steady turnover or do you have a solid, loyal team?  When recruiting do you find this easy to do locally or is there a nominal waiting list from all over the country?

[Dinner! 2002]

Yesterday - had friends over that I hadn't seen in a while & so did a bit more than usual.  The meal started with terrine of beetroot & confit of celeriac bound in an aspic-type jelly.  Accompanied with home made seeded loaf and raw spinach salad.

Mains - chicken breast (works better w lamb but one guest doesn't eat red meat) marinaded in Madeira then slow roasted.  Another terrine but of potato and wild mushroom (a la Charlie Trotter) with roasted asparagus and roasted pressed Parma ham (ham strips roasted between two heavy trays).  The sauce was a Madeira & port reduction with some of the chicken stock.

Desert - home made ivory ice cream (white cholocate) with sable of raspberries.  I even managed to rustle up some pettis fours of physalis dipped in caramel (a la Le Gavroche).

Don't know why but I'm a bit knackered today.

[What's more important - the food or the company?]

What's more important - the food or the company?

[Moro]

Moro – Saturday 4 May

In true cabrales style I asked for a menu.  Here it is (slightly abridged).

Starters

Ajo blanco – cold almond soup with white grapes – 4 pounds

Pan fried sweetbreads w lemon & cardamom – 6 pounds

Charcuteria w paprika & salad – 6 pounds

Warm borlotti beans & artichoke w flatbread – 6.50 pounds

Charcoaled sardines w harissa – 6 pounds

Eel adobo w rocket & lemon – 6 pounds

Main

Wood roasted quail with couscous & salads – 14 pounds

Charcoal grilled lamb with milk braised vegetables – 15 pounds

Charcoal grilled turbot w chard & walnut tarator – 14.50 pounds

Wood roast pork belly w black beans, peppers & green beans – 15 pounds

Wood roasted scallops w chickpeas & spinach – 15.50 pounds

Moroccan salads w anise bread – 11 pounds

Deserts

Chocolate & apricot tart – 4 pounds

Rosewater & cardamom ice cream – 4 pounds

Yoghurt cake w pistachios – 4 pounds

Mango sorbet – 4 pounds

Malagan raise ice cream – 4 pounds

Picos de Europa, cremosotis de zujar and zamarano cheeses w membrillo – 5 pounds

First thing – they booked us for the wrong night - but it wouldn’t be a problem if we finished by 9pm.  Bread waitress served us some wonderful bread – slightly ruined by the fact that she was chewing gum.  The place itself is quite informal, welcoming & relaxing.  The from open kitchen wonderful wood smells filled the place.  

Starters – we had the almond soup & warm borlotti & artichoke salad.  The almond soup was simply wonderful – creamy, refreshing & not overpowering.  Towards the end of the dish it became less pleasant as the larger particles of ground almonds having sunk left a not too welcoming grittiness in the mouth.  Perhaps passing it though a slightly finer sieve would enhance this promising starter.  I had the warm salad which OK rather than good – they skimped on the artichokes & overpowered the dressing with dill.

Mains – roast lamb & scallops.  The wood roast lamb wonderfully cooked with a not overpowering woody flavour.  It was nice and succulent.  The accompanying braised veg in milk was also wonderful but there simply wasn’t enough of it – there was too much lamb & not enough vegetables.  The rocket salad was undressed & a bit too peppery for the rest of the dish.  I had the roasted scallops which were faultlessly prepared (they came with the coral – a plus).  The chickpea & spinach was simple, lemony & buttery.  Very good.

Deserts.  I had the cardamom & rosewater ice cream – this was quite disappointing – the combination had a musty aftertaste & not too my liking.  My partner had the chocolate & apricot tart.  This was easily the star of the meal – it looked heavy & sticky but nothing could have been further from the truth – it was light, airy and melted on contact with your tongue.  Truly astonishing.

Wines – the wine list was entirely Spanish and seemed reasonably priced.  As we were driving it was a couple of glasses by the glass – I didn’t pay much attention so nothing really to report here.

Overall – it’s the kind of place to take friends where you want to have a good time with the food as a backdrop rather than it being centre stage.  It was very relaxed with a great atmosphere but you could easily have a not so great meal if you weren’t careful when choosing.    Cost - 71 pounds.

6/10 would be a reasonable score.

[Customers demands and food substitutions]

There has been a quite a lot of debate on this site about customers asking for one ingredient in a dish to be exchanged with something else.  How do you normally react to this & what kind of problems or pressures does this put of the kitchen?

[How do you go about creating a menu?]

When constructing a menu is nutritional balance an important consideration.  Do you ever feel constrained by always having to have, say, a beef, a chicken, a lamb and a fish dish.  Is the menu when created ridged or do you vary or rework some dishes depending on mood or availability?

[Who or what are your main influences?]

Shaun - thanks for agreeing to take part.  It is greatly appreciate by all of us.

Now or in the past, who do regard as your peers and who inspires you most?

What about the produce itself – are you moved by (local) produce or by a particular cuisine or method of cooking?

[How do we perceive taste?]

Thanks for the post - very helpful.

[How do we perceive taste?]

It is my understanding that taste comes down to four basic operators: sweet, salt, sour & bitter.  If that’s true then how do we perceive such things as mint, chilli, aniseed?  Can anyone help shed some light on this?

[Movies/Films with Food-Related Themes]

PS - I used to live in Hoboken

then why don't you talk about some of your hoboken/nj dining experiences!!??

nothin' worth rememberin'