SobaAddict70

Mmmm. Let's hear it for cabby. Tonight's dinner was the first TRUE dinner I've had in about a week. Unfortunately, it will be the last one until next weekend as I will revert to a corporate slave for the next five days. Oh well. Roasted figs with rosemary, goat cheese and pancetta. Fettuccine with caviar and ricotta. Mixed berries with zabaglione. SA

Here is the version I usually make (although I skip the mortadella), from "The Classic Italian Cookbook" by Julia Della Croce (DK Publishing, 1996): 1 c. fresh or canned drained tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped, with juice reserved 2 T. unsalted butter 1/2 T. EVOO 1 oz. pancetta, finely chopped 1 small onion, finely chopped 1 small celery rib with leaves, finely chopped 1 T. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 6 oz. lean ground beef 3 oz. ground pork 1 oz. mortadella, finely chopped, optional salt, to taste 1/3 c. good quality dry white wine 1/3 c. milk good pinch of freshly grated nutmeg 2 T. tomato paste 2/3 c. meat broth or good stock 1 quantity pasta fresca cut into tagliatelle, or 1 1/2 lb. dried pasta such as fusilli or orecchiette freshly ground white or black pepper, to taste freshly grated Parmesan (pref. parmagianno reggiano) 1. Strain tomato juice and discard seeds. Set aside the chopped tomatoes and their juice. 2. In a large heavy-bottomed pan or deep skillet, melt 1 1/2 T. of butter with the oil. Stir in the pancetta and saute until lightly colored. 3. Add the onion, celery, carrot and parsley, and saute until softened but not browned, about 12 minutes. Keep the heat very low, and add the ground meat, mortadella (if using), and the salt. Allow the meat to color lightly, about two minutes, and use a wooden spoon to break up the chunks. 4. Pour in the wine. Simmer very gently until the alcohol evaporates and the liquid begins to be absorbed, about 3 minutes. 5. Add the milk and nutmeg, and simmer for 10 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste, dissolved in 1/4 c. of broth. Add the tomatoes and juice. As soon as the sauce begins to simmer, turn the heat down as low as possible. Cover partially and cook for at least 4 hours, stirring occasionally. Add the remaining broth as the sauce cooks. 6. When the sauce is thick, creamy, and fragrant, remove it from heat and stir in the remaining butter and pepper. Check the seasoning. 7. Bring 4 quarts of salted water to a rapid boil. Cover the pot, and as soon as the water returns to a boil, remove the lid and stir again. Cook the fresh pasta for 10 seconds after the water has returned to the boil, then drain immediately, or cook the dried pasta until al dente, then drain. 8. Transfer the pasta to a warm serving bowl, toss with the sauce, and sprinkle with Parmesan. Serve immediately. Serves 6 to 8.

You forgot to add "Familiarity with a wide range of appropriate adjectives and adverbs when composing a restaurant review/general food interest articles" I cringe every time I read a so-called food writer who shows a limited awareness of the depth of the English language in his or her articles. The SF Chronicle's main food critic comes to mind....what's his name? -- he popped up as a link in the "Compromised Critics" thread. SA

I've been stuck in the office for the past three days, so almost no time to post....but later perhaps. The version I most often make includes all of the above in Mario B's. recipe but is a little more detailed. For example, it includes mortadella as a substitute for the pancetta. Ragu bolognese, when made properly, is noted for the "sweetness" inherent in its flavor, which comes from the inclusion of ground (or shredded) pork and a tiny amount of milk. Bugialli, Hazan and Kasper all offer authentic versions of the sauce, although I prefer Julia Della Croce...but that's just me. I should add that when making the ragu, don't forget to include the leaves of the celery stalk -- this will impart an extra level of herbaceousness to the final product. One version of ragu bolognese is made from cubes of beef, veal and pork that have been cooked separately, and snipped or shredded to pieces using kitchen shears. The shredded meat is then combined with the sauce or cooked further with the sauce. Will post sometime this weekend, when I have time. No clue as to when that will be... SA

My preferences (in order of preference): Sparkling: Pellegrino, Perrier (plain), San Lucia Flat: Evian (for that "silky" taste sensation), Poland Spring

I'm predictable, aren't I? hehe Researchgal -- its a commercial product -- ginger/honey vinegar. (no, Liza, its not as bad as Mrs. Dash....not by a long shot. hehe) SA

Your standard workout dinner yesterday evening: broiled chicken breasts and couscous, steamed veggies. However, broiled the chicken breasts with a T. of olive oil and some Patak's eggplant chutney on top; slowly caramelized some onions in a bit of EVOO and a generous pinch of Hungarian paprika, then combined the onions with minced cilantro, chopped golden sultanas, and chopped blanched almonds with the couscous. And there was much rejoicing. =) Steamed zucchini with a splash of ginger vinegar. Evian. Orange sorbet. SA

When I'm not working late at the office, at least four evenings a week, not counting breakfast and lunch during the weekend. I reserve one or two evenings for "cooking breaks"....aka eating out. If I didn't, I think I'd go bananas. I cook for both my roommate and I, and sometimes friends who stop by for impromptu get-togethers....occasionally my bf. Most of what I do, I either make ahead or prep in advance. That said, a well-stocked kitchen and refrigerator is a great boon when I'm in a hurry. If I know I'm having a dinner party, I try to make the appropriate stock(s) the preceding Saturday, and freeze them. If I'm caught unawares, and its happened in the past, College Inn or my local Chinese restaurant comes to the rescue. You'd be surprised what plain Chinese chicken broth from a reliable Cantonese take-out joint can do in a pinch. If I know vegetarians will be coming by, I try to accomodate them, even by making roasted veggie stock for use in whatever's on the menu. Freezer trays and zip lock bags rule. SA

I seem to recall a similar dish he made while at Lutece, although it wasn't listed on the menu, and that he would only make it for people who specifically requested it basically a round of puff pastry with a filling of onions, bacon, potatoes, eggs, creme fraiche. Everything was layered with the eggs being in the middle and the onions as a base. It was the first time I had seen potatoes in what was essentially a savory pie. SA

heh, well Tommy, it won't be authentic Italian, but it will still be good. you may want to use cherry tomatoes and lots more than 8 though. I prefer chopped fresh tomatoes, salt, pepper, EVOO and basil (toss the basil in just before serving). also sometimes combo with chopped fresh oregano or mint. SA

I've never made it either, but this is my guess: Slice off niblets from corn cobs (freshly picked preferred, to maximize the amount of sugar present in the corn), briefly saute them in some unsalted butter; cover and lower heat to medium-low, and cook for about ten to fifteen minutes or until niblets are tender; reserve about a third of the niblets. Add half-and-half or light cream to saucepan and reduce until the cream lightly coats the back of a wooden spoon. While the cream is reducing, puree the reserved niblets in a blender or food processor, adding some light cream if the mixture gets too thick; season to taste with salt and white pepper. Add the pureed corn to the reduced cream/corn mixture, and reduce heat to low, cook for about five to ten more minutes, stirring occasionally. Adjust seasoning and serve. I would imagine you'd use heavy cream if you wanted a thicker, more viscous consistency similar to that of the canned version... Maybe someone who's actually made it could jump in.... SA

I know who Captain James Tiberius Kirk is. I dunno about this bozo. hmmm...anyone at all able to enlighten me? Buehler? =P SA

Who is Sissy Biggers? Someone remind me again please? I have a vague idea of who this person is. Also I dunno about no British host on RSC. I used to watch TFN....but now I gag when I see His Majesty of Lard. "Kick it up a notch!" Indeed. SA

I get your point, but I think you're confusing my request. I'm asking people to be sensitive to the fact that there maybe people who might get offended at certain terms that on the surface appear innocuous. I'm not asking David to be something he's not. I'm sure if the proverbial shoe were on my foot, that there would be a hue and cry...and not an emphasis to let "people be people". Un-pc comments are inappropriate if posted in public (what y'all do in your PMs is none of my business, nor anyone else's). My two cents... SA

Jason, In the gay community, "queer" is used as an adjective, a noun and in some cases, as an epithet (and has both ameliorative and pejorative connotations). I suppose I could have used the term "gay" but in my opinion, the two terms are similar enough in meaning that it doesn't really much matter which ones are used. Seriously though, I don't mean my responses to be perceived as a flame. I was merely objecting to the use of "gay" as a descriptor in what was clearly a pejorative/inappropriate context. Used in the context that chopjwu12 posted in his response, it goes far and beyond being "un-pc". Other people may not have found it offensive...I did, and therefore am requesting nicely if he (or anyone else for that matter) could please refrain from using such terminology in the future, at least in public. There are other, more appropriate uses for language on these boards, as you and I both well know. SA

David/Chopjwu12, I hope you meant this as a typo and not as a pejorative. I happen to be queer and I find the comment slightly offensive. In the future, could you please keep in mind that not everyone who frequents this site uses language in the same way that you happen to. Thank you very much, SA

Pretty inspiring. Next time I'll add a little less Mrs. Dash and a lot more red pepper flakes. The sauteed onions were key though. I'm thinking maybe caramelized onions and garlic in some EVOO with a fillet of anchovy tossed in for kicks. a sprinkle of red pepper flakes, and a handful of chopped sultana raisins or red currants. Not bad for an appetizer. Egulleteers: Don't try this at your next dinner or dinner party unless you want people to look at you funny. The above is an example of my weird food combo inspirations I get from time to time. I once made my version of Swedish meatballs by cooking ground beef meatballs in a sauce composed of melted grape jelly and green Tabasco. It turned out not bad -- only a dish a mad scientist or a mother could love. hehe Friday: Dinner at Home Restaurant. Not worthy enough for a report on the NYC restaurant board, imo. But it was nice enough for what it was. Cornmeal fried oysters with a radish/green onion slaw and basil tartare. Puree of wild mushrooms and barley soup. Roasted chicken with garlicky greens and deep fried Vidalia onion rings, homemade ketchup. Spice-crusted pork chop with country ham and frisee salad, white corn griddle cake and homemade barbecue sauce. Pellegrino. Blueberry cheesecake with blueberry sauce. --------- Saturday: Seared some scallops; for the sauce, reduced a half cup of fresh squeezed orange juice, added in a few knobs of butter, tossed in some julienned orange and lemon zest. Plated the scallops with a drizzle of the citrus sauce on top. Sauteed some garlic and an anchovy fillet in some EVOO. Added a dried red chile pepper. Tossed in cooked spaghetti with a little of the pasta cooking water (discarded the red pepper). Cooked a little more, added some fried breadcrumbs and minced Italian parsley. Pellegrino. Orange sections, macerated in a couple of teaspoons of rose water. -------- Sunday: Roasted some garlic cloves, carrots, onions and tomatoes. In a pot of simmering chicken stock, added the vegetables (peeled the garlic first). White pepper, salt. Chopped fresh oregano. Added a can of black beans. Cooked for about ten to fifteen minutes, then pureed the soup in batches. Garnished with some chopped tomatoes, a spoonful of sour cream, and a chiffonade of basil. Leftover chicken breast from lunch, which I made into a sandwich with some cranberry chutney, sliced tomatoes and rye bread. Pellegrino. Caramelized some bananas in some butter. Sprinkle of light rum over the bananas. Served over vanilla ice cream.

Steve P.: I thought a WILFburger Special could be had at Wilfrid's place. Silly me. SA

P-san: Oh, I grasped the concept 20 pages ago. I just like arguing sometimes. I still say that succotash with a sprinkle of white truffle oil rates the same level of interest as ratatouille....in some respects. But I have to say, just because no one would choose to put a hamburger inside a foie gras doesn't mean it can't (and won't) be done in the near (or distant) future. I mean, look at what they did to ice cream two or three years ago (Tabasco ice cream, anyone?). It'll probably be a sorry mess, but I'm sure if you look hard enough, you can find someone to eat it. SA

Or her review of Le Cirque 2000, where she denigrates the restaurant for treating ordinary people like nobodies by packing them off to Siberia -- if only to illustrate the dichotomy that exists even in the rarefied world of fine dining, between the average Joe on the street who has more experience with cheap eats but wants to experience the hallmarks of American-French haute cuisine, and regular consumers of the Escoffier school of la cuisinaire (sp). hm now I'm definitely babbling... SA

Oh whatever. I was eating while reading the newspaper and surfing the web. Bully for you. hehe mmmm -- lunch was roast lamb with roasted tomato, sweet pepper and rosemary jus, rice pilaf and french cut green beans. Evian. Life is good...now what were we saying? SA

"When was the last time anybody charged $35 for soup in New York?" "And so you give in to the luxury of the $35 soup, a virginal concoction of leeks, potatoes and white truffles crowned by sweet little langoustines. Butternut squash soup seems even more decadent, a luscious orange mush studded with bits of duck breast and chunks of foie gras." Ok, I stand corrected. Maybe the reason why its so high is because of the cost of the truffles and the langoustines. But it still seems a bit much for something that is basically a glorified vegetable soup topped with mini-seafood. I still say we hold the cook-off. But I don't expect that that will be the definitive end (if any) in this particular debate, no sireee bob. For the complete review by Madame Reichl, te clicketa here SA

hm on second thought maybe it did have truffles in it. I just seem to remember the $35 sticker shock. Oh, and I think she gave them 3 stars. I may have to dig up the review (and pay them moolah out of my own pocket). I'm still waiting for my free airplane ticket, Mr. Fat Guy. heheheh SA

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaagh!!!!!! My eyes have glazed over just reading the last few pages.... Calgon, take me away.....! Maybe we should hold a tasting demo at the next pot luck -- In one corner, chicken consomme with vegetables, made as they would at Lespinasse: chicken stock made in the traditional French manner, and clarified to death; baby vegetables cooked separately and combined at the last minute, and served with a scattering of fresh herb. I still am shocked, four years later, that they would charge $35 for a bowl of chicken soup. $35!!!!! And it doesn't even have truffles in it. I doubt that Alain Ducasse would even go there -- or maybe he does... (if you don't believe me, see the review by Ruth Reichl on the NYTimes website/archive). In the other corner: chicken soup with pasta, fava beans and mint or chicken soup with chunks of chicken, tender vegetables and dumplings. Of course this version wouldn't be made in the traditional French manner, but probably in the traditional Jewish grandmother style, you know -- the one that's legendary when it comes to curing colds. And it still tastes great! Then we could invite a bunch of egulleteers and let the tasting games begin. But that will never happen. Oh well, it was nice while I thought about it. (g) I'd add that at the Lespinasse level, mistakes shouldn't happen, and there's less room for error. At the family or cheap eats level, you expect mistakes but they don't seem glaringly obvious, or maybe its because we usually overlook them. Or maybe I'm babbling. SA

You must mean tapenade -- this is a sauce or spread that uses black olives. This is a recipe for tapenade that Mario Batali gives in his "Simple Italian Food" (Clarkson Potter, 1998), page 38. 6 anchovy fillets, soaked in milk overnight, drained and patted dry 2 T. anchovy paste 1 c. pitted black olives (such as Gaeta or Kalamata) 1/4 c. capers, roughly chopped 3 T. Dijon mustard 3 T. red wine vinegar 1/2 c. EVOO 1/2 small red onion, roughly chopped Combine all ingredients in a food processor and blend until a smooth, homogenous paste is formed, about 2 minuts. Transfer to a jar, cover tightly and store in the refrigerator up to 2 weeks. Makes 2 cups. Tapenade is traditionally made in a mortar and pestle, and can be used as a dip with crudites, spread on crusty bread, or with plenty of fresh herbs mixed in, as a quick pasta sauce. When storing tapenade, be sure to pour a thin layer of olive oil on top. The OO acts as a protective layer that partially inhibits bacterial growth.