SobaAddict70

Very interesting re Babbo. For future reference, here are a few threads that relate to Babbo: Babbo (Frank Bruni's re-review) Babbo (pre-Bruni) Personally, I'm not a fan of the secondi. Their apps and pastas rate far superior in my view. Try the pasta tasting menu next time and see what you think. Soba

Pork ribs braised in coca-cola? Tell us about that. Soba

They don't have to, but speaking for myself, I derive satisfaction from a review if the reviewer manages to impart concrete, specific information. That doesn't seem to be the case with Bruni. On another note, whereas Grimes focused on decor and design, and Reichl focused on the food and presentation, Bruni seems to focus on indicia that are irrelevant to the restaurant he's reviewing more than half of the time. Should falling lamps and broken toilets be mentioned? Seems like filler to me. Soba

Precisely. Without derailing this thread too much, I think we can all agree that subtlety in Indian cuisine encompasses several degrees of separation, so a phrase such as "an especially subtle curry" isn't really very descriptive. It's a piece of information that's not particularly informative. I'd never have thought that that was possible until now. Soba

← "an especially subtle curry" What in blazes is that supposed to mean? In what way was it subtle? Soba

Thought I'd bump this up since we're discussing two other staples of French comfort food: boeuf bourguignon and coq au vin. Although Mr. Apple's article is now available via the NYTimes archive, there's no reason we can't continue the discussion in this thread. One recipe for pot au feu calls for chicken, chicken gizzards, beef top round, veal shank, and oxtail -- and that's just for the meat! Marrow bones are optional. Some people like to serve their pot au feu with cabbage and new potatoes, some with baguettes, some with horseradish and cornichons. And let's not stop with just pot-au-feu. What about tafelspitz and other dishes in this genre? Soba

I think it has to do with being a holdover from classical Chinese cuisine, where purity of flavor was paramount in preparing a dish. It's akin to the French technique of straining stock to get rid of impurities and using the resulting liquid in making a sauce. You can probably skip the step, but I wonder if something isn't lost in the final transition. Soba

Probably no help but trillium's class in the eGCI comes to mind. The rinsing question popped up in the Q&A as well. Soba

Had dinner at Minca (first time for me) this past weekend with a friend. mascarpone, Minca's slipped? It wasn't detectable to me, but then I hadn't had the benefit of prior experience. My friend declared Minca a step above Rai Rai Ken. I had the Char Siu ramen, can't remember what my friend had. I definitely want to try the stewed pork belly once next time. Radish salad was kind of "ehhh", should have gotten their gyoza. Ah well, next time. I love that their broth has a nice mouthfeel. Soba

NY Times Weekend Update Friday, 28 January 2005 -- Sunday, 30 January 2005 Dining In/Dining Out Section and the Sunday Magazine Jewel Bako Robata (Frank Bruni) Restaurants: Sweet Relief For more information regarding Sweet Relief, please click here. Reacquaintances (John Burnham Schwartz) The Arsenal (Amanda Hesser) Recipes in today's issue: 1. Oyster Chowder 2. Whiskey Cake Soba

It's been slightly past half a year since Frank Bruni began his tenure as chief restaurant critic for the New York Times. In the past six months, what kinds of shifts have you detected in the New York restaurant industry that seem a marked difference of orientation than when Grimes was at the helm? Have you found any of Grimes' predictions for 2004 to have come true? Soba

Has there ever been a case where a restaurant reviewed in the "$25 and Under column" has appeared under the auspices of the main restaurant review? Soba

And of course, there's Chikalicious (Chika Tillman, formerly of Bid, Gramercy Tavern and Seeger's) edit: Chef Tillman co-owns her restaurant with her husband, Don Tillman. Soba

Milk in a bottle?!?! It's been a long time since I've seen that. Soba

I'm thinking you're probably thinking of the Vietnamese clay pot pork. If that's the case, the following may be of interest: Clay Pot Cuisine (Mark Bittman) (from the NYTimes DIGEST update for Wednesday, 7 April 2004. Scroll down for the appropriate link.) There is a recipe for Pork Clay Pot in the article, courtesy of Chef Charles Phan, of The Slanted Door in San Francisco. Soba

Smelts, by far. Fried, served with a squeeze of lemon and maybe some steamed rice, and a salad. Flounder, trout and porgy aren't far behind either. Flounder/porgy: steamed, with scallions, ginger and black beans. Trout: pan-fried, with maybe some broiled tomatoes and bacon. Soba

My point was that given the article's focus on Naples, it's not quite a culinary wasteland (to me). And where's smoke, as the saying goes, there's usually fire. (meaning that if there's three good restaurants, there must be more....somewhere.) We are all in a position to enable things to improve. Vote with your wallet, if not your heart. Make your opinions heard, repeat them often enough and eventually someone will hear you. Expend the effort if you really care about the issue. It takes time, but eventually you'll accomplish your goal.

Interesting that this thread popped up given the article below. Choice Tables: Naples, Florida (Sam Sifton) (from the NYTimes DIGEST update for Wednesday, 26 January 2005. Scroll down for the appropriate link.) The article discusses three restaurants: Bleu Provence, Pinchers Crab Shack and Artisans in the Dining Room, in the Ritz-Carlton Naples Hotel. If you've been there, what do you think of these? Soba

Why on earth, indeed? edit: it occurs to me that Behemoth and others may not know that particular eGullet in-joke....so click here, here, here, and here. Soba

It's also worth noting that JB was in its previous life a video store, which helps explain the cramped quarters in the rear. The next time you go, I recommend that you request to be seated against the wall and not on the side where you were seated on your previous visit. (As you walk into that area, ask to be seated to your right.) Soba

It depends. The menu changes with variable frequency. I wouldn't say day to day, but more like week to week. I haven't been to JB in a while though. The desserts aren't really part of Jewel Bako (at least historically). They're usually from Payard, which might explain tetsu's dislike of them. What, no sake? Soba

I was thinking that creamy polenta might be just the thing for this if you don't happen to have plain boiled potatoes. *sigh* *drool* *sigh* Soba

In the boeuf bourguignon thread, someone compares boeuf bourguignon to coq au vin, only with beef instead of chicken. Except that coq au vin is just as orgasmic and a universe unto itself. Coq au vin has the potential to convert lovers of (skinless boneless) chicken breasts to the joys of dark meat: chicken thighs, backs and legs. Julia's classic recipe calls for lardons, a frying chicken, cognac, white onion, a good red wine such as burgundy or a pinot noir, chicken stock, garlic, mushrooms, flour and tomato paste. Of course there are innumerable variations out there ranging from new potatoes to chardonnay to one version made with margarine and green onions. 'Tis the season of comfort food...how do you make yours? Soba

Thought I'd bump this one up again. Had a snack the other day from a beloved street corner stand near the office, and been having a craving recently due in part from the NJ hot dog run, so.... What have you had recently? Soba

Except that coq au vin (oh, oh, oh!!!!) is another universe all unto itself. Show me a pot of coq au vin and I'll show you an eGulleteer with a bib and a plate. hm, I think I'll start another thread on that one... Soba