lizziee

carpet bagger, Bistro 21 sounds like a real find and not in the normal LA radar dining scene. I notice from checking the reviews that he adds a Japanese sensibility to his cooking. I would imagine, then, that his style would be similar to Cafe Blanc. We will definitely give it a try as I am becoming more and more disillusioned with LA dining options. Would you suggest doing a tasting menu or ordering a number of dishes as splits? The three dishes most often mentioned in the reviews were the foie gras, the lobster and the duck. Are these must tries for a first time? As I said, we haven't tried Mimosa in years. Bosc was at one time the chef at Lunaria many, many years ago before he opened his own place. Their web site is at: http://www.mimosarestaurant.com/mimosa/index.html

carpet bagger, Knowing that you are a big fan of Sona, how would you compare the two restaurants? Would you consider this a fine dining restaurant or as the name suggests more of a bistro? Is it more in the realm of Mimosa which by the way, I haven't been to in years and would love an update on since de Mori left. Also, did they charge you the full $15.00 for bottles that were already opened? As always, thanks for the post.

Move to Los Angeles - it will be in the 70's.

Joseph, Glad you are no longer a lurker. Welcome and what a wonderful first post. I am an avid fan of Thomas Keller and The French Laundry. I am so glad that your first experience exceeded your expectations.

macrosan, I was also asking about getting a job, but for a front of the house person.

lxt, Wonderful post. I completely agree with you re the Japanese sticky rice dish --- I didn't like it all. I thought Patrick was the GM at JG, not the Captain.

I couldn't agree more. The excitement and enthusiasm you exhibit will translate itself to the staff. There is nothing worse than exhibiting an attitude of this is suppose to be a multi-starred experience so you better deliver. One of our most amazing experiences was being in the countryside and having a taxi drive us to a "destination restaurant." Our driver had eaten in every "important" restaurant in Burgundy. Why? Because he wanted to and saved his money to be able to do it. He was more knowledgeable about fine dining than many of the supposed gourmands. In essence, enjoy, relax, have fun and do have an aperitif!

What is the job situation like for front of the house people in a fine dining restaurant?

In the April edition of Gourmet Magazine, they mention Juniper and Paul Kitching's 45-course menu. They briefly describe one dish served on a toothbrush, "alongside a mint-flavored 'mouthwash.' " Has anyone tried it?

We have discussed the issue of mutiple reservations on e-gullet numerous times. The most recent thread is here: (admin edit note: threads have now been merged)

Marcus, Are you over your quota re alcahol?

"Do you think the French Laundry is too high or too low?" Too low.

vmilor, Welcome home. As for your ranking of restaurants in France, Spain and the States, I am in complete agreement with your assessments except for French Laundry. How would you compare the state of cuisine in Italy as compared to France and Spain?

One of the advantages of ordering an aperitif (for us this usually means a glass of champagne) is that you can leisurely read the menu with a first amuse from the chef. You are not presented with the carte de vin until you have ordered your food and so have to wait for your order to be taken, the wine list presented, the sommelier getting to your table to take your order, the bottle to be opened and tasted etc. So much nicer to be sipping champagne before all this happens.

I am not an unenthusiastic diner. When I find food exciting, I get excited and find myself beaming all evening. Our dinner at Sona last night had me beaming. David and Michelle Meyers are creating exciting and flavorful food for those hard-core "foodies" who still exist in Los Angeles. I can only say that if you haven't been to Sona and live within a 30 mile radius, this is a must restaurant. Last night at Sona, they were packed. The staff had been working since early morning since they had prepared a private lunch for major wine collectors. This did not deter David or his staff. This is an energized room with people who truly care about what they are doing and creating. Each dish was artfully presented with unexpected flavor combinations that were perfect marriages. First course - Ankemo (monkfish liver) with Skate wing and Sour Grass (sorrel) with uni emulsion - The sorrel provided just the right amount of acidity and sourness while the uni and ankemo gave it a fatty ocean lusciousness. The skate was perfectly cooked with outside crunch. Second course - In a two compartment glass plate, one side held Barely Warm Albacore Tuna with tiny Chino Farms Radishes and Warm Cucumber and Cilantro Shoots and on the other side edamame with horseradish. At first, I thought it was wasabe, but David confirmed it was fresh horseradish - a must try for any homecook. Third course - 3 small Santa Barbara Prawns with Veal Tongue, Eggplant puree, pungent spicy lime pickle on top of a Nasturtium Leaf. The lime pickle added a spicy kick to this dish and elevated it from blah to a "wake up call" for the taste buds. Fourth course - Baby Monkfish Tail with Oysters and Mussels with an emulsion of Watercress with Pearl Tapioca. There is no way to convey just how wonderful this dish was by this rather mundane description, but it was a totally satisfying, perfectly seasoned fish course. Fifth course - Moroccan Squash Soup with Foie Gras, Cardamon Creme Fraiche and Herbed Spaetzle - The marriage of the foie gras with the Moroccan squash soup was another marriage made in heaven. Sixth course - Sonoma duck breast with Fingerling Potato Gnocchi and Chicken Liver Bolognese - Again, this description in no way does this dish justice. The chicken liver bolognese was extraordinary - I could have eaten 4 huge servings of just this, but with the addition of the perfect rare slices of duck and the potato gnocchi - this dish was a tour de force. This was so good that we ended up putting a halt to the next meat course. David had planned on serving Roasted Beef, Mushrooms and Marrow with Potato Puree, Salad with Crispy Pig's Feet...sounds wonderful this morning, but last night we were getting full, yet not overstuffed and we wanted to leave room for Michelle's wonderful desserts. Also we were 6 for 6--great anywhere, truly wonderful in LA where fine dining seems to have died--Sona is becoming a landmark! Seventh course - unpasteurized Bouchon, served room temperature and runny from our favorite cheese shop in Los Angeles - The Cheese Store of Beverly Hills Eighth course - Grapefruit sorbet, campari granite with lime gelee Ninth course - Chino farms strawberries and streusel with marscapone sorbet - The flavors were clean and sparkling, the streusel warm and crunchy and the marscapone added richness. Tenth course - Caramel pudding with caramelized banana and cheri moya sorbet which added a hint of the tropics. Wonderful - my husband who never eats more than a bite of dessert finished both this dish and the strawberries and streusel with raves for both. We are thrilled to be served wonderful, specially designed menus like this one. Our wines from our cellar were: N/V Krug Champagne '96 Chablis, Butteau, Raveneau '96 Bonne Mares, Arlaud

saveur, welcome to e-gullet. My son had to do a paper on France, just after completely his stage in Paris. I am reproducing part of it here as it might answer some of your concerns and questions. Much of what he wrote is based on Patricia Wells' Food Lovers Guide to Paris. However, Bux said it best - "a love of good food and honesty of approach" works every time. For the first time visitor to France, the restaurant scene can be both confusing and overwhelming. Firstly, the tourist needs to know the differences between a cafe, a bistro, a brasserie and a restaurant. The French cafe serves as an "extension of the French living room, a place to start and end the day, to gossip and debate, a place for seeing and being seen....If you know how to nurse a beer or coffee for hours, cafe-sitting can be one of the city's best buys." (Wells, The Food Lover's Guide, pg. 135) Food is generally of the snack variety. Croque-Monsieur - a ham sandwich topped with grated cheese and then grilled and Sandwich mixte - a buttered baguette filled with gruyere cheese and ham are two of the most popular food items. For heavier snacks there are pork rillettes, pates, crudities and salade nicoise. A bistro is traditionally a small neighborhood restaurant serving home-style, substantial food. It is often a mom-and-pop restaurant with mom at the cash register and pop at the stove. The menu, either hand-written or mimeographed, is brief and except for the plat du jour changes infrequently. Wine is generally offered by the carafe, and if wine is offered by the bottle, the list is usually short. Bistro food is essentially French home cooking served "family style" in generous amounts with ingredients from the local market. The decor is generally simple - a long zinc bar, tile floors, paper or red-checkered tablecloths, and thick, white plain china. The exception to this type of bistro is the Belle Époque bistro. Here, the food retains its home-like appeal, but the decor is much fancier; Benoit is one of the most famous with its velvet banquettes, brass fixtures, lace curtains and polished zinc bar. Brasserie is French for brewery, and most of Paris's brasseries have an Alsatian connection which means beer, charcroute and Alsatian wines. This is the place to go in a large group, share drinks, stories, good times and hearty food, particularly late at night. The restaurant in Paris is for fine dining and haute cuisine. The type of cuisine runs the gamut from "cuisine classique" which features classic French cuisine in elegant surroundings (Taillevent, Le Grand Vefour, Ducasse) to "cuisine gastronomique" which features gourmet cuisine prepared by master chefs. It goes beyond classic French cuisine in its emphasis on subtle blend of ingredients and flavors, and imaginative presentations. (Pierre Gagnaire, Guy Savoy, Arpege). Once the restaurant has been chosen, the tourist, to have a good experience, must be aware of the traditions and etiquette of French dining. First and foremost, reservations are necessary. If you are unable to keep a reservation, cancel. Dejeuner or lunch is generally served between 12:30 and 2:00. In the evening, diner (dinner) is served usually after 8:00. Unlike American restaurants, there are no "turns", that is, there are no additional seatings of customers - your table is yours for the entire evening. In fact, it is rude to expect a meal to take less than 2 to 3 or even 4 hours. The French don't eat, they dine. They expect to spend an entire evening at a restaurant. The direction of the meal is much the same in most restaurants. It is only good manners to follow this order. The waiter will ask if you would like an Aperitif. This can be a glass of champagne, or the house cocktail - various liqueur mixed with white wine or champagne. At the same time, the menu and carte de vin (wine list) is presented. It is important to have an aperitif as it allows everyone the chance to leisurely read the menu and slowly set the scene for what follows. With the aperitif, a small amuse or special tidbit is presented. Do not order hard liquor such as a martini or whiskey as liquor numbs the palate. For the same reasons, Coke or coffee is never ordered. The waiter will then ask for your choices for the meal. Patricia Wells has some excellent suggestions in this regard. First, order foods that are likely to be fresh and in season. French chefs tend to be fanatics about using ingredients seasonally. Second, learn about a restaurant's specialties. It is always best to order what the chef is most proud of and for which he has gained a reputation. Third, a menu degustation or tasting menu is often available. This allows the diner to sample small portions of many different dishes. This is often a good idea on a first-time visit to a restaurant. Fourth, and though this seems silly, it is important. Do not order food that you don't like. No matter what the skill of the chef, if you don't like tripe, you won't like the dish. Fifth, remember that Entree in French means appetizer, not the main dish as it is used in the States. After you have ordered, the sommelier or wine steward will ask for your wine choices. Ask for help if you need it. Sommeliers are knowledgeable about the wines in their cellar and willingly will help you choose the best wine for the food you have ordered. Give him a rough idea of your tastes and the price you would like to pay. After ordering the wine, another amuse is often presented - a gift from the chef - another small tidbit which whets the appetite for the gastronomic experience to follow. A typical French meal might look like the following: Michel Rostang's Spring Tasting Menu Les Asperges Vertes Roties Le Foie Gras Chaud de Canard Poele au Parfum de Moka Les Brochettes de Langoustines au Romarin Les Petits Rougets Barbets "Poches, Rotis" La Canette "Mieral" Au Sang ou Le "Rot" de Pigeon "Sans Os" Les Petits Chevres et Fromages Affines Le Choix de Nos Desserts Faits Maison Les Friandises Alain Duccasse's Brillat-Savarin Menu Pate en Croute Fine Creme de petits pois Turbot de Bretagne Veau du Lait Fromages Dessert Confiseries et Friandises In both menus, there are entrees, fish courses, a meat or poultry course, cheeses, desserts and small pastries. Coffee is served after the meal. It is always black coffee and is often served as a course of its own with chocolates and petits fours. Also, a digestif or after-meal alcoholic drink such as cognac or armagnac can be ordered. There are a few other do's and don'ts that should be observed when dining in a French restaurant. Do not put ice in your wine. Wine is served to you at the appropriate temperature. Often, you will not see salt and pepper on the table. Most chefs are insulted if you re-season their food, particularly without tasting it first. It is customary to order bottled water with your meal. Most French do not drink tap water. They order mineral water plat (flat) or gazeuse (bubbly). Do not ask for a doggy bag; they don't exist in France. Although the tip is included in the bill (servis compris), usually between 12 to 15%, it advisable to leave an additional 5 to 10% in cash, particularly if the service has been exceptional. Tipping is a very sore subject with French waiters. They insist that most of tips don't go to them and particularly with the tourists who have been "warned" about servis compris, they are often short-changed. Also, waiters in France work far longer hours than American waiters. It is not unusual for a French waiter to put in a 16 hour day. Unlike in the States, the front of the house staff as well as the kitchen staff works both lunch and dinner. (My son put this in because he was working 16 hour days and he and the other waiters did sometimes feel short-changed.) Dining in France is an extraordinary experience. When Brillat-Savarin, the 18th century food philosopher declared that "Animals feed, only man can eat," he was not just referring to food. He meant that the act of dining provides us with nourishment for the soul as well as the body. The French dining experience does both brilliantly.

carpet bagger's post on Sona was in the wine forum. I didn't want it to be overlooked so I am copying it here. I'm sorry I don't have pictures but here goes with the verbal picture of my meal with the wines mentioned above. We started with spoons of salmon with creme fresh. Good not exciting. Spoons of Burrata cheese with wild arugala. Good, clean and unispiring. Spoons of Prociutto with cheese. We had N. V. Billicart Salmon Brut served at a perfect temperature and it went well with the appetizers. The amuse was exquisite veal toungue melt in your mouth, rich but not too. With tomato dill pickle, Nastrium and watermellon radish. The combinations were perfect. The radish cut the richness beautifully and the whole feel seemed to just fill my mouth wanting the dish to go on and on. The soup. Wow! Potato with boudin (sausage) emulsion, sausage pieces and veal sweetbreads. There was also a foam on top but not blended. The sausage was so tasty, adding extended flavor mellowed by the soup itself and complemented by the sweetbreads being crispy on the outside. It was incredible. The combination really worked together. Next was the Salmon confit on top was a couple of sprigs of mustard blossoms, with potato gnocchi. Served on the same plate with oxtail and jus. The salmon was absolutely melt in your mouth, perfectly moist and the combination of the mustard blossom ( fresh isn't the word) with the potato gnocchi worked to inspire your mind as well as your palate. The oxtail is often done too rich by many chefs, not David, and it was a great balance with the salmon on the same plate. The last main dish was Roasted duck breast, beautifully cooked , texture was right, not over or under cooked. There was a piece of fennel that was cooked just right bringing out sweetness that I am not used to from fennel. Yet it came from it. There was chestnut confit, scrumptious, and the beluga lentils were prepared perfectly, not dry and tastless like I have had other places. The flavor came out of the lentils. The flavors of all the parts of this dish worked incredibly well together. They also showed of the freshness of all the ingredients. I have to say David selected his dishes perfecly for the wines. He has an uncanny knowledge of the way food and wine is supposed to go together. Unfortunately we only had one desert. Actually I don't think we had room for more anyway. I would have made room though. It was chocolate beignets with caramalized bananas and banana nutmeg sorbet. The chocolate was dark but not bitter. It was very pleasant, rich but very easy on the tongue. Made a great ending which harmonized and not overtaking the whole experience of the evening. It went with the other colder ingredients. My only disappointment was that I didn't bring port to go with the chocolate. Well, I hope my descriptions have been inviting enough. I'm sorry you weren't all there to taste for yourselves.

carpet bagger, I'm blushing, but thank you. Also, I am eagerly awaiting your post on last night's meal at Sona.

I would definitely recommend Bistro Lepic. It is a small, homey restaurant with good bistro food and warm staff. We went for lunch and as we were having a major dinner, we ordered "light" for us. I didn't take any notes but I was able to reconstruct our menu from their website (http://www.bistrotlepic.net/index.htm) There were three of us and we shared in 3 courses. 1. Cream of lentil soup with duck confit Salmon Tartare with dill and oriental seaweed Country pate with prunes and armagnac 2. Onion Tart with baby green salad Chicken salad with poached egg and balsamic vinaigrette 3. Cassoulet - my only negative is that I wish the cassoulet had more sausage. Bruno Fortin, the chef, was so gracious that on our next visit, we only have to ask for more to be included. We took a peek at their new wine bar on the second floor and it looks like a wonderful place to "hang out." This restaurant would be right at home in Paris and is the epitome of a French bistro.

I didn't mean to imply that I agreed with Tom Sietsema, just that he must not have sampled some of Steve's desserts.

In today's on line chat by Tom Sietsema, he made the following comment: Northwest Washington DC: Tom, fill in the blank: D.C.'s next food trend should be _________________? Tom Sietsema: Desserts that are worth eating.

carpet bagger, In Barcelona, there is a restaurant called Espai Sucre that is dedicated entirely to desserts. Amanda Hesser's full review is here: Sucrehttp://www.nytimes.com/2002/04/17/dining/17DESS.html To give you a feel for the restaurant, this is a summary of her courses: 1. Black tea sorbet, scented with lemon and cardamom, on top of which were cardamom and lemon creams, dice of passion fruit and pineapple on top of which was poured Darjeeling tea. 2. Julienne of green apple, cubes of spiced milk, baby arugula, "flecks of peppery caramel, dabs of lemon curd and lime kefir with a single line of toffee." 3. Manchego cheese topped by a tart shell and a pineapple sorbet 4. Apricot pit cake with marscapone and coffee cream. Over this was poured sweet milk infused with lemon and cinnamon. 5. "A flourless chocolate cake lay in a pool of Lapsang souchong sauce with plump currants. They were all hidden under a blanket of yogurt. The yogurt came across as salty, the tea smoky, with the potency of something like sautéed mushrooms. But then there was a chocolate cake and a hint of coffee. Sweetness was fleeting." The idea behind the restaurant is to treat desserts as a meal with a natural progression. "Like a savory meal, Mr. Butrón's desserts have a deliberate progression. 'The first two almost aren't desserts," he said. 'They are more ideas of a dessert.' 'You start,' he added, 'with things that are light, acidic, spicy, very refreshing. For cleaning the palate. Like the soup.' Then the flavors become heavier, more tightly constructed, just as they do when you begin a meal with a frisée salad and move on to cassoulet."

We were out last night until 3:30 am, eating and drinking and had a 12:15 reservation at Cafe Atlantico. Normally, no restaurant could even begin to challenge and excite two exhausted palates. Not only did Cafe Atlantico excite, it far exceeded any and all expectations. We essentially ate the menu --- accessible yet creative food done with flair and precision. You feel the energy and the excitement in the air from everyone. It was a pleasure to meet Steve, talk with Katsuya, Jose and Jimmy and be part of this wonderful culinary ride. This was an A+ experience

Way to go Nick! I'm glad to see your talent recognized.

cyn, Be sure to check out Robert's extraordinary post re Barcelona -- he has cut and pasted past posts and it is truly a magnificent report. Like you, we have traveled on our stomachs for years and also find that age as well as the strength of the euro is making it harder every year. This years trip has been reduced drastically in time and will include more days in Spain, for us the San Sebastian area. From current reports on El Bulli - Bux and Robert - I hope that what we experienced was an aberration in 2001. In 2000, we had 2 of the most remarkable meals ever. Where are you planning on eating in Paris?