lizziee

jaybee, That's why I am asking. I haven't made it, but would love to try it out. I have this special egg cutter that I special ordered from a Japanese company. It works beautifully once you get the hang of it. Just a little while ago, I tried cutting off the top of an egg, dumped it out into an egg separator, let the white run through, and put the egg yolk back into the shell. This method worked fine. I am wondering if the recipe is true to the classic dish and will turn out as good as the "real" Arpege eggs. What do you think?

Adria's biography can be found here: http://www.spainview.com/biog8.html

Has anyone tried to make Arpege Eggs with Maple Syrup? The recipe is from Patricia Wells' new cookbook and can be found here: http://www.npr.org/programs/atc/features/2...scook.html#Eggs

Current posts on Greuze: http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?act=ST...=5935&hl=greuze

Tommy, if that is true, it is hypercritical to allow cigar bars and only target cigarette smoking. This is from the Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center "Seeing Through the Smoke: The Dangers of Cigars" "Since 1993, cigar use in the United States has increased by nearly 50 percent, according to the National Institutes of Health. This news is particularly troubling, as more and more scientific evidence links cigars with a variety of diseases, including lip, tongue, mouth, throat, esophagus, larynx, and lung cancers." "Following are some facts you should know: * Men who smoke three or more cigars a day have a 7.8-times-higher risk of getting lung cancer compared with nonsmokers. * Cigar smokers who inhale deeply have 53 times the risk of cancer of the larynx, 27 times the risk of oral cancer, and 15 times the risk of esophageal cancer. * Smoking just one to two cigars a day increases the risk of developing cancer of the larynx by more than six times that of a nonsmoker. * Smoking one to two cigars a day doubles the risk for oral cancers and esophageal cancer. * Cigar smokers have higher death rates from heart and lung disease than nonsmokers. * Cigar smokers may spend up to an hour smoking a single large cigar that can contain as much tobacco as an entire pack of cigarettes. * Cigars are a major source of secondhand smoke, which contains more than 4,000 chemicals, including 200 poisons and carcinogens." (Sources: National Institutes of Health, American Cancer Society, American Lung Association)

Boaziko, I am so glad that your experience at FL was as good as you expected. Sometimes, I think that Thomas Keller is unfairly maligned as so many people consider it to be one of the best restaurants in the U.S. and anything short of perfection engenders a lot of negativity. Added to this, the difficulty in getting reservations creates even more hostility and resentment. By the way, your English is perfect.

southern girl, I'm jealous; it sounds fantastic. What is Wolfgang's new cookbook like?

Beachfan, I have never been to Sushi Yasuda so I can't comment. Perhaps, another member could do the comparison. As for our current favorite sushi bar in LA, we revisited Takao in Brentwood and it was wonderful. The chef is Takao Izumida who used to be the head sushi chef at Matsuhisa in the private dining area. There are daily "specials" as well as 3 options for an omikase "tasting." One third the price of Ginza yet inventive, using the freshest ingredients.

In September, we ate at L'Elysees when Soliveres was still the chef. Although, his style will be modified to be more in line with Taillevent, he is definitely a gifted chef. My review can be found here: http://forums.egullet.org/ibf/index.php?ac...ST&f=10&t=12216

Nick, Who needs bidding on the most eligible bachelor, I'll take you as THE chef.

Cabrales, All I know re Briffard is that he was one of Robuchon's protégés. I have never tasted his cuisine and know virtually nothing about him. He just started one week ago and I got the menu from the concierge at the Vernet.

Southern Girl wrote an excellent review of Ginza. She eloquently and accurately described the evening and the food. I can't embellish much on her post except to echo her sentiments that this was the finest toro, the dessert was iffy, the "truffle surprise" was definitely a surprise but somewhat bland and much like a tempura of a chestnut. The crab with tomalley was absolutely perfect and yes there were too many microgreens with the blowfish although it was decorated with gold leaf. We did have a lot of wine and I do remember a dish resembling risotto done with fish to resemble grains of rice, Southern girl???? Given then that this is the finest ingredients presented in the most exclusive setting, the question becomes "Is it worth it?" Unfortunately, the value is just not there. From southern girl's and my husband's description of Jewel Bako, southern girl's experiences at Matsuhisa, my current meals at Takao, there is nothing to justify the 3 to 4 times price tag at Ginza. Ginza is like a lot of over-priced restaurants where there is a greater likelihood of disappointing than it does of pleasing totally. Would I want to go if I had never been? Probably, yes. Would I go back? No--especially not in New York where the price will now be $500. and there are so many other options. As to service, we were disappointed by Masa's lack of "personal involvement" in our meal. We have had many meals with him both at Ginza and in his less expensive days on Wilshire. On this night, Masa seemed distracted by a "writer" who was seated in our normal seats right in front of him. Normally, Masa is very involved in our meal with full descriptions of each dish, lengthy discussions about ingredients and long diatribes about other cuisines and restaurants. On this night, we never got a description of what was set before us. We had to ask what was being served. My husband loved the spirit and charm of Jewel Bako so much more than the rather pretentious, "you have to be rich to dine here," attitude that Masa seems to have adopted during the past couple of years. We have had some fun evenings with him where he was "into us" and we stayed late and had after dinner wine (ours of course) Cuban Cigars (again ours) and good conversation. My feeling is that he is very into himself these days, very sure he is going to knock New York on its behind and he is going to be very very rich as a result. I don't wish him bad luck--just a dose of reality!! As to the food. There is no quibble that the fish itself is the finest and the most extraordinary. No where have I had better toro. Southern Girl's description of the food is right on and I am in complete agreement as to the "dessert." The wines in Magnum were: 1990 Cuvee Lousie Pommery Champagne --clean , fresh, dry, but not ultra dry...full bodied and absolutely wonderful on the finish...just what champagne should be when it is a super premium champagne. 1995 Clos, Anne Gros...one of our favorite Burgundy vineyards. The wine sparkled with a lovely light raspberry nose. On the palate the Burgundy "velvet glove" was quite apparent...someone described fine burgundy as feeling like someone was rubbing your throat very gently with a velvet glove...it was perfect burgundy--Anne Gros is one of the young wine makers in Burgundy who is really showing skill and style. 1942 Madeira Reserva Velha Barbeito, Malvasia, 1942 Quinta Mae dos Homens. For more than half a century since its founding in 1946, Vinhos Barbeito has been known for the elegant Madeiras it produces from some of the islands' finest vineyards. The company is also legendary for its rare Madeiras from the 19th and early 20th century. This bottle was put in bottle in 2000 from a cask of 1942. It is rich, rich, rich...if you like old Madeira--this is a real winner...the wine is clear, deep brown in color with a full, rich nose...it is not so old as to have any wear and tear on it...there is little or no sediment...just wine that tastes young, but at the same time has the sophistication of 60 years. All in all, the evening for us was perfect because of the company, Southern girl is a pleasure to be with and I would enjoy having a hot dog as much as an exclusive dinner with her.

Alain Soliveres, the chef from L'Elysees is now at Taillevent. The new chef at L'Elysees is Mr Briffard who started one week ago. To find out who Briffard is go to http://www.saveurs.sympatico.ca/cshcf/pari...s/briffard2.htm The new menu at the 2 star L'Elysees is: LES ENTREES LE POTIRON ET L'OSEILLE SAUVAGE en soupe mousseuse, au pain d'epices LES LEGUMES RACINES DU POTAGER DE JOEL en gelee de pot au feu, petite rotie a la creme de raifort LE PIED DE COCHON TRUFFE et foie gras en tartine, marinade de champignons aux raisins LES NOIX DE SAINT-JACQUES en salade au caviar Oscietre, acidulee a la mangue et au shiso LES LANGOUSTINES ROYALES en fricassee, chorizo de Bellota, legumes croquants au citron LA TRUFFE DE RICHERENCHES LA POMME CHARLOTTE en salade de truffes, celeri cru, tomate sechee et Lomo LE POIREAUX ET LA TRUFFE en fine tarte a la ventreche, cremeux d'oignons doux au Balsamico LES POISSONS LE ROUGET DE ROCHE sous le gril, poivrade, fenouil, epeautre a la cive LA PETITE LOTTE BRETONNE au gingembre et citron vert, mariniere de coquillages aux fettucines LE SAINT-PIERRE CïTIER meuniere aux huitres et vin jaune, mousseline de celeri-truffe LE HOMARD BLEU cuit sur la braise au romarin, jus de presse, ravioli au corail, poivrade, echalotes roussies LES VIANDES LA CANNETTE DE BARBARIE AU SANG sauce au tamarin, navets, poire de cure au vine pice LE CARRE D'AGNEAU DE LOZERE rotii a l'harissa frais, brochette d'abats, fondant a l'aubergine LE LAPIN DE GARENNE DE CHASSE en ravioles, sauce civet a l'epine-vinette, champignons des bois, fine puree de coing LA NOIX DE RIS DE VEAU DE CORREZE a la truffe, doree au beurre sale, salsifis au jus gras, noix grillee LE COCHON BASQUE DES ALDUDES en cocotte aux reinettes et chataignes, jus go?teux aux oignons LES DESSERTS LA POIRE ET LE FENOUIL au bois de reglisse, crumble aux fruits secs, sorbet au gingembre confit LE MARRON GLACE moelleux "Mont-Blanc" au vieux rhum, sorbet clementine amere LE CHOCOLAT PUR CARAìBE feuillantine a la cannelle, sorbet cacao, sauce au the jasmin LE CITRON DE MENTON CONFIT en biscuit moelleux a la melisse, creme glacee au mascarpone L'ANANAS VICTORIA roti au sautoir, vinaigre de cidre, creme glacee a la vanille Bourbon

Nick, What time should I arrive for dinner? Great menu!

Below is what Fat Guy wrote on the thread Restaurant Reviewers, Complete Anonymity. "Basically it comes down to what you see as the role of a restaurant review. If it's consumer protection, fine, undercover reviewing probably makes the most sense. I've heard plenty of reviewers and editors say consumer protection/advocacy is the only purpose of a restaurant review. That strikes me as a shallow view, and one that leads to reviews nobody wants to read. With an attitude like that, how are you going to beat Zagat, where you have lots of real consumers filling out lots of little numerical survey forms? No, a restaurant reviewer is emphatically not an ordinary consumer (Why should he be? He's an expert.) and to me a restaurant review is about a host of different things and one small part of that is an attempt to be an advocate for the consumer. It's a balance. Of course totally revealing yourself is going to make you a somewhat less effective consumer advocate in the narrow sense, but in the broad sense the best consumer advocate is the one who educates the consumer with great food writing, all the inside information, the real scoop on the chef and the food and the thinking behind the whole shebang. You just don't get that in a follow-up fact-checking phone call after three anonymous meals. And I also think a reviewer has a duty to the craft; that is to say a good reviewer is trying to elevate dining by being an advocate of excellence, just as art and film critics are in part trying to push the art and film worlds to improve rather than cater to average tastes (which is always the path of least resistance). So sure, anonymity is a useful tool in a reviewer's toolkit, and in certain outrageous instances it's a really nice thing to be able to go in undercover and blow the lid off a restaurant where the owners really are cynical assholes who want to rip off every customer. But you know what? So few restaurants are actually like that, it's a shame to throw out the baby with the bathwater and limit the way you review every other restaurant in the world. The craft of restaurant reviewing is right now at an all-time low. The reviews on the whole aren't interesting to read, and Zagat and other shorthand rating systems are crushing the reviewers. The only power the reviewers have right now is their stars, not their reviews, and that shouldn't be the point. We need to change the way we think about restaurant reviews. We need to bring them up to the standards of other serious criticism or they will slowly disappear into obscurity. We need reviews that the folks here on eGullet will rush to read every week because they are forward-thinking, sophisticated, well-written, and contain the best available information. And those that aren't as enthusiastic as eGullet's users need to be infected with our enthusiasm. They need to be shown an unadulterated love of food and dining and restaurants and all the trappings. They need to be educated, cajoled, whatever it takes to get them interested in something more than stars and Zagat ratings. I don't know if anybody's up to the job but it seems obvious to me it's what we need to be doing." What is lacking in the Gagnaire review is educating the consumer about the food. It lacks what makes a restaurant review excellent: "the best consumer advocate is the one who educates the consumer with great food writing, all the inside information, the real scoop on the chef and the food and the thinking behind the whole shebang." There was little or no education in this review. --------------------

What I find so objectionable about this review is that so little emphasis is put on the food. You have no sense of what is presented on the plate. Did anyone eat the Chalosse chicken or the beef and caviar? From the lack of details, you would assume not. The only dishes that were minimally described were the patridge and wild boar as well as the amuse de bouche. Her comment,"And then we surrender to what turns out to be a once-in-a-lifetime, amazing experience of dark and sinful luxury" is never adequately detailed. You have no sense of what must be culinary excellence, given the above statement. Maybe, the reviewer should read some of eGullet members' reviews to understand how to give the reader a true sense of what to expect.

Bux, You are absolutely correct about the impact of Constant. Quoting from the same Gourmet article: Camdeborde: "You had early restaurants like L'Os a Moelle by Thierry Breton, L'Ardoise by Pierre Jay --- many of us had worked with Christian Constant at the Crillon." Of course, this also includes Camdeborde as well as Frechon who intially had a bistro La Verriere d'Eric Frechon before becoming head chef at Hotel Le Bristol. Both worked with Constant.

Bux, You are right that I didn't mention Frechon. His remark: " Last week, I served roast lamb, and several people asked me if they could have it with white beans .... at the Bristol!" he says, with a kind of wonder. Then he adds, "The fact is that the old rules about what is haute cuisine and what is not are falling apart."

Steve, I think you are thinking of the same article. There was a group picture of 10 young turks in Gourmet 2001. "Ultimately the best that could come from this movement is a "moderne bistro cuisine" that is as identifiable as traditional bistro cuisine. Why that never happened is probably a good subject for discussion." Steve, I don't understand. It seems to me, they are talking about what you were discussing about Blue Hill?

Southern Girl, It is unfair to have to read your posts when you are hungry!

There is a discussion on the Blue hill thread about the modern bistro in Paris. In the March, 2001 edition of Gourmet Magazine there is a lengthy article by Alexander Lobrano entitled "The Outsiders." He profiles the Young Turks of the Paris culinary scene; Stephane Mole (Les Ormes), Pascal Barbot (L'Astrance), Yves Camdeborde (La Regalade)", Christophe Beaufront (L'Avant-Gout), Olympe Versini (Casa Olympe), Pierre Jay (L'Ardoise), and Thierry Breton (Chez Michel). Many of the comments by the chefs describe what Steve P was referring to as bistro moderne. "Originally, I'd planned a fancy place with tablecloths and flowers," Camdeborde explains. "But then the Gulf War started, and it devastated the restaurant business. Tourism plunged, and France went into recession. " (Remember this was written in 2001, before 9/11). Camdeborde responded to this situation by opening a bistro. "For an ambitious French chef on his way up, this was a revolutionary act..... 'I decided that in France we'd forgotten that to eat well is to eat simply.'" "A small band of passionate young chefs, who couldn't care a whit about their Michelin ranking, has in many ways become the compass of modern French cooking." "What we have in common", Camdeborde says, "is that we all have haute cuisine training, but we didn't want to open faux-chateau museum restaurants. We wanted lively places where people would relax and discover interesting new food. We use many of the same suppliers as 2 and 3 star restaurants, and we dare to invent new recipes, but we are also firmly committed to tradition and to defending our terroir." Camdeborde feels certain that this new modern bistro has staying power. "It's innovative by definition, but it is also anchored to the best traditions of the French kitchen, which makes for perfect modern food..... The real luxury now is honestly cooked, high-quality food based on tradition but prepared with creative intelligence." Olympe Versini feels that Parisians want rustic, authentic food. She describes her style as "cuisine rassurante (cooking that reassures).... I put my money into the best produce I can buy and then prepare it simply.... Now I cook the food that my friends and I want to eat" instead of the showy, extravagant dishes of the past. Unlike Camdeborde and Versini, Barbot didn't want to open a bistro, but a restaurant. Still, he favors "homely products - I'd rather cook mackerel than salmon - without the cream and butter of classical French cooking, and to animate them with Asian seasonings.... (The French) have developed this idea that our culinary identity is all about transmitting unchanging recipes from one generation to the next, but now we're in a new century, and it's time to move on and to welcome the world in. Cooking is history, and I want my food to reflect the times in which we live." The article is a fairly long one and I have tried to highlight the salient points. Other than L'Astrance, I have not eaten at the other restaurants. Do you members think this accurately describes the current "Young Turk" culinary scene in Paris? Is this what you would consider "bistro moderne?"

One of the best cookbooks I've found for Xmas cookies is Rose's Christmas Cookies by Rose Levy Beranbaum. I think it is out of print, but probably can be found through hard-to-find books on the net. Three of her best are mini-cheescakes, Rugelah, and Buttercrunch Toffee.

I really didn't know where to post this - under Astrance, Blue Hill, Trio, Trotter etc. Ajay said: "(Much as I might prefer not to admit it), I think Steve P is on to something when he makes the case that one will appreciate the cuisine at BH better if one is able to situate it in context. Others have made a similar point about astrance in Paris, and I believe they are both correct--to a degree. I enjoyed astrance very much without having experiences with the breadth and depth of a bux cabrales or steve p. But, it is also probably true that I did not appreciate the uniqueness of taking in a soup flavored with rye bread, or enjoy the delicacy and intricate flavor of 'ravioli' made with avocado and stuffed with crab meat as they would have, but both dishes (the ravioli more than the soup to be sure) still spoke to me, and I was still able to enjoy my meal." I am thinking out loud, at this point. I have eaten extensively in France and have had 3 meals at El Bulli. I consider myself a knowledgeable diner. I found the much praised "soup" silly and awful tasting. The rest of my review was also disparaging. At some point, I have to eventually say to myself does this taste good? Obviously, a part of this is subjective. But given the current threads on Blue Hill, Trotter and Trio - it comes down to some simple principles - is the fish cooked correctly, do the flavors mask or enhance, are ingredients thrown together for effect not taste, is this a wow only for wow, are the key elements of fine cuisine adhered to? By the way, Steve P's review of Trotter and Trio are extraordinary - it was as if all of egullet was at the table with him. Maybe, one huge difference between France and New York and Chicago and Los Angeles, is what Robert 40 says "I don't believe the menu needs improvement it is shooting toward the norm. Which is the couple on a date looking for a nice meal before hitting the clubs, they are happy with the menu and they are the ones that made it a success. Remember the needs of the many out way the needs of the few." France and Spain seem not to have that same compulsion to aim to the norm. Maybe it is because the restaurants tend to be chef driven or less compulsive about the bottom line. One of the articles that always attracts me in Food Arts is their column Hits and Flops where chefs describe those dishes that made it with the public and those that they had a hard time giving away. Invariably, I am attracted by the flops which I guess says a lot about me. Also, Ajay, I think you are underrating yourself.

I have never eaten at Blue Hill and can't comment on that part of the topic. However, in every single case where I have left the menu up to the chef, my meal has been much more memorable in all aspects. This holds true in restaurants where I am a regular as well as those where I am a "newbie." It all comes down to the attitude of the diner. I have said this many times before, but if you approach a restaurant meal with excitement, enthusiasm, open-mindedness, willingness etc., this immediately gets translated to the staff, both front and back. I don't see this as snobbery or arrogance. I am not insisting that I get something better than the next guy. But, I think my own enthusiasm energizes everyone: a chef willing to take chances and hear feedback, a sommelier willing to suggest a little known winery, a server anxious to please and so on. This is not an affectation or an attempt to get what table A can't get, but rather my own desire to experience a memorable meal. The point is that anyone is capable of being a VIP. It doesn't take money. It really is so simple - be willing, open and enthusiastic. As an example, my first experience at French Laundry was as a single diner at lunch. I didn't even pick up the menu. I just said I was so excited to be here and I can't wait to experience Thomas's food. I got there at 12:00 and left at 5:30 when the first seating for dinner was arriving. I was a nobody. They didn't know me at all. I didn't wave any money around. I just was really excited to be there. That was it and as a result I experienced one of my most memorable meals ever.

Cabrales, Details, please!!