Malcolm, I understand your worry and I know that it is shared by many. I have heard many who are far more averse to this movement than you are. However, I have had the pleasure of spending a short time at a progressive, very forward-thinking restaurant in Chicago and hope that my perspective on the matter might lay your fears to rest. First and foremost, a genuine respect of food, the ingredients used, and the methodologies followed lies at the very core of the people executing these progressive dishes. Although many manipulations might appear throughout the meal, the diner is brought back in each dish to the purity of its components. I think all cooking can easily be taken for chemistry, depending on the cook's perspective. I think many are saying that chefs such as Adria, Blumenthal, Achatz, and Dufresne are "doing less cooking than chemistry" simply because their techniques have moved ahead with the same speed that the science behind them has - "dangerously" accelerating hundreds of years of culinary traditions and methods not just to "contribute something to the movement," but to elevate it beyond what it is. Second, many of these new food science products, such as the alginate used for the raviolis (which is just the coolest stuff to work with, btw), agar agar, etc. are completely natural. As science moves forward, so does its ability to accomplish more with nature while minimizing its manipulation of it (i.e. the alginate and agar agar, derived from seaweed). Other examples include maltodextrins (a modified sugar with varying lesser degrees of sweetness than sugar), film forming starches (used to make Listerine breath strips), new porcine gelatins (which stabilize foams, add body to salad dressings), transglutaminase (meat glue!), and lots of new stuff that I haven't even heard of yet. What a rant! Thanks for the link, Bourdain! I look forward to seeing that aired.