Daniel Rogov

The most vulgar (but necessary) question....... How much do you want to spend? And less vulgar, do you know if they have any specific wine preferences?

Gnocchi have several things in common with potato latkes and nothing is more crucial to the success of either than, after the potatoes have been grated, crushed, mashed or otherwise mauled, placing them on a clean tea-towel (dish towel), wrapping the towel around them firmly and then squeezing the liquids out of them. The more liquid you get out the less flour you will need for binding and the better your gnocchi.

Not so much a question of history and/or archeology but one of culture. Hedgehogs are still valued fare among many on the Greek mainland as well as among the Bedouins of North Africa, Jordan, Syria and Israel. And small songbirds remain exceedingly popular country fare throughout parts of Greece, Turkey and Corsica. And don't knock prairie dogs either. Delicious fare when grilled.

Kicking in from the point of view of the consumer. Intelligent diners are aware that such problems do arise and will rarely be offended if approached (as several have suggested) with an honest appraisal of the situation by either the chef or the waitstaff, have this explained to them and are then offered some minor form of compensation - coffee and cookies at breakfast, a glass of wine at dinner, whatever. I cannot help but think that indeed in such cases honesty is the best policy and that most clients will respond positively to that.

I agree, of course, that an over-abundance of pretense is one of the truest signs of the snob. On the other hand, let us seriously consider that exaggerating in one's attack against pretensions and the supposed return to basics may also be a sign of: (a) boorishness, (b) anti-intellectuality or © both a and b. The desire for quality is not pretentious The discriminate use of language is a sign of intelligence Don't get me wrong - I'm all for Two Buck Chuck. It is, after all, an entry to the world of wine. Some will stay at that entry level and that's fine. Many more, however, will move on from that entry level to wines of greater interest and quality.

Please read responses in that topic, too, especially what Divina contributed this morning (Post #55) ← There is a highly technical term for publications of this nature - they are known as "pure and unadulterated bullshit" There is no way on God's green earth that a review that is paid for is going to be objective. That the "author" says that the guide reviews only restaurants "that I like" is mere and meaningless verbage! Such publications (print or internet) exist primarily as a source of advertising and should never, never, never be taken the least bit seriously. Now if the above is not an absolutely furious rant - nothing is!

My heart goes out to you Divina, but in perverse ways. Reviews and guides based on payment from restaurants lack any kind of legitimacy whatsoever.

Carrot Top, Hi…. You raise many, many points here. Let me try to respond, in my own curmudgeon-like way to some of those and those in "categories" Most Restaurants Stink Agreed, and that because the foods they serve are what most people want. What we are talking about here is not so much a question of absolute quality but of expectations, and when Ms. And Mr. X walk into any restaurant or eatery, they will be satisfied so long as their expectations are met. Let's say that you and I are walking down the street and for one reason or another choose to enter a branch of McDonalds. No matter what we receive in the way of food we have no right at all to complain, because both of us know exactly what to expect at these branches, that is precisely what we receive, and the choice to enter was ours and ours alone. The food, the service and the price are entirely in line with our expectations. No one's fault but our own whether we love it or hate it. That McDonald's is the world's second largest provider of food (next alone to the United States Armed Forces) is no one's fault except those who patronize McDonald's. Taking a look at mass-market chain restaurants (even I try such places at times when visiting the USA) – depends on the integrity of the chain. I recall dining in Atlanta, Savannah, Los Angele and Seattle at branches of various steak and beer joints – several of which served up truly excellent steaks (primarily T-bone or Porterhouse in my case), really excellent local beers on tap and offered fine, casual service. I also recall several that served up steaks that would have best been ground into sausage meat and beer that had off aromas and flavors. I do remember checking afterwards and finding that the good were no less profitable or popular than the bad. A conundrum….. The positive sign, both in the USA, Europe and even tiny little Israel and Lebanon is that many truly fine chefs are shifting to restaurant formats that, while less formal and less "fussy" than their earlier restaurants are serving up fine, more casual food in settings that while highly designed are less pretentious, far less expensive. Instead of being readily available only to those in the top x percent of earners, these are open to a broader audience, and, although great fun are doing marvelously with their dishes. General Impact of the Critics The item above, relating to status, formality, expense is a direct response to two factors – economic conditions (people who are tired of being "taken advantage of" and of those critics (present company included) who have been pushing for such a return now for five years. And that true in the USA as well as throughout Europe. It is not that there is no longer a place for the super-prestigious places of the world (e.g. Alain Ducasse's Louix XV in Monte Carlo or Guy Savoy in Paris) but that there is in parallel a place for places such as Ducaee's Spoon or Savoy's Bistro. Your self-declared "rant" is valid when it comes to small towns. It is not as valid when it comes to the "big cities". The critics who write for many small town newspapers have very little impact indeed – that partly because those newspapers cannot afford professional/full-time critics and partly because such newspapers are overly dependent on and thus cater to local businesses. (As I said earlier – a form of whoredom) National newspapers and major newspapers on the other hand rely more on critics who earn their keep from that profession. Such newspapers can also afford to set aside the need to become whores. As to the "gray areas" to which you refer – the newspapers for which I have written since I was knee-high to the proverbial grasshopper have had no gray areas. I can tell you with full confidence that if I were to receive a phone call from someone in the advertising section of any of the papers for which I now write even suggesting that I review restaurant x, y or z, within ten minutes that person would be given a warm handshake goodbye as they were fired. The same is true of wineries. I recall once the editor of the newspaper with which I am most closely associated receiving a phone call from the CEO of a major winery informing him in no uncertain terms that "if Daniel Rogov continues to be the wine critic of your paper, we will withdraw all of our advertising". My editor's response was quite simple, informing the executive in question that "it is your privilege to advertise or not advertise wherever you see fit". …. And then thanking him for his call and closing the line. Specific Impact of Critics Simple – there are those successful restaurants that simply don't give a good flying foot (how's that for avoiding obscenity) for what the critics write. They're making money hand over fist and why should they care? After all, the people who read restaurant reviews in newspapers don't go to those restaurants in the first place. And then there are those honest restaurateurs who will evalue the critics much as the critics evalue them. Those critics who have earned credibility are listened to, often with great care. Those who have not earned credibility are ignored. Seems fair enough to me. And then there are the reactions of those restaurateurs who choose to hate the critics. One day I will tell you the stories of (a) how I was chased down Tel Aviv's Yirmiahu Street in broad daylight by a restaurant owner with a U.S. Marine Corps 45 caliber pistol I his hand as he threatened in some weird combination of Hebrew, Arabic, French and English on precisely why he was going to kill me and (b) about the restaurateur in Eilat who put out a contract, not to kill me, but to break both of my arms and legs. Me…what the heck….I continue to love my profession. Do keep in mind please that restaurateurs/chefs and critics need not be "enemies". In fact, to a great extent, we are colleagues, for we have precisely the same clientele. That is to say, those who eat at their restaurants are those who read us. Of course we have different roles to fill – the restaurant has something to sell; the critic has to decide what is worth buying. Also to keep in mind. It is not the critic's goal to "change" a restaurant. It is his/her role to inform, to report on the existing status. If changes do occur as the result of a critique that is to the joint credit of the restaurant and the critic.

Perhaps a bit off-topic but to some extent we are talking here about the difference between honest criticism and whoredom. Newspapers, national or local, that allow their critics/critiques to be influenced by advertising policy are cheating their readers and critics who tolerate that are little more than whores. In honest journalism there is full separation between editorial and advertising. And that, by heaven, is how it should be. And that's a short but strong rant on my part.

Melissa, Hi..... In full seriousness, the restaurant critic that does not enter a restaurant with at least the hope that what is to follow may be rewarding should find another profession. Going in with an advanced bias about the humor or "style" of the place is one issue. One cannot, however, pre-judge the food. Something akin I suppose to the right to be thought "innocent until proven guilty". Oh yes....for those not fully informed of the Hebrew language (some 99.97% of the population of the world), "hishtagata?" loosely translated means "have you lost your marbles?"

To respond to a few of the points and questions raised so far: Hooters will not be kosher. Considering that they will be serving calamari and shrimps that might be a wee bit difficult to arrange. No fear on that level though as some 78% of all restaurants in Israel are not-kosher One might think that the Chief Rabbinate is a kind of ultimate authority but that is merely an illusion for many of the ultra-Orthodox ignore that body as being heartily anti-religious and turn instead to this or that specific rabbi. The bottle of orange juice that may be "kosher" for some ain't gonna be kosher enough for others. (One of the reasons I so often refer to Israel as Disney-Land Middle-East. When Hooters does open I will go there with a full sense of humor and an even fuller sense of hope. Heck, even I like the chips (French fries) at McDonald's. Who is to say that the chicken wings here won't be godlike, that the fried calamari will be orgasmic, and, if the truth be told that most of the waitresses are nothing more than very nice young women earning their keep while doing their undergraduate studies? The review will appear in its usual place - "Galleria" of HaAretz newspaper. I promise to post a link the moment it appears after the place opens in October. Truth is, I'm actually curious.

Even worse.....at a cafe being served a small piece of chocolate with your espresso, taking a bite and seeing those little white worms crawling around.

I know that I'm sometimes the fly in the olive oil but let me ask what is the "big deal" about a burger that weighs one-third of a pound (or, if one prefers 151.3 grams). You guys should visit Israel - at Doris in Rosh Pina the standard burger is 350 grams and is made from fine Charolais beef and, if you like, will be topped with fine buffalo Mozarella or ripe Camembert; at Dixie in Tel Aviv the 330 gram burger is smothered in fried onions and za'atar; etc........ Let me know before you arrive. We'll make the outings together.

It is now fully official – certified stamps of approval, all governmental bureaucracy seemingly satisfied, contracts registered: Hooters is going to open its first Israeli branch (at Ramat Poleg, near Netanya) in October, 2007. All of which is fair enough, I suppose. America, Switzerland, Greece, Germany, Australia China and even Korea have them. Why should we Israelis be left out in the cold?. After all, we have all sorts of things. We have Nile Fever, we have McDonalds, and we even have a few poisonous snakes, so why not Hooters? And who knows, it may even be fun. Vulgar fun perhaps, family fun perhaps, but fun nevertheless… well, perhaps. I In all seriousness - come October I shall don my critic's cap and visit.

Apologies in that I forget the source of the quote but I agree with its sentiment entirely: "When you invite guests into your home you assume the responsibility for their happiness during the time they are visiting." Whether you've invited or been "stuck with" a guest should have no bearing on it. It is a host's obligation to be as certain as possible that the person will find pleasure with you. Indeed, there is always a secondary dish or set of dishes that can be prepared for even the fussiest of eaters

(a) Largely because of a host of treaties between EU nations and EU nations and the Americas, the Middle- and Far-East, only wine made in the region of Champagne is entitled to use that name. I personally am all for that and in favor of all other wines being called "sparkling wine". (b) Many wineries outside of the area of Champagne have agreed as well to no longer use the words "method Champenoise" on the bottles but to substitute that with "the traditional method". © In general, the same can be said about Port, Madeira, and other wines that carry the name of a specific place. It is equally true of certain kinds of food products. With cheeses for example, Parmesan, Emmenthal, Gruyere, Camembert...

Ah, but blind tastings have been made and in many cases the tasters (generally wine and/or restaurant critics) have successfully identified the differences between various mineral and city waters. In such a tasting that I took part in in Israel several years ago, all but one identified Jerusalem tap water (pretty poor); nearly all recognized that the water of Mei Eden was precisely the same as that offered up in the taps of the city of Katzrin (correctlly as both waters come from precisely the same spring); and most easily differentiated between the city waters of Tel Aviv and Haifa. When it came to sparkling mineral waters, most could tell which were naturally sparkling, which had CO2 added, which were Italian or French sourced. No one was more surprised by the accuracy of the tasting than I.

Fantastic! My compliments.

Doc..... Part of my point was that Europeans and others that I mentioned drink mineral water only if it tastes better or is demonstrably better for health purposes. They do not buy mineral water or the bottles in which the water comes as status symbols. The same is true of olive oil and balsamic vinegar, sometimes precisely the same product appearing in a "normal" and a "designer" bottle. I think it important to realize that those designer bottles cost a heckuva lot more than the more standard glass bottles (or in the case of water, plastic bottles). Who was it that first coined the phrase about "conspicuous consumption"? Not to misunderstand - Europeans and others also have their modes of conspicuous consumption. A trait not to be admired no matter from where the consumer comes. As to the comparison to art - there I would agree with you but only on the level of "looking and not buying". Here in Tel Aviv the water tastes (and often is) dirty. Not health threatening in most cases but certainly not appealing. In our little home (remember that its hot here 8 months of the year) we consume an average of 12 liters of mineral water weekly. What on god's green earth would I do with all of those designer bottles after they had been emptied?

I'm not sure precisely where "cultural disequilbrium" comes in here (the kind of culture shock that sets us standing with our mouths at least half-open) but the vast majority of Europeans and throughout the states of North Africa and the Middle-East, people tend to buy their mineral in the simplest plastic bottles, sometimes of one liter, sometimes of 1.5 liters or, for carrying in their purses 1/2 liter. Labels may appeal or not but it is price that carries the day. For most the issue of "status" has nothing whatever to do with it. And to add to the cultural disequilibrium, in places where the tap water is both drinkable and tasty (e.g. Vienna), people choose to drink tap water. Me scratcheth my head.

The small world phenomenon at work. Yesterday at lunch one of the wines my host served was one of the Scholium stable. My tasting note follows. Scholium Project, Trimalchionis Farina Vineyard, 2005: Made entirely from Sauvignon Blanc grapes, 50% of which were impacted upon by botrytis. Despite that, a crisply dry, full-bodied wine, starting off quietly with lightly funky earthy minerals and then opening to show appealingly bitter citrus and citrus peel. Mouth-filling and in a way "potent" with its flavors. One to love or to hate. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 87. (Tasted but not blind 22 Aug 2007)

A noble project in learning. From tasting four of these wines, a failure in winemaking.

Not at homes but at restaurants the concept developed during the heyday of the yuppies and was known as "grazing". My own best experience was one night (from 6 p.m. - 6 a.m. by sampling a single course at each of 12 different restaurants in Miami. Can be great fun but there is no need for either drunkenness or over-eating at such events.

Wonderful story! The waitress, no matter what else she does in life, will find her place in paradise. As to the customer - as far as I can see, he can go straight to hell!

Try this one.... Chicken Livers with Herbed Butter 1 kilo chicken livers, trimmed and washed 2 Tbsp. olive oil salt and pepper to taste 3/4 cup butter 3 cloves garlic, minced 4 shallots or the white parts of 8 spring onions, chopped finely 4 Tbsp. each thyme and parsley, both chopped 2 Tbsp. Dijon style mustard 4 Tbsp. chives, snipped 2 Tbsp. lemon juice pinch of cayenne pepper snipped chives, for garnish In a mixing bowl toss the chicken livers together with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Melt the butter and stir in all of the remaining ingredients except the chives, seasoning to taste with salt and pepper. Skewer the chicken livers on bamboo or metal skewers and place them on an oiled grill above hot charcoals. Cook for about 2 minutes on each side, basting well with the herbed butter. Pour the remaining butter over the chicken livers to serve and garnish with the chives.