johnnyd

Rabelais Books on Middle Street

Depends on what you are after. I would go for local seafood personally, but that's me. The following places focus on local seafood, meats and produce. Evangeline is a highly regarded French bistro on Longfellow square. Fore Street Restaurant is a favorite of mine. The open kitchen is bustling and the service is 1st rate. 555 on Congress Street has impressed many as perhaps Portland's best. Local 188 is a bit more casual and has a diverse menu (see link). I was chatting with chef/owner Jay this morning and he was braising something delicious in the back. Hugos is not just a meal it's an experience. Portland is indeed becoming a destination for people who take their eating seriously. To help sort it all out, an enterprising software developer has arranged everything nicely using google technology, including a complete inventory of critic's reviews. Go to Portland Food Map .com and click the map on the right. Bon Apetit

You know, I've had bacon-infused bourbon, but the thought of cynar and sherry in there gets me thinking like how I insulted a perfectly good shot of cachaca last sumer - as seen above

Damn you all! I miss Portugal and it's food very much. Don't forget to report back, if even for a moment, to tell us how it all was. Boa Viagem!

You guys are wussies. I submit the highly unrecommendable Clamparinha While making littleneck clam ceviche and caipirinhas one summer weekend a light bulb of dubious wattage winked on, and here you have it. It wasn't half bad until I made another with a much less chilled clam meat. Never again.

Great stuff, Steven! Lobster prices are relatively low right now here in Maine so I've had the great fortune to include them in the food budget often. These guys are inspiring me to take Bugs to a higher level.

The Associated Press reported today that Maple Syrup annual production in the USA jumped 22% overall with a few high-producing states getting record-high numbers. National Agricultural Statistics Service Report

Not to be outdone, a challenge mounted recently to raise funds for childrens' swimming lessons resulted in a 61' 9" lobster roll - a pending Guinness Book record - here on Portland's waterfront yesterday. click here for Portland Press Herald story/photo/video

Willard Scoops - a new ice cream shoppe in Willard Square has been open a couple weeks now. This from The South Portlander: Word in the neighborhood is that this is some serious stuff. I live nearby and can't get excited about Beal's or Red's anymore, so this news is welcome as summer slowly unfolds.

according to the map in the article, why is the cave so far away from the bar? Hey, I'm a novice but it seems weird

Agreed. That "test" sounds outrageous and a market-killer. Why should a sovereign nation not patrol it's waters for safety's sake, for both military and commercial reasons? It sounds like they are putting the responsibility - health and financial - on the diver's shoulders instead.

That's a damn fine tour - and great timing: Hugo's is booked solid according to this article in today's local paper. The article also lists some new restaurants opening soon:

Here in the Gulf of Maine one needs to purchase either a commercial or recreational license to harvest scallops "by hand" - which means the use of SCUBA systems and manual labor - versus "by drag" which deploy an underwater device to collect the animal in large quantities. There are no tests beyond a thoughtful sniff at the dock but shellfish harvesting areas are constantly monitored for toxic bacteria and/or pollutants owing to excessive run-off after rainy periods, or potentially dangerous industrial mishaps. Daily reports are broadcast on marine-band radio and posted on State DMR websites. Also, because the State government has determined that owing to higher perishability rates, whole scallops are not permitted to be landed save for the abductor muscle - the most common part used on the market and also, for some reason, the part of the scallop with a comfortably long shelf-life. So harvesters - by any means - must process (shuck) their harvest before reaching port or risk the seizure of all harvesting assets (like your boat). As a result, no scallop roe survives to make it to restaurant kitchens and instead is thrown with the shells over the side where a cloud of sea gulls await. Vessels tie up with gallon freezer bags full of scallop meats destined for market. Personally, I hold a recreational license to harvest scallops "by hand" (US$50) which permits me to gather enough scallops to yield two quarts of scallop meats per day - enough for a good party.

Maine's island community broadsheet of record is The Working Waterfront, published by The Island Institute a membership-based community development organization based in Rockland. This month, editor Philip Conkling - who also sits on the Task Force on the Economic Sustainability of Maine's Lobster Industry - weighed in on the current state of Maine's lobster fishery in this month's issue: The task force contracted with a food industry consulting company - The Moseley Group - to collect information on the structure and function of Maine's lobster industry. Their report is due on the Governor's desk later this month. Meanwhile, I bought two lobsters of undetermined poundage from two guys in a pick-up for $6 each this weekend. "They're all within legal size, we just didn't bother to weigh 'em." Mine had huge claws and I'm cool with that.

The Gulf of Maine is a major source of green sea urchin. The Wall Street Journal Magazine sent a reporter there to find out how urchins get to the table and filed this report. Rob is an old friend and Captain of F/V The Maine Lady III, the boat I dove for urchins from in the late '90s. A 3rd generation fisherman, he is very active in the State capitol on behalf of fishermen on the Maine coast. WSJ Article and VIDEO - click here. The video takes you out on a typical urchin-dive on a snowy day in March. Having done it a zillion times, I say they got it totally right. Check it out.

Deathmatch Ringmaster Joe Ricchio describes the lead-up to The Last Meal in his excellent blog Portland Food Coma

By popular demand, the chef photos from the Last Meal booklet, specially made for the recent Deathmatch, are posted below, pretty much in order of their appearance. Affiliations with Portland eateries, food purveyors or otherwise are noted. The two Hosts with the Most are pictured up-thread. Then we have, Samantha Hoyt Lindgren Sam and her husband Don run Rabelais Books, an internationally-recognized purveyor of books about all things culinary, on Middle St. in Portland. Stephen & Merry Benenson Stephen & Merry run One Longfellow's Square, Portland's au-courant Arts & Music venue. Leslie Oster Leslie is the whirlwind behind Aurora Provisions busy catering department, among other hats worn at this highly-regarded Portland West End food-landmark. Erik & Krista Desjarlais Erik Desjarlais, chef-owner of Evangeline, his well-received eatery in Portland. Erik's take on daring bistro fare earned Evangeline Portland's only 5-star distinction. Krista (Kern), Erik's recent bride, runs Bresca, a unique and oft-recommended Portland dining experience. Between these two, much ink - and many pixels - have been cast by those lucky to sit at their tables, accounting for much of why Portland commands it's station in the American Food Arena. Jason Jason holds down the BOH at Novare Res Bier Cafe deep in the bowels of Portland's Old Port Nolan Nolan works the historic floors of Downeast Beverage on Commercial Street, the waterfront drag in the Old Port. Joel Joel manages Portland's premier bakery, Standard Baking Company johnnyd Johnnyd plays guitar and shucks a mean oyster. Nat Nat is part of the 10-person staff of R.P. Imports, importers and brokers of boutique wines from around the world. Kate Squibb & Josh Potocki Josh and his wife Parker own and operate 158 Pickett St. Cafe near Willard Beach in South Portland. Kate is their chef extraordinaire, First Mate and keeper of the keys to the brig. Pieper Pieper helps cook up a storm at 555 a famous eatery on Congress St. and sometimes helps out Brian with his inventive new menu at Brian Boru on Center Street Meg Swoboda Meg is the tour de force behind Sweet Marguerites artisanal chocolate makers of South Portland. I swear she's trading that kid's soul for a brick of bittersweet. Not pictured, at least in this post, is the amazing Brad who currently works at 555 but plans to explore farming in Bowdoinham, Maine, this summer. He was photographed in an amusing, but compromising position - sitting on a toilet - so I thought it best for everybody that we leave that one out. It is without doubt that Deathmatch cannot occur without the help and hard work of many people, only some mentioned here, who are compensated only by eating some of the best damned food prepared in New England, and knowing they are having more fun than a person should be allowed to have. We'll be back in the not-too-distant future when our hangovers finally abate, our bank accounts stabilize a bit, and when new challenges vie for a call to arms. All photos in this post - except Nat, Erik & Krista - are courtesy of Mr. Zack Bowen - thanks, man!

*bump* It's been a couple years since things got started at Ocean Approved but it seems my pal Toleff is getting good at this. From today's Boston Globe - magazine, Here's a couple pics from a day out collecting kelp last year, Here's a Recipe: Mussels & Linguini with Kelp Noodles I chatted with Bernie at Ocean Approved this morning and he tells me four more Boston-area Whole Foods markets now carry their Kelp noodles - Wellesley, Woburn, Charles River Plaza, and Andover - in case anyone here in New England wants to add them to this summer's repasts. In Portland, Maine, these area purveyors are listed in today's Boston Globe article by Chris Ladd, It appears plans are afoot to supply Ocean Approved Kelp products nation-wide. Kelp harvesting is a sustainable, locally-supported food product.

What baby in WHICH pot? I didn't see no baby in a pot... Would love to see all the pix, if you have permission to post them. And thanks for sharing this with us! ← That's a great idea - some fun portraits still in the book. I'll see about digital versions.

Canto XVII Classic Pound Cake - Samantha Served with strawberries and cream? Are you kidding me?! Just bury me surrounded by Sam's perfect pound cake, squeeze enough whipped cream to fill the coffin, and plop a strawberry in my cold, dead mouth - I'm outta here. Canto XVIII Cherubs & Diablos - Meg Oh my god! Oh my god!! Oh my god!!! Meg's cherubs were little clouds nestled in a handmade (milk?) chocolate cup. The Diablos were made of head-spinning dark chocolate with what I think was a candied jalepeno piece on top, but the whole package had a piquant kick that would conjure Satan himself. I liked them both, but if I had to choose, I would join the rest of the Deathmatch crew at Satan's side... Thank you for visiting the Deathmatch, April 19th 2009, in Portland Maine A crypt of thanks go to Photographers Zack Bowen and Katie Selva, without whom eGullet coverage of Deathmatch events would not be possible. See you next time!

The Deathmatch Wine List The Wine: (92 bottles) 12 x Broadbent, Vinho Verde N/V Bellenda, Brut Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene “San Fermo”, 1.5l Bellavista, Brut Franciacorta Cuvée, 1.5l Perrier-Jouët, Brut Champagne Cuvée Belle Epoque “Fleur de Champagne” 1990, 3.0l (Jeroboam) 6 x Lustau, Amontillado Jerez Puerto de Santa Maria “Almacenista Jose Luis Gonzalez Obregon” N/V Georg Breuer, Riesling QbA Rheingau Rüdesheim Berg Schlossberg 2004, 3.0l (1 of 30 Produced) Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling Spätlese Trocken Pfalz Forster Kirchenstück 1997, 1.5l St. Michael-Eppan, Sauvignon Alto Adige “Sanct Valentin” 2004 6 x Bodegas Aragonesas, Campo de Borja “Coto de Hayas” Rosado 2007 Estancia, Meritage Alexander Valley 1989, 1.5l Tramonti, Chianti Classico 2004, 3.0l Nicolis, Veronese IGT “Testal” 2001, 1.5l Poggio Amorelli, Toscana IGT “Oracolo” 2003, 3.0l Domaine Henri Perrot-Minot, Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes 1999, 1.5l Domaine Jean Chauvenet, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru Rue de Chaux 2001, 1.5l Louis Bernard, Châteauneuf-du-Pape 1999, 1.5l Domaine de Vieux Télégraphe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape “La Crau” 1997, 1.5l Château Lamartine, Cahors Cuvée Particulière 2004 Bodegas Alejandro Fernandez Tinto Pesquera, Ribera del Duero “Janus” Gran Reserva 1995 Château Musar, Bekaa Valley 1999 Hanzell, Pinot Noir Sonoma Valley 1990, 1.5l (Signed by Bob Sessions) Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo “Grande Annata” Riserva 1988 William Hill Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 1990, 5.0l (Imperial) Librandi, Val di Neto IGT “Gravello” 2003 Tenuta Il Poggione, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1997 Ridge, “Geyserville” Sonoma County 1999, 1.5l Fauchon, Sauternes “Réserve” 1995, 375ml Foreau, Vouvray Moelleux Domaine du Clos Naudin 1995 Wegeler-Deinhard, Riesling Spätlese Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 1990 Friedrich-Wilhelm-Gymnasium, Riesling Beerenauslese Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Trittenheimer Apotheke 1989 Fonseca, Reserve Porto “Terra Bella” N/V Château de Montpezat, Coteaux du Languedoc “Palombières” 2003 Condado de Haza, Ribera del Duero 2001 Mt. Difficulty, Pinot Noir Central Otago 2004, 1.5l Etude, Pinot Noir Carneros 2004 2 x John Duval Wines, Shiraz Barossa Valley “Entity” 2005 Niebaum-Coppola, Zinfandel Napa Valley “Edizione Pennino” 1999 (Signed by Francis Ford Coppola) Masciarelli, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo “Villa Gemma” Riserva 2000 Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo Cannubi 2004 Jean-Luc Colombo, Cornas Les Ruchets 1998 Bollinger, Brut Champagne “La Grande Année” 1999 The Beer G. Schneider & Sohn, “Wiesen Edel-Weisse” Hefeweizen, Kelheim, Germany, 20l (1/6 Barrel) St. Bernardus, “Abt 12” Quadrupel, Watou, Belgium, 20l (1/6 Barrel) Harviestoun, “Ola Dubh Special Reserve 12” Old Ale, Clackmannanshire, Scotland, 30l (Cask) Castle Eggenberg, “Samichlaus Bier” Doppelbock, Eggenberg, Austria, 3.0l 24 x Geary’s, “Wee Heavy” Scottish Ale, Portland, Maine, 12 oz. bottles 24 x Geary’s, Imperial IPA, Portland, Maine, 12 oz. bottles 12 x Anheuser-Busch, “Bud Light Lime” Beer, 12 oz. bottles (F’n Spider) 6 x Falstaff Brewing Company, “Ballantine XXX” Ale, 16 oz. cans (F’n Gerry) Lots x Pabst Brewing Company, “Pabst Blue Ribbon” Beer, 12 oz. bottles, 12 & 16 oz. cans Master Myers (polishing his scythe) The Hooch Lillet, Apéritif Blanc, France Cointreau, Triple Sec Liqueur, France Cock-Russell & Co., “Boodles British Gin” London Dry Gin, England Lucid, Absinthe “Supérieure”, France Leblon, Cachaça, Brasil Herredura, Tequila “Silver”, Mexico Don Julio, Tequila “Reserva de Don Julio” Blanco, Mexico

Canto XIV Foie Gras Mousse Bacon Crumble - Nat Foie is an essential part of a decidedly unhealthy final meal so it was certain to appear tonight. And when it did, it disappeared so fast that no one snapped a picture (that I know of yet). Suffice to say that Nat made an outstanding dish that was surprising for its light touch on a rich ingredient. Bits of bacon punctuated the airy mousse with specks of salty goodness. Great gateway to the dessert portion of the evening. Canto XV zb Croquembouche - Krista zb I like the deployment of a traffic cone when I cook too. zb zb And what's wrong with getting delicious caramel thread on everything? Including, probably Krista. Most decadent nibbles, these. Canto XVI zb Ginger Puddings with Bittersweet Chocolate Sauce - Ginger Caramel Crumble - Jodi zb When you bit into this, not only is the amazing praline effect knocking your socks off, but somewhere inside is a mysterious gingery pool surrounded by some of the best chocolate (so far) of the evening. zb

Canto XII zb Shortrib Pot Pie - Stephen & Merry zb Absolutely stunning little pillow of pleasure here. Flaky crust holding a scoop of perfectly braised short rib - a huge crowd-pleaser. ...but disaster looms near! Somewhere around the middle of the evening, the usual fine-tuned hum of the kitchen was snagged by a plumbing snafu, Naturally, several able people stepped in to remedy the situation zb Alas, without proper tools, we settled on running buckets off the upstairs bath and the feast resumed. Canto XIII zb Sweet & Sour Balsamic-Braised Short Ribs, Salt & Vinegar Fries - Jason zb I was getting pretty full, but I helped dab Jason's paprika mayo on a dozen of his plates so I really couldn't resist. This was probably the closest thing to what everybody really wanted for their last meal: a big pile of good french fries!

Canto XI If you know you've got one meal left on the planet, wouldn't it be bacon? I don't know about you but I've had near nirvana-like moments with a Bacon Lettuce Tomato sandwich as my only companion. So the Pickett Street posse won me over with their selection for Last Meal, Deconstructed BLT - Hot Mayonnaise In Your Mouth - Josh & Kate What made this Canto different from the others was it's delivery system... Before serving the course, the BLT Waitresses do a dry run, A not-so-dry result, but I'll wager that was the idea. Amazingly, it was a hit with the crowd... As you can imagine things got, um, out of hand. But this is a family website so we'll move on now, shall we? There are seven cantos still to go! note: all photos in this post by Zack Bowen

Canto VII zb Harissa Spiked Scallop with Pickled Fennel - Asian Spice-Braised Belly Pork - Cold Smoked Baby Octopus - Brad Holy Hannah, was this good. Brad from 555 kicked out this little number and blew us away. Wonderful play on flavors Canto VIII zb Tagliatelle with Broadturn Farm Butter, Sea Salt and White Truffle - Leslie mb This went so fast I never got a taste - obviously stupendous, as was the... Fondutta di Tartufo e Fontine with Crostini - Leslie zb ...which I did get fistfuls of. As Last Meals go, who wouldn't go for a plate of fresh pasta and piles of molten cheese? Really good cheese? ...with truffles!? Canto IX zb Maple-Candied Pulled Pork and a Popover - Nolan Sublime. Not only was the sauce mapley, but check out those maple-sticks! Canto X Feijoada Finale with Caipirinhas - Johnnyd/Myers This simple family dish from Brazil was my choice because it reminded me of hot Saturdays in Brasil when I was a young teen. Tons of people, food and music. It took two days to get this ready. Black bean stew with several pounds each of eye-round beef, fresh chorizo and smoked ham hocks, served over white rice, collard and leek sauteed in bacon fat with a drizzle of white balsamic vinegar, topped with a Naval orange segment. Sauce options were malagueta w/lime & garlic, or malagueta w/EVOO & whiskey. Can't seem to find a picture of it! I almost dumped the whole pot in the trash while those incredible courses rolled out of the kitchen before me, but many people came by and complemented the dish on it's simplicity and authenticity. I'm now convinced. So much so that if anyone is interested I have several quarts of leftover feijoada in the freezer - $50 each! Hey, I'm here all week! Mr. John Myers made about a gallon of terrific caipirinhas that employed some cane-sugar stuff from Martinique. While I was serving fiejoada I heard some glass breaking outside so they were clearly a hit out by the terrace bar.