Saborosa

Barcelona calling: The origins of ratafia are certainly contested - although of course it is, beyond doubt, a Catalan drink (it has a Denominacion Geografica label from the Ministry of Agriculture) and a Gironan one, but which Garrotxan town exactly is it from... Besalu? Olot?... It started as a medicinal draught (and it still tastes like it), and its chief components are "Camomila, hierbaluisa, la piel de un limón, nuez moscada y nueces verdes" "chamomile, lemon verbena, lemon peel, nutmeg and green walnuts" which are steeped in booze for "40 days and 40 nights" in a glass jug or jar. Then it's filtered and matured for a coupleof months more, usually in wood. Then water and sugar is added to get the right proof and taste. 19th century Catalan priest-poet Jacint Verdaguer claims the name comes from the latin rata fiat - meaning 'agreed', more or less. Three bishops got together one day for some discussion or other. Once they'd come to an agreement they decided to toast it with the drink of the house - which at the time was nameless. Either a misunderstanding led them to confuse 'rata fiat' with teh name of the hooch, or they purposely named it such. Sometimes it's drunk with milk - a beverage called - pure breast milk! Catalan readers may be interested in the "Book of Ratafia" - El llibre de la ratafia RATAFÍAS Y LICORES DE HIERBAS DE TODO EL MUNDO by Jaume Fabrega. my most recent weird licor experience though was licor de calcot (a kind of Catalan spring onion) which tastes, funnily enough, like onions and is perhaps best kept for pickling or such like. or as an emetic.

You could try Productos Cárnicos Colom (C/Valhonrat 27) in Poble Sec. Not everything she sells is ecologic so you need to check with her. Also the restaurant Rebost de la Plana, Gran de Gracia 196-198 (Pl Trilla), 93 237 9046 serves organic meats, apparently, so you may be able to sound them out about suppliers?

If you go to http://www.sincarne.net/ you will find a listing of Asian (look under Chinese, Indian and International) 'supermarkets' in Barcelona. The site is in Spanish and English. k

And Catalonia, for that matter. Heck, for every corner of Spain. ← High season for tourists, yes, including Spaniards, including those who run and work in restaurants, so yes, some restaurants, especially those in cities like Barcelona and Madrid, do close for some or all of August. Wish it was August now - forgotten what it's like to be hot already...

Good idea David. On a clear day with little wind, the beach could be another option for a picnic. Or one of the parks on Montjuic - Jardins de Mosser Cinto Verdaguer even has grass! A rare commodity in this town where sand and dog poop are the more usual terroir. It's near the funicular stop (which I don't think is actually running, but you can still use it as a landmark ). Turn right out of the station and just follow the road round up to your right and you should see it in front of you. (Narcissus - this isn't to replace our PM communication - just thought I'd post this so others can see the info.)

25 and 26 December are Sunday and Monday this year - days when many restaurants in BCN are shut anyway, though that's probably not much of a consolation. And restaurants that are open and that take reservations may well be full - so start trying to book now. For impossible holiday dining I normally recommend trying restaurants in the Tragaluz group www.grupotragaluz.com, although they're erratic in terms of standards of food and service, eg Tragaluz, Agua, Bestial and Moo - which brings me to my second suggestion - restaurants in hotels - as well as Moo in the Omm there's Gaig in the unfortunately named Hotel Cramm, which recently had good feedback from an egulleteer, Enoteca and Arola (though the latter has had mixed, but generally negative I believe, reports here) in the Hotel Arts, and Drolma at the Hotel Majestic to name a few. I've only had personal experience of Moo - great food and wine but badly timed service and I didn't like the space (cold - atmosphere, rather than temperature-wise), though others have dined very happily there. But others on this forum should be able to help with comments, or you could do a search. These are certainly not the only places that will be open - just some pointers as to where you are most likely to find a table. Get out and about and have a wander around the Barri Gotic, Raval and Borne/St Pere areas and see what you find! We're not all Christians in this town so you might be able to get a curry or a kebab on the Rambla de Raval if you want to see the 'real' Barcelona! A final thought - restaurants that are open on holidays may well only be open for lunch so you may do well to plan on big lunches rather than dinners? And give that concierge a call/email - that's what you're paying for!

It has been mentioned before elsewhere but an obvious one for me (though in the current political climate, calling it a Spanish cookbook might be controversial!) is Catalan Cuisine by Colman Andrews. Although its bones are recipes - including traditional dishes, modern interpretations and Colman's own versions of things he's eaten in the paisos catalans - its meat consists of potted versions of Catalunya's gastro-socio-political histories and jaunty anecdotes from Andrews' own experiences. It's very occasionally a wee bit dated but still probably the best intro to the cuisine written in English. Recipes work well and he's good on suggesting work arounds for cooks with limited access to some of the more specialised ingredients.

Hope this isn't too late! I'm pretty sure the Vila Viniteca grocery store (opposite their wine shop) on C/Agullers in the Born had some non-glass containered (?) olive oil. Or try Formatgeria La Seu on on C/Dagueria in the Barri Gotic. And while you're there try her new cheese ice-cream! I also second the suggestion of the olive oil store in santa catarina market and Planelles Donat for turron. For something a bit different try Caelum on C/Palla in the Barri Gotic near Pl Pi. They sell sweet things and other delights made by monks and nuns in Spain and other European countries. I think that includes turron.

I first saw Cooking at home with Ferran Adria and Caprabo on the bookshelves at Cata 1.81. I was rather confused at first because I thought it had a really 70s or 80s look to it - kind of washed out colours on the cover, Ferran looking morose wearing some kind of tweedy jacket and carrying a couple of supermarket plastic bags on the cover. It had the general look of those 'gourmet cooking with your moulinex' type of books my mum used to have when I was little. By the way, this isn't a criticism, I thought it looked cool. Caprabo is a Catalan supermarket chain which, while not exactly (insert your own Wallmart-style reference here) is not exactly (insert your own Fortnum and Mason-style high-end grocers reference here). So I guess it's part of his bringing creative cooking to the masses. The idea, I think, is that you can use basic, easily available (ie at Caprabo) ingredients and, using relatively inventive and perhaps elaborate preparation and presentation techniques, produce something fancy and impressive out of them. Something which it seems is also done at El Bulli - ie though the ingredients are always the best of their kind they're not always necessarily expensive and/or rare and exclusive. It's what's done with them that's special. However, some of the 'recipes' are a bit 'duh'. Like take a bog standard take away pizza and jazz it up with fresh mozarella, basil, cherry toms and drizzles of olive oil. Sounds like the sort of thing you find in cooking for blokes who've had everything done for them all their lives by mothers/girlfriends and who've just been dumped and are trying to pull! I also seem to remember reading a quote from Adria which basically implied he's not too terribly interested in these commercial ventures, especially things like the cookbook above, and they're basically fundraisers for the activities in El Bulli and the Taller. This was in reference to a question about whether there'd be another book/video along the lines of Adria's Easy Cooking videos and the cooking in 10 minutes book he did for El Corte Ingles. For Pim's take on Cooking at Home with Ferran Adria go to http://tinyurl.com/9sjq4

Hey Viking, I've just moved to Gracia, so this is intriguing me. I think I've heard of this place but haven't sought it out yet. Is it (whisper) La Mar de Gracia? I need to befriend a fishmonger! Cheers K

I say Cinc Sentits. Why? They're such lovely people. You may not think that's the best reason to choose a restaurant, but although it's hard to eat and drink as well elsewhere at such reasonable prices, it may well be possible. However I know when I go there, on top of being served great food and wine, I will be treated warmly and well (and if not it will be sorted out without fuss or rancour), and I will feel glad that my dining euros are going to the Artals, the Angli (!) and their staff. So, in the absence of any particular desire other than the wish to have a wonderful dining experience, Cinc Sentits is always my top recommendation in Barcelona.

Just a note on Vinissim. Sadly at the moment it has been forced to close due to, seemingly, complaints from a neighbour about noise. Now, noise is a very serious issue in this city whose residents regularly live through decibel levels that could be classified as torture. Until recently I lived in the centre of the Barri Gotic very near to Vinissim so I can sympathise with anyone's wishing to do something about noise pollution.... however... It seems that complaints were only received from one neighbour and that the owners of the bar had, since it opened, made various attempts at improving their soundproofing, but it seems they cannot both appease the neighbour and still function. As I say, I do sympathise with anyone who has to live with noise pollution, however, I find it rather inequitable that a bar that shuts relatively early for Barcelona, with clientele who generally come for a few glasses of wine and tapas and generally leave in an orderly manner, should be closed on the say so of one person, whereas 'Irish pubs' with a clientele that basically comes to get p****d and then who roam drunkenly and noisily around the streets are allowed to proliferate like some hideous virus through the barri gotic. I know this is getting very off topic, but I am interested in the views of local egulleteers on this - are they interested in supporting any possible 'protest'? (don't worry, i'm not suggesting an okupa-style street march) Also I have to make clear that the owners of Vinissim told me about this so I do only have one side of the story.

Hi The train from Figueres goes to Girona, then you have to take a bus to the airport. The bus station is next to the train station and the journey takes about 20 minutes. The buses leave every hour on the hour from 5am-9pm. You get tickets on the bus. (this info is all from the renfe - the spanish railway company - site.) Re Sarfa bus. Looks like you need to get tickets in person at the bus station. Obviously, the earlier you can get them the better, in case the seats do get sold out.

Ditto the Kaiku recommendation for lunch (don't think they're open in evenings?). Haven't had the tasting menu but have thoroughly enjoyed the chef's paella with smoked rice. Also the brownies for dessert. But avoid the balsamic sorbet - like a malt vinegar slushy. mmmm. reservations are highly recommended especially at the weekends. Tel: +34 (0)93 221 9082. And of course ditto cinc sentits. Not cheap but the best value in town. I must be due another visit soon!

Just a quick note to avoid confusion - there is no train service to Roses, the company mentioned above is a bus service. You could take the train from Girona to Figueres, which is nearer to Roses, and then take a bus from Figueres to Roses. It just depends whether you want to change or not. Or perhaps I have created confusion

The Sarfa bus company runs a bus between Girona and Roses: www.sarfa.com. The web site has info in English. Go to Services/Interurban for times. I echo Bux's warning about booking accommodation for August - do it NOW! If you do want to stagger home after your meal you could try the campsite in Cala Montjoi! I think they have chalets. It may seem a little odd after a three-star meal but it means a short journey home and more money to spend on the food and wine! CAMPING & BUNGALOWS CIUTAT DE VACANCES CALA MONTJOI - ROSES (GIRONA) +34 972256212 http://www.campingsonline.com/calamontjoi/?asolink=on http://www.montjoi.com

I read somewhere or was told that *generally* (of course there are variations) that valdeon was less pungent than cabrales (that's been my experience so far) and that this was because of the climatic difference between the cheese-making areas - cabrales being wetter therefore more mould is produced. Or is this complete rubbish (or goat-sighing as I may now start to call it)?

Also try Mam i Teca. It's pretty small - about 4 tables - but they also have bar seating. (I haven't worked out how to link to previous posts so I've just pasted the text here!): From tjdnewyork: "I had the same problem last night. A number of high end places were open but I felt like something simpler but good. I ended up at a tapas place around the corner from where I'm staying that was excelent and is open until one every night but Tuesday. (but I think last order is 12:30) It's called Mam i Teca. Address is c/lluna 4, in El Raval. 93 44 13335 Excellent langostinos a la plancha--delicious salty broth in the heads. Very well-prepared and simply flavored dish. They have very good and somewhat unusual wines by the glass, especially a nice white from a region I didn't know of as a region for wine that I can't now remember. I also had the fresh pasta with blue cheese which would have been great except the pasta was overdone for my taste. Next time I'll ask for it al dente. The Dutch waiter/ maybe part-owner speaks perfect Engish and is really into the food and wine they serve. I'll go back again soon."

you may have noticed i've gone quiet although i admit to a certain amount of trepidation after seeing the previous efforts of my fellow challengees, the main reason is lack of time. Looks like I won't be able to do anything until July. But hey, expanding this over various months may be good - reflecting changes in produce coming in and out of season... maybe? It also looks like I'm gonna have to learn how to cook (and plate) properly before I dare show my efforts here! better stop before i run out of smilies

Hi folks I hope you'll forgive me for reviving this thread to ask a more specific question. Despite the fact that the Cantabrian Sea seems to be being fished to death , does anyone have any recommendations for seafood restaurants on/near the Asturian/Cantabrian coast (that will be open in August)? Or indeed, any other Asturian/Cantabrian recs - particularly in/around the Picos de Europa? Thanks in advance k

First, take a glass of cold water out to the grill to dip your finger in before you poke the meat. I do this because I am a wuss. Best way I ever heard this described was the 'face' method. Dip your finger into the water, then poke the steak. If it feels like the middle of your cheek, it's rare. If it feels like your chin (soft but with some bounce-back), it's medium. If it feels like the tip of your nose, it's well-done. I've heard the same thing about using your face for reference, but I've always used my earlobe to judge a rare steak - I find it works better since my cheek feels different every time I poke at it. ← and I've heard similar but using your hand, and this to judge a tuna steak. Pinch your thumb and index finger of one hand together and then poke the bit of your palm underneath your thumb (what's the name for this?) with your index finger of your other hand. This is 'rare'. Thumb and middle finger is medium and thumb and ring finger is overdone, apparently. But can't we all feel the difference between soft, hard and inbetween without a reference?

Yup Bux, Palafrugell is in the Baix Emporda, the lower bit of the Costa Brava (plus a bit inland). Palafrugell isn't quite on the coast - its 'beach' Calella de Palafrugell is, a lovely but touristy little ex fishing village. Botifarra dulce is a speciality of the Emporda I believe. But you can get it in Barcelona, la botifarreria de Santa Maria (excuse spelling) shop near the Santa Maria del Mar church has some, and Quimet i Quimet has some little ones that are given out like candy - mainly i think for the look of surprise on unknowing people's faces when they unwrap what they think will be a chocolate or similar, to see, well, they're generally not sure what until they put it in their mouths - and even then some of them are still puzzled. But I love em! After all, sweet and savoury is not that unusual a combination for most of us, but it's interesting that in this context as a 'candy' the combination throws many people. And yes pasas are 'dried grapes' - i think there's just been a bit of confusion between grape and grapefruit (which is actually a bit of a crazy name when you think about it.) Pepe - My guess is there's going to be some combination of sausages and some kind of apple/raisins/pinenut sauce??? I'm aiming to have my go this weekend. k

Formatgeria La Seu did have to close for a few months as Katherine had to go home to Scotland to care for her mother. But she's now back and open and will certainly welcome custom after having to close for such a long time!

Silly Did you decide on your recipe/menu first or go to the market first and just bought what took your fancy and then tried to construct a menu around that? (like Ready Steady Cook, if you know it!) Kirsten

Hi I know this was posted a fair while ago, but if you or anyone else reading knows the name of the hotel I'd be very grateful for it. I've found two hotels on Cap de Creus (not sure if I'd describe either as 'funky' from the pics): Hotel Restaurant Cal Mariner - www.cal-mariner.com Hotel Porto Cristo - www.hotelportocristo.com Is it either of these? Cheers Kirsten