Carlsbad

We had some wonderful cheeses on this last trip from Marie-Anne Cantin. It's a jewel box of cheese.

Berthillion was closed when we were there in late July, but there were a couple of other places on the Ile St-Louis selling their ice cream out front windows. They both had significant lines and were hard to miss. I also recall that the cafe on the east end of the island, facing the back of Notre Dame, also serves it year round.

Thanks, Docsconz. Another good thing about extensive planning is that it extends the travel experience well beyond the actual travel time.

Others for the "look", Chardenoux, Aux Charpentiers, and Fontaine de Mars.

A couple of thoughts and suggestions. I have that same type A planning thing. I enjoy the planning as much as the trip, but sometimes I wish I could be less scripted. I always have a lot more planned that can actually occur on a trip, but it is nice to know what the possibilities are so you have things to choose from and adapt according to weather and energy levels. We just spent two weeks in Paris and we didn't do half of what I wanted to, but at least I didn't waste time thinking about what the choices were. I agree with the suggestion that time be allowed for just taking in the place, which I find quite rewarding. Toward the end of our trip, after I'd had enought of the museums and regular sight-seeing, it was fun to just wander the neighborhoods and soak up the city, I tend to use taxis in Paris more as I get older. For short trips with multiple people they aren't all that expensive. Part of the problem is that we always seem to be late for dinner, and the only way we will be on time is to take a taxi. I usually find a taxi stand near where we are staying and ask at the restaurant where one is located when it's time to leave. Occassionally we have a restaurant call one if there is no stand close, but you do pay more that way. I've never had any luck hailing a taxi anywhere other than at an empty stand. I doubt you will ever find a taxi that the 5 of you can get in even if you could convince the driver to take you all, so you would have to take two of them if you are all riding. That may pose further logistical problems at night when many of the stands seem to be deserted and you would need to have two come by at the same time. I've had no luck at night pushing the button that some of the taxi stands have. Taxis would work well for the three of you going home from Gagnaire. There is something very exciting about a taxi ride around the Arc de Triomphe, down the Champs Elysees, and along the river at night. On our last night, we had a great taxi ride like that after dinner at Bofinger. My wife said she wanted to see the sights so the driver said he would "follow his nose." He took us along the river and over to the other side of the Eiffel Tower so we traveled by it when the light show was on, then back along the Champs Elysees to our apartment. The fare was about 25E as I recall, but we thought it was well worth it. You have a great list of restaurants, and you are probably going to be happy at any of them. One factor I like to consider when narrowing a list is whether a restaurant is in an area that has things I want to see- either before or after dinner or lunch. (I usually give up on substantial lunches fairly quickly into a trip though and have lunch at cafes wherever I am at lunch time.) For instance, before dinner at Mon Vieil Ami, we explored the Ile St-Louis and after we saw the lights on Notre Dame. The Eiffel Tower is handy to see before dinner at Au Bon Accueil, and late afternoon/early evening is a good time to go because the light is good and the lines always seem shorter. With kids involved, the ease of transportation on the metro would also be a factor. Have a nice trip.

We had one of our best dinners of the trip at Les Ormes. I had not been to the old location, nor to Bellecour, the restaurant that formerly occupied the space, and to which tribute is paid by keeping the quenelle in the manner of Bellecour on the menu. I thought the restaurant was very comfortable and handsomely decorated- intimate without being crowded. Part of that feeling may have stemmed from the fact that there were only three other tables occupied, by one American couple who had obviously followed Stephane Mole's cooking for some time, one young British couple, and a French couple. I think the fact that it was July 28 had something to do with the small crowd. The very capable maitre d'hotel, dressed in a black suit, handled all the service quite well. The food was outstanding. For starters, my wife and our friend had gratin of blue lobster that was rich and drew high praise, and I had langostines with a salad of vegetables, which I enjoyed very much. For mains the other two had a comforting, yet elegant jarret de veau, fork tender and without any greasiness, with light gnocchi. I had an outstanding loin of lamb. For dessert, my wife had her customary chocolate moelleux, which was nicely liquid in the center, and our friend and I had a peach soup with an unusual glace that made it very interesting. Unfortunately, I took no notes and I can't remember exactly what it was. Following the meal, M. Mole came out and talked with everyone. With three coups, a bottle of Condrieu and a bottle of a very nice 1996 Cantenac Brown (now maybe you understand why I'm having trouble with the details of the dessert), a bottle of Badoit, and three infusions, the total tab was 373E for three. We will return, and I would recommend this place very highly.

We ate at Fontaine de Mars in 2004. I found the place charming. The outside tables are very nice in warm weather (not sure how they will be in October), and the service was very friendly. The food was good, but not very exciting, and I remember being a little disappointed in the duck confit, but then I made the mistake of ordering it after a large foie gras starter so maybe that had something to do with it. It's in a good walking area. Last month, we had two great dinners at Mon Vieil Ami. The atmosphere is modern but complimentary to the setting on the Ile St-Louis. We thought the food was outstanding and quite different from what we had elsewhere, so much so that we returned a week later. The service was also very accomodating. They have some very good wines and the waiter was very knowledgeable about the food and the wines. It's obviously in a good area for walking. We've eaten twice at le Troquet, and loved it. Both times we had the degustation menu (37E) and the food was exciting and well-executed. The service is a little stretched when they are busy, but it's a fun place and I think your son would be comfortable there. It's not in a particularly interesting area for walking, however. We returned to Au Bon Acceuil last month after a long absence, and found the food as good as before. The service seemed a bit stretched, and I would try my best not to get stuck again in the small back room, which is non-smoking but very isolated. It's much nicer near the windows. (We also had dinner at Le Clos des Gourmet down the street, which we enjoyed more.) We also returned to Violin d'Ingres. It is more formal (and expensive) than the other places mentioned, but the food was outstanding. While we were there (in July), they were serving only one set menu, and the place was virtually deserted. You wouldn't have that problem in October. We wanted to have lunch at Cafe Constant, but it never worked out. When we were walking to the deserted Violon, we saw M. Constant talking to people at the front of cafe, which was packed with people. I realize you are probably trying to trim your list rather than add to it, but I'll mention two other places anyway. We had a very nice dinner at Le Pamphlet. We thought the food was all excellent, the setting charming and comfortable (old-fashioned even), and the service very good. They had some interesting, reasonably priced wines as well. After dinner, we had a nice walk back toward the river through Le Marais. We also enjoyed L'Angle du Faubourg very much, and thought the food was exceptional for the money. The setting is modern, but not uncomfortably so. I would call the food traditional with some modern touches, The service was very good, especially the young woman sommelier, who suggested two wines that were exceptional. I think they would make your son feel at home. After dinner, it's a short walk to the Arc de Triomphe and Champs Elysees. Edited for typos.

I second L'Osteria del Forno.

We had dinner with our two friends at Aux Lyonnais the fourth night of our trip. One reason for the final choice of restaurants this trip was the fact that our friends would be with us. One of them is not as adventuresome as we are when it comes to food and tends to order house wines or sometimes no wine at all. The other is just the opposite, he'll try almost anything good and likes to order finer, more expensive wines. The latter also dislikes cramped restaurants, especially if they are hot. For that reason, I eliminated many of the smaller bistros I would have liked to try, but I included Aux Lyonnais because I we had not bee there before. Although the night started out a little rocky, everyone had a good time and thought the food was very good. One friend and I had the set menu, which has a couple choices for each course. We both had the generous charcuterie starter, which was excellent. My wife had the oeuf cocotte, which she raved about, and I forget what our other friend had. I had the quenelle with two small crayfish, which at first seemed too small, but was the right amount. It was light with an excellent quite rich sauce, and I would order it again. I can't remember what the other menu main was, but our friend enjoyed it very much. The less adventuresome friend had the Noix de veau, which he said was good. My wife had the pigeonneau, which she ordered rose, but the breast was underdone to the point it was cold in the middle. The desserts were all good, if not terribly exciting. With aperitifs, two bottles of Moulin au Vent and coffees, the total tab for four was 238E. We'll probably go back next trip, but without the friends this time.

One of the places we enjoyed most on our trip was Mon Vieil Ami on the Ile St. Louis. It's been described here before very well. One friend decided he couldn't keep up with the eating schedule, so we changed the reservation to three, and had a table in the center back, where we could observe the kitchen. The seating is pretty close, but not uncomfortably so. Since we had a 9:30 reservation, the place was winding down a bit. The chef greeted us as we sat down, and we were able to talk to him quite a bit during the evening and watch him through the door as he calmly assembled the dishes. We were offered either a glass of pinot blanc or a mixed fruit and vegetable juice aperitif, which were included with the dinner. Both were very nice, but the juice was more interesting. Our charming young waiter was very knowledgeable and helped us select the wines. Unfortunately, I haven't located the check from that night and didn't take any notes as I had intended. I recall a splendid, very dry Alsatian Reisling and a very good red wine- a lighter Burgundy I believe. As has been discussed here before, the menu lists the vegetables before the meat, fish or fowl, and there is clearly an emphasis on fresh produce. For the entree, my wife had the pate en croute, which was excellent if the only vegetable in sight was a small accompanying green salad. It had a foie gras center, some delicious aspic and a crust that tasted like a crust should. The portion was enough for two, and our friend and I were forced to help her. Our friend had a dish of vegetables with fresh sardines, and he loved it. I had a dish of vegetables with an poached egg on top, although I'm having trouble remembering the exact ingredients. I recall that the vegetables were a combination that I often see, but the addition of the egg was unusual and made the dish. For the plats, our friend and I had a wonderful breast of veal for two, which was served boneless in a metal casserole with several vegetables, including carrots, potatoes, small green beans, and sweet snap peas. It would have been a healthy portion for three, and the meat was nicely carmelized and the sauce was light but very flavorful. It's something that almost anyone would find comforting. My wife had her own little pot with fish filet with crisp skin, a dorade I believe, also with interesting vegetables, although I was too interested in mine to pay much attention. They ran out of the tarte chocolat, so my wife (and friend) had an excellent peach soup, and they both raved about it. I had an apricot dessert the details of which are hazy. I believe it was something of a compote with an unusual ice cream, but I can't remember what it was, which is not a reflection on the dish. We enjoyed everything so much, we decided to switch things around and return a week later, another Sunday and the last day they were open before closing for two weeks. Our fourth again backed out so we got the same table and the same waiter. The chef greeted us warmly, but everyone in the kitchen seemed busy getting ready for the closure so we saw less of him. The waiter remembered what we had ordered the week before and helped us order the wines again. As the evening became less hectic we chatted with him about restaurants. We had a different Reisling, which the check identifies only as Osterberg. I recall it as also very dry, but perhaps less fruity and with a more mineral quality than the one on the first night, but equally as enjoyable. Our red wine was a very nice Charmes Chambertin, which I loved, but it was quite expensive at 84E, so I should have. Our friend and I had a mijotee de legumes, each of the 7 or 8 vegetable perfectly cooked and retaining its own taste, in a broth flavored with spices that made me think of Morocco. I soaked up every last drop with the very good bread. My wife had a jambon plate with some grilled bread. Again the portion was very large, and we had to help her somewhat. It appeared to be extremely flavorful Serrano ham to me, but could well have been something else. Whatever it was, it was excellent. My plat was a large cooked green (heirloom?) tomato sliced horizonally and filled with small pieces of what I remember as tete de veau, served with a small, flavorful chicken breast. (I had quite a bit of head and feet on this trip, pork and veal, so I may be confused as to the stuffing. The check only identifies it as "tomato et poulette".) If anyone has had this dish, I would appreciate a clarification. My wife and friend both had a large cassarole of duck breast with vegetables and I believe more exotic spices. They didn't come close to finishing it, but I was in no shape to help at this stage of the trip. They both had their chocolate tart and I had a tarte du jour, the details of which I can't remember. With 3 verveine infusions, the two bottles of fairly expensive wine, and 2 large Badoit, the total tab was 270E for three on this second night. The entrees were 8-10E, the mains 21E and the desserts were 8E, and they have some very nice lesser priced wines, so the total tab can be much lower. We all thought it was a place worthy of a return whenever possible. Edited for typos and to add the duck plat.

Mine looked more appetizing on the plate.

I'm back from two weeks in Paris and will try to write about the experience over time. I have to confess that I failed to take any notes despite good intentions. I do recall clearly that the first night my wife and I were stranded in Philadelphia with no luggage, but that is another story. Thierry Burlot was scheduled for that night, but he will have to wait for the next trip. We rented an apartment this time, which allowed us to try some of the cheeses, wines and other food items that are more difficult when staying in a hotel. Since our apartment was in the Palais Royale, we concentrated on shops in that area. I bought some wines at Legrand Filles et Fils, which had a nice selection and friendly people to assist. Their wine bar which spills onto the Gallerie Vivienne, was also very pleasant and had a small selection of interesting wines by the glass at quite reasonable prices. We also tried chocolates from Jean-Paul Hévin and Michel Cluize, bread from Max Poilane, and coffee at Torréfacteur Verlet. We made one trip to Fauchon, and I shopped along the rue Montorgueil. The cooked poulet fermier, stuffed with thyme, from one of the traiteurs there was outstanding. The spits were turning while I was there. I was going to return, but realized they were closed on Monday, so I went to Gargantua, where I bought one that was almost as good. As with all trips, we didn't do or see nearly everything we had planned, and we learned quickly to supress the urge to try to lunch at all the places we wanted to try for dinner after several lunches. Even so, thirteen big dinners in a row are a bit much for me these days. Next time, I think we will leave some unplanned nights open to allow for light dinners and the places we discover while we are there. The friend we were sharing the apartment with arrived before us, and had the first night to himself. He ended up at a small place called Aux Trois Oliviers, less than a hundred meters from the apartment at 37 bis rue Montpensier. He told us about the fish soup and the good welcome. It's a simple place with good provencal food and the friendliest of owners, Edouard and his lovely wife, who made us feel like family. Chef Bruno does the cooking. We had lunch there one day, which consisted of crudites followed by daube and magret, both served in metal pots with lots of fresh herbs and vegetables, and dessert. It was far too much to eat if there was any hope for dinner, but we made a good effort. We went back for drinks several times, and every night there is a party. I can vouch for the mojitos, which are topped off with champagne rather than soda. If we had had one of those unplanned nights, we would have tried the bouillabaisse, which has to be ordered ahead and is 38E per person. Next time we will. We also had lunch at Casaluna, a Corsican just around the corner from our apartment at 6 rue de Beaujolais. John Talbott had reviewed it favorably, and we enjoyed it very much. The generous 15E lunch was a bargain, and the food, service and atmosphere were all excellent. Unfortunately, I can remember only my plat, seiche, which they translated as octopus, in a black sauce. I think it was large cuttlefish or squid, but it was good whatever it was. Another lunch was at Sancerre, a wine bar at 22 Ave. Rapp. As we have several times before, we had omelettes, green salad and Sancerre, which were all as they should be. We also had lunch at Polidor mostly for sentimental reasons and because it was open on Sunday. The lentil salad was okay, if a little bland, the pintade was decent (the cabbage with it was very good), the price was right, and I didn't eat too much so I enjoyed dinner that night. We visited the Delacroix Museum one day and had lunch one day at Les Deux Magots. I've been there for drinks before many times, but never for lunch. We had the friendliest waiter I've ever seen in a Parisian cafe. He not only offered to take our picture when he saw our camera, but when our friend mentioned I was suffering a little from a "gueule de bois" (thanks to those mojitos), he said he had the ultimate cure and brought me a couple of alka seltzers. They did seem to help. The food was quite respectable, but the charming waiter made the lunch special. More later. Edited to fix typos.

The trip was great, thanks. The food agenda might have been a little too ambitious, but we enjoyed everything. We had dinner at Au Bon Acueil, Taillevent, Aux Lyonnais, Le Troquet, Mon Viel Ami (twice), Angle de Faubourg, Le Violon d'Ingres, La Bastide Odeon, Les Ormes, Le Pamphlet, Le Clos de Gourmet, and Bofinger. We missed out on Thierry Burlot because we spent the first night in Philadelphia instead of Paris, courtesy of U.S. Airways. I'll be posting about it all as soon as things get back to normal and I figure out where to start.

We had dinner at Le Violon d'Ingres last week, and they had only one five course menu available (no a la carte) at 80E, and I think that they said they were going to serve it through August. The food was very good, if a bit simplified (especially the cheese course), and a relative bargain since the usual tasting menu is 110E. The place was deserted though. We saw Chef Constant at Cafe Constant as we walked to the restaurant, and the cafe was packed. You might check to see if any of the three Constant places are open when you are there. Bofinger is another of the Flo brasseries you might consider. It's a beautiful place. The food isn't all that exciting, but if you keep it simple, you can eat well for a reasonable price. We enjoyed Clos des Gourmets very much, and Michelin says they are open until Aug. 10. I'd go back there in a minute. Mon Vieil Ami opens again mid August, and I thought it was terrific- one of the stars of the trip. Bastide Odéon is open (according to Michelin) until the 8th. I thought the food was interesting and quite good, the surroundings were cool on a hot night, the service was cordial, and the price was right. I really enjoyed Le Pamphlet, and Michelin and Pudlo say they are open until the 8th. They have some interesting, reasonably priced wines and interesting, well prepared food at good prices. The owner is a bit grumpy, but in a nice way. And finally, you might check on Ze Kitchen Galerie. We didn't (John Talbott recommended it, but I couldn't get past the name), but I asked the very knowledgeable young waiter at Mon Vieil Ami where he would go for a special night, and he said there. From the advice he gave us on the food and wine, I would say he knows what he is talking about. As does M. Talbott.

(Literally) just back from 2 weeks in Paris and very jet lagged. When are you going?

Thanks for the update, John, and for all the help you and everyone else gave us in planning this trip. We are off this morning for two weeks in Paris. I'll report back when we return.

I think we were on the same page as Bux- we did those same three on one trip, and had the same reaction.

I wonder if he's still at L'Ampere, since the new Pudlo doesn't mention him. Cityvox mentions him, but it may be out of date. It appears they will be open August 1 for our last night in Paris. Maybe we will check it out. Interestingly, we are going to Thierry Burlot's restaurant the first night we are in Paris (Tuesday). I didn't realize it was Detourbe's old location, where we enjoyed two dinners previously, until this post.

Detourbe. Does anyone know what he is up to these days?

Whatever you decide is going to be great. For the past few years, we have gone to the cafe for a (very) long lunch, usually with friends. Russ is right about the cheese- it's like the rest of the food- not a large volume, but just enough and always first rate A car while visiting SF is something of a burden, but if it's only one night, it's not a big deal. What kind of a hotel are you looking for? Are you driving out of the area the next day?

If I were 30 years younger, I might be applying for a job.

The range of Mexican food is wide, but the food I'm guessing that most Americans would miss in France is what we find in taco shops: tacos, flautas, tortas, enchiladas, chiles rellenos, etc. The items that are needed but wouldn't be available seem to mostly boil down to tortillas, chiles, and pre-made sauces- as for the enchiladas, for those not willing to make their own. Depending on the kind of sauce you want, tomatillos might also be needed. But you can buy very respectable canned enchilada sauces- much better than regular salsas in my opinion. It seems to me that if you can find a market with dried and canned chiles and tortillas, you could make pretty respectable taco shop food. You can make carne asada or pollo asado from flank steak or chicken breast for instance. You can fry some chips. Make some guacamole and salsa. I'm guessing you can get dried pinto beans somewhere. I admit 6€ for a Dos Equis is a lot, but maybe if I've been away for a long time. Margaritas are something that most places, even in San Diego make poorly. I think the problem with real margaritas is that they are very strong, and deceptively so. So we end up with sweet-and-sour mix to dilute it so bars can sell more. All you need to make a proper margarita is one part fresh lime juice, one part orange liqueur (Cointreau is the best, but after the first one triple sec is fine) and 3 parts tequila. Shake it with ice and pour into a cocktail glass, with a salted rim. (The salt is important, even if it is bad for the blood pressure.) Fleur de sel works well. Any bartender in Paris can make it if you tell him what you want. Tamales require masa, corn husks (or banana leaves if you are in Oaxaca) and a lot of patience. I usually buy tamales by the dozen from church groups or my favorite shops. I hope Lucy's guests appreciate the work involved.

Thanks for the suggestions. After two weeks of eating, I doubt our mood (or pocketbook) will be wanting anything approaching Arpege. We already have a reservation at Au Bon Accueil earlier in the trip, but we could always repeat. Chez les Anges sounds like a good choice, also. I guess I could also move Bofinger to the last night, but then I'd have to find another Sunday spot. It's nice to have such problems.

We leave a week from tomorrow for two weeks in Paris. I have reservations for every night except our last night, Monday the 1st of August. Nothing on my list seems to be open that night, except Bofinger, and we are going there the night before. Does anyone have a suggestion?

Last summer, we stayed at La Cabro d'Or, a one-star little sister to Oustau de Baumaniere, and right next door. We had been there in 1989, and it was even better this time. The hotel is gorgeous, and quite reasonably priced. Dinner on the terrace was magical. The food was outstanding, and to watch the sun reflecting against Le Baux while the sounds of nature are all around is about as good as it gets. You can see the menu and details here. While we were there, I looked again at the Oustau, and was glad we were where we were. I agree with Kate Hill, the Nord Pinus is a fantasy hotel. The intimate bar is almost perfect, and if it's too hot, you can have a drink (perhaps some of the thyme-flavored fire water) outside in the front, on the Place du Forum. The women who run the hotel are very welcoming, professional, and helpful. There is so much to see in the area. Don't miss, in addition to what has been discussed, Nimes, Le Baux, St-Remy, the Pont du Gard, Avignon.....