sf&m

Can't walk by the Shamrock stand without having a portion of half Calamari and half Eperlan. It's good, the calamari is very tender. It comes with an undefinable "hot sauce" you squeeze from a bottle and a small tub of Kraft (!) Tartare Sauce. You grab a "napkin" from the roll of paper towels. It's street food - calamari, lighlty breaded dumpted in oil, served up right there - honest as can be. From what I can tell usually all their tables are taken by muching customers - no complaints. Try it. I also noticed that the Italian deli next door (Capitol?) now has a stand serving sausages.

Actually, they crossed out that address (on the card) which used to be the same for both Le Tartarin and Boucherie Prince Noir. The said they had moved. I guess to Jean Talon Market - sans Le Tartarin. /gth

There is a new meat counter at Jean Talon - Boucherie Prince Noir. They will go in permanently in the new extension when that opens. Good selection of "viande chevaline". They used to be on St Denis. Seems to be associated with Resto Le Tartarin by the look of their card. Also Pilibon Melons still available at Chez Louis - now at $6 per. Flown in from France each week. /gth

If that doesn't make you hungry nothing will!! Thanks for a great review!! Can't belive I haven't been to APdC yet...... I want that "sandwich" NOW! May I ask what kind of camera you used? I assume you'd have to use flash. I've been too timid to whip out a camera in a restaurant - what's the reaction - if any - when you take these pictures? /gth

That's bad news indeed. Sad they could not have gotten another vinyard to buy it. I guess it makes some "business sense" if they intend to keep the "Brand" and grow it in Alsac and export it to SAQ - and get cash out of the land to do it. Sad day for QC wine. I too looked for DJoos Rosé last Saturday - that last one I needed for my "Rosé Expose" - but the ONE bottle supposedly at SAQ Rockland could not be found and I did not have time to go to the store which had some left - darn, probaly all gone before I get back. I guess it doesn't matter now.... BTW Carswell - as price comparison to SAQ the Tavel d'Aqueria is about US$16 here in SF and the Hortus you had mentioned is about US$9.00. Seems about right. As a switch from Tavels - Try the Pétale de Rose côtes-de-provence rosé 2003 - very pretty pale colour yet (to me) surprisingly full body and tannins. Product Code: 00425496.

Anybody know what this is all about? Québec resserre le contrôle sur les vins du terroir I don't know what private stores they are talking about that sells QC wine. Unless it's Marche De Saveurs etc. But their wine sales is made under some SAQ arrangement I thought. I just can't believe it's the wineries own sales they are after. The article above has basically this text: Québec entend mettre un terme aux ventes, dans les magasins privés, de vin du terroir québécois qu'il est possible de retrouver dans les succursales de la Société des Alcools du Québec. Selon le gouvernement, qui veut ainsi protéger le monopole de la SAQ, la croissance des ventes de vin du terroir dans les magasins privés peut ouvrir la porte à des produits similaires venant de l'extérieur du Québec. La SAQ craint que des producteurs étrangers puissent invoquer des traités internationaux pour s'établir à leur tour dans les magasins privés et passer outre le monopole de la société d'État. Pour les producteurs, la décision de Québec, à l'aube de la saison productive dans les vignobles, est tout simplement catastrophique.

Carswell, as a side note on Cloudy Bay - tried to score some from the distributor in Toronto last year. (The Merchant Vintner Ltd. ) Allocation was long gone in August and this year it's worse because they had bad spring frost in NZ 2003.

You are reading my mind!! The week before last I had occasion to go down to Dunham and before I knew It had become a Rosé expedition. I stopped off at Cote D'Ardois and got a couple of their DeChaunac Rosé then ran down to Domain du Ridge and picked up a couple of their 2002 Rosé. It's a Marechal Foch. They also had an offer of 12 x 500 ml of their 2001 Rosé(Foch) which is quite interesting. So I got that. On my way back I stopped into L'Orpailleur and got couple of bottles of their Rosé as well. (Blend of DeChaunac, Marechal Foch and Black Seyval (??? I think they said - will find that out). (Most of these are probably availalable at Maison De Saveurs - except to 2001 Ridge.) Had planned to publish (here) a comparison of these Rosés with Inexpensive French Rosés but had to go back to SF before I had a chance to indulge. However, a couple of of the 2001 Ridge did not seem to present an inital consumption problem. Of course I have continued my research here in SF with some L'Hortus and a nice Cote-de-Luberon Rosé (South East Rhone by AOC - Really Provence) I found in my local store - Val Joanis (Syrah and Gamay). No - SAQ does not carry Val Joanis - I checked. BTW - The Dietrich Joos is the only QC Rosé carried by SAQ I think. Does someone know what grape(s) they use? Next week I'll check out some Tavel and Bandol. All in the name of getting scientifically calibrated. As soon as I get back to Montreal I will publish a comparison testing here. What got me started was a realization that QC Rosés *might* be competitive to at least inexpensive quaffing French Rosés. Ok, so no great shakes in Gourmet land but what the heck, it's summer, it's fun, and why can't we get a QC Rosé on a Montreal Restaurant Terrasse? Quebec wine is coming and getting better ALL THE TIME. Yeah, and that means Reds too!! What better ways to introduce french wine drinkers to DeChaunac and Foch or Cabernet Franc then a funky QC Rosé? You have to start somewhere. That's my ulterior motiv - of course I will be totally objective in my taste comparison - stanby! I suppose I now have to fess up in the name of disclosure - I am involved in setting up a new QC winery, but it's 4-5 years before we have product - if at all.

Hmm, aren't you in the wrong season? Traditionally, wouldn't you slaughter the fat ducks in the fall, and "put them up" for winter? Especially if you're after Ducks that have spent a happy summer foraging and eating tender greens etc. Season, what the ducks eat and temperature would have a great deal of influence on final outcome (?)...

La Girondine - remember- from a couple of weeks ago, raises Moulard Ducks. (Only!) You can probaly order them (the legs) via their Atwater Market outlet.... /gth

Accordng to the La Presse article La Girondine's products are sold at Marché Atwater. Did not mention what merchant though... 65% of their production sold directly at the farm so a visit is probaly in order. /gth

Carswell, there is an interesting article in La Presse today - Monday June 7th - about a small duck producer - La Girondine in Frelightsburg. Could not see anything about duck confit...but.... It's on pp3 in "La Presse Affaires" They also have a website: La Girondine

For a great taste comparison, (and subsequent argument) make a run down 15 to Hemmingford, pickup up some Neige and/or Frimas at La Face Cachee and continue west down the road to Havelock and visit Jean and Line Joly at Vignoble du Marathonien - Jean and Line make arguably the best Vidal Icewine in Quebec. You can't get Marathonien at Marche des Saveurs so it's a good excuse to get off the regular foraging trail. They also make a Marecheal Foch/DeChaunac that might start you thinking Quebec wine has a future. Ok, they have a goofy label but trust me.... I think both heralds what is to come in Quebec wine and cider..... Also, while in Hemmingford make a bee line for Ciderie du Minot. Ice Cider - and a great Sparkling Cremant de Pomme Rose made exclusively from Geneva Apples. At about 5% Alcohol it's perfect for a summer outing without exacerbating your Quebec driving habits. /gth

jayt90 - Ice Cider is cider from Juice extracted from FROZEN Apples. So, just like for icewine, the juice is concentrated in terms of sugar content and aromatics. BEFORE fermentation. Some producers also concentrates Apple juice by freezing...... supposedly not with the same good result. Some even claim to leave Apples on the trees and harvest them in January..... hmmmm... The "standard method" , as I understand it, is by storing the Apples outside until February - in Quebec. Because of the DRY cold air there is some "freeze drying" going on - which enhances sugar and flavours. Far as I know there is no Botyris going on. Obvioulsy fermentation profile, yeast and mixture of apples used plays a big role in creating a balance of sweetnes/acidity/flavours - an art which we have by no means seen the end of I am sure. Pinnacle for instance use 6 different types of Apples in some of their Ice Ciders. Don't mistake Ice cider for the traditional Quebec "Aperitif" ciders, which are sweet fortified ciders. Ice ciders are ciders fermented from 30+ brix juice to 12 % alcohol and residual sugars. SAQ now carries some ice ciders and I've even seen a Cidre Nicholas in LobLaws - if you're in Montreal. Outside of Montreal you'll most likely find La Face Cachee de la Pomme or Pinnacle since these seem to have the most marketing "juice".

It's great and has only been around for a few years so it's still developing by leaps and bounds. I think it has a great future. I like it with a Quebec cheese platter (you know...that inconsistent, amateur stuff, harumppph...) Or use it in cooking (emulsified with drippings) with pork or as I tried the other day, with duck confit. YUM! Ice cider does not have the depth and nunaces of a good ice wine but the best have a reasonably good balance of sweetness and acidity. Most alert in terms of marketing and also - far as I can tell - quality, are Pinnacle and La Face Cachee de la Pomme. (Sorry about no accents). La Face Cachee has two kinds, Neige and Frimas - Frimas being the premier. Pinnacle has three kinds on the market. Also Ice Ciders to check out are Cidre Nicholas and Cidre Minot. A good place to get them is Marche Des Saveurs at Jean Talon Market. They carry about 6-8 different Ice Ciders including the onces above. Ice cider will cost you $15-30 for a 375 ml bottle vs $50+ for ice wine. BU now has Frimas on the wine chart and I suspect many other Montreal rest. have or will carry Ice ciders in the near future. /gth

Carswell, I've been following your excellent Confit trail with a lot of interest and I intend try out your best recommendations in ernest. Maybe it's my attachment to Jean Talon Market or culinary adventurism but I am as of today the proud owner of two confit legs which I got at a stall at Jean Talon M. "Les Volailles du Marché - owned by Mr Michel Morin. He features "Canard de Barbaries" from a Quebec city area farm "Le Canard Goulu"... The confit legs (2) come in a 6 in canning jar with about 4 inches af duck fat on top. The hefty legs are about 6 inches tall. $24 per 800 gram jar! But I estimate there is at least $5.00 worth of duck fat in there. (They sell duck fat also at about $8.50 per 500 gram). OK- so what to do??? Can these be roasted like you tells us? What about these being Barbary Duck legs? Are they going to be too tough roasted? The farmers recommendation from the back of the jar - heat'em and eat'em... "Verser le contenue de pot dans un chaudron. Laisser mijoter à feu doux 15 minutes. Servir avec des légumes de saison." And for the potatoes: "Vous pouvez aussi retire une partier de la grasse fine et y faire rissoler des pommes de terre." Which sounds pretty good to me! And I like the non-cryovac packaging. Your recommendations would be highly appreciated. /gth

Carswell, let's put it this way - there has never been any leftovers! But of course it's not SWEDISH PricessCake - harumph! Now "we" just have to find it in MONTREAL. /gth

For Baklawa try Picadilly (greek bakery) in ParcX. Also have those custards you cut from a pan like baklawa. (and very nice REAL yoghurt if so inclined.)....etc. Re: Custard tarts, Thanks, I need to try some Montreal Dim Sum anyhow. Yeesh, Carswell, you never cease to amaze me! I've only just started following your foraging trail for duck confit. Thanks for that BTW. For a demo how to make the Marzipan Dome for the Pricess Cake check this link: Pictoral Princess Demo or Princess cake recipe in English[/url I can get Princess Cake at my local italian bakery (Victoria) in SF so I thought some of the European flavour bakeries here might have it. /gth

Speaking of Custard Tart(lets). (And a bit off topic.) Anybody know of a good place for Chinese Dim Sum or bakery custard tarts? (In SF they are common in Dim Sum places.) And btw, anyone making "Pricess Cake" in Montreal? It's a rounded profile cake covered with light green colored marzipan. /gth

Call me chicken, but personally I always declare what I have. It might be expensive but it's not worth loosing the wine. And for California wine, SAQ prices being what they are, you're likely to come out ahead anyhow. Most of the time customs agents have been bending over backwards to make it as easy and least expensive as possible and been most accommodating. And being a guest - breaking the law of the land is bad karma, I think. Except when they confiscated my Swedish Cheese (declared,coming in to Montreal from Europe) because some obscure EU/NOT EU cheese rule. That got me upset...Oh, well.... Declare and tell them it's for you personal use, and that you're a wine nut. /gth

Maybe this is not totally relevant to what you want to do, but I've brought in a considearable amount of California wine over the years of going back and forth between San Francisco and Montreal every month. I've outfitted a hardcase suitcase so I can carry 8-12 bottles at a time. The charge seems totally up the the customs agents - from the guys that says it's really expensive and manage to charge only a minimal sum (or wave me through even) to full charge which is close to 100% of the wine cost in California Seems if I go through Toronto it's a lot cheaper. Last time (100% charge) coming into Montreal the major portion was not duties and taxes but some "Alcohol Surcharge" ( I think about 80% of the charge.) I guess that goes to the dear Monopoly? /gth

To me the most outrageous SAQ policy is their lack of attention to local producers. 4 years ago when I started coming into Montreal regularly, there were NO QC wines in any SAQ that I found. (Except perhas some "gift package" fortified fruit wine.) Not to speak of the plethora of drinkable wines coming out of Ontario and BC. Here we have a goverment (owned or apointed?) monopoly and they can't even support their own (taxpaying) producers!!?? I never forget when I first walked into a SAQ and asked where the Canadian wines were and they guy looked positively bewildered. I finally found maybe two or three ON and BC wines. Well hidden. Granted - most QC wines are (were) not much to write home about but that is besides the point especially if you consider SAQ is not above delivering DEP plonk. And the local QC producers quality is RAPIDLY improving - It SHOULD be SAQ's monopoly DUTY to represent their own taxpayers. And educate their customers to small local products that should be the pride and joy of every Quebecker. Even at a loss!! Or get out of the way and let a local merchant sell a case or two of the regional product. Lately I've seen some movement towards some representation of QC, ON and BC wines but it is still way (WAY) under where it ought to be. And I think they still throw up barriers to local producers in terms of rigemarole and volume requirements. I had an interesting conversation at L'Orpailleur last summer. They claimed they rather liked the SAQ price structure because it allowed them to sell their wines to restaurants at SAQ prices. Which sounds pretty shortsighted and to me and could have a lot to do with the under reprepresentaion of QC wines in Montreal restaurants. Who knows. The SAQ hydra controls it - dark forces at work - bats are flying, basically. BUT (to balance) there is Marche De Saveurs at Jean Talon for local wines. And the selection of wines at a SAQ beats most US wines stores - certainly for for French wines - but it comes at a STEEP price, and I am not talking about the sticker on the bottle. /gth

Not being a breakfast man myself - Vitamin Pills, Perrier and Espresso seem to be the standard items - I have to say you have better croissants in most Couche-Tards than I can get in San Francisco. At least without major foraging. It would be fun to know where to get the REALLY GOOD croissants - when the urge to splurge comes on. Thank you Montreal!! /gth

Yep, North Beach. I do the Sunday flights, 671 from Montreal , returning every two weeks on 672. We're some lucky bastards, eh? Bay Area and Montreal. That's a union made in foodie heaven! I assume you're tuned into Jean Talon market? Beats anything we got in SF. By far! /gth

And 10 steps further down on Dante (on the next corner) is VERY GOOD and cosy heigbourhood Italian Restaurant - Cafe Dante. Check opening times though, daytime I think it's run as Cafe - Sunday closed. Not to speak if you back up a block on Dante to Pizzeria Napolitana (H'm is that the name?)....anyway...huge selection of thin crust "real" pizzas. Best in Montreal? Bring your own wine. And just to add to what carswell and others said about Cuincaillerie Dante: Unbelievable selection of QUALITY kitchen gear. Floor to ceiling, and not an isle wider then 18 inches. French, German and Italian made stuff. And of course, you can also get a 12 gauge pump action Winchester. Happiness is a hot skillet and a warm gun! and and and Ah... little Italy. If it wasn't for North Beach I'd STARVE being away from you. Even if it's only for two weeks a month. /gth