John Talbott

A study done by IPSOS of French eating habits summarized by Radio France revealed that only a small minority of those surveyed were interested in great cuisine and that while they knew names like Robuchon, Bocuse and Ducasse (curiously, despite his M6 exposure, Cyril Lignac was known by fewer than half, the same percentage as the Troisgros) and 3/4ths would eat in a three star resto, they weren’t willing to spend more than the 106 € for everything including wine & alcohol, which is inadequate. They also thought Italian and Chinese (followed by Spanish and Magrebian) cuisine was the best outside of French cooking and was accessible. Almost half of those surveyed thought that French cuisine was unaffected by foreign influences. Younger and more educated respondents were more favorable to foreign cuisines such as Indian and Japanese.

I love teasing Felice and I recall the old dictim made famous by the Kaplan or Sylvan Learning folks I suppose - that whenever you see always or never in a MCQ, it's incorrect.Anecdote: (I know, scientists mistrust n's of 1); today while eating at a Chez in the deepest 17th, the waiter delivered the dishes to the couple, about my age, from Marne La Vallée, beside me, and said "Bon Appetit" and they simultaneously said to each other - you got it. It was retro certainly, improper perhaps, but so spontaneous, it was charming (and not as Margaret defined it).

Oh I intend to (Bellotta-Bellotta is French isn't it? Just kidding). But as I was thinking back to what she served us, I realized that the local cheeses were something I had not expected.

In this Monday’s Le Fooding they announced that Sunday June 3rd, there will be a Fooding event in Toulouse.

If you don't hear back (he's got lots of email traffic) pick up the phone and call, a bit before dinner is a good time.

Marianne don't underestimate the taste of "no experts". I find that many of the pros get so burned out that they start stretching for something interesting to write and in so doing fail to give us a basic report, to wit, François Simon's rather silly recent critique of Fontaine Fiacre which I have visited for a €15 lunch 3 times recently and found it quite imaginative, especially at the bargain basement price, whereas "Simple Simon"only concentrated on a tiny portion of the carte, which you must request by name, which is devoted to the health conscious among us...cute but not representative of a real life experience by someone like you. ← I agree wholeheartedly. You are an expert by dint of your willingness to choose, go to, savor, think about and write up restaurants intelligently.Chefs and kitchens have on and off days, places are stunning the first week/month, then flame out after their "discovery;" (other places mature which is why some critics like Rosa Jackson wait a long time before going) and except for Burger King and its ilk, no place rotely turns out the same product the same way every day (recall Rex Harrison explaining how he could do, was it 5000 performances of My Fair Lady?, without going nuts.) Then too, two people can taste the same dish and disagree as to the quality of product, doneness, accompaniments, etc. The best we as consumers can do is triangulate the wisdom of friends, touts, the media and eGullet" sources. Now to Francois Simon. He probably deserves an entire new thread because he's one of the most interesting, intruiging and infuriating critics there is. More times than not I finish a "Croque Notes" and say to myself - "Huh?" He prides himself on being a journalist, uses arcane words and obscure references, and has standards that are not always clear. I agree with Laidback that the Fontaine Fiacre has inventive cooking as I wrote last year. Maybe he got out of the wrong side of the bed that day, maybe his wife and he had an argument (Bocuse's explanation of why couples driving to his place from Lyon sometimes don't like his food) or maybe he was trying to make a point - although that's strange since in his book he touts healthy food, good fresh seasonal products, etc. Anyway, you're an expert and keep it up.

Thank you for the nudge Therese, now that I think about it, as 18 year olds bicycling down the Loire, we (French and Americans) did eat La Vache Qui Rit before meals.

I was going to PM Pti on this query but since my threads generate so little passion, I thought of "going public" with it. In the US of A, we think nothing of serving goat cheese, Monterey Jack, Brie, etc before dinner and in Italy I've had very high grade Parmegiano and in Greece, feta, with cocktails. But I cannot recall once ever having had cheese in France before a meal, except served by Americans at New Year's Eve, etc. Tomorrow night I'm hosting a VIP eGullet veteran and her husband for an apero and as I was running through my head what to purchase, my thoughts turned to cheese. Back story: this kind lady hosted me and a passel of my French friends/colleagues for an incredible "real Canadian meal" of peameal bacon sandwiches, fiddleheads, wonderful butter tarts (from my childhood), Niagara and other red wines, fruit, salad and both Quebec and Ontario cheese, and I owe her one. Ever done? If so, what?

I would like to take the opportunity Pti has given us to start a new thread on the topic of how much slack do we give a place. The reference here had to do with Le Chateaubriand where Felice and Pti are willing to go back, despite its inconsistencies. I disagree, I ate there once – admittedly at lunch – and said “phooey” or something like that. As a sometime academic, let me test our members thusly: Yes/No A. I’m willing to go back to a restaurant that has served me one bad meal after I’ve had a half dozen good ones? B. I’m willing to go back to a restaurant where the three others had a good meal and mine was awful? C. I’m willing to go back to a restaurant where two of the three of us eating had awful dishes on each of three courses (so each of us had 1/3 a good meal)? D. I’m not willing to go back to a place that served me one bad meal, despite rave reviews from everybody else on the planet. E. I’m not willing to go back to a place where I had a great meal alone the first week/month it opened but when I took my charming wife and discerning friends back was not good – and I agreed. F. Everyone deserves a second break. Answers: up to you But in my case A.= Les Fables de la Fontaine and I did and I’m glad. B.= Amogenes and it was an error. C.= Auguste .330 is a great batting average but a lousy culinary one. D.= Le Chateaubriand E.= La Famille, Le Comptoir + l’Astrance F.= Le Repaire de Cartouche, Thierry Burlot + Villaret.

Thanks for the great report even though many of the places I like/liked got a bit trashed. But it seems to me that this sentence is tantalizing: Remember, we can all learn from your worst as well as your best experiences.

Nope, I'm always me without the bow-tie. But I'm usually eating with such a captivating-looking or schlumpily-dressed guest, who sees me? I think it's on topic to say that chefs or their staffs read eGullet; after I post a review and go back, I'm greeted by name and sometimes chefs say that the eGullet review has brought them custom. So we count. Caller ID is also used (at places like Cerisaie) and I make most reservations from my home (listed) phone. What spooks me is when I'm greeted, as at l'Arome, by someone who cannot possibly recall that he saw me two years ago at his former restaurant that I hated. The lesson, I think, is when you're a real critic, and want to maintain anonymity, you have someone else reserve or call from another phone and use a name that's easily remembered (I'm told here that that includes one middle name, brother's name or grandparents' family name.)

You'd be surprised whose pictures are posted in Parisian places. And it's rumored that our own Francois Simon, who supposedly avoids group dinners, awards ceremonies, etc so as to be completely anonymous, is known by his peers (natch) and chefs.A side comment/anecdote: a while back, I ate at l'Arome and was convinced that two grey guys (one with an identifiable tic, the other with an identifiable way of looking things over) were "Michelin men." A day later, Daniel Rose of Spring confirmed my hunch, saying they identified themselves to him. So much for anonymity.

The Week of May 21st, 2007 I missed picking up an article in Le Figaro last week by Gaëlle Rolin on vacation chocolates that are fresh and light and filled with fruit, available at the Maison du Chocolat. Monday in Le Fooding, Elvira Masson reviewed Le Grand Pan, 20 rue Rozenwald in the 15th, 01 42 50 02 50, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, lunch a la carte 28 but at dinner there are no entrees and the mains are about 46 € for two (like a cote de boeuf or pork) and desserts are 7. It was recently opened by Christian Etchebest, current chef at Le Troquet and his former second, Benoît Gauthier, and named after a 1964 Georges Brassens song. It serves things such as a cold creamy soup of white beans with balsamic and chorizo, veggies with pistou, saddle of lamb, “super” pork cheeks in red wine with sliced foie gras as well as a liter of Cahors at 13 €. Monday/Tuesday in A Nous Paris, they did a “Best Of The Year” list that included: Astier – 100% bistrot, 100% Parisian l’Orangerie Michel del Burgo – Return of the Great One Le Rich – Place your bets l’Ambre d’Or – East Parisian Gourmet Spring – Like home Taeko – Inexpensive Urbane – Instantly urban 35º Ouest – A good wind La Tradition – Gourmet Bistrot Tuesday, the WSJ’s “Off the Beaten Track” column suggested restaurants in Deauville/Trouville that included; Le Ciro’s, Le Café de Paris + La Moulerie. Tuesday, l’Express printed a special issue on wine. Wednesday, GoGo Paris positively reviewed Cheri bibi coordinates already given. Wednesday in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin reviewed and gave three hearts to Le Grand Pan, coordinates above, serving salmon/haddock tartare, cote de veau and rice pudding. Two hearts went to l’Ordonnance, in the 14th, coordinates also above, where he had a rabbit terrine and duck on mashed potatoes and goose foie gras. One heart each went to l’Agassin, coordinates given before, where he had a not in season soup of radish and morteau sausage, rascasse and plum clafoutis + Natasha, 17 bis, rue Campagne-Premiere in the 14th, 01.43.20.79.27, closed Sundays and Mondays with 19 and 26 € menus at lunch and a la carte 35-40 € for cheese and potato cake, hachis parmentier Natasha and old school feuillete of pigeon and spinch. A busted heart went to Louis 2 in the Hotel La Tremoille in the 8th where a pricey meal (50-70 €) consisted of vitello tomato, chicken breast and over-cooked lamb. Figaroscope’s “Dossier” this week covered places to go for a bite with an apero: The more recent ones Le 1515 Almodobar Bastide Blanche Cesar Kube Hotel Le Raj’ Urbietorbi Tarmac S’Agaro La Salumeria Blabla Several oldies Le Café du Pasaje Maison de la Catalogne Cave a l’Os a Moelle J’Go Bar Le Passage Andy Whaloo Da Rosa Les Voisins Wednesday, cutting to the chase Francois Simon’s Haché menu reviewed Ferdi, in the 1st – bottom line, “Don’t Go!” Wednesday, Richard Hesse in Paris Update discovered l’Ebauchoir in the 12th. Wednesday-Thursday in Le Monde, Jean Claude Ribaut wrote an article about Salvatore Tassa and Il Settimo, in the 7th. Friday, Jean Louis Galesne wrote about flavors in Istanbul. Saturday/Sunday, BP published an article by Margaret Kemp on Les Crayeres and one by John Talbott on "Simple, Good, Honest Food." In the weekend FT, Jancis Robinson comments positively on the 2005 French reds and 2006 French whites, now appearing in the markets. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

I had a chance to do takeout from the expanded, renovated, etc Tamber's, 3327 St Paul at 34th St, 410-243-5777. Huge portions for $8.95-14.95. I had the Lamb Saag and Shrimp Vindaloo with 4 Nan, which with two huge boxes or rice and two nice cups of raita came to just a bit over $30. I truly had enough for three persons and it was very good and very quick (10-15 min) and (for me) very local, thus convenient.

I have some small experience that mirrors Pti's where the lowest cost meal (eg "menu") was reimbursed for two persons with 15 E for all liquids. If you do the math you'll see it's hard for all folk like Pti to even break even, unless they also write an article for a monthly, do a radio or TV review or have some other source of income. Which, I think, is one reason why all the "big" boys and girls have multiple media and projects in play at any one time.And, getting back to Steven's point, in the US I'd posit that in France, there's just a "falloff."

Yes, indeed. Leo Fourneau aka Thierry Wolton, admits that he didn't go to all the places listed in the Elle Guide each year nor do others, for instance, he says that while

In my enquiry into French critics' habits as well as what they say in the books they're written, I was surprised to find that most go once (unlike the NYTimes folks, say) arguing that this more closely duplicates the average citizen's experience than going a half-dozen times before writing it up. I'm aware we're at the edge of the topic, so if this point generates a discussion that becomes too lengthy; I'll split it off.

Poppy sent me the coordinates that she thought might be helpful:

Oooh boy; as an outsider, not having living in Boston for 50 years (yes, it's my 50th), I found Jasper White's relatively new Summer Shack in Alewife to be but a wilted memory of the old Jasper. Our firsts of fried clams and salad were OK, but the halibut and salmon were disgraces to Boston and the lobster roll and shad roe wrapped in bacon, while somewhat tasty, were not up to standard. Next time, for industrial fish here, I'll do Legal.

Ahem. How about Chinese food in the area?John PS Yes, with your boyfriend's parents do the Cafe Atlantico, it's quite special, but for me selfishly, what Chinese is fun there?

Everyone knows by now that I'm a grouch, a contrarian and a misanthrope. Well, what's truly amazing is that I went there the first week it opened and loved it and brought back my food gang during the first month and we had a "train wreck" of a meal. So my dear friends, Pierre and Laidback, I've got to disagree. Maybe we all six should go together and vote.

I side with those who prefer green and lots of it. The nicest picnics we've had were at Vaux le Vicomte, high over the Seine en route to Giverny and in the forest of Fontainebleau. PS I just cheated a bit, I realize, seeing the title. Oh well.

The Week of May 14th, 2007 Monday, in Le Fooding Elvira Masson wrote about a new bookstore La Cocotte, 5 rue Paul Bert in the 11th that carries a lot of cookbooks. Tuesday, GoGoParis had an article about the new cookbook written by Rose Carrarini of Rose Bakery in the 9th – the English version is by Phaidon and called Breakfast, Lunch, Tea: The Many Little Meals of Rose Bakery $26.99; the French version released this week is by Relié and called Breakfast, Lunch, Tea: Rose Bakery 28.45 €. Also Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 blocks to l’Entrepot, 7-9, rue Francis de Pressense in the 14th, 01.45.40.07.50, menu 14.50 € for oeuf cocotte, veal liver and coffee éclairs in a setting that also contains a cinema, conference space, exhibitions and music. And, Jerome Berger gave 3/5 blocks to another film-type place, a wine bar, the Bar a Vins du Cinema des Cineastes, 7, ave de Clichy in the 17th, 01.53.42.40.34, closed Mondays and at lunch, where for about 20 € one gets Alleosse cheese, strawberries and a glass of wine before or after a film. Wednesday for the opening of the Cannes Film Festival, Francois Simon wrote an article saying that for two weeks, one’s head would be in even but one’s stomach in hell; that film and food didn’t make a good couple and that he awaited fall. Then, he and Alexandra Michot suggested restaurants there that included:Le Fouquet’s, Grand Hôtel, Sens, Felix, La Palme d’Or, Le Restaurant Arménien, L’Hôtel de Mougins, Jacques Maximin + La Trattoria Niçoise de Giuseppe. Two other box/articles by the same authors deal with fatal errors one can make in Cannes and eating snacks on private beaches. Also, Wednesday in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin reviewed the usual five places. He gave two hearts each to an Italian “snacking” place Bastide Blanche in the 8th and the traditional brasserie La Gitane, coordinates well known, which has recently been taken over and serves eggs mayo, steak/frites and baba for about 40-50 €. One heart each went to another Italian place La Salumeria in the 9th, a Thai place Suan Thai in the 4th and Café Medicis located in the Luxembourg Museum, 19 rue du Vaugirard in the 6th, 01.42.34.37.99 closed weekends, with 19 and 24 menus, a la carte 20-35 €, serving light fare such as tomatoes and mozzarella, club sandwiches with smoked salmon and crab raviolis. Figaroscope’s “Dossier” this week covered places serving steak and fries and ranked 25 thus (not all rankings are listed): 1. Le Voltaire 2. Severo 3. Unico 4. Bistrot Paul Bert 5. Chez Georges Les Gourmets des Ternes La Maison de l’Aubrac La Bourse ou la vie Meating Au Bœuf Coronne Le Relais de l’entrecote La Tour L Chez Savy Le Petit Vendome Cafe du Commerce Le Piece de bœuf Vin sobre Devez Le Roy Hippopotamus Le Galvacher L’Opportun Boucherie rouliere Le Louchebem 25. Buffalo Grill Francois Simon’s Haché menu reviewed Le Gavroche, in the 2nd where he said the price is too much because the food’s not good and advises we readers not to go. Wednesday-Thursday in Le Monde, Jean Claude Ribaut wrote an laudatory article about Gaël Orieux and Auguste, coordinates well known. Tuesday, l’Express printed its usual three reviews: François-Régis Gaudry reviewed La Reserve + La Tavola populare in Nice and Les Baccachanales in Tourrettes-sur-Loup. Vincent Noce, in Friday’s Liberation has an article on vegetable ingrediented patisseries, giving as examples: Pierre Herme’s cake with tomatoes and mascarpone with black olives, Arpege’s macaroons with carrots or turnips and a series of new desserts made with petits pois, leeks, parsnips or new garlic, Pierre Gagnaire’s artichoke pralines, Le Grand Vefour’s mille-feuille of strawberries, tomatoes and herbs and thistled Italianate things – well the list goes on with dishes such as avocado soufflés and uses of peppers, eggplant, Jerusalem artichokes, etc. Saturday, in Francois Simon’s Croque Notes he discussed Issautier in Saint-Martin-du-Var near Nice. And Alexandra Michot in Figaro Madame wrote of Jouni Tormanen at the Réserve and Mauro Colagreco at the Mirazur. Saturday/Sunday, BP published an article by Margaret Kemp on Where the chefs eat in Cannes and one by John Talbott on "Stealing Food." Edited 20 minutes later by John Talbott to include A Nous Paris paragraph. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Yes, and the rent. Much as I love the owners, it is over-priced.

This week in Paris Voice Laura Van Iterson has a description of picnic places that includes: the banks of the Seine, the Ile de la Cité, the western tip of Ile Saint Louis, the Pont des Arts, the Canal Saint-Martin, the Parc Montsouris, Parc des Buttes-Chaumont and the Bois de Vincennes - Parc Floral.