John Talbott

Hosts' Note Happy New Year! We want to take this moment to thank all our loyal members/readers/posters to the France Forum for all your hard work last year and welcome everyone to contribute more in 2008. You'll hear more about this later, but all the Regional Forums are undergoing some improvements and you may see topics temporarily disappear. Fear not, they're not lost, just in limbo. If you need one or more restored, please notify John Talbott who will get on it ASAP. Again, thanks for last year and welcome to the next exciting year. John and Phyllis

I thought I'd hear from you on this one.Well, my dentist food buddy and I went in November and had an off-putting meal; I didn't take notes unfortunately; I guess the product was OK, but it paled in comparison with Ze for an innovative Asian-influenced meal, which we ate at 5 days later.

I don’t know if this is an accurate observation or not but it strikes me after reading a panning post of a much anticipated meal at Taillevent and a glorious review of the same restaurant a year before on another topic, that critics and posters often publish reviews that are either laudatory or panning, but rarely say that a meal was average, OK or mediocre but not bad. A query: is it harder to compose, are we worked up over really bad or socko meals, are we simply less interested in passing on OK news, or are there other explanations?

You'll be sorely missed, John, thanks for all the work and friendship. John

For an update on Ghislaine Arabian, see here.

Wednesday, December 19th Figaroscope's "best of" suppliment had the following update from Emmanuel Rubin: Ghislane Arabian will be opening a place in the Petites Sorcieres space, 12, rue Liancourt in the 14th, sometime in 2008.

Wednesday, December 19th Figaroscope's "best of" suppliment had a list of 12 forthcoming events written by Emmanuel Rubin, the: Jules Vernes reopened by Ducasse at the Eiffel Tower, Trianon Palace reopening, Ghislane Arabian opening a place in the Petites Sorcieres space, 12, rue Liancourt in the 14th, Le Meurice has new Starck finery Les Kekes, a new bistro opening on the quai des Orfevres, Le Palace, in the 9th (rue du Faubourg Montmartre), closed for 10 years, reopening under an exGagnaire, l'Arbuci, the mythic brasserie, rue de Buci in the 6th, reopening under Thierry Costes, Le Restaurant Fauchon opening, Soleil Levant, rue Durantin in the 18th, reopening under a "great Japanese chef," Oth Sombath, in the 8th, opening with an exBlue Elephant Thai chef, Royal Monceau after a Starck lift, reopening two restos ( one French, one Italian), and several murmurings - Yannick Alleno will consult on a new place in the Opera Garnier, Hisayuki Takeuchi will open a bar in the 8th, the Costes will redo the Apparat space and the Vincennes Zoo will open a panoramic restaurant at/on the big rock (If you've been there, you'll remember it).

The Week of December 17th, 2007 Monday in Le Fooding Elvira Masson wrote about rouget and where she’s had them in November - Spring and December – Chateaubriand, La Gazzetta + Ze Kitchen Galerie and how. Tuesday, A Nous Paris’s Jerome Berger gave 3/5 blocks to Le Clocher Pereire, coordinates given before, where he liked the milk-fed pig and cold armagnac soufflé; while Philippe Toinard reviewed and gave 2/5 to the jazz-infused place Nouvelle Athenes, coordinates given before, where he didn’t eat well, especially a jelly-quivering veal liver and a tartare of fennel with shrimp, scallops and segments of mandarin oranges. Wednesday, GoGo Paris had an article on Alexandre Cammas’ (Le Fooding etc.), favorite “hangouts: Le Comptoir Du Relais, L’avant Gout, Le Verre Vole, Hotel Crillon + Refectoire. Wednesday, as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update positively reviewed Ribouldingue, as well as commenting on Jacques Melac’s long history of having his wine bistro no smoking. Wednesday, too, the Figaroscope gang (no website link; hard copy courtesy of Phyllis/Felice) awarded their “best of’s” in this annual end of the year tradition. This year there were 20, as follows: Le Grand Pan best bistonomic Le Saut du Loup best cafeteria Breizh Café best creperie Rech best comeback Mini-Palais best 8th Arr. Coco & Co best monomaniacal Floors best post-adolescent Il Vino best wine, wine, wine Salon de Pantheon best place to see and be seen Afaria best surprise Les Cocottes best counter food Le P’tit Casier lucky catch Le Pre Catalan the best high class Lup best at night l’Epigramme best good price/good taste Les Racines best wine bar Café Pleyel best quirky place J’Go Saint Germain best terroir Le Gorgeon slightly outside Salon de the Bonpoint best chabada/shopping They also gave their favorite oyster places: l’Huitrier, Garnier, l’Ecaliler du Bistrot, Huitrerie Regis + Le Chasse-Maree, bistronomic places: Chez l’Ami Jean, Beurre Noisette, l’Ourcine, La Regalade, Unico + Le Cameleon, chocolate bars: Bar a chocolat Mauboussin, Jean Paul Hevin, Le Chocolat Lounge du Stade de France, Agelina + Café Lenotre + Laduree, night places: Café Burq, Le Lup, La Grade Armee, Brasserie Publicisdrugstore + Le Café Café Passage as well as chic dinettes: Fauchon, Un jour de Peyrassol, Da Rosa, Rose Bakery, Bellota, Bellota, Bread & Roses + Caviar Kaspia. Finally, Francois Simon in his ”Hache Menu” went to the Nouvelle Athenes, coordinates given before, where he eschewed the 35 € menu for a 129.80 € for two to eat the exRobuchon chef’s civet of hare in black sausage and steak tartare of duck with oysters. Should one go? Yes towards 10 PM and take the gastronomic menu not the little one and avoid earlier hours. Figaroscope’s “Dossier” this week concerned marrons glaces, rating them 1-25. Topping the list were: A la Mere de la Famille Pierre Marconi Gault-Millau Maison du Chocolat Clement Faugier Jean-Paul Hevin Dalloyau Carton Pierre Herme At # 12 were Arnaud Lahrer + Gerard Mulot; # 15 Fauchon, Hediard, Laduree + Christian Constant; # 21 Le Notre. Jean Claude Ribault in this Wednesday-Thursday’s Le Monde wrote a essay about the year 2007 bemoaning the dominance of Spanish over French cuisine, the Michelin’s awarding more stars to Tokyo than Paris, the treatment of vegetables as fruit and vice-versa, farm-raised grain-fed fish and on and on. Friday in Liberation Sibylle Vincendon wrote an article on everything one needs to know about turkey for Christmas. Saturday-Sunday in Le Figaro, Francois Simon devoted his Croque Notes piece to the plight of Helene Darroze, feted one moment as “Chef of the Year” and condemned the next for disappointing meals, high prices and a haughty welcome. (PS he says he had a nice meal though.) Saturday/Sunday, John Talbott had an essay on “Can charm overcome bad?” and Margaret Kemp one on Chez Cecile. January’s Travel & Leisure recommended Jean-Paul Jeunet in Arbois (Jura). Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

I suspect I was not sufficiently precise in my first post; I was pondering whether or not there was a shift towards larger portion sizes, a la Americain, since this week we had observed several desserts that were listed for one but could easily feed two or three. This is different from, say, the dish of ris au lait at l'Ebauchoir, where one helps oneself, or equally, the terrine at so many bistros, Le Regalade springs to mind, or herring, etc. I agree with Doc that portion size is not the sole contributor to American supersizes and certainly that lifestyle, maternal health (the Barker phenomenon) and genes (the anti-Barkerists) are important; but I am always taken aback when ordering my first meal back in the States by (1) the size of portions and the (2) impossibility (for me at least) of ordering or consuming three courses, as one does routinely in France. Again, in line with Doc's comments, I noticed or it suddenly struck me this morning when out on my run (or limp), how while there are lots of new Vélib’s, there are now also at least four new corners on my route full of scooters and motos where in years past, there were just a few bikes.

While some restos have a reputation for some supersized desserts, for example Rech's XL eclair or La Table Lauriston's baba geant, this week we've seen two other places deliver huge dessert portions; specifically La Maree Denfert's "baba for two or more" (more like 8 I'd venture) and Vaudeville's oeufs a la neige for two or three. Question: Are portion sizes increasing?, refuting my repeated statements that one reason the French don't look like superized Americans is sensible portion size.

I hesitate to take issue with a post by our former leader, Robert Buxbaum, who can no longer reply, but I'd heard several positive comments about Vaudeville over the past few months that prompted us to go for New Year's Eve lunch when little else is functioning. It was terribly disappointing. First the amuse-gueules of tiny snails never were delivered and the bread was blah. I had the menu with a parsleyed ham (alright), tasteless confit de canard (that I make better probably because the product is more expensive) with a ton of non-garlicky, non-tasty potato balls and a floating island that was enough for 3 persons; Colette finished half her salmon which she described as not good product. As Bux said, all the products for the Flo Group are purchased centrally, but we've had better at other of their places. Our bill = 86.40 E.Go back? Unh unh. Rating 1.0

To the contrary, I wish more folks would relate their disastrous experiences - yours is the very model of moderation, detail and reason. I am stereotyping and overgeneralizing here but I think French restos sometimes will not make a fuss about such events, I'm not sure why but I'm not sure it was personal. Except for that it certainly sounds like a minus-star meal. Sorry you had to endure it but perhaps your warning will save other members from having a similar experience.

I've only seen one list of the Best 10 and that was in Optimum (Figaroscope's Best are in 6-month chunks) and consisted of: La Reserve in Nice Le Meurice Rech Le Grand Pan in Paris Unami in Strasbourg Le Pre Catalan in Paris Le 1947 in Courcheval Il Vino in Paris Since no one else has started a topic on "Best of 2007," I've gotten over my bashfulness and I'll throw out my 10 - sort of in order: Le Clocher Pereire Rech l'Epigramme l'Entetee Afaria Le Grand Pan Cafe Breizh l'Oxalis Villa Corse Rive Droite Spring for its lunch now But very close behind are Garance + le Cafe qui Parle. To add a new category, here are the Golden Oldies: Ze Kitchen Galerie l'Ecallier du Bistrot Fables de la Fontaine Repaire de Cartouche Au Gourmand Le Mediterranee Spring for dinner And a final group - those we loved but are now dropped off the list: Thierry Burlot Villaret Bon Acceuil Les Bouquinistes Le Table d'Anvers Chez Rene Le Moulin de la Galette Carte Blanche La Marlotte Happy New Year all!

Thanks Sharon. Fish..... and their wine store, La Dernière Goutte at 6 rue Bourbon le Château, are certainly worth going to. But your post raises a point I frequently bring up. One can get from the 5th to the 6th in minutes, indeed, except for the far reaches of the 16th, almost any place is easily reached by Metro or bus in minutes.

I'd like to suggest three rules to guide you and me when looking for places to eat in any holiday season: 1. Choose either old hotel restaurants or brasseries that are open respectively for their guests or because brasseries never sleep. 2. Or new places - recall that Flora was open that first August and l'Epigramme, Clocher Pereire + l'Oxylis - all splendid new restos - are open now. 3. Telephone, telephone, telephone, their answering machines will tell you and more and more, places have websites with such info (the Minitel cuffs are coming off).

How about soup a volonté for 12 € and a 3-course menu (day or night) for 20 €, with a glass of wine for 6 €? (Pssst: the chef trained with Roland Durans at Passiflore and this place is "unknown" and about to go to the bigtime - trust me, the big boys will descend soon and then we're talking Benoit prices.) But for now, send your backpacking nephews and nieces immediately to L’Entêtée, 4, rue Danville in the 14th, 01.40.47.56.81, closed Sundays and Mondays. Great grub! Sorry Margaret, Gary, et al., that I destroyed this "secret place." And for old folks the 30 € menu-carte ain't bad. 2nd most inventive cooking of the Fall/Winter. My full review/report will be posted Jan 7 or thereabout.

How about this for New Years Eve - 120 E for risotto with lobstah and truffles, carpaccio of scallops with (you've got it) truffles on an oyster mousse, with white wine; a female deer nugget a la Rossini, and (oh Gosh - truffled) brie and other cheeses with a red; a runny biscuit with Clementines with sherbet and a dessert wine. You heard it here first - Le Clocher Pereire is the great undiscovered place in Paris in 2007 and please, don't use my name to get reservations - they know me. Disclosure: no comps, price today was truly 77 E for two with coffee but no bottled water.

I'm sometimes accused of "ruining" places by spilling the beans/revealing secrets/etc., but have I gotta deal for you and do they deserve all the credit they've gotten so far. How about a one-star (should be - once they get more flowers and Anglo-Asiatic customers and chase the locals out) meal for 17 €? Today it was a terrine of fish, bar with haricots and if I'm not mistaken, a huge portion of mashed potatoes and a tarte du jour (today it looked like apples or pears). However, for non-back-packers - look at this - today Colette and I had the 29 € menu, which served up one of the most inventive meals of my last three here at Le Clocher Periere, for coordinates and prior meals please see here and here. Rare raw and cooked urchins, incredible veggie risotto, lievre with its liver, divine scallops, Ossau-Iraty cheese and an over the top moelleux of chocolate, plus coffee = 77 €.

My charming co-host Felice/Phyllis has spoken well of La Café de la Nouvelle Mairie, "a very nice wine bar overlooking the place de l’Estrapade" and I have noted elsewhere that there’s le Panta-gruel, 26, rue Berthollet, 01.47.07.09.85. I also am aware of the Au Soleil d’Austerlitz + Le Vin Sobre. Please report back. I'm not sure about the English part though. Good hunting!

An update on both: Thierry Burlot has not only bumped up the prices (again) and is "out of" the reasonably priced wines still listed on the wine list, but the decor looks really shabby, so much so that I wrote an essay for Bonjour Paris recently wondering if he was really in trouble. In addition, I continue to hear mixed reports about the Bastide Odeon, so much so I'm worried about its future as well. Does anyone know if, when Gilles Ajuelos co-revived La Marlotte, (where I had an awful meal), he lost interest in the B.O.? Maybe I'd better drop by after the New Year and see what's up. Addendum 30 Dec 07: I went by today and everything looked normal.

January's Gourmet has a "Choptalk Highlight" from Alexander Lobrano explaining why Bordier butter is so popular now, largely because it's made the "old-fashioned" way. Wednesday, Elaine Sciolino had an article in the NYT + IHT entitled "A Tempest in a Champagne Flute" about the extension of the champagne designation (already reported in the French press.)

This weekend's FT had a very nice article on Vino Volo.

This from the Oct 29 New York Magazine regarding female chefs in New York and Paris, entitled A Woman’s Place? Precious few women run New York kitchens. We asked seven prominent exceptions to tell us why: {New York Interviewer}: Professional kitchens are traditionally shamelessly sexist. Is that still true? AG {Alex Guarnaschelli of Butter)}: I worked in Paris for five years for Guy Savoy. And then one of the chefs was like, “You suck, you’re a girl, I hate you.” All the classic stereotypes. And Guy Savoy was like, “Will you just stop that crap and let her do her job? Let her cook the damn bass.” And then when I burned it, Guy was like, “Ahh!” But he still believed in me.

A few days ago, someone asked me if there was much to do on the Ile St-Louis; well Seth Sherwood overheard and published a piece in today's NYT called "Down Sybarites Alley," that included Jean-Paul Gardil's butcher shop (esp for Parma ham on the bone), La Petite Scierie for duck products, La Ferme St-Aubin for cheese, L'Epicerie for mustard, jam and such and Cacao et Chocolat for chocolate.

Back in the '60's when our foursome started taking food seriously, we were surprised at the number of meals, many at places (such as Bras) much mentioned here, that were U-shaped: great first and dessert, sagging main. If memory serves me, we chalked it up to the youth and daring of the chef(s) at the first and last stations versus the maturity (read stodginess) of the heart of the brigade. Last night we ate out with a couple we'd never eaten with before and the moment menus were distributed we almost simultaneously declared that we were going to order two firsts each and no main.