John Talbott

The Week of January 14th, 2008 Monday, in Le Fooding, Elvira Masson talked about her favorite charcutier (Gilles Vérot) on TV TF1 (Sunday Jan 20), in Paris (3 rue Notre-Dame des Champs in the 6th and 7 rue Lecourbe in the 15th) and New York (at Bar Boulud). Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger awarded 4/5 blocks to La Bigarrade, 106, rue Nollet in the 17th 01.42.26.01.02, formulas at lunch 35 + 45, dinner 45 + 55 €, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, serving raw encornets with sweet almond and cod with pumpkin puree as well as fresh cheese mousse; meanwhile Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 to La Bulle, 48, rue Louis Blanc in the 10th 01.40.37.34.51, menus at 25 and 30 €, closed Saturday lunch, Sundays and Monday night, where this safe harbor around the Gare de l’Est serves 5 big scallops with chestnuts, ostrich, risotto with cepes and rhubarb crumble. In the sidebar they talk of Jewish cooking lessons at Alef-Bet 25, rue Galande in the 5th, 01.40.18.17.22; a new fish place in the 1st with reasonable prices (23, 35 & 50 €), Les Embruns, 4, rue Sauval, 01.40.26.08.07, and the previously mentioned Quai Quai on the Ile de la Cite run by the group that has opened l’Altro + Lei. Wednesday, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed l’Oxilis, coordinates given before, where he liked the food but not the décor. Wednesday, in Figaroscope’s “C’est nouveau” Emmanuel Rubin awarded 2/5 hearts to Quai-Quai, coordinates given before, with 17 and 21.50 formulas at lunch and 30-40 € a la carte, oeufs mayo, risotto with sorrel and spinach and a Clementine soufflé. Then came 4 one-hearters: the bobo Brit Food and Beverage, 14, rue Charlot in the 3rd, 01.42.78.02.31, closed Sundays for ravioli and entrecote costing about 35, menus at 27 and 32 €; La Cadole, 1, rue Mayet in the 6th, 01.47.83.70.05, closed Saturday and Sunday, with menus at 24 and 32 € for langoustine raviolis and boeuf bourguignon; the Japanese Hide in the 17th {CORRECTION, it's not Japanese at all but the Japanese chef cooks "traditional French cuisine}: and Misia, 5-7, rue du Commandant-Riviere in the 8th, 01.42.56.38.74, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, with lunch formulas at 17 and 19 and menus at 25 and 32 € for sautéed petoncles and shrimp in curry, lamb with mashed potatoes and a marquise of chocolate. This week’s “Dossier” was all about garlic: Entrees Jellyfish salad at Les Delices du Shandong Snails with parsley at Toustem Snails at l’Escargot Montorgueil Palourdes at O Beirao Octopus salad at Le Comptoir du Relais Piquillos at Rosimar Steamed vegetables with aioli at Vapeur Gourmande Garlic soup at Brespail Fish Bourride at Le Sud Cod with aioli at Fontaine de Mars Brandade of cod at Le Soleil Meat Roast lamb at Le Basilac Duck pie at Afaria Sauteed beef at Kokohana Pasta Rigatoni at Corso. For his part, Francois Simon went to La Marlotte for a brandade and dessert for 113.50 € with splitting the entrée and a Crozes-Hermitage. He says go. I say no. Wednesday-Thursday, Jean Claude Ribaut had an article in Le Monde on the catering firm Potel et Chabot, in business since 1820. Thursday, Philippe Couderc of NouvelObs also reviewed Ghislane Arabian and awarded it 15/20 for price quality. He also went back to Tante Marguerite where he found a menu-carte to be 47 € and rated it 14/20. Finally, he too visited Bigarrade awarding it 13-14/20 for good product and nice cooking. Saturday, Francois Simon in Le Figaro, had a “Croque Notes” piece on Bigarrade, titling it “Yummy” and calling the menu at 45 € brilliant. Saturday-Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote an article on Murtoli in Southern Corsica and John Talbott an essay on “Surf & Turf.” Edited to correct the statement that Hide was Japanese. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Francois Simon and Alexandra Michot, in an article published Jan 12th but only seen by me today listed 12 coups for 2008. 1. The return of G. Arabian. 2. Decorators remaking places - le Meurice, Jules Verne + Pre Catalan. 3. Pierre Gagnaire and Enrico Bernardo open restos in Courchevel. 4. Didier Elena redoes the stables of the chateau. 5. Herme opens a third boutique and Philippe Conticini a "micro-boutique." 6. Chefs are picking up the trend to use yuzu. 7. Gordon Ramsay will take over Les Trois Marches soon. 8. Fauchon will finally open its new resto. 9. Michel & Marie-Pierre Troisgros will open their ecological inn in the Brionnais. 10. Marc Veyrat is recovering from his bad ski injury and will add a new address in Manigold and a new fast-food concept in Paris. 11. The Omnivore food festival will be held in Deauville 11-12 Feb. 12. The ever-expanding Costes empire now covers l'Arbucci, Chez Julian, Bar Rouge and soon others.

Yesterday, Francois Simon wrote that Maximin was closed and listed all the fine chefs he (at 60) has trained and where they now are.

Last Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, in the sidebar, their critics talk of Jewish cooking lessons at Alef-Bet a deli-Jewish product store at 25, rue Galande in the 5th, 01.40.18.17.22.

Last Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, in the sidebar, they talk of Jewish cooking lessons at Alef-Bet a deli-Jewish product store at 25, rue Galande in the 5th, 01.40.18.17.22.

Really, the last time I went they were offering one hot dish (at lunch) and typical cheese & sausage boards. Wonder what happened?

Frank Prial, longtime wine critic for the NYT in yesterday's edition, wrote an absolutely charming remembrance of his "wine-tasting trip" with M. Vrinat many years ago. It's on line free now.

Quick update: as you know from the Digest it has reopened and been reviewed and I'll report next month on it.

Just an a note to update this old thread and indicate its under new management and cooking. Others have not had as positive an experience as I.

A member/friend in Paris after 3 months absence asked me today if I'd noticed that Monday was the new Sunday, that is that a lot of places were now open on Saturday but closed Monday as opposed to the reverse ten years ago. Indeed, I had noticed and was aware that my list of 23 new places to try has only two open on Mondays.

And then there was one. Update, only the rue Terrace in the 17th still cranks along. There's a story there, I just don't know it.

There's a regular (non-bio) market on Edgar-Quintet that has a lot of clothes too (some nifty real Chinese). From VivreManger Edgar-Quinet Market Bd E. Quinet. Wednesday, 7 a.m. to 2.30 p.m., Saturday 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Metro : Edgar-Quinet I may get in trouble with Sharon for my definition of "small" but both Cerisaie + Bistro du Dome are very near and good and one can have individual dishes.

Great topic. Us too. Off the top of my head - ideal are Afaria's Tapas Table, Pinxo + Les Papilles.

I have been doing some housekeeping on the Forum and came across this very old topic but thought I should reply even though I'm a lot of days late and quite a few dollars short. CC was one of my very favorite places in Paris for several years in the old Rue de Provence locale. It was perfect for lunch before catching the bus to CdeG for planes to other parts on the continent. I loved her genuine bistro food, her husband's wine and her prices. When she moved, however, I sensed a shift and even though I went only twice, the kitchen and front room staff had doubled as had the covers, the food was no longer so bourgeois and the prices reflected the upscaling. I was and am sad by this change. It was truly a gem in the rough that unfortunately was now a Hope diamond.

The Week of January 7th, 2008 Monday, in Le Fooding, Elvira Masson & Alexandre Cammas reviewed Ghislaine Arabian’s new place Les Petites Sorcières – Ghislaine Arabian, 12, rue Liancourt in the 14th, 01 43 21 95 68, closed Sundays and Mondays, serving such northern fare as cod doused in beer, grey shrimp, leeks with chive cream, true fries and scallops – main dishes are 20-24 €. Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard awarded 3/5 blocks to Coco & Co in the 6th and M comme Martine in the 17th. {Both are hardly new so I won’t repeat what others have noted but say that I found M charming.} Tuesday as well, François-Régis Gaudry reviewed the Philippe Starkized Le Dali at the Meurice, coordinates below, where Yannick Alleno has proposed a lighter fare than in the main room, and there are dishes on the left marked light (such as osciere caviar, but which are not light in price) and on the right 100% flavorful (such as leek and potato soup); he also mentions a miso-ginger consommé of beef, linguini with squid ink and palourdes, pasta with clams and a pear financier. His colleague, Katell Pouliquen, reviewed the Senegalese Chez Blondin in the exLe Jardin des pâtes space in the 13th. Wednesday, in Figaroscope’s “C’est nouveau” Emmanuel Rubin awarded 4/5 hearts to the Ducassian-renovated Jules Verne, Pilier Sud, Eiffel Tower, in the 7th, 01.45.55.61.44, open everyday, with menus at 75 (lunch), 150, 155 and 190 € for lobster, tournedos, pommes soufflées, etc; 3/5 hearts to the snob dinette in the Meurice, Le Dali, 228, rue de Rivoli in the 1st, 01.44.58.10.10, serving up langoustine raviolis, sole with shellfish and a sacher torte for about 100 €. Then came 3 one hearters: the Asian-sounding Moonsoon in the 9th, costing only 8-15 € depending on your non-appetite; the eclectic Kenze, 4, rue de Bargue in the 15th, 01.43.06.37.19, closed Sundays, serving everything from couscous to magret, foie gras to tajines and North African piperade to beet tartare for about 25-30 €, menus at 14.50 (lunch) and 30 (dinner); and the Italianate trattoria-pizzeria Pomodoro in the 18th. This week’s “Dossier” was titled “10 Restaurants to rediscover,” for different reasons: The décor: the room at Chartier, the aquariums at the Dragons Elysees and Ozu. The view: Dans le Noir, the panoramas at le Ciel de Paris, le Georges, le Jules Verne + Le Tour d’Argent. The art and manner: the aligot at l’Ambassade d’Auverge, the cocktails at La Famille, molecular cuisine at Lena & Mimile, the barman at N’importe quoi and the crepes at l’Auberge Bressane. The ambiance: at La Coupole. For his part, Francois Simon went to the Japanese Benkay with fresh products from all over where the bill was about 50 €. Wednesday as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed the revived Au Bascou, coordinates given before, where the group had an outstanding meal. Thursday, Philippe Couderc of NouvelObs also reviewed Le Dali and awarded it 14/20 for food and 13-14/20 for price quality. Friday, Francois Simon in Le Figaro, had an article on Trish Deseine, an Irish “queen of cookbooks,” {several of which are published in French & Spanish.} Saturday-Sunday in the FT weekend edition, Jancis Robinson rethinks her dislike of white Rhones. Saturday-Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret wrote an article on Umu in London and John Talbott an essay on “Slow Food in France.” In the Sunday NYT Travel Section, Christine Muhlke wrote about the “Basque country modern” Afaria, coordinates well-known {which according to some of our members means one will no longer be able to easily reserve}, and suggested if you cannot get in you should go to the “up and coming” Beurre Noisette {up and coming for about a decade, I’d guess.} Poliane has set up a bar-food place next door at 8, rue du Cherche-Midi in the 6th, 01.45.48.45.69 and GoGoParis’s Francesca Unsworth, reviewed it saying their tartines with everything from foie gras to sardines and wine were good. The formula at lunch is 12.50 €. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

L’Internaute suggests 20 restaurants to try in 2008 that include one by Gordon Ramsey in the Trianon Palace, Dutournier in Marly and an offshoot of l’Os a Moelle in Chatillon. Wednesday-Thursday, in Le Monde, Jean Claude Ribaut reviewed several business lunch places that have changed their skin: Le Dali presenting the mix of dishes mentioned in the Digest for 60 euros in 1 hour, the Astor, a 38 euro 45-minute formula, the Bar W, moved to the 8th floor during work, serving a 1-hour 40 euro meal, Market, a 7-8 PM 45 euro formula and Mori Venice Bar, 55 euros, perhaps served in an hour.

Web Radio du Gout had a piece on what country’s citizens consume fast food: not surprisingly, of those surveyed, the Anglo-Saxon countries (US & UK) came out on top (or bottom as it may be) and France was the most resistant nation. They also noted that Jacques Le Divellac and Father Alain Moraindais have published a book with the catchy title of “Eating with Jesus, Moses and Mohammed,” Solar editions, 22 €. And this news: Michelin will start publishing a gastronomic magazine, available in kiosks {? How often?} Also, Anne-Sophie Pic, 3-stars already, was awarded a “Golden Woman” award. And finally, there’s an inquiry afoot to see if Beaujolais producers have been over-sugaring their wines.

In Sunday's NYT December 30th, 2007, Nicholas Kulish recommends on Budapest's Kiraly St in District VII, Koleves, Bobek + Szoda a restaurant, hot chocolate and bar, respectively.

Today's Le Monde had an obit/tribute by Jean Claude Ribaut.

I’d endorse Acadia, not too far from the Medical School, which five of ate at last night with great satisfaction. I loved the very spicy crayfish bisque and raw inside/toasted outside big scallop appetizers, with salad dressed with another spicy sauce. My hosts loved their fish and other salads. The wine list is pretty big and eclectic; the Spanish Tempranillo we had was just right. I also had a nice luncheon at Bossa Nova, a Brazilian place also near the Medical School, where I loved the Salpicaõ (chicken) on rice and Pão de Queijo’s (Cheese Bread Rolls.) Both meals were paid for by my hosts so I cannot supply numbers.

Monday's Le Fooding had the first review I've seen.

I'm not so sure; we arrived at Chez Daguin totally unknown (this was in 1985, before I was famous) and had one incredible all duck meal, a nice stay in the Hotel and a panorama of confitures in the morning that was unforgetable. BTW we were kind of young too (well, at least callow). This was all before the success of Ariane and his son, who at that point was back from DC and cooking alongside Papa.

Off the top of my head - Cinq Mars, Baratin & Les Papilles, all in Paris, come to mind, although the latter, like Chapeau Melon, Racines, etc are more like glorified wine bars.

We've had two so far; one from a no-place place but it had the coolest feve (a froggie person) and #2 from Laduree that was good and had an ancient musical instrument feve.

Jan 08: L’Entêtée, Le Doudingue, La Maree Denfert, Garance And a lotta golden oldies. 7.5 L’Entêtée, 4, rue Danville in the 14th, 01.40.47.56.81, closed Sundays and Mondays, has a cool website, a 30 year old chef, Julie Ferrault, who trained with Roland Durans of Passiflore, delivered a baby about two months ago (without stopping work) and presents a 12 € soup a volonté, a 30 € menu-carte at both lunch and dinner and a 20 € menu for 3-courses with no choices - but I ordered it anyway since it sounded superb: a cappuccino (soup) of champetre mushrooms with a creamy greenish garlic sauce on top, nicely undercooked biche with a smoky sauce and a fondant of chocolate that was every bit as good as Colette’s negresse en chemise (the politically-incorrect name given to this recipe by my “French Mother” who made it for me, long ago, when I lived with her family while on the Experiment in International Living) ; and just to keep this run-on sentence running, Colette had a great meal as well – with a “tarte tatin” of endives with goat cheese, farm-chicken tenders with a coriander sauce and rice (ris au lait) made with coconut milk and an apple tart with a “mousse” of caramel of salted butter. Wow. Can I say more; this is 2008’s Spring, Clocher Pereire, l’Epigramme or Afaria – run don’t walk. Cost, 80 €. Should one go? Definitely A local, nothing more, nothing less. 2.1 Le Doudingue, 24, rue Durantin in the 18th, 01.42.54.88.08, open everyday for dinner and also Sundays for lunch and dinner, is a place that restoaparis, a quirky web-site speaking to young, middle-class (whoops, there are no classes here), branché folk loves, saying that since its opening in 2002, it’s increasingly gained boosters. Tonight was no exception - it was full to the rafters – for a place with 23 and 25 € menus, a lot with 4 € supplements, it takes reservations like Gagnaire, with good reason, there are only 24 or so covers and many are slouching seats in the bar area (but now, of course, they have to exit to smoke, ahhhhh, no comment.) Anyway, Colette and I went on our traditional send-off for her last night – the rules being – walking-distance, reasonably-reviewed, interesting-sounding, not too pricey and not too heavy, having had a good lunch. She started off with a flavor-less, vegetarian lasagna too heavily covered with cheese and progressed to a so-called risotto with pears, aka, rice pudding, which on her scale of 1-10 (10 being l’Ebauchoir and 1 being Library-paste) was a 5. She loved the PerleNoire Corsican wine though. Me, I had only magret de canard slices (perfectly done; ie, burned on the outside, raw on the inside, as ordered) interspersed with pineapple slices and accompanied by half-nice half-crisp/half-soggy sweet potato “chips.” The bill was 66.50 € (no comps, etc). Welcome, service, etc was impecable. The verdict: If you’re looking for “the” place in Montmartre, this is it; for geezers, tho’, the din of music and wish for the megots of yesterday are too much. Not our cup of sea. 2.0 La Maree Denfert, 83 ave Denfert Rochereau in the 14th, 01.43.54.99.86, open 7/7, sister of La Maree Passy, where I’ve eaten well but Colette has not, is red all over and at least on this Sunday had horrific hip-hop music blaring from the apartment above drowning out their sound system. It’s less crowded than La Maree Passy, but has much the same menu. The salmon rillettes amuse-gueule was wonderful as was Colette’s generous portion of roasted langoustines. But from that point it was downhill all the way; our other two firsts were “odd-tasting,” a scallop, celery and chestnut soup and great fried giant gambas marred by a strange tandoori batter; my main, a turbotin, was simply bad product and the crepes suzettes were nul. Two dishes were so hot one could not eat them until a 10 minute wait, the service was amateurish (not clearing the knife with the amuse-gueule, scraping the fish bones and uneaten food from one plate to another at tableside and forgetting our coffee order), plus the paper towel in the toilet was of so cheap a quality that you couldn’t pull out a complete sheet. The bill = 90 €. Should one go? If you don’t trust me, yes. Colette has urged me to update Garance, coordinates given in my review, in the 11th, where we had another meal with excellent product (tempura of squid, scallops, veal liver, mesclun and fresh winter veggies), good wine and reasonable prices plus a new digestif (for me) Manzana Verde (green apple). Cost for two = 77 € (no comps etc.)