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ned

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Everything posted by ned

  1. I'm sure the new restaurant will be great. I just assumed Sette Moma would return. Sad to hear that it is gone for good. Had at least a few wonderful late afternoon lunches there.
  2. ned

    Bone Marrow

    Thanks for all the fabulous replies. Makes me wonder now what sort of reciprocal relationship fat and blood have. I was at Prune by the way, SobaAddict70 and I want to go back again tomorrow and the next day and the next day and. . . maybe there's a limit to how many junipero martinis a guy can drink. There are lots of great uses for bone marrow. I've used it in a tart with vidalias, another time with leeks. It can be part of a sauce for a rib chop, at Strip House for example. Get all the marrow out, mash it with the roasted garlic using the back of a fork then smear the paste on top of their excellent rib chop. (Take two to four bites, feel as if on spirit plane, then feel heart rate accelerate alarmingly and ask to take rest home in doggy bag).
  3. ned

    Bone Marrow

    Around lunchtime yesterday a friend and I shared a fabulous dish of bone marrow, parsley salad, cornichons and shallots, served with thick, charred country bread. The fellow with whom I was sharing the dish said he thought that marrow was fat. I feel pretty sure it's something different, I mean if it's fat then our bones have fat running through the middle and a bone marrow transplant is just a fat transplant. How can that be? Does anybody know what the heck bone marrow is actually?
  4. Nice photos Pan. I've enjoyed Yeah Shanghai 4 or five times now on your recommendation. Thanks.
  5. This is an open question in every arena of expression and I think the answer is yes or no but not definitively either. Baudelaire, one of visual art's most famous critics was a poet but not an artist. Peter Schjeldahl, once of the Village Voice (where he did his best work IMO) now at the New Yorker and an excellent critic of the visual arts is/was a poet but never an artist. Maybe the qualification for a critic/ commentator of any medium whether it be food, art or music is not that he be or not be a practicioner of that medium but rather that he be a poet. Calvin Trillin loudly proclaims his ignorance in the kitchen. Jeffrey Steingarten's process demands that he know his way around the kitchen. Both capitalize on the perspective that their ample bodies of knowledge and talents afford them. I've just finished reading Robb Walsh's fabulous "Are You Really Going to Eat That?" as well as his "Traveling Jamaica With Knife, Fork & Spoon: A Righteous Guide to Jamaican Cookery". I don't know whether he can cook and don't care. What occurs to me with these three lumped up here: they all have unreasonable curiosities that they've dedicate themselves to satisfying. It may a little tricky to take this perspective if you're assigned a restaurant to review every week. Too narcissistic maybe. I think it would be a welcome change. Do we want a detached expert? I thought that might be the thing but now I think what we want is a fully attached expert. . . whose interest errs on the side of the he poetics of food.
  6. Works great on a black eye.
  7. Two answers: On the expensive side try Restaurant Brückenkeller. Lighter fare as it's osrt of German Nouveau. Foams have appeared there. That said the restaurant has been around since something like 1652. Stone with arches, tapestries. Easier on the wallet but more traditionally german, The Stork. I really like this place. Herring plate sublime. All the hits done well: Have fun.
  8. ned

    Prune

    Tonight had a killer meal at Prune. Ate there over a year ago. Waited a month for the reservation. Got squeezed in between two loud table, had no room psychologically or otherwise. Decided not to go back until Gabrielle found a bigger space. Got tired of waiting and made an early res. Got the obligatory bone marrow. Like I said, killer. Particularly with the gherkins and sliced shallots. Then pulled goat. Oi. Still don't want to get squeezed into those little tables. . . but hats off to Prune. I'm going to have to find a way around it. PS: In re uncooked marrow bone at Strip House. I know it was a long time ago but still needs correcting. They roast those bones in advance and then reheat them. Don't think you'd have a chance of getting the marrow out otherwise. What you got was a bone which was insufficiently reheated.
  9. Found a citrus fruit marketed as a "sweet lime" at the Garden of Eden on 14th street. Never seen such a thing before. Heady very aromatic and syrupy sweet. Yellow on the outside and built like juice oranges, little pith and lots of juice. They also have key limes that taste remarkably like yuzu at less than a tenth the price.
  10. At the steak house (whichever one I end up at, though I always do my best to end up at Strip House) I always order a rib chop. That cut has a lovely, richly flavoured, tender as hell, extra-fatty bit that runs around the outside edge the chop where there isn't bone. It's separated by fat. Has a name, can't remember what it is. It's the only part I ever eat in the restaurant. The rest of the chop comes home and gets sliced and seared in butter and grapeseed oil over the next couple of days, eaten in a sandwich, on aruglua or with leftover truffled spinach. The sliced steak is of course very tasty but if I had my drothers, I'd only ever eat the bit on the outside. Edited to add: The bit on the outside is called the deckel.
  11. ned

    Barbuto

    After a couple year hiatus, I've been to Il Buco (Bond between Lafayette and Bowery) twice in the last month. It's been very good. Also drank great Umbrian wine--rosso di montefalco and sagrantino--for a bargain.
  12. Hmmm. I'm aware of Seattle Fargonians but Bay Ridge Norwegians? That must be before my time.
  13. There's a Norwegian restaurant in, of all places, Hudson New York. It's called Bølgen and Moi. Was meant to open in Tribeca fall of 2001, for obvious reasons didn't, then somehow they decided to do something in Hudson. Not really husmanskost (regular people's norwegian food) more like contemporary Norwegian food but still worth investigating.
  14. Last year to the day for Easter brunch I got the pulping whizzo juicer out and ran through: celery tomatoes garlic shallots walla walla sweet onions horseradish lemons lemon zest I added back some of the pulp, then fish sauce, worcester sauce, that vietnamese or thai hot sauce sirichua or something, vodka salt and pepper. Garnished with a talk o texas pickled okra.
  15. ass milk cheese Where's Wanda Sykes when you need her.
  16. Talk about a collective conscious. My wife and I were just discussing pig milking a couple of nights ago.
  17. ned

    Dinner! 2004

    Torakris, Where do you get that cut of pork!!!? It looks fabulous.
  18. ned

    Foie Gras: The Topic

    Foie Gratzoh balls in clarified grandma's chicken soup. A passover treat.
  19. Check out this book: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detai...167363?v=glance James Beard's Hors D'Oeuvre and Canapes.
  20. ned

    Hearth

    As I was making veal breast for passover, I wanted to go back and have a second try at Hearth's version. Did so on Saturday night. Also had their torchon, tuna variations and game bird terrine. All were excellent, none more so than the veal breast. Found a 28 dollar bottle of wine with which I couldn't have been happier. A Madiran. It was my third visit to Hearth and aside from excellent food, an excellent wine list and fabulous table service (really fabulous), I must make one criticism. Every time I enter the restaurant I encounter a panic of some sort that is followed by a wait long past my reservation time. And I've had company. Usually at least two other parties are standing around tapping their toes and looking at their watches. It's a troubling way to begin the experience, though in no way will it prohibit my return.
  21. ned

    Averna

    Cynar. Pretty similar to Averna. Made with artichokes.
  22. ned

    The Martini

    Sorry for the delay. Passover had me in its clutches this year. Yuzu is a citrus fruit that grows in Japan. Close relative of lemons or limes. It differs aromatically. It has a strong and musky gestalt, heady almost. It's hard to get the fruit itself but there is a concentrate, only it's not concentrated, something that is sold. . . just went to the fridge to get it and found that there's no english on the bottle. So then. I got it at the Masuko market in Edgewater New Jersey. It's an awesome market, worth a visit whether you need yuzu or not. They often have fresh yuzus there also (six bucks apiece, haven't bought one). No sake involved.
  23. ned

    Reds with Indian Cuisine

    I think the heat on indian food wipes out a good bottle of wine (or a bad one). Better off drinking beer.
  24. ned

    The Martini

    Gary, Enjoyed your QA. Thanks for that. Particularly the bit about vermouth percentages and Milk and Honey. I went there last weekend expressly to have a look at what they do and I'll be damned if a 2 to gin to vermouth ratio didn't make the gin taste more like gin than it normally does and the vermouth wasn't sickly and, well, that was just an excellent recommendation. Thank you. On the subj of martinis new and old and their innovation, I came up with something I'm reticent to call a martini but does satisfy some of the requirements. Maybe just one: It's almost all gin. Here goes: many parts bombay sapphire tablespoon of yuzu dash of elderflower syrup
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