jamiemaw

How intriguing to see both asparagus and bagels still in season in NYC--they were both finished here a full month ago for want of a superior SPF.

Even those who disavow sausages and other pork dishes become converted pilgrims at Bratwurst Glöckl (am Dom), which is converniently located near the Frauenkirche. It's a century old tavern that survived the bombing and serves excellent Bavarian food, including wood-grilled, marjoram-laced Nürnberger-style bratwurst. (Frauenplatz 9 80331 Munich; phone: 29 19 450). Behind the glass, generously-shaped fraulein cook and plate; at the stammtisch table, regulars drink away the afternoon over very good beer. Newly arrived, it's always our first stop for unique flavours and atmosphere that simply cannot be appeased elsewhere.

I'm delighted to break the news that our very own Andrew Morrison (aka waiterblog) has signed on as the incoming restaurant critic for the West Ender newspaper, replacing Robin Mines who held the position for many years and has moved on to new ventures. Many of us have been captivated by Andrew's original and spirited voice on these boards. We'll now look forward to sharing that voice as it's heard by many others. Congratulations, Andrew.

Not too far away is THE REAL GREEK, which gave us one of the better lunches we've had in the past few years in London: bottarga flakes fell from the sky over aromatic braises of lamb shoulder. I believe that they also have a more casual touch-and-go spot in The City now but can't comment on its quality.

These sound excellent - are the olives stuffed with the chili, mint and orange (a kind of a riff on gremolata?) and then battered, or does the batter have those flavours incorporated into it? ← Andy, As I recall the chili and mint were incorporated into the batter and the orange zest was strewn. Delicious. Preserved lemon would work as well. Jamie

Hello OG, It's probably a good idea to differentiate between a restaurant review and the more general food writing that I try to transact. In this case, the Globe expository story-line did not review the restaurant per se but rather tried to provide insight into how a restaurant is developed--well beyond the "hanging of drywall and banging of nails". In this case that insight (hopefully) revealed the conception and development of the menu, something that might be overlooked by the media. On other occasions, for example, we have covered topics as diverse as farming, province-wide food distribution, cheese and winemaking, the indigenous coastal fishery, sustainability issues, and the economics of a restaurant, etc., etc., and hey, even wasabi ranching. Although restaurant reviews provide a useful starting (and occasionally, finishing)point for the discourse on our food culture, it's my preference not to limit myself to them--there's simply much more here to report upon. I hope this helps, and cheers, Jamie

To Andrew's list I would add these fine folks, amongst others: Trevor at Gramercy Chris Stearns at Lumiere Tasting Bar (currently on leave at DECCA77 in Montreal Jason at Quattro The entire crew at Bluewater Jay Jones (soon to resurface at Nu, as I understand it).

Do you enjoy dining at the bar? We do all ther time, for the industry gossip, for the fact that our server won't get lost, and occasionally because the barman (or, occasionally, barwoman) adds humour and action to our experience. Do you have favourite bars where you enjoy dining and that enhance the experience? And favourite bartenders that elevate your day, whether you're dining or not?

Italian cooking uses garlic more as a perfume than a dominant flavour. My pick for best use of garlic (although as noted I am also addicted to the squid at Phnom Penh) would go to Pino Posteraro for his rotisserie chicken—slices of garlic are placed under the skin of the bird.

For those of you who may have missed the article in The Globe yesterday, here is my column on the development of the menus at Nu. GOING OUT: The Dish Next Nu Thing By Jamie Maw Harry Kambolis, the quietly affable proprietor of C and Raincity Grill, and a champion of culinary locality and sustainability, saw his main chance and he took it. But the opening of a new restaurant, no matter what the Food Network show Opening Soon might have you believe, is about much more than banging nails and hanging drywall. At Nu, Kambolis’s new oceanfront dining room, the modern but detailed décor, False Creek views and expansive balconies will be important features, but the real work arrived in the form of menu conception and development. Enter chefs Rob Belcham and Rob Clark, who cook nightly for Kambolis at the next-door C, the country’s most forward seafood restaurant. You might think that Nu’s waterfront location, under the False Creek Yacht Club, might inspire a downstream take on seafood. After all, every one else is doing it—extending their brand that is. Feenie’s and Go Fish! have enhanced cash flow for Rob Feenie and Gordon Martin, based on the reputations they gained at their respective Lumière and Bins 941/942. But at Nu, which means naked in French, but sounds like new (but you knew that) in English, you’d be only half right. For the menus—as surprising and exciting as they are well-executed—are deconstructed New French, and although they wade into the Pacific, sometimes brilliantly, they’re not tied to it. Now, after several months of development and testing, and two trial runs that I sat in on, they’re ready to be green-lighted. Those menus, after yet more tweaking, will reflect how we local citizens want to eat today: casually, but with well-informed food and intelligent service. But first, I wanted to know if they could cook outside the bento-box. The menus are divided into amuses, then small and principal plates. The amuses, priced per piece from $2.75, will combine bites of smoked paprika-marinated octopus salad, crisped dry-cured ham-enrobed plum or smoked sablefish with apple salad. Snacks to drink with: Fried, lightly battered olives with chilli, mint and orange zest ($3.75) and extraordinary chevre-stuffed (drumlet roll, please) chicken wings rendered in a chilli-spiked sweet and sour sauce ($8.50 for four). Crispy pork ribs ($8.50) and C’s salmon candy ($6.50) are other deconstructed takes on bar-room classics, while deep-fried duck and foie gras croquettes, on a sexily unmade bed of Puy lentils, are as lusty as a quality drinking buddy. It’s a rich menu (the Gruyere and onion, and oxtail soups, especially), but edited for lightness with a retinue of salads. One, of albacore, beets and arugula in a punchy vinaigrette, stole my breath. And another, which combined frisée, poached egg and warmed bacon vinaigrette, seemed just right for surveying the callisthenic view of the seawall. Principal plates see a hearty duck confit over rhubarb ($18), flat iron steak a la béarnaise with allumette potatoes ($19), and a canoe-sized platter of caramelized lamb cheeks ($19) in a suave and refreshing minted sauce. The menu sheds its clothing (and its French trace lines), one garment at a time. So does the new room. “I wanted Nu to be shapely and rounded,” says Kambolis, “like a good woman.” Where the menu gets actually naked, however, fittingly comes last, in the simple seafood I’d been anticipating. Unashamedly nude, chilled and served with a lemony olive oil dip (the jury’s still out on red sauce), you’ll see poached prawns ($12 and a welcome relief from those vulcanized Thai tigers served at lesser joints); marinated clams ($8), and steamed lobster and Dungeness crab, both priced at market. There is also a platter of local cheeses, and a French-tilted dessert card that includes a nifty lemon tart, some chocolate confections, and an exemplary, miniature tarte Tatin. The room will be as pretty as the people who will undoubtedly flock to it. Onyx-topped tables will lift white napery, shapely white plates and black-handled German stainless steel implements, redundant for the entry courses of the handy menu. Stonework will rim the walls; elaborate chandeliers will punctuate the sightlines. “We want our customer to get involved,” Kambolis says, “and to stay interested.” The wine list, currently being assembled by the redoubtable Tom Doughty, will embrace the Okanagan, Alsace, Washington and other regions. Nu will be managed by Edwyn Kumar (ex-Lumière). Menu development (amidst the maelstrom that physically detailing a restaurant demands) is a series of small steps. In this case, “We may have started with a French dictionary,” Kambolis says, “but we’ve translated that into our very own and local lexicon.” I agree. Even in the two-week period between testings, the menu has markedly evolved and the chefs have deconstructed classics while adding their own imprimatur. You should look forward—into the setting sun with a glass of good rosé in hand—and get a little excited, about getting naked at Nu. Nu is scheduled to open mid-June at 1661 Granville St., 604-646-4668. Arrivals and Departures So very sadly, and too soon gone from here, Joel Thibault, who with Jean-Claude Ramond pioneered the renaissance of Gastown and French cooking in the early 70’s with his romantic Chez Joel, has died of cancer. Ruy Paes-Braga, general manager of the Four Seasons Hotel Vancouver for many years has moved to his native Portugal for to manage the Canadian chain’s Lisbon property. Paes-Braga’s winemaker’s and producer’s dinners showcased his Chartwell kitchen’s outstanding brigade of chefs, many of whom now command serious restaurants of their own. Local hero Michael Noble, ex-Four Seasons and who opened Diva at the Met before moving to Calgary to head up Catch, has taken on the role of director of culinary and product development at Earls Restaurants. Said Earls president Stanley Fuller of Noble, who has also been a stalwart Team Canada Bocuse d’Or leader, “We’re happy Michael found us and that we found him.” Fuller and Noble will open their new Paramount Place location this summer, and with Stewart Fuller, the Saltlik steakhouse concept on Thurlow (in the former Bruce retail space) near Burrard in early autumn. The battle for downtown hotel dining supremacy is fully enjoined, with the Metropolitan’s brigade fully engaged under executive chef Ray Henry in dishes of pork gyoza and citron-foam, and house-cured halibut carpaccio with crab and shrimp fritters. At the nearby Wedgewood, Lee Parsons has rolled out his new menus; his fondant of salmon, which is also available in the bar, has become an instant signature. EnRoute Magazine (Air Canada’s food savvy in-flight guide) will shortly dispatch food writer Chris Johns on a cross-country look in at The Best New Restaurants in Canada. Likely candidates in Vancouver: Chambar, Cassis, Rangoli, Shiru-Bay, Coast, Lift and Go Fish!, each of which describes our casual dialectic. Mission Hill Winery proprietor Anthony von Mandl is being inducted into the Order of British Columbia next month for his contributions to the wine industry and the Okanagan Valley wine country. He has also been appointed as first Canadian president of the International Wine and Spirit Competition; previous presidents include Baroness Phillipine de Rothschild and Robert Mondavi. Von Mandl, whose own reserve chardonnay won the IWSC’s Avery Trophy for Best Chardonnay in the World in 1994, will take the reins from Wolf Blass in 2006.

That's what I understand. But only a closer inspection will reveal if it has washrooms now.

Actually, Keith I see that I forgot to place The Normandy on our list last night, it's about 69 years old--1936 I believe. The current iteration of The Hotel Vancouver has operated since 1939; where Griffin's is located now has been an F & B operation (coffee shop, The Spanish Grill, Griffin's) since that time.

Totally!!! If you included the closed restaurants - I have plates from the Aristocractic that was located on Granville and Broadway. The plates have the decorative logo of 'Risty' on them. Wonderfully photogenic. ← Shelora, Any restaurants of longevity that are noteworthy in Victoria? Besides The Union Club I mean. Is the Shawnigan Lake Inn still going?

Well, at least the Geoduck (aka Gooeyduck) portion was entertaining. Some things I didn't know before watching the documentary: 1. That the geoduck was nominated at one time as your state bird. 2. That it‘s the official mascot of Evergreen College. 3. That ‘Clamscam’ was a pretty major poaching (i.e. clams for clams) scandal. 4. That the Salish Nation had a saying “When the sea is out the table is set.” Meaning, I suppose, that we’re having geoduck again for dinner. 5. That in the Nisquali language, geoduck means ‘to dig deep’. 6. That it represents the largest marine biomass in Puget Sound, and by far the most commercially valuable, with up to 4 million pounds being harvested each year, about 2.7% of the commercially available stock. 7. That Hama Hama means ‘stinky, stinky’, referring to the coastal flats where it can be harvested by civilians during minus tides. 8. That the state takes a levy of about 10 times what the harvesters receive. 9. And finally, that the geoduck is not without a little charisma all its own. I feel much the better for this information and now return to World Cup Hockey.

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Keith, As far as I know: The Only began business in 1912 (two years after the new provincial liquor act was enacted) and closed 82 years later in 1994. The Ovaltine Cafe opened in 1942, succeeding the Blue Eagle and Eatmoor cafes which occupied the space after Burlington Tailors closed up shop in 1940. So it’s been going for about 63 years. Nat Bailey opened the Granville Street White Spot 77 years ago next month, in June, 1928. However it’s been gone for quite a while. Primo’s opened at 12th and Granville in 1960—45 years old and named for whom? The William Tell just celebrated its 40th anniversary (including the Richards Street location)—1965 and one of the first of the independents to emerge after WAC Bennett rolled back the hotels’ control of liquor sales. The others were Big Frank's Steak House, Leo's Steakhouse, Hy's at the Sands, The Hamilton Street Grill (although it was closed for lunch from 1972 to 1991 while the chef went to school) Monty's Steak and Seafood (see a pattern here?), The Three Greenhorns, Ondines et al. Jean-Claude Ramond opened la crêperie in 1970 and still operates The Smoking Dog in Kitsilano. Chez Joel opened in Gastown in 1972. Very sadly, Joel died this week and J-C is ill. Here's part of an historical article that we published in December 1999 entitled “We Are What We Ate”. There was another historical piece published in October, 1995 entitled “Behind the Green Door”, however that is not archived on our website. Funny you should bring this up: We're melding this reasearch and historical photography into a portion of a book that covers other dining and food landscapes as well. That would be the royal we--Camilla is helping. It may intrigue you to read how very well local citizens ate more than a century ago (really quite sophisticated)--fresh, local, seasonal--not unlike that mantra I (amongst others) flog to death now. But in 1910 the provincial government would essentially close the door on independent restaurants which would not begin to revive for half a century. Quite unbelievable in retrospect. I hope you enjoy the read. I could arrange for photocopies if you’re interested in either. Answer the Primo’s question correctly (and tell me his former profession) and the story’s free. Otherwise payment may be arranged in a modest quantity of Dutch lager, instalment plan available. Best, Jamie

← According to a blogsite called The Scent of Green Bananas, EAT went down in April, 2004. What a shame--many of the issues were beautifully produced, and on varnished paper that we are no longer allowed to use (for environmental reasons) here.

Is EAT magazine (English/Japanese) still going?

In this case $1600.

Thay were being touted last year when the restaurant opened, Vancouver, but never (as far as I know) actually showed up. Maybe if each of us--politely of course--asks . . .

It would be human nature to pocket the winnings, yes? But what the written BBC report (as opposed to the televised report) as above-thread doesn't make as clear is that the restaurauteur's protest is founded in several matters of 'principal': 1. That the distinction between the fast food and regular restaurant taxation levels is patently unfair; 2. That M. Chirac promised the tax relief in the last election campaign; and 3. The restaurauteurs maintain that business is in fact off due to a stagnant economy and perhaps as a result of the tax. Some observers feel that the tax relief is unlikely to pass unanimously due to other countries' (Germany and a couple of Scandinavian countries) fear that it would create a precedent there. If unsuccessful , of course Chirac's position will be that he tried.

The BBC reported today that tax experts from across the EU are meeting on Thursday to discuss France's demand to be allowed to cut value added tax (VAT) on restaurant meals. President Jacques Chirac has long promised to bring restaurant VAT - currently at 19.6% - in line with the 5.5% charged at fast-food outlets. Apparently he promised the change during the last election campaign but requires unanimous EU approval. The rest of the report is here. A near 20% tax seems painfully high; shouldn't the relationship be reversed so that fast food is charged the higher 'Fat Tax' or would that be looked upon as an unfair burden on the poor and mentally-challenged?

Hi Gerald, The best I've had recently were at Christmas time in the market in Zihuatanejo: mystery white fish (shark? dorado? who cares) and a terrific sauce as convincing as us five minutes after last call. Shrimp tacos at Palmilla in Los Cabos were excellent too, if a bit civilized. You're right, the downtown cantinas are more autentico with the whiffs of diesel fuel and danger mixed in. There are useful ones at SoBo too--in Tofino. But what do all these places have in common? Well, they're not exactly at the end of the block, are thay? And maybe I've missed something, but they never seemed to make the menu at Go Fish despite having been touted. Maybe this summer? There's a new cantina opening shortly at First and Yew (next door plus one to Adesso) called Burrito Bros. that--according to the carpenter that I pestered the other night--will be serving fish tacos. Here's hoping. But I hope that you're doing market research. As Kolachy proprietors, soup Nazis, cheesesteak guys, and you and Noah have discovered: Do one thing (with options)really well all day and night and after a while you can make more than a living. The only problem I can foresee is that you'd have to change your name to Geraldo.

About Us is the excellent KCTS series that profiles Washington. Thursday at 9pm they will rebroadcast Three Feet Under (everything you wanted to know about geoducks and their resemblance to equine anatomy), and then at 10pm, Seattle: Coffee. Here's a program summary.