jamiemaw

Intriguing selection of wines, Jack. Do you recall the approximate cost, with the exception of the gifted Kabinett? It would be interesting to compare notes across the pond. By the way, the Paradise Ranch Icewine is now a collector's item--or at least its etched bottle is. The winery and vineyards were sold last year to Mission Hill but will still be produced under their brand. It's located on a particularly stunning part of Okanagan Lake, perched over steep escarpments and beaches on the Naramata Bench, part of Canada's only true desert. Summer temperatures commonly soar over 40˚ C, but the vintners usually have to wait until December or even January to harvest, with 48 hours of continuous -8˚ C temperatures required to effect harvest as Vintners’ Quality Assurance (VQA) Icewine. The icewine vines cannot be picked before November 15, and the finished Brix must be 35 or highrer. The total production from the nine wineries is only about 80 or so tonnes: It's a risk-frought gamble every year, as the fruit is prey to birds, rot, poachers and larger beasts . . . The former proprietor, Jimmy Stewart, once told me of remote-accessing his vineyard cameras while on a marketing trip in Europe. He watched in horror as a large herd of elk came through the vines, gobbling the late season berries as they went. The sugar-laden fruit had a speedy effect, but there was nothing to be done. Thank you for the Beatrix Potter moments and relaxed but delicious lcooking—now I’m looking forward to a little Clive James (i.e. “May Week was in June”). Cheers, Jamie

That's better. They must have felt guilty for bringing you that kiddy portion of ribs. What were the approximate prices for the ribs, burger, sausage sampler, sides et al?

You'll know when you have your first one.

Agreed. The nearby Isle d'Orleans is a gorgeous and easy drive, with farms, a prettily restored mill and other stops. Amongst our favourites was the Domaine Steinbach cidery. They also make particularly good mustards including orange and tomato-basil. As piquant as the residents' humour.

I'll let Jack fill in the blanks, but if memory serves Cambridge is comprised of a number of colleges (my friend attended St. Catherine's, known more for its sporting life in the mid-70's than its academe). The colleges, in turn, are rife with societies and clubs. But clearly I missed some nuance--perhaps Jack instructs directly for the University, which is coming up for its 800th anniversary in four years.

What vintage is your Aga, Jack? And how would you judge the maintenance? Do you ever find the heat disaffecting in the summer?

Laurie Raphaël has been redecorated. Although let it be said that the chef, M. Vézina, is a little too good looking for his own good. My fiancée thought they should name a trophy after him. Disclosure. I had a splendid meal at Le Saint-Amour, although the purpose was to interview M. Boulay—so less review than reveal. A very thoughtful chap. We spent the day at several farms (including where his foie is raised) and followed the ingredients from the fields that morning onto the plate that night. It was the last night that I ate foie gras; a great way to go out: “The chef with whom I was traveling, Jean-Luc Boulay, who operates a restaurant called Le Saint’Amour, visited this operation regularly, as much, I came to feel, for his interest in the welfare of the animals as for the quality of the smaller finished product that they gave up. He seemed convinced that the smaller livers (about 450 grams) were superior—less likely to be granular—and that the ducks knew no suffering. Boulay regularly serves several variations. Typical might be a homemade terrine with Sauternes jelly and fig pulp; squab stuffed with fresh foie gras; or foie gras seared with fleur de sel, its pan deglazed with cranberries and mango chutney. One can also order a foie gras plat combining several of these. In fact, the last foie gras I ate was in Quebec City, early last summer, from the hand of the master Boulay. It was seared quickly in a hot iron pan, and generous under a topknot of good salt and a fresh, barely warmed compote of rhubarb that put sweaters on my teeth. Those combinant flavours, plush under their crust and tinctured with the rhubarb, melted away slowly, and then forever.”

Thank you Jack, for the tour around your garden, smoking aparatus, the asides on your multi-tasking career(s) and the town and gown references. I have splendid memories of Cambridge. My best friend, Angus Stewart (aka 'The Burly Canadian'), captained the Blues to back-to-back victories over Oxford in the mid-seventies. His now-wife attended King’s. Now I try to look in on the town as often as possible, especially when accompanying Mr. Stewart as he seems to drink for free in the town. I’ve particularly enjoyed your relaxed expertise in bread-making, herb-invigilation, bacon curing (if you haven’t read Maynard—The Adventures of a Bacon Curer yet, you must soon) and egg trading with the neighbours. Clearly the last reminds of crossover between your lecturing in matters entrepreneurial and your need for quality proteins. I was also very impressed by the series of safeguards built into the exam marking system at your college. Have you thought of recommending this system to those who edit Michael Winner? In addition to the punting preparations, I'm hoping that you might take us inside your local and perhaps a favourite restaurant. And, by the way, have you smoked any game: grouse, pheasant, lark, venison et al? Mind you those rabbits look eminently (and imminently?) smokeable too. A little hare-raising might be just the thing, although garden pigeon Stroganoff might suit your next inclement evening. Looking forward to the big punt. Yours, etc. Jamie

Please support The Dog, Deborah. Just before his death, Jean-Claude had completed its sale to his son Martin and his partner Jean. I'm sure that they would be especially happy for your patronage right now and there are some very good value choices available (the table d'hôte is c. $20; the pastas and crêpes are excellent) as well as the more expensive côte de boeuf or pepper steak. J.

Absolutely concur with Lesley’s recommendation of Hotel Dominion 1912. Comfortable, characterful but bristling with modern appurtenances and the staff could not have been more forgiving of my bloodstained French. Bonus: It’s also within easy crawling distance of both Laurie Raphaël (wonderful extended play, director's cut, war of attrition tasting menus) and the marvellously unpretentious L’Échaudé, a flavour-forward bistro with astute wine picks. A visit to see the master Jean-Luc Boulay (whose foie is humanely raised—sub 450 gram livers) at Le Saint-Amour (he sources extraordinary greens and vegetables from Le Jardin des Chefs, operated by the redoubtable--and former CBC producer-- Jean Leblond in the Charlevoix) was another highlight. We also very much enjoyed the very thoroughly detailed Route des Sauveurs map (essentially a culinary tourism trail) that led us to local cheeseries, cideries, old mills and several other farms. Like many of the provincial capitals of Canada that have rediscovered their culinary roots, and where chefs and farmers now closely collaborate (Victoria also leaps to mind) one of the charms of Quebec is just how condensed the dining opportunities are. Everything is right at hand, not least of all your fork.

Certainly, as budrichard points out, there are limited amounts of high quality fresh tuna available on the eastern seaboard of the US (bluefin), in the eastern Atlantic fishery (ditto), on the western seaboard of the US and Canada (albacore), Hawaii (ahi, or yellowfin), Australia and New Zealand (bluefin—significantly regulated since 1993 in an effort to recreate a sustainable fishery), Italy (bluefin, or matanza, which means kill) and Japan (kuromaguro or blue fin, big eye, yellow fin, albacore—in order of descending perceived value). There's skipjack too, but that's not really germane. Interestingly, before 1975 or so, big bluefins were sold for pennies per pound for cat food, now they attract hundreds of dollars per kilo. The way I understand it, in order for, say, big bluefins to be served fresh they must immediately be: • Spiked to kill brain and nerves; • Gutted to remove major heat source and minimize bacterial contamination; and • Rapidly chilled to a core temperature close to 0˚ C in ice slurry--to preserve density and translucency. • Fresh tuna can be sustained for up to ten days or so, but its first half hour after kill determines its ultimate quality. I suppose that my point upthread was that the vast bulk of tuna sold commercially in North America and Japan is FAS (shock frozen at sea)--for bacterial reasons. And surely too, as budrichard quite rightly points out, there’s lots of inferior, mishandled, and just plain old tuna lurking in plastic supermarket trays—ripening in its juice. Here on the west coast, as sustainability issues have taken hold in the public consciousness, and their consequences on our local fishery thought through(farmed fin fish no, sustainable wild species yes), there’s also an increased awareness about the sustainability of imported, offshore species. Thus the increasing rise in popularity, locally, of pink salmon (which used to be relegated to the canning line) and indigenous albacore tuna versus the much more expensive and over-fished bluefin. By all accounts, it’s the Atlantic bluefin fishery that is the most severely threatened (reported 90% decline since the 70's), victim to that perfect storm (if you’ll excuse the phrase): the confluence of dense north-eastern consumer population at the zenith of its boomer-sushi graph, and, not unlike the Russian sturgeon markey, the high value catch. The formerly ubiquitous (seared, tartare) ahi is no longer quite as victimized, perhaps for reasons of fashion (it was a pre-millennial one-note wonder) more than consumer concern. But, not unlike one’s perception of the 1855 French wine cru ratings system, consumer tastes in raw fish are allowed to change too. Not all of us might wish to drink a premier cru every night, nor eat bluefin belly. As for myself, I actually prefer the plush texture of albacore now (pairs nicely with a furry Rhone). But perhaps that’s because I’m of Scottish descent and born, appropriately, with fish hooks in my pockets. The price of albacore dominos at my corner bar (there are about 350 Japanese restaurants in Vancouver) are less than half the price of big eye. And that too warms my chilly Scottish heart, which is the approximate temperature of ice slurry. Back on topic. Trusty (well-seasoned) cast iron pan (you'll never crust tuna in a non-stick), started from cold, gloss of oil (grapeseed or safflower for higher smoke points) to dried loin taken directly from fridge, white heat, cold plate. Cheers.

MM, Clearly drive-thru daquiris are a God-given right in any civilized jurisdiction. That being said, in yours it must make for an amusing sight in the carpool lane: three wobbleheads and a driver. But decidedly unpicayune, say I: This is important stuff and I'll be right over.

The Pink Pearl (inclusive of dim sum), Floata and The Keg (Thurlow Street) when there's no pepper spray in the washroom, would all be contenders. J.

Order the rotisserie chicken with pommes puree and beautifully turned vegetables at Enoteca. It's only $25 and a terrific dish.

To Adesso I would add Quattro on Fourth, Cioppino's Enoteca, and Villa del Lupo, which, while not casual, is remarkably good value.

Isn't virtually all so-called 'sashimi-grade' tuna (be it big eye, blue fin, ahi or albacore) frozen at sea (FAS)? That was my impression when visiting the auctions at Tsukiji--the enormous fish market that supplies Japanese and many North American sushi-oriented restaurants. It's the management of what comes next--a slow thaw on ice--that ultimately guides quality.

I split my time about 50:50 between Vancouver and Kelowna right now. Here are a few thoughts about the central valley . . . I think that The Mission Hill Terrace and the Quail's Gate Old Vines Patio (soon to reopen after an expansion) are the two best al fresco/view dining experiences. For groups, Michael Allemeier's Private Dining menus (available in a number of venues around MH) provide what I think is the best overall dining in the valley--available for 6 plus people. We also enjoy The Harvest Golf Club, Bouchons, Fresco, and La Boulangerie in Pandosy Village (terrific breads, pastries and tarte Tatin as well). but in the summer there's little better than just firing up the barbecue at our cottage (next to the Pinot Reach--now Tantalus--Winery) and enjoying the orchard and lake views. So where to shop? For grocery shopping, Guisichan Village offers Liquids (cold beer, and a good selection of spirits and wine), Okanagan Groceries (Rhys Pender's nifty bakery), L & D Meats, Paul's Produce, and The Codfather for fish. These are conveniently located in a small shopping centre at Guisichan and Gordon. Illichmann's provides quality meats, European condiments (mayonnaise in a tube for picnics), cheeses etc. It's located on Gordon about a kilometre south of Harvey. The Mediterranean Market is located at 1570 Gordon, and Sunshine Market (good meat pies and stuffed pastas for quick dinners) is on Lakeshore south of Dehart. There are a number of excellent organic farms near the Mission; Suncatcher is superb for greens etc., and of course Milan's early tomatoes will be coming in shortly at Stoney Paradise. The fruit stands that dot the valley will also be opening soon for stone fruit and berries. It's common to see local chefs out early snagging the prime stuff. Boar is available from North Okanagan Game Meats while bores are thick on the ground at most golf clubs. The Eldorado is the bar of choice and proprietor Jim Norris has buffed up the food on the patio and in the restaurant. The best deal is the generously portioned half lobster cocktail ($16), taken in the sunshine. CFD? We've also had quality eats at Joey's Global on 97. Chris Mills (ex-Diva at the Met) is the development chef there and it shows. The Cactus Club is opening down the strip in a couple of months. Earls have recently bought their well-located building that offers prime lake views, and will be renovating shortly to capitalize on Kelowna's rebounding downtown, where towers and loft buildings are sprouting monthly, and to the point where parking is tough on game and event nights. The Bohemian offers very good turkey sandwiches and soups in a funky room jammed with locals. Vintropolis and The Waterfront (next door to Bouchons) are the two excellent wine bars, with some very good food too. One tip for summer navigation in Kelowna: stay away from Harvey/97. Springfield runs parallel and with fewer traffic jams.

Irwin, 'Chilean sea bass', although commercially extinct, rather unbelievably can still be occasionally spotted at fishmongers and on vestigial menus. So I think the reason responsible vendors have stopped selling it has a lot to do with conscience, although it also begs the question as to what is now actually being sold under its brand.

I would consider the two fish to be culinarily interchangeable too, if only in the past tense. That's because only the sablefish remains a sustainable resource. From the time various species of South American toothfish (primarily Patagonian), were rebranded as the more palatable 'Chilean Sea Bass' (a Häagen-Daazian name), its demise was largely dealt. That was abetted by its buttery flesh and forgiving nature; even in the most inexpert hands, its gummable fillets were difficult to screw up and 'held' well. Portion control alert: By the early 90's the rubber chicken circuit was simultaneously being rebranded too. Orange roughy was also rapaciously overfished in the last two decades of the last century. Lightly smoked sablefish is delightful with a miso glaze; it can be temepered with maple syrup. Chilean sea bass and orange roughy are now--fortunately--only seen on the menus of the truly ignorant. Those chefs should glaze them simply with bliss.

Riblets, actually. And as for the flight control tower, well that's predisposed for landing Beavers--of the DeHavilland species of course. Finally, Pammy Anderson moving home. Sincerely yours, David Hasselhoff

"The Longbridge Rover works are reportedly being converted to a new barbeque factory," according to Brussels-based Missing Parts magazine. In an apparent attempt "to stave off worker-led insurrections", parent-company BMW spokeperson Henrich Manoeuvre said today that "We are now doubly-determined to make the West Midlands into the barbecue capital--the Arkansas--of Europe." According to Manoeuvre, who was speaking to an EU forum hastily arranged in Stürm-Württemberg, "Range Rover bonnets are ideally suited for entertainment-sized sizzling, especially when turned turtle." He also said that "Dry rubs and limey bastes might just make Longbridge the new Soho," an apparent reference to other labour insurrections in that popular precinct of the Capital.

Clearly, the art of the hand-pulled noodle personified.

Koreans. Quite light (carry-on appropriate), big grins, wildly popular here.

Interesting. Although Brent Davies didn't win the lease (the prevailing opinion three years ago on West 12th Avenue being that he was the category dominator--the Shaguar and rubber tire categories, that is) with his Seasons, Cardero's, Sandbar and the-then Teahouse (now Sequoia), but that one of his longest term chefs, Linda Larouche, did. David Richards, the GM, is one of the cleverest destination guys going--he even inspired consistent attendance at the hard-to-find Prow Restaurant, which local tycoon Joe Segal sold back to the Feds so they could lengthen Canada Place in order to rack more dragon boats. That lease-kill, not incidentally, raised substantially more dough than a kilo of Cow Brand. It will be interesting to see if Linda is allowed a few pence more in her new digs--perhaps to take her food costs over the Davies' litmus of +/- 26%. Clearly (or more to the point, hopefully), this will be an epiphany, a real change-of-life venture for the Barnett Bros., who must feel dreadfully guilty for their prior deep-fried ways. (You'll surely recall that squid eventually formed a union to protest the tentacular abuse of their brethern at the Elephant and Castle chain.) Personally, I hope that it proves wildly popular because it might just convince the City to release its stranglehold on the the seawall, that rather sterile strip (and food-challenged asset) currently held captive by buffos with baggage wheels under their boots. Mind you that baggage ain't all Louis Vuitton, as the following quotation from the E&C website might attest: "Dear Prospective Franchisee: Thank you for your interest in the Elephant & Castle, one of the most popular new casual, theme franchises in the new restaurant segment in North America today... Pubs! Why have English and Irish pubs become so popular in the United States and Canada? --Pubs generate high average unit revenues per square foot! --Pubs produce a healthy mix of liquor, beer and wine sales to drive margins! --Pub Grub food menus require only a small, compact kitchen and food prep area! --Almost any size, shape or existing floor plan may be built or renovated as a pub! --The Elephant & Castle is North America's oldest and largest chain of authentic English pubs. Elephant & Castle™ Group Inc. is a 28-year-old public company trading on OTCBB under the symbol PUBSF. We own, operate and franchise: --23 authentic English pub restaurants in the United States and Canada" Chisee indeed, Fran, and goodnight.

Forum is located in the same space as the Expo-vintage Irish Rovers pub space. It's big, with more than 300 seats when the patio is going. The menu was originally developed by Gianni Picchi but there was a fall-out, and apparently some of the staff whom he had originally brought aboard were 'dehired'. Including himself, according to a chat I had with him yesterday.