winemike

Indeed. This was announced in December. Effective 1st of February, Eric Westermann will be heading Buerehiesel. Antoine will "retire" in Paris, as far as I've understood and will be involved in his two parisians places: Mon Vieil Ami and Drouant. I don't know how Eric will change Buerehiesel but there will be at least some changes, all smooth apparently. Several dishes (including the frog legs) will remain on the menu.

I'll try to help with the little I know... I'll most probably get corrected... 1. Noix de Saint Jacques is just the heart of the scallop itself (the white part, without the coral). Coquille means shell, so it usually means the entire shell, including the coral, clearly. 2. Langoustine is prawn (not sure) Langouste is crayfish (really not sure) Homard is lobster 3. Volaille = poultry Poulet = chicken about the other questions.. 1.well, lobster is blue anyway... the brittany one is a tad smaller, indeed a little tastier and an awful lot more expensive than the canadian lobster mainly from Nova Scotia. I'm not sure about scottish lobster 2.Not sure, to me bar is bass. Now seabass may be interpreted as loup de mer, same thing but from the mediterrenean sea as opposed to atlantic ocean (bar). 3.Poulet de Bresse is an AOC. All you ever dreamt about knowing about is on www.pouletbresse.com. And i've not heard of blue foot but only of black foot "pattes noires"... 4.Wagyu is the breed of the cow. Kobe just the general naming for the actual japanese grown vs american grown (in which case, it can't be Kobe...). It's certainly not what is served in French bistros. Where you'll find Charolais, Normande, Laguiole... and many others... These are quickly, off top of my head answers. You'll probably find way more info on the net or from people who will correct me.

They may well be sourced in the same place but I guess my opinion was forged by the fact that the ingredients were less "hidden" at Ma Cuisine and definitely prepared in a way that puts them forward. It implicitely put their qualities in front... Something that struck me as not being the case at Caveau des Arches. Of course, it may have been the day, the chosen dishes, etc... I do agree that it's not top notch. But that's not what I expect anyway. I did, though, expect this at Le Jardin des Remparts and was utterly disappointed. Quality of the meal was closer to the workers cantine than from any place calling itself a restaurant.

I disagree with degusto re. Caveau des Arches vs Ma Cuisine. Le Caveau des Arches, though very nice, offers a more posh version of French/Burgundian classics but does not rival Ma Cuisine for quality of ingredients and cooking. In 2006, I have visited Ma Cuisine 3 times and only once Le Caveau des Arches but my opinion has not changed. Admittedly, the wine list at Ma Cuisine, which used to be an absolute "do not miss", has seen some price increases and less availabilities in rarities (or famous labels). Nevertheless, many gems are still to be found. I'd also highly recommend "Les Tontons", just off place Madeleine (100 m away from le Caveau des Arches). Fabulous unpretentious cooking and very regularly visited by famous winemakers from around Beaune. Remarkable wine list too. My one experience at Le Jardin des Remparts two years ago remains my worst experience ever in a restaurant. Be it food, service and wine service. They managed to mess everything up. On a saturday dinner. Every single guest at the table was shocked. I will never go back. Also, Le Chassagne in Chassagne-Montrachet is not as good as it used to be. The prices on the wine list went through the roof, the quality of the food more than questionable and overall experience disappointing though asking Michelin starred prices. This is my conclusion from my last 3 visits in the last six months.

Very good recommendations indeed. I did not know "Feuerrädchen" changed owner a few weeks back. I have beeen some months ago and did like it indeed... Dorine, some famous place (if touristy) but still serves alright food would be Adolf Wagner on Schweizer Strasse. Or "Zum Gemahlten Haus", just next to it. As kai-m points out, you have to try Frankfurt's "Grüne Soße" with some Ebbelwoi (or Apfelwein...), a local cidre that one must have had.

Erno's bistro is no bargain. It was not a good QPR. But it was good nevertheless. I have been back since. And been less impressed. They may well have been exceptionnally great the first night I visited because the two times I have been since, I left kinda wondering. The price is just too high... the wine list is stupidly expensive and there were misses... I have not been in one year now. And don't intend to return soon. I have been touring the poor Frankfurt scene and well... Villa Merton served me the worst fish ever a few years back. Arrogant service. I will never return... Cyrano... well... not bad... but too much spices, tricks, trys which were not hits. I want to be served food which emphasise a product, not some creations were lamb tastes like spice and herbs... But all in all, the food was well above (Frankfurt) average. I have been to Osteria Enoteca too. Good... not brilliant by any means but very good. There are a few left on the list like Silk, or Tigerpalast. But frankly, Frankfurt's high end restaurant scene is not interesting enough. I almost never spend my weekends there and when in Frankfurt, I prefer local fare... or dine at home with friends so that the wine does not cost me 5 times what it should...

Simmenthal is the breed of the cow, afaik. Thanks for the report. I'd be interested in seeing q few photos too

We have different expectations from wine shops. Saying LDG is for tourists and that they don't know about wine is certainly pushing it. I just related my only (and bad) experience. The lack of knowledge about the wine sold in the shop was problematic for me (it was about Burgundy). Leave alone the wine tasting... The series of wine was not even served in the right order... Little correction on your post, Felice: Lavinia does by no means offer wines at the best possible price. In fact, it's a quite expensive shop... but a few bargains can be found. I like browsing in this shop though. I must underline here that I very rarely buy French wine from shops (the odd bottle, or something I wanted to try). I almost exclusively buy directly from producers (and futures for Bordeaux). And while I understand a shopkeeper won't know as much about a wine as the one who made it, I still expect they tasted the wine.... Anyway, I do not want to sound too negative. The shop has its aficionados. I am not amongst them, that's all...

Is anyone taking this list seriously?...

Carlsbad, taking you're talking about LDG, I don't care that it's owned by an american, a chinese or whatever. I don't care neither that they cater for English speakers. The pricing policy is theirs, I have the choice not to buy (!!)... What I was trying to say is that this shop is overhyped. It's not a special wine shop. It does not have an extensive nor an overly interesting selection. It's just a regular shop. The american link is irrelevant. Anyway, sorry for the thread hijack. About winelists in Paris, I think my favourite is at Lavinia. For lunch. Basically, it's the whole shop. You buy at shop price and drink at the restaurant upstairs. No corkage. Food is alright. Some dishes are even great.... The pricing of the wines is not extraordinary (even expensive) for a wine shop but for a restaurant....

Margaret, Herve was definitely not there as there was only one woman that afternoon. The prices were not outrageous, but they were not great. Definitely above what I'd be ready to pay (and have actually paid for - elsewhere). This applies particularly to the Champagne and Burgundy selection. That same afternoon, I visited Caves Auge and not only was the staff way more knowledgeable but the prices were alright and the selection... well, you simply can't compare. And I'm not talking about prestigious or expensive bottles. I have to say I was disappointed because I had heard good things about LDG. Maybe I was expecting too much. But maybe that's just me...

HA!! Here is the link!! I was at La Derniere Goutte (for the first and last time) a couple of weeks ago and the shopkeeper heavily insisted that I must eat at "Fish", telling me it serves *magnificent* food, etc, etc... They had an obvious interest in the restaurant but as they did not say which one I concluded to "helping friends". Now I see.... They're co-owning it!!.... Anyway, I was unimpressed by the shop. I expected an extensive selection of affordable wines from small producers from Burgundy, Languedoc, etc .. as you mention. Well.... Nice Champagne (though short) selection but certainly not great prices (though standard for Paris, I guess). Mainly known names (does not mean prestigious) for Burgundy, known names from the Languedoc and Alsace (though the selection is not bad it's nowhere near exceptional nor extensive and no bargains to be found). Oh, by the way, there was a tasting organised there and I was appalled by the lack of knowledge about the wines served of the person from the shop...

Yes, they do.

Well... this is difficult as it's a very personal thing... Anyway, I'd not miss the "Feuillantine de langoustine, sesame et sauce curry". This is a signature dish and has to be had. It's truly great. I was quite impressed with the "Escalopine de bar" and on a second thought, would probably have gone for the beef instead of the poultry after the fish. For dessert, you shoud try their famous "Tarte fine au chocolat, glace vanille". It's wonderful. But this is all a mood thing. You'll probably be more satisfied if you follow your own instinct/tastes... Oh, don't worry about not speaking French. They speak perfect English, the table next to us did not speak very good French and the waiters were more than happy serving them in English. The contrary would have been suprising... Enjoy L'Ambroisie.

A friend of mine is a sales rep at Pernod in France. I remember our last conversation where he pointed out to me that the world's largest alcohol beverages single purchaser is... the LCBO. I too thought this was some urban myth. Apparently, it's not. I do not really understand why this would matter anyway. They did not have the 1/10th of the wine I was after when I was living in T.O.

Robert, that's absolutely true. I was not as impressed this time as I was a few years back. Maybe the choices I've made were not the best possible. The Mrs went for the "Feuillantine de langoustine" and I had a little part of it: this is still an amazing dish. The wine recommendation was not the best possible, but I'm very picky about wine... Then I had very high expectations and these were difficult (impossible?) to reach. Another problem is that only one dish had the "wow" factor I was after. And talking about ingredient quality and cooking, I can _objectively_ name a much cheaper place in Strasbourg that offers similar quality foodwise (of course setting can't compare and it won't be truffle packed but truffle do not make the quality of a meal, imho). Don't get me wrong, it was still a marvellous dinner. Just that I was not blown away...

L'Ambroisie... I had dinner there last friday, 17th of March. It was great food. But not mind blowing either. Lots of truffles. The "veloute de cresson aux noix de Saint Jacques, emulsion de truffe" was a nice dish with outstanding scallops but I was not moved by it. The watercress was very unwelcomed by the wine (though I mentioned the potential problem when I ordered the dish and was told there would not be any problem…) Then, the one dish that was outstanding was the "escalopine de bar poelees, asperges et truffe". The aspargus was simply the best I have ever eaten. Cooked to absolute perfection with an unbelievable taste. It shined in this truffle packed dish. The truffle "tapenade" that was in this dish is also something I will remember. A pure delight…. Of course, all ingredients are of the best imaginable quality. Cooking was perfect. Then the "Poulette de Bresse rotie au beurre de truffe, gratin de macaroni"… was just too much. Again, amazing poultry but it was just too much food. The "gratin de macaroni" did not bring anything here. It was very creamy but remained uninteresting. I would have much preferred a simple salad. This was a dish that I will not remember, though the poultry's quality in undeniable. The dessert "Palet de chocolat lacte aux marrons glaces, sabayon single malt" was really nice indeed. The sabayon was very peaty (made with 10y old Ardbeg) and the marrons glaces outstanding. But nothing to be remembered. Just a nice dessert. Service was nice if slightly rigid. The wine recommendation was not good. I chose to start with a Pol Roger Winston Churchill 1995 that was really reasonably priced and was going for a '99 Domaine Leflaive Batard-Montrachet to follow though asked the sommelier for a better choice, if he thought I was not doing this right. Well well well… he first recommended a wine I knew would not be to my liking (I have tried it before and it is nowhere near great wine). He then pointed me to Chandon de Briailles '99 Corton "Le Charlemagne". Well, since I do not know the producer (just by name), I trust the sommelier and go for it. This was a mistake. I tried the wine and thought it alright at the first sip (though not great either…) but when warming up, it was clearly disjointed, over the hill, missing complexity and not powerful enough for this hearty dish that the "Poulette de Bresse" was. I was annoyed. But what can you do? It was served slightly too cold at the beginning and you can't return a wine once the third of the bottle is gone. Note to self: choose wine without sommelier advice next time. The bill was... Well… you know… but the experience was worth the money and certainly in the range of other 3 macs restaurants in Paris. Cheers Mike

I know people who have spent 200k Euros on a car... L'Ambroisie's prices do not astonish me. It's called priorities. ← Oh, I do understand what you mean. I flew to New York from Vienna in 1980 to hear Horowitz (assuming that he would never play in Europe again), then gladly paid five times what any other ticket for a recital would have cost when he *did* play in Vienna in 1987. The only thing that just might give me pause is that I could eat at least two, probably three, exquisite meals for the price of the Ambroisie experience. But then again, I did say (didn't I?) that I am entirely willing to believe it is worth it. Interpreting the statement above more or less literally, I can only take it to mean that L'Ambroisie's priorities are to make lots of money. Fair enough! ← Lots of people reading far more in a few words than what they actually say... Yes, L'Ambroisie is worth it. I certainly never said it was not. Yes, the Ferrari is worth its price. Yes, you were right to fly to NY to hear Horowitz. Yes, not everybody can afford it. When you're passionate about something, reason rarely (if ever) gets in the way. I am not saying either that Pacaud is making tons of money. And I do not care about this. What I see is that these prices are not astonishing in context. L'Arpege is not cheaper, neither is Pierre Gagnaire. All I was trying to say is that at this level, these prices are not surprising. Sorry for those who misunderstood what I said... Want to talk about the price of wine?...

I know people who have spent 200k Euros on a car... L'Ambroisie's prices do not astonish me. It's called priorities.

I find this thread really interesting since I had exactly the same problem, the other way round... I'm happy to learn that Picard has bagels. This is one thing that is not easy to find in France... And I enjoy one from time to time. Fwiw, I find Picard quite nice. Re. mayos, I was just kidding... though I guess that they'd be pretty similar. In all fairness, I found Hellman's to be pretty bland. Kinda "grease it up" tool rather than anything adding taste.. but that may just be me... Whenever I wanted mayo, I just made it myself. I have bought Philadelphia cream cheese at my local Auchan, in Alsace. I am not sure they carry it regularly since I just don't eat much of it anyway. I'll check it next time I'm there. It is definitely available in all grocery shops in Germany, fwiw... Now that I think about it, they may well have sourced them in Germany since you find other german stuff there like "Tresana" (cheese to spread on bread, kinda between "petit suisse" and Kiri...) there too. Your Dill like a Klausseen is a good question... again, funnily, I avoided these in the US and Canada, wanting my good old sour, small, cornichons! I have no idea where to find the "real american" ones in France! I am sorry I cannot contribute more on this, since I'm back on "french" stuff...

I would not know and who cares?!... It's so much better with a fresh baguette! hmm... I've live in North America for 3 years and all I could find in grocery stores, is this nasty Hellman's... Funny that I prefer the "Maille" mayonnaise, even is, frankly, it's so much better when you make it yourself? Equivalents to Hellman's would be the mayonnaise sold in "toothpaste tubes", the cheapest available, at the bottom of the shelf at Auchan or alike. I'd avoid that. But you can now find "Philadelphia" in France which is clearly creamcheese to me... I had the same problem on the other side of the pond Cheers - Mike

Thanks for these pictures, MobyP! I'm dining at L'Ambroisie next week and couldn't wait... it's worse now!...

In Chablis, I've had a great lunch at L'Hostellerie des Clos. A great selection of Chablis and quite good food. I've heard that when it gets busy, it's not up to its Michelin star but I've been there for a thursday lunch and it was really good. If you go to Beaune and its area, there's a lot of good choices: - Ma Cuisine in Beaune - Les Tontons in Beaune - Le Chassagne in Chassagne-Montrachet - Chez Guy in Gevrey-Chambertin. Been to all these several times recently (only one time Chez Guy) and were consistently good. A very bad experience at Le Jardin des Remparts in Beaune.... Enjoy the trip. Mike

With Chocolate, I like Banyuls and Maury in particular. Though lately, pairings with Pedro Ximenez have been very successful too. Your tawny port can be fine but I haev found Maury to be a better pairing.... With fresh fruits, it depends on the fruits, really. But an Alsace Gewurztraminer VT or SGN can do the trick. A Tokay Pinot Gris too. Not to discount Sauternes or Vouvray Moelleux of course... depends on the fruit. Of course, a Muscat is a very good choive here. If you're just looking at strawberries, try Champagne. But avoid Champagne with any other dessert (!!!). Cheers

The recipe with 250g butter for 1kg potato is the one he advertises when he's asked about the recipe for his otherworldly "puree de pommes de terre". Though, caught in a discussion about this recipe, Guy Savoy just laughed at him when Robuchon announced this ratio, adding that he (Guy Savoy) reckons a HALF/HALF butter/potato ratio. Robuchon just answered with a smile, pretty much acknowledging... that in the restaurant, it might be made "differently"...