circeplum

i did a search on this and nothing came up, so i figure it might be a new one on y'all. was taken to a little joint called la tradition by a native parisian. he warned me that the owners - a married couple, she in the kitchen, he front of house - can often be rude and offhand, but that the food was worth it. in the event, they couldn't have been more charming (they were showing us pictures of their daughter who works for gordon ramsay by the end of our meal!) it looks like a bit of a shitehole: grubbyish nets, perfunctory decor. apparently it used to be much frequented by jockeys, hence the comical height of the bar-stools. there's no menu, no wine list, you're just told a couple of options. after an ace kir, we were brought just about the best foie gras dish i've had: a thick circle of the pressed, pate kind, and an immaculately seared lobe of fresh stuff on a bed of spiced pears. i loved this so much that the owner - unsolicited - brought another plateful. then scallops, perfectly seared, caramelly, on a bed of fabulous hand-made pasta with fresh spinach and a lemony beurre blanc. my pal's duck was a study in how to do the bird real justice. at this point, the owner opined that i was clearly a fragile little thing who needed feeding up (!) and brought me a magnificent entrecote on goose-fat roasted potatoes. fabulous wine, delivered without ceremony or consultation (can't remember it, sorry). magnificent cheeses including a truly evil camembert. a selection of three custardy tarts. a massive bottle of armagnac left on the table. 70 euros for two - just fabulous value. totally, unreservedly recommended. m (La Tradition 2 rue Budapest 75009 paris 01 48743733)

still, if you can score a table outside on a balmy evening, the aforementioned cow and the view can almost make it seem worth the loot. m

and, just read on lastminute.com that they're doing a two course dinner for £15.50. m

oh yes, and in the ladies' lavs, what looks like a mirror covered in running water is actually a space through which you can view the men's urinals. excellent hen party material, id've thought ... m

or les trois garcons. i've been told that the food has improved and there's no doubt that - with its waterfall chandeliers and tiara-bedecked stuffed animals - it's a gorgeously (though decadently) girlie spot. and since it's in the wild east (or eastside as we're supposed to now say...) a spot of bad behaviour won't go amiss. m

i love carbonara made with cream. it's how my mamma used to make it.

a good italian's always an idea for a hen night - you're guaranteed lots of last-ditch male attention... if nothing else, from the waiters. zafferano? girly; non-threatening food; and cute waiters. m

hurrah! now i know how to spell mezedopolio! m

i liked the meze-however-you-spell-it better: it had a better list of food (and i'm greedy) and was a funkier place to be - i think it used to be a working man's mission hall but it looks really cool. in both places, loads of greek wines by the glass or little flask, so room for experimentation. it's less frenetic and noisy which i prefer, but it's still got a buzz. m

don't know much about them, but the ones i tried here (greek golden wine, i think it was called) and at its sister gaff the mezedopolio (?) were really surprisingly good. and not retsina-ey at all. m

very busy, noisy, lots of sound reflecting hard surfaces. food by no means a priority ... it's yer basic greek fast food, just upped a step or two, hence, uh, souvlaki (pleasant enough), pastourma (cured sirloin, nasty), greek cured ham, octopus in sweetish tomato sauce, good breads. booze absorbent stuff. nice for a piss-up; not so great for a nosh-up. m

ooo-er...

re babi and martinellory's responses: i seem to have turned into that fast show character, the woman men can't hear ...

the old neats is called river walk - has two bits, brasserie and 'fine dining'. the brasserie's not at all bad and full of eye candy, which is always nice. top floor of smith's of smithfield has a brilliant view over the city and stunning (but expensive) organic steaks. the much derided babylon - which i absolutely love, excellently camp space, really friendly staff, modern british food which isn't at all bad despite reports - has a fabulous view over town. plus you get to stroll in the beautiful roof gardens afterwards if you like. wow factor a go-go. conran's coq d'argent has great city views. as does his blueprint cafe (which i like, sorry conran haters) over the river. ubon - nobu's wee brother - is pretty damn' fab and sticks right into the river at canary wharf. and isn't there something called vertigo at the top of the natwest tower? i wish i wish they'd reopen the revolving restaurant at the top of the telecom tower ... m

and the guys behind it (roger moore's son and his permatanned pal) have just bought che, so be afraid ... m

there you go, proof yet again that there's no accounting etc etc etc. i didn't like the curry fry, thought it was like a low rent chicken tikka masala. m

jan moir in the telegraph liked benares a lot, too. (can't do links, sorry.) m

i also loathed and abominated it - so we agree on something, simon ... food disgusting - i had the cod with the eldritch, lentilly mash, too - and staff staggeringly inept. one waiter actually pushed me out of the way as i walked back to my table, while another took the order from the very close next table with his arse poised over my dinner. awesomely bad, and like simon commented, full to capacity.

serves you right for eating okra ... m

so how was it? sexy or pants? or sexy pants? m

Tony, you are right, it is the Tamarind guy. Benares is all Atul Kocchar's fault have you been? really interested in another opinion. m

welcome to egullet ... m

that's know nothing young bag to you, baldy. m

but what does she know? too bloody right m

yep, bond girl would be a great look for jaan ... accessorised by the young sean connery? m