Simon Majumdar

ROYAL HOSPITAL ROAD RAMSAY: A SUITABLE CASE FOR TREATMENT I have to say that when I was invited to have supper at Gordon Ramsay’s Michelin three star place in London, I approached the event with some trepidation based on the risible showing of his eponymous restaurant in Claridges and my own dislike of the man himself. I am pleased to say that while the meal itself was not perfect, it went a long way to explaining to me why the man is held in such high regard. Robin and I arrived some 20 minutes before our other dining companions and took a seat in the small bar area. We ordered two glasses of Lillet which arrived with a tray of exemplary canapés. Small dishes containing a rich cream cheese infused with truffles and an eggplant puree with basil. Both were served with superb game chips. When our friends arrived, we were shown to our table and while we looked at the menu, two selections of pre amuse were brought to us. The first was a small cornet of brandade with salmon and caviar. It was excellent, but not close to as good as the second, a sandwich made of two game chips with a rich foie mousse between. A fine start We ordered from the set menu ( £65 for three courses ) and before our meals arrived an amuse of White onion soup was put in front of us. This is the sort of soup one could eat a huge amount of. Infused with a rich stock and laced with truffle oil, it was sublime. The first courses were a mixed bag. Three of us ordered Pied de Couchon, three slices of pig trotter stuffed with sweet breads and topped with hot seared foie with a fried quails egg. I liked it a great deal but found the celeriac remoulade and green beans that came with it did not offer enough of a counter point to the richness of the dish. Another of us had a signature dish of Langoustine ravioli. Unbelievably good. The other two had the weakest of the starters, a roasted tranche of Foie with a sauternes sauce. I loved the sauce, but the roasting had created a tougher texture with the foie than I, and those who had it would have liked. For the main courses, three of us went for beef and ordered a fillet with sweetbreads and yet another fried quail egg ( yes another, they must have gone long on quail ) on top. It was served with a reduction of the juices with red wine and truffles. While the beef itself was fabulous, the dish as whole did not work for me and I found it to similar to the starter and one note. The others fared better, a three way duck ( rare breast, confit and ravioli ) was served with an exceptional consommé with beetroot. Another of our party had a rare roasted Bresse Pigeon breats that shone with flavour. The star dish for me was the pan fried John Dory with a smoked haddock veloute. This worked on so many levels, that I wish I had ordered it. A pre dessert of Panna cotta enriched with rum came with a sliver of star fruit that had been marinaded in grenadine. It made a welcome diversion from the main meal Desserts were, to my mind anyway the true star turn. Two of us shared a signature Tarte Tatin which was light anf flaky with an intense flavour and served with a great cinnamon ice cream. Others had a coffee soufflé which I did not try and a parfait of orange dusted in almonds ( I think ) which I had rather a lot of. Two of the party had the dessert selection which did exactly what it said on the tin with a small version including a perfectly formed little soufflé being brought in order. A treat While we mulled and turned down coffee, we had more treats popped in front of us. Caramel truffles which I disliked, strawberry ice cream in white chocolate and orange and almond paste finaciers which I didn't dislike. We asked the sommelier to suggest wines for us in the £40 range and he did, though not altogether successfully. A Fixin proved to be too thin and acidic, but a Merlot Planeta was much better and held up well to the rich main courses Service was at all times efficient, friendly and attentive. The bill for six of us came to just over £600 inc which for the standard of food and the quality service is very good value indeed So now I understand better what he has been doing with all that time since he left Rangers. 8/10

two words Drug cartel B'dog - I hear there is a big laundering racket going on down Padstow way and I don't mean keeping Rick's linen pristine S

This reminds me of a sherry that was sold in off licences in the UK in the early 70's In a desperate attempt to make it sound like Amontillado, the sherry had the alluring name of Armadillo sherry and was sold from a huge plastic vat from which you could fill up any recepticle you happened to bring with you be it an old pop bottle or a milk bottle. If I recall it was 10p per pint. S

Rick Stein's Seafood restaurant S

We have a winner!! Railwayman = Stoker Bite worse than bark - Dracula Buffy - vampire slayer Over to the brassy bottle blonde essex girl S

surely the dessert would be 'Waffle served with lots of cheese' I would never eat in an Italian restaurant in London that has POLENTA FRITTA WITH DOLCELATTE, ARTICHOKES AND PANCETTA on the menu!! I mean, the Italians would laugh for days if they saw that in a restaurant! Polenta is only served in rustic restaurants in the mountains. Come on!!!!! That's for Brit poseurs only - you know who you are! And I love cheese - can't stand waffle. OK, now Peter has made sure he's mentioned again, back to the game Another clue. For location think Buffy S

worked for jay Rayner S

wrong riding S

Nope S

Smoked Haddock Fishcake on a bed of mushy peas Fillet of woof with tatar sauce banana split Clue: This railwayman's bite is worse than his bark S

Walnut tree S

Damn straight S

Just why I plan to have Dim Sum tomorrow S

I am heading for Toronto in a few days. The client I am visiting is taking me for lunch and has, as a matter of course been frequenting Chinatown for the last few weeks. He asked me a) If I was going to cancel my visit b) If minded joining him for Dim Sum The answer is a resounding NO to both questions. I can see no reason to cancel my trip nor to pass up to eat some of the best chinese food in North America The question as to whether the US government will let me back into the US afterwards is the real one, but that may have nothing to do with SARS S

zafferano

The man's a critic for a reason hat's off to Blue Harbour Boy. your turn S P.S New Orleans = NOLA (n Sisters - well known Emerald warblers)

Ok, clues US ( Natch ) Chef Spence is on locale. For the orig clue think truncated sisters Starter is a sig dish S

NOLA or one of Emeril's spots...There were more cajun references in that lead than at a hundred Wild Bill swamp runs. Man's getting close S

OK, let’s go international so everyone has a chance ( F**king Padstow!!! ) Cream of Garlic Soup Pecan-crusted Rabbit with Creole Mustard-Tasso Cream Sauce Toasted Pecan Roulade with Caramel Mousse & Praline Syrup Think a truncated group of emerald warblers S

It' s the talented (Mr) Ripleys in Padstow. See it pays to be a publisher S

Monica That is a very well written article Khub Bhalo S

Now if you ever write " The Sinking Chip: The Rise and Fall of Restaurant Magazine" please let me have first option S

See what happens when you turn down someone's pitiful attempt at a first novel Word to the wise Thom, crayon is not the tool of choice for the budding Booker Prize winner S

I have not been to Teca for about five years, but it does not seem to have changed much. The food was always pretty good but it was horrendously expensive for what was presented. The portion control in London restaurants is getting pretty out of hand and must be a result of the staggering increases in rents and rates. I can understand the reasons for these price hikes, but the cynicism with which it is presented is equally staggering. my meal last night at Fino ( see other thread ) is a prime example, but there are so many other culprits ( Cigala - on my last visit, Il Convivio, Passione, MOMO ) and it is becoming an all too rare treat when you get the three simple needs of eating out, Good food, good service, decent prices ( not always cheap but good value for what is served ) S

To rich, good looking asians who get all the best lasses S