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They have both chicken and beef at the original Grand Sichuan, 125 Canal Street, across from Chinatown, just north of the Manhattan Bridge exit. I continue to like this place (which is no longer associated with the other GS restos). The dishes are listed under "Westernized," but they were quite good, if rather sweet. The kitchen is VERY slow, but the results are worth it. I love the whole crispy sea bass. Parking is easy around the corner along the extremely shabby area on Chrystie Street.

I came across Minor's products at Soupbase.com. Has anyone tried their demi-glace or other products? How do they compare with other recommended products, such as: Formaggio Kitchen powdered demi-glace D'Artagnan Aromont Veal demi-glace Demi-Glace Gold from More Than Gourmet Made-from-scratch-over-a-whole-weekend

You can save money by going to an office supply store and buying a big box of rubber bands. Cut them in half and mix them with jellyfish tendrils. Nobody will ever tell the difference.

I hesitate to write about this, because obesity is such a problem. However, two or three drops of top quality vinegar (say Chinese aged Shen si) added to butter not only enriches the flavor but also cuts the heaviness. The result is that you never get cloyed and go on eating forever.

Trinacria, a Sicilian grocery on 3rd Ave. in the high 20s that made the best Italian heros ever, including green olives with pits. Harbin Inn, one of the original Szechuan places at 100th St. and Broadway. If you knew what to ask for, and had been there often enough that they knew you were serious, you could get the real stuff. Vinnie's Focciacaria, recently closed, at 1st Ave. below St. Marks Place -- insalata di mare that blew away the fancy places, and everything perfect. Vincent's Clam Bar in Little Italy. Only for the scungili with super-hot sauce. Szechuan Taste on Chatham Square and East Broadway, for their amazing chicken with orange flavor and prawns with hot spicy paste. Z, on 15th St. before it got discovered and ruined. Manganaro's Hero Boy in the 70s before it took a nosedive. Shah Bagh, the first 6th Street Indian, where I learned to love truly hot stuff. Szechuan, Broadway at 95th, particularly for their gigantic fish with (truly hot) Szechuan sauce full of shrip and scallops. Uncle Tai's Hunan Yuan, for the first month after it opened and Uncle Tai was there, particularly for his amazing duck with young ginger. Sign of the Dove, where my wife and I went to on Thanksgiving every year until it was swallowed by a parking lot and then a brutalist concrete tower. Peking Duck House on Broadway at 67th, which was better than the other branches. Say Eng Look, on the Bowrey and also on East Broadway. The 8 Jewel in Hot Sauce was my favorite of all. Hubert's, down two steps in the 20s east of Broadway. My first and still best rack of lamb. Hong Wah on the Bowery, the identical twin of Hong Fat, but less crowded. I can still taste the Cantonese crabs and the chow fun with preserved beef. The floor collapsed and the entire restaurant fell into the basement. David's French Bread, formerly sold at the David's Cookies and Ice Cream stores. Nothing like it, even at Zabar's. And the awful Mexican chain with a branch on Broadway just below Tower Records, which served the beyond gigantic Ridiculous Margarita (about a quart). Ah, youth.

For me, chicken breast is about as far from wings as it's possible to get. How about deep-fried backs? You should be able to get them for next to nothing, and they crisp up nicely. Pull out the kidneys after they cook, though. A kidney or two is OK, but a bunch of them gets nasty, and they accumulate toxins. For frying, toss in gizzards, hearts and necks, which you can also eat whole after they're crisp. Try roasting a whole chicken breast-down, without a rack so that the meat cooks in the liquids. Take it out when the dark meat is only half or 2/3 done and the breast will remain juicy and as flavorful as possible for this meat. Scrape up the skin and drape it over where the breast was cut away so that it will crisp up as the dark meat finishes.

I think they grow them in glass jars, like the Bonsai kittens [note, this is a hoax, folks]. However, as SuziSushi notes, real bagels are chewy, not soft. Also, unlike the photo, they have a thin, shiny, hard crust. These Not Bagel Shaped Objects (NBSOs) undoubtedly get their cottony texture from a big dose of sugar. The only proper amount of sugar in a real bagel is ZERO. Finally, why square? Round ones fit just as easily into a toaster. NBSOs are too big, too soft and tooth-achingly sweet. Send them to the gallery of unremembered, unlamented lousy products.

More uses for tomato water: Freeze it, partially thaw and whirl in a blender or food processor until smooth. Mix with minced cucumber, red onion and bell pepper as a gazpacho snow cone. Add it to champagne for a Sunday morning cocktail. Poach lean fish (e.g., halibut) in it. When the fish is done, remove it to a platter and reduce the tomato water, then beat in butter or olive oil and finish with fresh chopped tomatoes and basil. Chicken breast is also good this way. The same mix (without fish) reduces to an excellent pasta sauce.

(1) Solyent Green (2) An archaeologist who tasted a long-frozen wolly mammoth said it tasted like mud. (3) Bierce, The Devil's Dictionary: ICHOR, n. A fluid that serves the gods and goddesses in place of blood. Fair Venus, speared by Diomed, Restrained the raging chief and said: "Behold, rash mortal, whom you've bled – Your soul's stained white with ichorshed!"

I love my Hand America 14" smooth steel. I touch up my knives with a couple of strokes on a smooth ceramic rod and then couple more on the steel for an amazing edge. The smooth steel does things you can't get with a grooved steel. I tend to use big knives -- 10" butcher, chinese cleaver -- and the 14" is significantly easier to use than the 10" one for those. It comes with a free half-collar to hold it horizontally (remember to check the box when you order), but I just rest the end on the counter and swipe the knife down. Shipping was a bit slow -- a month -- but it was worth it to get the steel.

I have a perverted taste for Boursin aux fine herbes. Usually they go for around $3, but Zabar's periodically has a 99¢ special, so I stock up and freeze them. The defrosted texture is a bit looser, but the flavor is fine.

Lakka, a Finnish cloudberry liqueur, was mentioned up-string. I'd like to get a bottle as a birthday present for my Scandanavian wife, but it doesn't seem to be imported into the U.S. U.S. sources, anyone?

I have a 12" Wear-Ever (uncoated aluminum) frying pan that I use mostly for roasting. It's not impossibly heavy, and the long handle makes it easy to get hold of than a cast iron pan. A large chicken fits perfectly, particularly when surrounded by mushrooms, (unpeeled) pearl onions and the bottom half of a head of garlic (the tips put in the cavity along with several sprigs of rosemary) and a whole stick of butter.

My favorite is Tapatio. A bit hotter than Tabasco, with less vinegar and a lot more flavor.

So, SweetSide -- Please give us your Good Stuff brands for chocolate and brown sugar.

I have a Unicorn Mini for my briefcase and two Magnums for the prep area and the dinner table. IMHO, they're in a class by themselves. Their various models are here. The Magnum Plus is for ostentatious restaurant use. It's too big for home use. The regular Magnum holds a whole bottle or plastic container of peppercorns. The Peppergun is a nice concept, but hard to operate with one hand. Ditto for the Keytop. Go with the Magnum. The Mini is a compromise -- difficult to fill, hard to operate and with a distressing tendency to come unscrewed and spill peppercorns all over the inside of my briefcase. Nevertheless, it's the only truly portable mill that puts out enough pepper to make a difference. The rest are toys.

Bell pepper puree is very easy to make. 1. Line a roasting pan with a double-size piece of aluminum foil. Put 4 large bell peppers (about 2 pounds) in the pan and roast at 475, turning every 10 minutes with tongs, until they collapse, about 40 minutes. 2. Remove the pan, fold the foil over peppers and let cool. This goes faster if you remove the package to a platter or large plate. 3. Over a seive and bowl to catch the liquid, remove and discard the core, seeds and skin. 4. Put the pulp in a food processor with 2 tablespoons of the liquid and 1/4 teaspoon of salt. Turn on the processor and slowly add 1/2 cup of EVOO. Taste and add salt and oil as necessary. Go easy on extra salt, to preserve the sweetness of the peppers. You can add fresh herbs, cumin, chili powder, garlic, anchovies, lemon juice, pesto, caramelized onion, etc., but the straight version is a pure and wonderful flavor. Make a lot more than you think will be eaten, as it will disappear instantly once guests get a taste. It also freezes well. Red peppers are ripest and sweetest, but yellow ones are also fine. Use only a little bit of green ones, which are young and often bitter. Roast the peppers together but process them separately and swirl them together for serving.

Roasted Bell Pepper Puree Red peppers are ripest and sweetest, but yellow ones are also fine. Use only a little bit of green ones, which are young and often bitter. Roast the different color peppers together but process them separately and swirl them together for serving. Make a lot more than you think will be eaten, as it will disappear instantly once guests get a taste. It also freezes well. 2 lb red or yellow bell peppers (4 large) 1/2 tsp salt 1/2 c extra-virgin olive oil 1. Line a roasting pan with a double-size piece of aluminum foil. Put 4 large bell peppers (about 2 pounds) in the pan and roast at 475, turning every 10 minutes with tongs, until they collapse, about 40 minutes. 2. Remove the pan, fold the foil over peppers and let cool. This goes faster if you remove the package to a platter or large plate. 3. Over a seive and bowl to catch the liquid, remove and discard the core, seeds and skin. 4. Put the pulp in a food processor with 2 tablespoons of the liquid and 1/4 teaspoon of salt. Turn on the processor and slowly add 1/2 cup of EVOO. Taste and add salt and oil as necessary. Go easy on extra salt, to preserve the sweetness of the peppers. You can add fresh herbs, cumin, chili powder, garlic, anchovies, lemon juice, pesto, caramelized onion, etc., but the straight version is a pure and wonderful flavor. Keywords: Hors d'oeuvre, Vegan, Vegetarian, Easy, Dip, Food Processor ( RG1623 )

I'm very happy with my AllClad, which is heavy enough to brown things on all sides by radiant heat. The NY Times did a test two years ago and put the AllClad and the KitchenAid in a dead heat for best. Both are around $150 at Zabar's or Sur la Table. Both come with excellent racks, and for what it's worth, the AllClad comes with two oven mitts. I wouldn't worry about warping. You don't deglaze at that high a temperature.

Here's my synthesis of what's appeared on Drinkboy, the LA Times, eGullet and Chowhound: Gary Regan, "The Joy of Mixology" is the best book http://cocktaildb.com/ingr_browse?category=2 amaro – generic Italian term Agwa – Bolivian liqueur with an attractive bitterness and a slight stimulative effect — contains ginseng, guaraná and (nonnarcotic) coca leaf. Amaro Braulino – strongly herbal, aged Amaro Felsina Ramazzotti – vermouth with bitter orange flavors. Amaro Lucano – decidedly bitter, but without the intensity of Fernet Branca. Very complex, nutty, herbal overtones without a trace of sweetness Amaro Montenegro – similar in weight and bitterness to Lucano, but with a more citrus and nutty, spiced flavors Amaro Nonino – grappa style – complex, warm and round flavors Angostura – cookie-sweet spice (mostly clove) aroma with a winy character – darkens and mellows young spirits (e.g., rum) – compliments bittersweet flavors (tonic water, triple sec, Campari) – with a bit of sugar, balances out bitterness in cheap spirits Averna – dark, with bitterness rounded out by rich fruit flavors, vanilla and sugar – the fullest bodied amaro Becherovka – Czech – sweet with a cinnamon/spice flavor Boonekamp – comes in large bottle (750 ml) but is as strong as rdinary bitters – dark, unsweetened, clove and licorice predominate, with many others in the background Campari – bitter vermouth with a cherry-like aroma. Calisaia bitters (quinine) – made in Spain and Italy, hard to find in U.S. Cynar – sweet vermouth bittered with artichoke. Dubonnet – vermouth flavored with quinine, herbs and spices. Fee Brothers, http://www.feebrothers.com/Product.asp?Category=5 – aromatic (close to Angostura, but has more pronounced cinnamon and clove highlights) – orange – mint (too pronounced for anything but cake frosting) – peach (makes a lovely champagne cocktail, and pairs with fruit juice based drinks quite well, but it gets lost in straight booze) Fernet Branca – dark, pungently bitter with a strong alcoholic kick – numerous herbs, including peppermint – Branca Menta – Fenet Branca with a good dose of mint liquor Jägermeister. Complex herbal flavor; from Germany. Peychaud's Bitters – brighter than Angostura, with more licorice – complex aroma, with anise and root beer Punt è Mes – bitter vermouth. Ramazzotti – medium-dark and quite bitter, but not as intense as Fernet Branca or as round as Averna Regan's Orange Bitters #6 – from D&D or http://www.buffalotrace.com/giftshop.asp – expensive shipping, so order several things – spicy, aggressively flavored with gentian, quinine and cardamom. Other orange bitters are not good. Stirrings blood orange bitters – http://www.stirrings.com/ingredientsbloodorange.php or from Sur La Table, http://www.surlatable.com/ – not as robust as Angostura, Peychaud, or Regan's #6, but more flavor components than Fee's orange. They're non-alcoholic, which limits their intensity, and since they didn't use alcohol to extract the flavors, the flavors are more muted as well. Suze – French aperitif; flavors of gentian, orange and vanilla. Torani Amer – sweet vermouth with orange, gentian and quinine flavors, somewhat reminiscent of Amer Picon, a traditional Basque vermouth not available in this country. Underberg – in single-serving bottles – roundly herbal, and quite pleasant straight

The current Cook's Illustrated (April 2006) pans the Le Creuset Doufeu, asking "Do You Really Need This?" and answering No -- because it's "too efficient" and doesn't leak around the cover like the good old LC Dutch Oven. Bah, humbug. This baby is in a class by itself, and works on the stovetop rather than the oven. I put water on top rather than ice, use less liquid inside and cook it down at the end. The results are ambrosial.

I use the Zyliss, which is the best press I've found. I have large hands and appreciate the extra volume, as well as the cleaner. Never get a press without a cleaner, or you'll end up poking the remainders out of the holes with a toothpick. I also use the Norpro grater/slicer. It's a bit slow on grating, and an annoyance to clean, but it produces perfect, ultra-thin slices and is well worth the low price

The familiar Chinese Double Cooked Pork is, in China, made with belly. In the U.S., you have to ask for it "fatty," and even then many places won't serve it that way. The Grand Sichuan group makes it both ways. I had it at the 9th Avenue/24th St. branch last weekend, though, and it wasn't as good as it used to be. Another good Chinese dish is pork belly with chestnuts -- maybe the richest dish in the world.

Here's my Oxtail Stew, with a whole handful of star anise, which perfumes the entire house.

Being an adult means that you have responsibilities, but also freedoms. If you want to have chocolate chip cookies for dinner, you have chocolate chip cookies for dinner at least once in a while.