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Rogelio

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Everything posted by Rogelio

  1. I have just been having lunch there and I'm amazed, the setting is gorgeous and the food is as good or even better than in the former Kabuki. If you add the wine list, the beer list and the sake list and the superb desserts by Oriol Balaguer, I can say that this is going to be one of the top five restaurats in Madrid for the next years. Just to remind you what we're talking about take a look to the first kabuki post that I wrote about a year ago. This is what I've just had: After some fruits, melon and cherry with our aperitive, then we were served: Salmon escabeche Nice amuse geule while taking a look at the menus Then we chose to have Ricardo sending what he liked and this is what he sent: Lemon fish sashimi with almod oil This was good but the almond oil it's a bit tiring somehow. Gallician blue lobster Slightly steamed in sake and served with a ponzu sauce. So fresh that even if the tail was chopped it was still moving while we were eating it. Delicious is not enough to define it. Asorted gallician shellfish Cocles, two kind of clams, razor clams and oysters. Superb product just delicious. Tuna tartare with angulas (baby eels) and caviar This dish was both superb and delicious, the most luscious dish of the meal. What can I add. Huitlacoche and arzua cheese maki This Abraham García's Viridiana classic works perfectly with Ricardo Sanz's japanese fusion style. Wagyu hamburguer nigiri Delicious mini hamburger, it would have been even better without the rice. Quail egg andf truffle paté Truffle and egg makes a superb combination, and this is now a kabuli classic, same as: Butterfish and truffle pate nigiri You never get tired of this. as good as always. Wok seared wagyu Chilean wagyu, tasty and tender. Last, but not the least, we were served a soup containing the juices from the head of the lobster that we first had, completing the circle at a perfect meal. Japanese style soup with a deep lobster flavour and with the pincer’s meat inside it. Desserts are something else, created by Oriol Balaguer, are worth to save some room for them Seared mango and pineapple with passion fruit ice cream Looking like Adrià's famous squid farcellets, they were both beautiful and refreshing. Chocolate and butter Chocoholic's paradise, believe me. And when we were ready to leave we were served a classic joke, that left us with a wide smile on the face: Chocolate con churros A delicious and finest version of this traditional madrileñian dish. Kudos and good luck to the chef Ricardo Sanz in his new adventure.
  2. Cecina is done with the whole leg and As far as I know bressaola is done with the Round part.
  3. This is the first time that someone praises my pictures It was just another great night at Asturianos, our favourite haunt with all it's particular idiosyncratic personality, kind of you love it or hate it. Don't ask why but we keep wondering why do we come here every single week. We just can't help it!
  4. This is not the first time this happens and the people at El Bulli are aware of it. They'll know how to handle all kind of situations.
  5. According to Manuel Martínez Llopis originally coming from Sudan, the alcúzcuz was a paste made with flour and honey reduced to small round grains and steamed. Since the XIVth century it was an important element in the north African alimentation and was very popular in the nazarie kingdom of Granada, but not in the califates or taifas kingdoms. Néstor Luján explains that according to the Arabic languages dictionary al-kuskus are the little food balls used by the birds to feed their children. Luján also explains the introduction of this dish In France during the kingdom of Carlos the Xth after the conquer of Algeria by the French, Jean Toussaint-Merle a war journalist and theatre author explains in his chronicles from Algeria how this stew is done and it succeeded becoming very popular among the French citizens.
  6. Don't be afraid to go to Rías de Galicia on a Sunday, the quality will be the same. You can always go to Paco Meralgo for some good tapas in a nice atmosfere.
  7. Jabugo Sol seems to be a tourist focused restaurant. For top grade Jamón and lomo stay close to the top brands Joselito, Sanchez Romero Carvajal (5 Jotas) and Carrasco. You can't go wrong with any of these brands.
  8. El Club del Gourmet at El Corte Inglés general stores.
  9. New visit to DiverXO and even better impressions than the first time. The few dishes that didn't work on our last visit have disappeared or have been improved and the new ones are really terrific. New dishes are: Priorat wine dim sum Tasty dim sum with all the earthiness and powerful tones of a good red wine from Priorat, Nita in this case. New Tobanegg As the former version didn't work David has opted for slow cooking the egg and serve it with a toban with the smoked tea steamed chives and wood ear mushrooms as a side dish so you can dip them on the egg. Now it works really well. Cantabric hake with beef tongue and enoki mushrooms. With a punchy Japanese mustard. One could think that the soft flavours from the hake would be overpowered by the strong taste of mustard and beef tongue, but somehow they don't making a delicious and exotic sea and mountain dish. Marinated foie grass with cockles This is the only dish that I didn't understood, I can not say that it was bad but seafood and foie grass is not a combination that works for me. It seems that the restaurant is getting a lot of credit from public and media and if they keep moving forward we will soon be looking at a world fusion food reference.
  10. Abantal and Salvador Rojo seem to be the best options nowadays for modern style andalusian cooking as well as Ab Zait and San Fernando 27 and La Flor de Toranzo (Trifón) and Becerrita for traditional tapas and cooking. There is always Hacienda Benazuza (El Bulli 2) and Alhucemas, both in Sanlúcar La Mayor a few miles away from Sevilla.
  11. Woah, that's comprehensive. Thanks Victor. The only restaurant that I miss is Entre suspiro y suspiro. Has it lost it's original charm?
  12. On the high end Viridiana iand Sacha are open the whole month and Arce and La Tasquita de Enfrente on the first fortnight.
  13. Well, there is Casa Toribio (New Street) in 14 Cardenal Belluga St . who is usually the owner of all the bull's tails fighted at Las Ventas, he also has great anchoives and very good red prawns. Prices are on the high side for a tavern but there is plenty of local colour, specially during the bullfighting season. And it's open on Sundays.
  14. Can Fabes is a great traditional restaurant, but Can Roca is my favourite restaurant in Spain.
  15. Indeed, next to Txistu is Ansorena who is serving one of the best quality meats in Madrid nowadays. Serious stuff without all the football celebrity gossip.
  16. Indeed, but Ronda it is miles away from Sevilla.
  17. Well, I meant the now so popular fussion cuisinne in the way of Nobu, who hasn't got a branch in Spain. And DiverXO is a clear example of this trend. Gastón Acurio opened about a month ago, I'm visiting it this week and will report back.
  18. DiverXo is the restaurant that has been the talk of the town lately. Well, until the arrival of Gastón Acurio from Lima. David Muñoz comes from a good school, formed at Viridiana, our own local fussion restaurant for the last 30 years, wanted to move forward so he headed to London to work at Hakassan and Nobu. Back in Madrid he has just opened a little restaurant in a hiden street from a not very fashionable area. The decoration is almost non existent, but the service is very helpful and dedicated. His cooking wouldn't probably be surprising at NYC or SF but in Spain is really shocking as he revisit traditional spanish dishes with a chinese/asian twist. Dishes are risky and higly ejoyable even if not all of them succesf, but when he does you can see that here's a clever cook with perfect technique and clear ideas. Let's go with the menu: Aperitif were yuca noodles with peas Not really interesting to write about Next came an spanish toltilla maki With poached potato and onion, quail egg yolk with chilli and red bean emulsion. Served with a tea with rum, cocoa and chilli. The dish was funny as it was like eating a Japanese maki but tasting like an spanish omelette. Rabbit and carrot dim sum Made with carrot skin and stewed rabbit with five chinese spices and a carrot salad. Served with a litchis tea. Iberic pork pancetta Dong Po style with tupinambo purée and pak choi (chinese cabbage) in a crunchy greek kataifi dough. This was the first dish that knocked, soft and tasty iberic pancetta perfectly cooked with a surprising twist. Mediterranean prawn Cooked other way round, with juice from its head, yuzu and hot butter. This was probably the best dish of the night. Amazing prawn carpaccio where the fried heads are thrown over so it gets cooked on the plate. Terrific. Bienmesabe de cangrejo. Adobed soft-shell crab and deep fried andalusian style. With fried rice noodles and emmental cheese sauce. I enjoyed this dish as the taste was like andalusian adobed cazón (shark) though some complained because somehow the flavours hadn't properly penetrated the shell. Tuna tartare with empanadilla (Fried dumpling) of Torta de El Casar Good tartare but somehow lacking of the twist from the other dishes. Tobanegg Free range egg cooked in Toban with smoked tea steam chives and wood ear mushroom. And flying fish eggs. This was a failed dish. The waiter explained that the egg was cooked three ways but in the end the egg was broken and eating all at once so you can not appreciated all the work behind, also the other elements created a confusing mix without a proper and leading taste. In the end a very baroque dish. Skate Roasted with string beans and XO (Spanish version) sauce (dried tuna, pata negra ham extract and scallops) Amazing dish with a delicious sauce. I’ve always found that skate has great texture but soft flavour and this dish was superb mixing both. Veal sweetbreads With a soft coriander curry and basil stuffed endives. Another weak dish, the curry was too soft for me. Gallician red cow With mojo Nikkei, this is a canarian sauce with tender barley and broccoli cus cus. Superb meat with a complex and delicious sauce Black Cod With cider and Chinese honey and mussel socarrat rice. Even though it was frozen black cod the dish was delicious, the rice was cooked in the socarrat style created by Raul Alexandre from Ca Sento Celery sorbet With white chocolate ice cream apple and olive oil. Delicious and refreshing, though I don’t see the point of the chocolate on this dessert. Overall it was a great meal, with ups and downs but very good level and some outstanding dishes. I’m willing to repeat.
  19. Please, take a look at all this threads: http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showto...9512&hl=seville http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showto...1851&hl=seville http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showto...0086&hl=seville http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showto...5954&hl=seville
  20. I know two horse butchers, one in Castellón and the other in Santander. They've been there for ages. Time ago when the Creutfeld-Jakob cows disease restaurants like La Broche strarted serving horse meat dishes, but haven't seen them for a long time now.
  21. You have to look at the eyes. If they've got eyes they're are authentic, if they haven't they're not. But the angulas season is between November and February, so I wouldn't trust any restaurant serving them fresh in September. Also visit the product devoted restaurants that will serve them at ultraexpensive prices but you'll know that they're real.
  22. Rogelio

    Paella—Cook-Off 31

    It is traditional on the seafood paellas, ie, arroz a banda or arroz negro (cuttle fish black rice with squid ink). Not on the meat or vegetable ones.
  23. Perretxikos are also called St Georges mushroom. Indeed, Olivares is referred to this sweet red wine. I'm sorry for your dissapointment but these things happens when visiting restaurants, even the top ones have odd days and so do we the patrons.
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