Schneier

Due to some complicated last-minute travel plans, I will be in Paris on Monday night. I'll take dinner suggestions. Price is not relevent. I'm interested in good and interesting. I'll also take company, but earlier is better than later. Thanks, Bruce

I need a favor. I need someone to help me rent a gite in the Loire from mid July through mid October. I can find a lot of gite sites on the web, but I'm having trouble with both the language and the cultural barrier. Is there some local (in France) who can make a few phone calls for me. I'd gladly buy them dinner when I get there. Please. Bruce

Actually, we really liked the Korean restaurant. It was the second best restaurant we've reviewed to date. (Not good that the enthusiasm didn't come out in the review.) And you can read all of my essays and op ed pieces on security here. (I have a new essay on Salon today. Bruce

Who did it?

Yikes. That sounds just awful.

What is CJ's? Bruce

Seems like it. Bruce

I see bubble tea more and more on dim sum cart around the country. Frankly, I don't see the point.

We're reviewing Midori's Floating World tonight for Mix, if you want to come. 6:30. Bruce

You're right about the beef supplier; it's a typo. Bruce

Our eleventh review. Bruce ***** Dining South: Meat sandwiches, Chicago style Karen Cooper and Bruce Schneier, Special to the Star Tribune Published January 7, 2004 Notice the African bazaars, Asian markets, and Mexican panaderías around the area. Even in the far-flung suburbs, the white-bread woebegone Minnesota facade is being replaced by wild new tastes from far-off lands. Well, Chicago, anyway. Chicago Johnny's in Lakeville serves hot dogs. If you want to pass as a Chicago native, order a "hot dog loaded." You'll get the classic Vienna all beef hot dog. You'll get a poppy seed bun, steamed. This will come topped with mustard, a violently green relish (called piccalilli), diced onions, sliced tomatoes, a pickle spear and small mildly hot peppers (called sport peppers). The whole dog is seasoned with celery salt. This combination of color and flavor produces an astoundingly good sandwich. The mustard, onion and peppers have the intensity, the tomato soothes, the bun provides a good bland balance to the wild succulent garnishes, and the dog makes the whole flavor package work. Notice the list does not include ketchup. It's just not done. The roll simply won't be able to answer its call to duty. It will disintegrate during your last few bites, but take it in stride. You're having the authentic, messy experience. There's a roll of paper towels at your elbow for a reason. Should all this seem like a bit much, order a chili dog, with or without onions. Or a cheese dog. You can even get one plain. Italian beef is one of Chicago's lesser-known fast foods. It's basically roast beef, slow cooked in beef broth, usually served in a long roll with various toppings. Italian beef joints are not as common as hot dog stands, but many still dot the Chicago landscape, providing comfort food to the cognoscenti, Italian or no. Chicago Johnny's serves Scada Italian beef, a Chicago standard. You can order it with barbecue sauce or cheese, but we prefer it plain. The only authentic Chicago topping for Italian beef is marinara sauce, which Johnny's does not serve. When we talked to the owner, she said that it was just too messy. We think that messy is the point, and hope she'll reconsider. We like sweet peppers on these, too. You can also order a 'Maxwell Street Polish,' which is a deep-fried Polish sausage with mustard, onions and peppers. Or a meatball sandwich, served with a hot marinara sauce, and optional mozzarella and peppers. Or an Italian sausage, spicier than the Polish and a bit salty, and served with either sweet or hot peppers, and cheese and tomato sauce if you choose. Can't decide? Order the Chicago combo, Italian beef and an Italian sausage in the same roll. We think this is a bit much, but there are people who love it. Chicago Johnny's does not sell fries, although they will be added to the menu in February. Chips is what they've got. The restaurant is nothing much to look at. It's in a nondescript strip mall. There's one counter to place an order, and another against the wall by which to eat. In the back there are some tiny tables. We also consider this part of the authentic Chicago hot dog experience. Except that Chicago Johnny's is cleaner than many hot dog places we've been to. Karen Cooper and Bruce Schneier are constantly on the lookout for good places to eat. If you have a favorite restaurant south of the Minnesota River, please write us at diningsouth@startribune.com.

Why is Condrieu so expensive? It always seems to cost more than comparable whites. Bruce

Thanks for the tip. It is in our review area.

Hasn't anyone been to an M&Ms Colorworks store? You can mix your own batches from about two dozen different colors.

I don't know. I've heard "it will no longer be the same" after every one of their temporary closings. I'm more optimistic. Bruce

I agree. There are several sparkling Loires that provide great value. I generally find myself buying non-Champagnes. Bruce

Germany was discovered last year, although I agree it is still undrerated. I still find great Rioja bargains, although I agree with LOS re the Loire. Bruce

Put it all in your carry-on, and you shouldn't have any trouble.

This is review #10. They delayed it because of Christmas, so it didn't appear until two days ago. In 2004 we're switching to every other week. I just don't think there are 52 restaurants in our area worth reviewing. If they start up another regional section, we may be doing reviews for that, too. Bruce ********* Hoban an excellent introduction to Korean cuisine Karen Cooper and Bruce Schneier, Special to the Star Tribune Published December 31, 2003 Search the Internet for information on Korean cuisine and you invariably stumble across the proverb that you can eat as much Korean food as you want and not gain weight. We doubt that but we can report that Korean food is nutritious, balanced and low in calories. Traditional Korean cooking includes a lot of fish and vegetables. Common seasonings are soy sauce, red pepper paste, soybean paste, ginger, garlic and sesame oil. Rice comes with every meal. Hoban Korean Restaurant in Eagan is an excellent introduction to the cuisine. None of the appetizers were very interesting. Mandoo are fried dumplings; these were too greasy for our taste. Even the bin dae tuk, bean pancakes filled with scallions and seasonings, were greasier than we've seen elsewhere. Stick with the entrees and you'll be happier. Your meal will be served with an array of tiny side dishes, called "ban chan" in Korean. These are all vegetables pickled in some way and served cold. Kim chee is the spiciest of these sides and is fermented Napa cabbage mixed with red chili pepper flakes, garlic, ginger and fish sauce. Other ban chan dishes include a mild cabbage, spicy radish cubes, mild shredded radish, mung bean sprouts, mealy potato cubes and a delicious mixture of spinach and shredded carrots. If you finish any of the dishes, your server will be happy to bring more. Bulgogi is probably the most accessible Korean dish. It's beef sliced thin and barbecued. Hoban's rendition is excellent. The meat is tender and the sauce is slightly sweet and flavorful. Kalbee is another barbecued dish, beef short ribs in sauce. Both come with onions and mushrooms. If you are more adventurous, you can try the Hot Spicy Squid or the Hot Spicy Octopus. Both are stir-fried with vegetables and a sauce. Bibimbob is a single-dish Korean meal. You get a bowl of rice topped with barbecued beef, vegetables and a fried egg. Mix it all together, add hot sauce to taste and enjoy. We suggest the dolsot bibimbob, which is served sizzling in a hot pot. Korean cooking is known for its hearty soups. Jongul is more like a stew filled with meat, vegetables and noodles. We especially liked the seafood jongul, overflowing with seafood, vegetables, tofu and noodles. One of the dishes has "honey comb" on the menu. That means tripe -- beware. We also liked the mandoo kook and tukmandoo kook, both mild soups and both much tastier ways to eat the Korean dumplings. The menu says that the jongul dishes are for two people but three could make a meal of them. Hoban has a lot more to offer. And even though Korea is known for its spicy food, quite a bit of it is mild. On weekdays Hoban has a $6 lunch buffet, which is an easy way to get acquainted with Korean cuisine. Karen Cooper and Bruce Schneier are constantly on the lookout for good places to eat. If you have a favorite restaurant south of the Minnesota River, please write us at diningsouth@startribune.com.

Every year we do a Christmas Party for widows, orphans, and Jews. It'll be starting in two hours. Every year we make latkas (served with bacon, of course--my mother would plotz). 2 cups potatoes, peeled and grated in a food processor, water squeezed out of them 3 beaten eggs 1 greated onion 2 tablespoons flour (or so) 1 teaspoon salt (or so) Mix everything together and make patties. Fry them in a well-oiled skillet. Serve with sour cream and applesauce. Repeat as long as necessary. Happy whatever, everybody. Bruce

But there's a silber lining. There's a class of restaurants that I call New American Bistros. They tend to have small but interesting wine lists chosen and served by a knowledgable staff and reasonably priced. I can think of half a dozen restaurants in the Minneapolis area that do this; I have been to others in many cities. Bruce (Steven, what the hell are you doing up at 5:30 on Christmas morning reading eGullet?)

Burgundy is certainly the hardest wine region to understand, but I wouldn't call it overrated. I think it's rated quite accurately. The trick, like everywhere, is choosing properly. It's just very hard to choose properly in Burgundy.

That statement is so amazingly wrong that I can't believe Parker actually said it. He travels in Europe; he knows better. Bruce

Napa, although it's much more the winemakers than the terroir. Bruce

A friend makes marmalade. We've been known to juice them. Bruce