Andy Lynes

Can I ask how you have arrived at that conclusion? When you say "most 3 star chefs", who of the current crop, in your opinion, knows more than Mikael?

It's not about being above criticism, and I'm not interested in defending Blumenthal. Reading the report made me raise my eyebrows and smile; I'm reporting that reaction. You think its thoughtful, I think the tone is self important and overblown and I think we are just going to have to agree to disagree on that.

Thank you for the kind invitation, but I don't contribute to other food websites - this one takes up far too much of my time as it is!

Its certainly true that Heston is one of the most polite and down to earth people in the UK restaurant industry, which is all the more impressive when you consider his standing and reputation. The truth is that neither you nor I can actually know what his reaction to the report might be, although I wouldn't imagine he would be particularly thrilled with comments such as the use of unseasonal ingredients being "evidence of lack of creativity or imagination or it can be perceived as insecurity or a narrow repertoire of the chef". My comments were tounge-in-cheek - I was amused by the sheer arrogance of informing a three star chef how he might improve his signature dishes. It's a bit like a patient who has been through a few procedures instructing a surgeon how he might do his job better. But who knows, maybe Blumenthal is grateful for the advice.

The lowest form of wit I admit, but my comments were a reaction to what is a rather hubristic review. No offence was intended and I'd be happy to engage in as an intelligent an arguement as I can manage with Mikael or yourself.

Yes, very interesting. Wasn't very happy about the dried morels was he! I'm sure Blumenthal will be very grateful for the tips on his menu and how to be a better chef. Perhaps Mikael could spend some time at the Fat Duck and show Heston a few things.

I'd like to elevate the debate at this point by starting a competition to see who has eaten at the most "Best Restaurants". I'll start with 13 (in 3 countries). Any advance on 13?

A couple on my left had a la carte and were big fans of the restaurant (they told me that they preferred it to Per Se where they said they had recently had an expensive and disappointing meal); the table of two on my right had the tasting menu with some substitutions for the fish-eating vegetarian half of the couple. I got the impression that the chap was a chef who was there to check out the food. When each dish was delivered, he would sit back, look at it for a bit, and let out a sigh of what sounded like extreme boredom. Each time it seemed as though he wasn't interested in eating the dish, then all of a sudden he would demolish the whole thing with not a scrap left on the plate. There was a table of 5 opposite that I'm pretty sure had a la carte, I definately remember them having large portions of the shrimp noodles (one of the highlights of my meal) so it was a mix of the carte and tasting menus, but probably heavy on the tastings. It's just a very buzzy, informal sort of place and my impression was of people dropping in for a bite to eat rather than to embark on a culinary adventure. I found that odd, because I ate some of the most challenging and unusual food I've had anywhere, and it therefore wouldn't be my first choice for a casual meal out. But then we are talking about New York and this is the 21st Century after all.

As I understand it, it will contain a bio, pictures, recipes etc but we'll just have to wait and see. I have hesitated in reporting about my meal at WD50 for the simple fact that I have been commissioned to write a piece about the restaurant and I cannot risk spilling words here that belong in a paid-for article. What I can say is that I told chef Dufresne that my inaugural meal at the restaurant was like listening to Captain Beefheart for the first time. There was something on every plate that confounded and bewildered me. I told him that I had been reduced to a child-like state; that, despite having eaten my way around a good part of the planet, I couldn't really understand what it was that I was putting in my mouth. It was an intruiging experience, one that made me wonder about Dufresne's and Mason's creative processes, about where all this stuff came from. It made me question modern cuisine and my reaction to it. It wasn't a simple meal. But maybe that was because I was over complicating it - many tables around me seemed to be simply enjoying it. I'll get back to you on this.

I don't know if this is recorded anywhere, but I seem to recall either reading or being told that the "Rob's Faves" menu at Feenies was partly inspired by White Spot, so if I'm correct, its not as though this move is totally out of the blue.

That is low Ms Cavendish, very low.

The door, is of course, wide open.

A message from Rob Feenie: "Good afternoon everyone, First, thanks to all of you who are contributing to this thread. I enjoy EGullet immensely if I get the chance to read it. Some of you out there seem a little disturbed by my recent partnering with the White Spot restaurant group, but I feel you may have the wrong impression about my motivation to do these ads. When White Spot, a beloved institution and childhood favorite of mine, approached me to appear in their ads I immediately said yes- no managerial input required. I have fond memories of eating there, and visiting my brother when he worked there as a car hop as a teenager. This is a chain that has endured the times and trends and recently celebrated their 75th Anniversary. I hope we are all lucky enough to be in business for that long. We all talk about wanting to support each other and help local business and it is forums like this that allow us all to share our expertise and insights and make things better. Isn’t that what this is about? Having good food at all levels? Do I have to act a certain way simply because I have these plaques outside my restaurant? I hope these commercials show a sense of community and fun. I am proud to support White Spot in their new venture and I look forward to their continued success. Haute cuisine or hamburgers- I love both and will continue to support those who are looking to improve BC dining. Cheers, Rob"

For those that are interested, my article on Heston's collaboration with Hampton Court Palace appears in the May edition of History Today. Unfortunately, only a small part of it is available online.

Restaurant Magazine builds 'em up, Evening Standard knocks 'em down. Lucy Cavendish - just doesn't get it or the voice of reason?

Liam Gallagher was interviewed on last nights "Extra Portions" show on ITV2 and said about Rhodes (and I paraphrase) "I saw him on Richard and Judy a couple of years ago and he sounded like a little girl, now all of a sudden he's got a gun in his pocket."

Thoughts on my meal coming soon, but in the meantime, you might like to book mark this page for future reference. Launching next month I believe.

indeed the sun today has lined them all up with their celebrity counterparts. ← Glad to hear I'm thinking along the same lines as that most august organ. Maybe I've missed my true super soar away vocation.

Restaurant Magazine today confirmed that Tomasina will work at the Petersham Cafe from May. You see, I know these things. Trust me.

Well spotted. She is obviously the Edwina substitute, and Stein is the Al Murray type and Sam is the Abby character etc etc.

Suffereing from dispair, disaffection, languor, lassitude and lethargy? Don't exert yourselves in new stimulating debate, simply click here for last years thread! Enjoy.

I really enjoyed my take out from White Spot, the chocolate shake was especially good. I'm not sure if this is going to hurt Feenie's credibility as a fine dining chef or simply widen his customer base. There isn't really the same conflict of interests here as when Bayliss pimped for Burger King - its more like Ramsay advertising Walkers crisps in the UK (although that ad was pulled very quickly and he hasn't appeared in another one.)

...which, roughly translated, means "what iz left in zee walk-in freedge zat moaning" (thats JC doing his Inspector Clouseau impression BTW.)

Some of JC's menu is also getting on a bit - the mushrooms in poppy seed pancake and lamb cutlets topped with cheese soufflé both appeared on his Four Seasons Park Lane menu back in the early 90's. Nothing wrong with that though, both are nice dishes. He was also using chorizo and other flavoured oils, lemongrass as a skewer and serving "pomme carlos" with fillet of beef, so I think we can allow Rhodes his haddock and bread and butter pudding.

Exactly that. I think right now is a fascinating time to dine out. We are living through a period of particularly rapid change and experimentation in restaurants, the pace of which has been accelerated by the internet and cheap air travel. There is a worldwide avant garde movement, that is reflected in the list, that is as important, and irrelevent, as nouvelle cuisine. Something will eventually come of it, but I don't think we are quite there yet. In five or ten years time, we will know if any of it has true meaning. In addition, I think the magazine will refine the way in which it compiles the list and it will have more credibility and be genuinely global in scope. I hope to see the best restaurants in China, Japan and Thailand on future lists. Why there is nothing from Canada is a mystery and I'm sure the good people of New Zealand will be frustrated not to be included. I think its just a matter of asking enough people in enough countries, although I am sure that is easier said than done.