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TN: Mostly French


Florida Jim

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2005 Jean-Pierre et Jean-François Quenard, Chignin Anne de la Biguerne:

A beautiful, complex, elegant wine from the Savoie with floral and white fruit smells and flavors, good acidity and substantial concentration. It’s racier than the 2005 Chignin from André et Michel Quenard and more focused but both are charming wines and delicious with lighter fare. 12% alcohol, imported by Charles Neal Selections and about $10; I’d buy more if I could find it.

2005 Dom. La Casenove, Côtes Catalanes La Garrigue:

Extracted, tannic wine that is meant for heavy food and red meat; plenty of red and black fruit flavors but its ponderous and just too tannic for me. 14.5% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and about $12; I won’t buy it again.

2005 Clos de la Roilette (Coudert), Fleurie Tardive:

When first opened, it is a delight with supple, satiny textures and great red fruit aromas and tastes; after about an hour the tannins start to suck-up the flavors and turn this into a firm, rustic textured thing that is obviously well endowed but needs cellar time.

Day two: even better than upon first opening; depth, character, integration but still plenty of flair and intensity. A dream of what the best Fleurie can be; one that comes true.

13% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $20; I bought plenty.

2004 Las Rocas, Rosado:

A rosé of old vine grenache that is scented with strawberry and stone; tastes juicy and bright and has a nice clean, flavorful finish. A delightful, tank fermented wine for sipping without food or for light lunches. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and about $3; I buy it by the case.

1998 Michel Lafarge, Bourgogne:

Young, tannic and tight on opening – as though one were tasting in a fog; later it comes more together and emphasizes its earthy, powerful fruit and its Volnay roots. A flavor-filled drink but only when given sufficient air and good food to accompany. Deserves further cellar time. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Chelsea Ventures and about $15, on sale; I bought all I could at that price.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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