WTN: 2004 Vesevo Beneventano Aglianico

[Brad Ballinger]

2004 Vesevo Beneventano Aglianico, Campania IGT. 100% aglianico. Fermented in stainless steel. Aged in barrique for six months. Vesevo is an ancient spelling of Vesuvius. When I vacationed in Ravello for one week in 2000, I puchased a couple of Beneventano Aglianico wines (don't recall the producer) at the supermarket for about $1.50 (U.S.) each. My wife and I were renting a villa, cooking many meals in, and I needed serviceable "pasta wine." Last night, I was in a pizza mood and wanted "pizza wine." I paid ten times more than $1.50 for it, but it was worth more. Nose of bright, bright brambly fruits, including the brambles. In the mouth, an initial burst of freshly picked blackberries, giving way to some earthy elements, dusty tannins, and a small (bearable) bit of oak. Had a bit of a rustic edge that was not displeasing, and put it firmly in the "pizza wine" category for me. I'd have it with pizza again.