Travel

[Suvir Saran]

“I found myself remembering, with the love of a real patriot, a journey that I had made across India. My first American sweetheart, Will, and I were traveling by train; this must be ten or eleven years ago now. What an incredibly diverse landscape India has. We had given up our First Class Air Conditioned seats to go Second Class Unreserved. Will, as aristocratic as an American can be, wanted to experience the "real India", like Gandhi. So, there we were, two well dressed men of obvious wealth, sitting on a train so crowded with poor farmers that it was practically bursting at the seams. We were both a little scared of being attacked or ostracized in some way for our wealth and difference but, in truth, we found ourselves to be the center of this incredible love and attention!”

“We had our own individual berths but we gave up one because there were so many people who had no place to sit. The chaat vendors were moving in and out of the train at every station, selling to the passengers. Normally I would have bought something but all of these horrendously poor families in our car were offering us food. After a lot of complaining (I had never done this kind of thing before) I finally agreed to taste my first bite of food given by a stranger. Will was far more adventurous: perhaps that’s part of the freedom of being an American. But once I had rid myself of my initial fear, I couldn’t get enough of those delicious bites. They didn’t taste like anything I’d ever eaten before. In any event, we couldn’t say no: it would have been taken as snobbery. In the end, we were bursting with food that we had been given by every family sitting with us in that section of the car. I didn’t want the trip to end. I wanted to savor every dish – to understand deeply what made such humble, simple food so tasty and rich. These were dishes made by families with very few resources. Their foods weren’t laced in fat; they’re not garnished to the n'th degree. With few ingredients and even fewer spices, these people had made every dish a celebration. So in some ways, I find this fourth of July to be my own day of peace with the India I never love when I’m living in its lap.”

Every person that has ever traveled in the Indian train system, and allowed themselves to become a part of the life of these cars, must have their own similar stories as the one above.

Any stories you have?

Any foods you must carry when you travel?

What makes them special for travels?

[Suvir Saran]

When Indians travel, they always have many goodies with them. Snacks, pickles, sweets and candy. In fact, I was amazed at how a friend of mine that lives between her many homes spanning a few continents landed in Morocco the same time as me a couple of years ago.

It was a pleasant surprise that led to a great holiday for all of us. What tickled me most was that every time we traveled from our hotel to some ruin or show, she would bring out an endless assortment of goodies that she had been carrying since she left India a few weeks before she got to Fez.

It is this craving for food from home that has made Indian chefs think of dishes that can travel and foods that can heal a mind that is not home. A little imagination, some thinking and a creative pantry is the answer to a travelers cravings.

[Suvir Saran]

- Most recipes for travel munchies are very low in oil. This keeps from having stains in your clothing. Always remember this one basic rule.

- Plan on recipes that will stay fresh for a few days. You never know when you may choose to stay another day.

- All recipes should be as low in liquid and moisture as possible. Again this makes them easy to keep in a handbag and not worry.

- All foods must be easy to handle and friendly to a large audience. Like what happened in Morocco to my dear friend, you never know who you may run into.

[Suvir Saran]

- Individual portions in multiples of 4 are great. This makes it easy for you to share your goodies with a bunch. A multiple package of 4 is great as you can then eat the same thing a few days later.

- In India we wrap these with dried leaf plates and wraps. Wooden spoons made with recycled wood are available there. You should simply wrap in foil or wax paper and carry plastic silverware. And always some handy wipes.

[Suvir Saran]

And how could I forget.... Something so many Indians do.

- Carry some red chili powder, chaat masala or any of your favorite flavorings. These are great to add on bland foods you may find at restaurants. In an air tight and leak proof container you can also carry a pickle you love. This will make for a very versatile condiment. Great as a sandwich filler. One can always find bread in most remote places

[Suvir Saran]

Theplas (Fenugreek Scented Flat Bread from Gujarat)

1 cup chapati flour (whole wheat flour)

1/4 cup chaawal kaa atta (rice flour)

1/4 cup besan (gram flour)

1/2 bunch haraa dhaniya (cilantro), washed and chopped very finely

1 bunch haree methi(fenugreek leaves) or substitute with Kasoori Methi, washed and chopped finely

1/4 haldi (turmeric powder)

1 1/2 tsp. laal mirchee (red chili powder)

1 tsp. til (sesame seeds)

1/2 tsp. zeera (cumin seeds)

3 green chilies, minced very finely

2 tbsp. canola

salt to taste

Flour for dusting

Canola to shallow fry

Mix all three flours together and sieve. Use a fork and mix the flours nicely. Set aside.

Mix all ingredients except the oil for shallow frying.

Knead into a soft pliable dough using as much water as required. Use your knuckles and your wrists to really knead the dough well. The more you knead the softer and more pliable the dough will get.

Divide this dough into 12 equal rounds.

Roll these rounds into circles, about 6" in diameter. Use flour to dust the circles as you roll them.

Heat a skillet or a griddle, shallow fry these circles by applying a little oil on both sides. Fry until cooked. Drain on paper towels and let cook to room temperature.

Repeat for all 12 rounds.

Store these flat breads in an air-tight container.

Eat with a pickle of your choice or with some raita.

Note: You can also buy Theplas at most any Indian store.

[Suvir Saran]

Sookhee Simla Mirchee Kee Sabzee (Dry Spiced Bell Peppers)

2 large Simla mirchees (green bell peppers), washed and medium diced with seeds left in

1 tsp. laal mirchee (red chili powder)

1/2 tsp. pisaa dhaniya (coriander powder)

1/2 tsp. haldi (turmeric powder)

1 tsp. sugar

1/8 tsp. heeng (asafoetida)

1/2 tsp. rai (mustard seeds)

1 scant tsp. zeera (cumin seeds)

1 tbsp. canola

salt to taste

1 tbsp. besan (chick pea flour)

1/2 tsp. amchur (dry mango powder)

Heat the canola in a Kadai or a frying pan.

Add the cumin and mustard seeds and cook until they splatter. Add the heeng and cook for another few seconds.

Add the peppers and stir fry for 4-5 minutes.

Add all ingredients, except besan and the amchur and saute for another couple of minutes.

Now add the besan and the amchur and saute stirring continuously for 3-4 minutes.

Taste for salt and let the dish cool completely.

If traveling with this dish, make sure you completely cool this dish before you store it. It is great with all Indian flat breads. Especially Puris.

[Suvir Saran]

Chivda (Indian Trail Mix)

1/2 cup corn flakes for frying (or use 2 cups of prepared cornflake cereal)

3 tbsp. peanuts

2 tbsp. broken cashewnuts

2 tbsp. golden raisins

2 green chilies, quartered

16 curry leaves

1 tsp. red chili powder

3 pinches citric acid powder

1/2 tsp. sugar

salt to taste

canola for deep frying

Deep fry the corn flakes in hot oil till crisp and an opaque white.

Drain on paper towels. Set aside in a large plate.

Repeat these steps for the remainder of the flakes.

In 2 tablespoons hot oil fry the peanuts, cashews, curry leaves, raisins, green chilies till nuts are a nice golden color and chilies are dry.

Drain them all on paper towels as well. When cool, add to the fried flakes.

Sprinkle all remaining ingredients over the flakes.

Use your hands to mix the spices and the flakes gently but thoroughly.

Cool completely before storing in an airtight container.

[Simon Majumdar]

I once made a 24hr journey from Bombay to Calcutta on the Gitanjili Express ( named for the sublime poem of Tagore )

I, in a moment of madness, thought that it might be a "romantic" way to see Mother India to travel in class 3. I booked three months in advance only to find that when I went to collect my ticket, that my booking was to be on the waiting list!! The first class cabin was however almost empty and was only £50. So, I soon ditched the idea of romance and went for what comfort was on offer. Not much by those of us softened by getting on a plane and turning right, but by the standards of other classes, absolutely luxurious.

During the journey I befriended a young couple from Bombay who were going to live in Calcutta and they were kind enough to feed me the whole way there. The food was of a bewildering variety and had been made for them by various sisters, aunts, mothers and grandmothers all of whom had come to the station to wave off their children with much wailing and tears and invocations to Ganesh.

Everythime I thought that they had run out, the young woman would produce some incredible new dish for me to try and by the end of the journey, I must have sampled about 30 dishes.

I recall most of the dishes vividly

Cauliflower Pakora

Samosa

Fish tandoori Rolls

Pickled Carrots

Turmeric rice balls

Home made paneer

Lime Pickles

Hot and sour sweet Pea Aubergine

and

Sweets, including Gulab Jamun, dhoi, Shrikand ( which the well prepared couple kept between ice packs in a freezer bag )

The one dish that really lives with though is one I have never been able to get close to recreating. It was a dish of chickpeas in a rich and fiery gravy which had fenugreek and chilli and a number of other things. it was topped with a yoghurt and sprinkled with Chaat mix. It was indescribably good and I would love any ideas for somehting similar

S