Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons

[Suzi Edwards]

sadly not staying over...have left those arrangements in the hands on my best friend (whose 30th we are celebrating) i guess i should check up on that.

i'm sure i could just check this on their website, but is it easily cabbable from oxford?

*crossed fingers cos there's not other way i'm getting there*

[tony h]

Its not actually in Oxford - but several miles to the south. Traffic in Oxford is always a pain - more so in this case at its the road to London. So, any ride will take ages & cost a lot. if you do it in less that 30 min think yourself lucky.

btw - they do have space to land a helicopter

[Jon Tseng]

Cabs about twenty five quid

There's a bus out to great milton you can catch in the morning (about every hour or so) but don't run back to oxf afternoon/evening

Good food, service, ambience. Only warning I'd make is portion size tends to be small - remember to stock up on the bread!

Service is compris, in the french style, which is a nice touch

J

[Stigand]

Have been there twice in the last year or so, most recently at the end of May.

I'm very fond of it. BLH's comment about consistency being its only flaw is very well put.

One other thing to add if you are going a la carte: there's normally something on the menu designed to showcase the veggies from their extensive gardens - often a risotto - and unless the weather has been really miserable, it's usually worth tasting.

[Suzi Edwards]

btw - they do have space to land a helicopter

i wish...

[Jonathan Day]

I very much want to get back to Le Manoir.

We last dined there in, I think, 1992. I really wanted to like this place and still do. The concept of a fine hotel, fine restaurant, cookery school, garden is very attractive. The setting is lovely. But the meal we had was frightfully expensive, and rather "blah", both in concept and in execution.

So I'm hoping a return visit will completely change my memory of Le Manoir.

[Suzi Edwards]

i'm hoping it's going to be very classical. that's my aim for the rest of this year...to really explore the classical french cuisine to better understand what these avantgarde chefs are doing.

i was very impressed that moby could point to a dish being placed at the table next to us at the fat duck and explain that it looked like a perfectly classical presentation but the menu description was very innovative. there's something about understanding what's being challenged. i think it'll change the way i approch my eating.

[Stigand]

i'm hoping it's going to be very classical.

I'm not sure whether I'd call the Manoir classical, at least in terms of what they put on the plates.

It's certainly not as classical in this respect as, say, Le Gavroche, where the menu includes dishes more often seen in 1904 than 2004. (There's an ancient thread on Le Gavroche on which Wilfrid waxed lyrical about the Artichauts Lucullus - I went there last year and he was right - despite being retro they totally rock.) This isn't to say it's avant garde (no liquid nitrogen or gas-masks); I'd say that on the innovation-o-meter it ranks close to somewhere like Gordon Ramsay RHR (perhaps marginally less whimsical - e.g., no cornettos).

One other (non-food-related) thing they do very well: the tranquility of the place never fails to impress me. When I was last there I had spent two and half hours fuming through bank holiday Friday traffic (silly me). But the moment I parked and stepped into the gardens (someone was playing croquet - welcome to Oxford...) I felt like I'd been there for days.

[Gareth]

I was last there about 2-3 years ago. I remember a fabulous meal (genuinely the closest I have found - outside of GR@RHR - to an English restaurant touching the quality of best in France...). I also remeber my wife blushing to her roots (nicely offset by a white summer frock) after innocently suggesting to M.Blanc that he might want to rent rooms by the hour (she meant in order to enjoy the post-prandial siesta demanded by an untterly replete stomach, honest...).

Further evidence of Raymond's culinary talent was exhibited in the Observer magazine recently, since anyone who can seduce a lady as glamorous looking as his partner whilst wearing a sky-blue nylon pringle jumper must possess incredible compensating attractions.

Anyway, the good news is that we're heading back in the middle of July for a joint birthday party, so I will be able to provide an up-to-date report on the quality of food, the minimum rental period for rooms, and any satorial initiatives from the proprietor...

[Suzi Edwards]

Ah, le Manoir. I've finally found a reason for sunny Sunday afternoons.

It was a beautiful day when Emu (best friend of Tarka) (we also have a friend called Frog. It's like Wind in the Willows when I cook supper) and I set off for the dreaming spires of Oxford and a date with Barry Manilow. The train part of the journey to Oxford isn't that bad to be honest. Admittedly it's further than Bray...but I was pleasently surprised. I was having a bit of an "oh isn't the British countryside so lovely" time, what with not getting to be here so much at the moment, so the journey was really quite lovely.

We'll gloss over the cab ride to Le Manoir as it was hot, sticky, bumpy and expensive. But future travellers might want to think about organising a private hire car from Oxford...

A couple of glasses of champagne later we didn't really care about the taxi ride and we were munching on some lovely olives and bartering over the menu.

Emu "Well if you have the langoustine canelloni, I'll have the foie but then what can we do about the spring vegetable risotto appetiser? (for I had made her read this thread and the exhortations of my wiser collegues to eat my veg when dining here)

Suzi "We could have the tasting menu. They're on there"

Emu "But the roast suckling pig isn't"

Suzi "Hummm. Nor are the veal sweetbreads"

Both sip champagne contemplatively and eat another olive.

Suzi (filled with the spirit of Moby) "I know. We'll add the risotto as an extra course."

Emu "Are you allowed to do that?"

Suzi *nods*

And you know, we made the right choice.

Our amuse was a salmon jelly of such surprising sweet fishiness as it melted on the tongue that Emu and I looked at each other and grinned. Huge grins of the sort that we hadn't really done since we were undergraduates dancing and watching the sun rise listening to "Chime" by Orbital at a Downing College event.

Starters were even better. Emu's foit gras parfait with rhubarb compote and ginger brioche smelled so divine that my mouth was watering as Aurelian, our waiter, was serving her bread. My langoustine canelloni was beautifully poached and wrapped with an-if-i-was-being-critical-maybe-slightly-too-thick-fresh pasta but the roasted langoustine and pan fried scallop of almost Gagnaire-esque sweetness more than made up for it.

And then we had the risotto. I don't think I've eaten such fresh vegetables. There were peas, tiny baby courgettes, spring cabbage, onions and a selection of fresh herbs. It sparkled on the tongue it was so fresh. I've never had such a perfect risotto. It managed to be slightly cheesy and creamily unctuous while simultaniously being the freshed tasting thing I have ever eaten. If I were Michael Winner I'd call it historic.

This was always going to be a hard act to follow, and my veal sweetbreads didn't do that well. The sauce was over reduced and the sweetbreads were just fried, rather than being slightly coated and then fried. Am sure this is the working class girl in me coming out, but I really like them when they look like something you'd get from a very high class KFC. Ahem. However my dish was redeemed by yet more of the beautiful vegetables, this time some courgette flowers, more spring cabbage and a puree of cauliflower with hazelnuts. Emu's suckling pig was better than the sweetbreads. I'd love to be able to tell you what it tasted like. But I got to taste such a tiny, tiny piece of it I can't rightfully comment.

Feeling buoyed up we went for the cheese cart. And it was at this point I realised I've been in the US for too long. I tried to order "off cart" basically begging poor Aurelian to go and have a ferret around the kitchen for some Epoisses for me. AND HE WENT. I love this man. He came back empty handed, so I had to make do with some exceptional Brillat-Saverin, Tete de Moins, Bresse Bleu and Roquefort. There was one other, but I was deep in fromage-ecstacy by this point....

We really couldn't manage desert. But the migardises (a nut tuile, a tiny orange scented chocolate flan, some nougat and a truffle) more than made up. We literally collapsed on the sofas and begged them to call us a cab.

And we rounded the evening off with pimms and dancing while watching the sunset over Barry Manilow. I guess that's what you call growing up :-)

[MobyP]

Emu's suckling pig was better than the sweetbreads. I'd love to be able to tell you what it tasted like. But I got to taste such a tiny, tiny piece of it I can't rightfully comment.

By 'eck lass - it's time like these that we find out what real friendship tastes like!

Beautiful review. Wish I was there so much it hurts.

[tony h]

We really couldn't manage desert. But the migardises (a nut tuile, a tiny orange scented chocolate flan, some nougat and a truffle) more than made up.

shame - desserts is one their major strenghts

suppose you'll just have to go back again, soon

glad you enjoyed - 'tis a magical place

[robyn]

I very much want to get back to Le Manoir.

We last dined there in, I think, 1992.  I really wanted to like this place and still do. The concept of a fine hotel, fine restaurant, cookery school, garden is very attractive. The setting is lovely. But the meal we had was frightfully expensive, and rather "blah", both in concept and in execution.

So I'm hoping a return visit will completely change my memory of Le Manoir.

You can't go home again. If it didn't work for you the first time - chances are it won't the second. Never does for me (the first non-extraordinary meal always seems to poison the second meal).

I went to Le Manoir once - in 1987. It was expensive. But I didn't have any problems with the food (my husband and I had an offal tasting menu and it was superb). I did have a problem with what the room cost. Once you get out of cities - it's nice to stay in a restaurant with rooms. Saves you the agony of finding your way home on unfamiliar unlighted roads after too much to drink. Preserves the safety of the local inhabitants . You simply stumble upstairs - and fall into contented sleep. But the charge for the rooms should be in line with what the rooms are (which is frequently less than what the restaurant is) - plus a reasonable premium for convenience. At Le Manoir in 1987 - the room we had was kind of a step or two above comfy cabin at Four Seasons prices. Perhaps that has changed after all these years. I would hope so.

Note that while I consider Le Manoir to be a restaurant with rooms - there are also terrific hotels/resorts with excellent (if a step or two below world class) restaurants. With these places - the facility is a destination in its own right - and the excellent restaurant is a bonus. A place like Gidleigh in Devonshire falls into this category (I thought it was terrific when I was there - best lamb I ever had - don't know what it's like today - but I'd check it out). Ditto with Inverlochy Castle. With a place like Chewton Glen - the food was mediocre when I was there - but perhaps it's improved (the rooms were lovely and I remember Chewton Glen as being my first exposure to luxury toiletries in a hotel room - OTOH - most guys - like my husband - OD on the chintz at Chewton Glen). There are places in the Lake District that reminded me of the Rocky Mountains decades and decades ago (undistinguished rooms and food but the surroundings are so beautiful you don't care). These days there are supposed to be some up and coming places in Wales (we had a good trip there - but a horrible late fall storm with tons of rain and gloom that lasted for days made me feel like I was in a low budget horror movie ). And I've seen some new places in the UK in design magazines that must be fabulous if the food is anywhere as good as the rooms look.

Anyway - I guess this is a long way of saying that not only can't you go home again - you don't have to. Robyn

[Jonathan Day]

Robyn, if a poor or mediocre meal poisoned future visits for me, I'd be in trouble, since I end up with repeat visits to many places, in the UK because of business entertainment and in our corner of France because that's where we so often stay. I'd say that at least 40% of the time there is some improvement on the second visit. An example would be the Moulin de Mougins, which plummeted from three well deserved stars to one scarcely deserved. We dined there a few years ago and it was bad and expensive. We heard reports that it had improved, regained its second star, and returned for lunch right before Roger Vergé had sold it. It was far better, though I'm not sure I would have given it the second star were I an inspector.

I'd go further to say that I hesitate to "review" any restaurant until I've been there more than once -- a rule I often break, but not a bad one if you are serious about evaluating a place's performance. Even at the 3 star level there's enough random variance from one night to the next that either a rave or a pan based on a single visit may not be useful to others.

Have stayed at Gidleigh Park multiple times (good food, lovely setting), ditto Chewton Glen (food sometimes good, usually blah).

The appeal of the Manoir is its focus on gastronomy -- a serious chef, rather than a hotelier, at the helm; the gardens; and the cookery school. So I'll definitely be back.

[Scott]

was there on saturday night, was less impressed.

will write more soon.

[Scott]

went along with the wife to le manoir on saturday night, and had the menu gourmand. A snip at £95.

the evening was a contrast between what was right and what was wrong for me.

First off it is a very good restaurant, but slightly below what it thinks of itself.

we were led into the lounge for an aperitif prior to taking your table, I get the impression this is mandatory. This would be fine if it did not have the atmosphere of a library.

we were eventually given menu's - after about 25 minutes. all looked good, and we ordered the 7 course degustation.

perusing the wine list, I noted 2 things:

1. there was a lot of pages, but a lot less real choice.

2. the wine list has the highest gp I think I have ever seen. ever. there were no bargains, or good choices just ridiculous thievery.

Few bottles under £35 and those that were, barely worth the effort. I am going to go off now, so bare with me

It was a special occasion so I needed to order regardless, I couldn't use my fall back of "f*** you, bring me water", so I made the best of it:

A half bottle of Rully - £23 (retail £6). When opened had a strange fungal, autolytical note, I commented that I didn't think it was corked, but neither did it strike me as correct. Our waiter came back and informed me the sommelier agreed that it was probably oxidised and proceeded to pour the wine. Any other time, I would not have accepted this - The wine was below par, take it back - but not tonight.

A half of sauterne I accepted a recommendation a 96 half, I hadn't noticed the bottle but the bill showed a different not so good (and more expensive) one. I had thought it lacked richness, and when I saw the bill I realised why, it wasn't what we ordered. what the hey, it was only £43 for a half of wine obtainable for less than a tenner.

then a bottle of Burgundy, just basic Givry - £49 for a £12 wine. rock and roll people.

enough of that, but I was not impressed.

Whilst we sat in the overly coiffured lounge, a small plate of canapes was presented to us which were delicious. I was annoyed to recall on the menu, they were considered a 'course'. That always rankles with me, a pre-desert is not a course, an amuse is not a course, and f***ing coffee is not a course, here there was nothing served that was not listed on the menu as a course.

Having moved to a beautiful table in the dining room looking onto the gardens I noticed that the dining room was much more romantic and atmospheric in the evening than the day.

I don't have the menu in front of me, so please bare with my rough recollection

~

Gazpacho

this didn't have the customary richness I expect from a first rate gazpacho, but it did have impeccable balance and hinted at a complexity of flavour trying to burst through. This was a lovely refereshing start.

~

Pan fried scallop on sauce vierge

this too had a lovely sweetness, well complemented by cannellini beans in the sauce giving a nice satisfying meatiness and texture.

~

Poached cornish Brill in lemon verbena beurre blanc

the brill was cooked perfectly, and the sauce reminded me of a delicate thai green curry sauce. Substitute verbena for grass... this was complex and interesting. My only complaint was the shape of the bowl and the fork provided didn't allow me access to the remaining sauce in the bottom.

~

Roast anjou squab with a capuccion of white beans

ungenerous as the squab was the size of a single frogs leg. The meat was a little overcooked and tough. Uninteresting flavour combination and the textures didn't press any buttons either. dull.

~

Poached peach in sauternes

absolutely lovely, supremely well balanced, and less than a mouthful. it was a pre-dessert. pity as it was far superior to the actual dessert.

~

Chocolate fondant with amaretto ice cream

perfectly acceptable and slightly dull choc fondant with blanched almonds and pistacchio's. could, and have, had similar in any number of restaurants. Had a better, almost identical dish at Aurora in the Gt Eastern Hotel 2 weeks ago.

now was waiting for the birthday cake I had ordered.

waiting

waiting

waiting

****'s have forgotten

waiting

let's call it 20 minutes.

We ordered coffee, and asked if we cared to retire into the lounge. No, I thought perhaps if we stay it will remind them they we are still waiting for something.

Another 20 minutes passed and the coffee arrived with the cake. hooray. by which time I just wanted to leave, and they boxed it up.

Seeing as they charge plenty for these cakes, and they have to be ordered days in advance, I was not overly impressed. could you guess?

This was just another example of the service not really being up to snuff, not bad, not great, just not quite. there were at least 3 proper service faux pas.

the bill was horrendous, the food was good to very good (which is not good enough), the service erratic, the wine criminal. It just wasn't nearly enough.

As this was grand prix weekend, and BAR Honda had hired out half the place, I thought they might be on their toes. sadly not. Perhaps this was why on such a busy weekend, the restaurant was only about 3/4 full at most.

I think they are in no more danger of gaining a 3 star, as they are of losing one.

I would not return, except maybe for lunch.

[Jon Tseng]

I would not return, except maybe for lunch.

Which has also shot up in recent years from thirty squids for minuscule portions to forty five squids for minuscule portions (albeit service compris)

J

[Gary Marshall]

le manoir is the sort of place that really should appeal to me it has history, classical french cooking, talented chef and a great setting.

what has always put me off is the pricing which for me always seemed way out of kilter for 2 stars, and i'm not averse to spending the pennies if a decent meal is to be had!

If i did spend the money, i'd expect it to be flawless but my impression from others visits has been of a place where it isn't, and more to the point there's a feeling that it doesn't matter as the reservations book is always full and they don't appear to rely on regular customers.

The stress of small service flaws would drive me mad by the end of the meal (much like scott by the sound of it) and not being able to drink decent wine (and when i say decent i mean minor burgundies not coche dury)

i hear they even charge for menus which just makes it sound like a foodie tourist destination/theme park.

I know two people who went a lot though.

one likes it because he can land his helicopter there and the other (now bust) liked it because it the McLaren f1 team were often there, and probably because it was expensive and he could brag about it, which he did.

that about sums it up for me, it's not for foodies, it's for the rich. (actually much like le gavroche, which i thought i'd love - but hated pretty much for the same rationale, too much for what it was.)

i'd much rather go to winteringham fields.

gary

[marcus]

Our waiter came back and informed me the sommelier agreed that it was probably oxidised and proceeded to pour the wine.

Truly incredible, totally unacceptable, and something that I've never seen at a high end restaurant. It should never have been poured, and I don't understand why you didn't send it back. Oxidation is a defect caused by poor handling or storage of the wine, for a young wine it was probably subject to very high temperature, and the restaurant should take responsibility as a matter of course.

[Dan Ryan]

Sounds like a piss poor performance for the money, Scott. Better luck with next year's birthday.

Don't suppose Raymond would consider a BYOB option?

Edited July 13, 2004 by Dan Ryan (log)

[Scott]

Sounds like a piss poor performance for the money, Scott. Better luck with next year's birthday.

Don't suppose Raymond would consider a BYOB option?

they do indeed.

£50 per bottle

[Dan Ryan]

Shafted one way or shafted the other. And I thought they might be able to break even on the £95 for the menu.

[tony h]

When I did the 4 day cookery course - I loved every second. They bent over backwards to make you're stay perfect. The meals were included (lunch you cooked yourself!) - the startrers were, I think, from the lunch menu, the mains & desserts from the al la carte. Wine included. You didn't get to choose - the meals were balanced against what you were cooking that day - on the meat day, fish in the eveing etc.

they took us around the rooms to have a gander - some impressive - some less so. All astonishingly expensive - 500 - 1500 per night - food usually extra but they do offer some deals.

the course was something like 1500 - all meals, wine & 5 night accomodation plus the run of the place. Even let you work in the kitchen between end of course & the evening meal. scarry.

also - partners could stay in the room free of charge - but they charged you for their food & drink

i think thats the best way to experience the place

PS just remembered - one night they took us to petit blanc in oxford for a change of scene - crap.

[Suzi Edwards]

even though it was expensive and there was one sauce that was well below par for me, i still loved it. but i think the beautiful weather and charming service really pushed it over the edge.

also, i know even less than moby about wine, so i didn't even look at the list.

compared to, say, sketch, where i just felt like i had hemmorhaged cash, it was a relative bargain.

[robyn]

Robyn, if a poor or mediocre meal poisoned future visits for me, I'd be in trouble, since I end up with repeat visits to many places...

You sound more forgiving than I am. Even at a little deal restaurant on my home turf - if the place is raggedy (and raggedy at a little deal restaurant is getting your eggs well done when you asked for over easy) - it's history. My husband has called me a Hapsburg (something about they never forgave and they never forgot) - and that's the truth. I only have so much time - so much money - and can eat only so many calories - so I'm not anxious to give places multiple opportunities to prove that my initial impressions were wrong. Robyn