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WTN: Macon-Uchizy "Les Maranges" 2004


Robin Meredith

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Macon-Uchizy "Les Maranges" 2004

Les Heritiers du Comte Lafon

I've been exploring these wines for several months now trying to recapture the magic of a 2002 Macon-Milly Lamartine we enjoyed at Robuchon in LV last December. No luck so far - a 2003 version of the same wine was predictably coarse, and a light, lemony 2004 Macon-Villages was very well made but lacking in distinction and perhaps not the best value at $20.

This bottle was surprisingly oaky - not to the point of being out of balance, but I suspect that tasted blind I might have guessed New World rather than France. Difficult to match with food due to the combination of prominent oak and Old World fruit - it was a bit of a train wreck with sauteed soft shell crabs over fresh tomato-basil pasta. Generally lacking in verve and precision. At $26/bottle neither a house wine or a cellar candidate.

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