Jamón Ibérico D.O.

[vserna]

It's easy to find here; great ibérico is another thing.

vserna, which specific producer(s) would you recommend for "great" iberico?

Sánchez Romero Carvajal is the classic name, as explained by Miguel. In Spain, the current quality leader (very hard to find now) is Joselito, from Guijuelo. Amazing texture and complexity, particularly at the Gran Reserva level.

Guijuelo, near Salamanca, is the northernmost producing area for quality ibérico ham, and it's very interesting because this geographical situation illustrates the importance of the curing process: pigs are not raised in Guijuelo at all, but in the holm oak-rich 'dehesas' of Extremadura, over 100 miles to the southwest. They are only sacrificed and the hams cured in Guijuelo (and the chorizos and 'lomos', which are spiced pork loins kept in sausage casings, made).

The secret is that winters are much colder in Guijuelo than in Extremadura or the southern Huelva mountains where the famed villages of Jabugo and Cumbres Mayores are. Therefore, less salt is needed for curing the hams in the colder climate, and this results in a lighter, more pristine finished product. At least, that's what Guijuelo fanatics argue. At any rate, Joselito is a real Rolls Royce of a producer.

[MiguelCardoso]

Joselito is indeed even better - if such a word can be used when discussing different levels of the sublime - but I had no idea why. Thanks, vserna! Anyway, I found this recent article about their hams. A quick Google turned up at least one UK supplier of the Gran Reserva vserna recommends, though the fact that it's in English shouldn't really convince anyone. Better by far to get hold of one of the old-fashioned Spanish suppliers, some of which are represented online.

Great Ibérico ham goes very well with fino Sherry or Manzanilla, as well as quite a few red and even whites, but, although I'm not a beer guy, I have to say I like it best with a good, cold Spanish draught beer. Spanish lagers are still criminally underrated and unknown in America. And they have the advantage of making up for what you spend on the ham, as they're so ridiculously cheap!

[bobsdf]

Interesting. On my last trip to Madrid I brought back two cana's of Joselito lomo. I thought it was expensive when I bought it, now I know why. It is absolutely fantastic! Every time I slice some I nearly cry as I watch my supply get smaller and smaller. Interestingly, it does taste lighter, to my relatively inexperienced tongue, than most of the other hams I've tried.

I'm not sure if I prefer lomo or jamon. Whichever one I happen to be eating seems like my favorite at the time. Jamon vs. lomo--a new thread, perhaps?

I had wanted to bring back a whole Jamon, but there was no room in my luggage. Not to mention that I would have been heartbroken to have had it confiscated by customs. Next trip perhaps.

Miguel, thanks for the article.

Edited March 10, 2004 by bobsdf (log)

[butterfly]

When I last checked, the following were the D.O. for jamón ibérico:

Dehesa de Extremadura

Guijuelo

Jamón de Huelva (a.k.a. Jabugo)

Jamón de Teruel

Jamón de Trévelez

As I remember, there were a few others that had applied for D.O. (Córdoba perhaps?). Did any other regions end up obtaining the denomination? If not, is there any schedule for this or any way to check which areas have applied and are under review?

Also, what other ibérico producing areas or specific producers outside of the D.O. are worth noting?

Thanks!

[pedro]

AFAIK, the only other denominación since last time I checked --May 2005-- is that of Los Pedroches which comprises several villages from Córdoba.

I don't know if any other region applied.

[Saborosa]

A good place for DO information is the Ministry of Agriculture website http://www.mapa.es/es/alimentacion/pags/De...on/consulta.asp Search by "consulta por tipo de producto/jamones".

Here it lists Dehesa de Extremadura, Huelva, Teruel and Guijuelo as DOP - Denominación de Origen Protegida(?) and Jamon de Trevelez and Jamon de Pedroches as denominacion especifica. I think the latter means produced in very specific geographical areas?! Can anyone else explain the difference more exactly?

[butterfly]

Thank you so much Pedro and Saborosa. That's a very useful search engine on the Ministry's site. They give very specific information on the requirements and criteria for the D.O.

From what I can tell, the geographical areas designated in the D.O.P. seem to be more extended, while those with Denominación Específica seem more localized. But they all seem to have equally stringent dietary, genetic, and processing guidelines. I'd be interested in learning more about how the D.O.s are granted and regulated.

[Rogelio]

Here are the regulations for foods and veberages DOs in Spain.

[vserna]

Teruel ham is not ibérico - it comes from regular, white European pigs (mostly Duroc). It's the only non-ibérico appellation for hams.

[butterfly]

Victor--Thanks for the reminder about the Teruel D.O.

[butterfly]

A few other questions:

Which shops/food stalls have the best selection of iberico in Madrid (or other towns)? The spots that I go to generally have two or three options. Is there a place that offers a wider selection (something comparable to Jamonísmo in Barcelona).

Also, are there any producers that offer tastings or tours that are worth noting?

Thanks!

[Saborosa]

Teruel ham is not ibérico - it comes from regular, white European pigs (mostly Duroc). It's the only non-ibérico appellation for hams.

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Yes, good point. That seems to be true for Trevelez ham too - from Landrace, Large- White y Duroc- Jersey cross pigs according to the Ministerio site.

[vserna]

Which shops/food stalls have the best selection of iberico in Madrid (or other towns)?

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I like Hermanos Peña in the Chamartín covered market - they have Joselito and Sánchez Romero Carvajal, and basically that's all I'm interested in! I think they also have other brands:

http://mercadodechamartin.com/

[rooberu]

I recently read the article "Boss Hog"; in Rolling Stone (Issue 1015; December 14, 2006. not available online as far as I can tell).

The article was an expose, focusing on Smithfield foods and the way in which they raise their pigs and deal with the "by-products" of hog farming. Needless to say, it didn't inspire me to go out and buy a smithfield-raised pork butt.

Alright, the reason I am posting this here: The article got me to thinking about the care with which the prized pigs of Iberia are raised...and how damned good the ham is. I haven't even had the good stuff, just Iberico that you can get in the USA (Redondo Iglesias) I'm wondering about the rest of the hog though. For instance, is the lomo from a pata negra pig wonderful as well? Is the rest of the hog prized in spain and do you pay a similar premium because of the animal?

It's been along time since I lived in Spain, and I was a poor 19-21 year old so I have no idea about this kind of thing.

[Rogelio]

For instance, is the lomo from a pata negra pig wonderful as well? 

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Indeed, a good lomo is as good or even better than a good ham.

Is the rest of the hog prized in spain and do you pay a similar premium because of the animal?

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Yes, ibérico sausages, chorizo, salchichón... are pricier and better than normal ones. I have just finished a whole chorizo from Joselito that almost left me crying.

And the iberico meat cuts like sirloin, loin, secreto, presa, pluma... Are a notch over any white pig cuts.

You'd better come back to taste and prove it.

[rooberu]

You'd better come back to taste and prove it.

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From your keypad to God's ears Rogelio!

An extended cultural and culinary adventure in Spain is at the very top of my "list of things to do before I die". To think of all the times I ate Burger King in Elche and McDonald's in Alicante....I would like to travel back in time and kick my own ass.

[butterfly]

Oh, yes--ibérico meat is wonderful and so easy to cook with, because you don't need to do much of anything to it. It has a great flavor and texture with the simplest preparation.

After a yearly check-up, my doctor suggested that I switch to all ibérico products (I truly love this country). So we tried ibérico bacon--it's an absolute revelation. I'll never, ever eat any other kind of bacon.

Aye Burrikín.... rooveru, you are breaking my heart.

[Pelayin]

After a yearly check-up, my doctor suggested that I switch to all ibérico products (I truly love this country).

Now, tell us that (s)he also extended a prescription for it and then it would really be a great country

P.

[butterfly]

Now, tell us that (s)he also extended a prescription for it and then it would really be a great country 

P.

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Slightly high cholesterol despite a low number of vices... Bad genes...

[muichoi]

While Iberico hams , shoulders and Lomos are quite justifiably expensive, the Salchichons and chorizos are simply astoundingly cheap for what they deliver-though this only applies when bought direct in the piece here.

[docsconz]

  I haven't even had the good stuff, just Iberico that you can get in the USA (Redondo Iglesias)

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I may be mistaken, but so far as I know Embutidos Fermin is the only Iberico producer currently available in the US. The Redondo Iglesias that you had is most likely jamon serrano and not iberico.

[vserna]

Embutidos Fermin is the only Iberico producer currently available in the US. The Redondo Iglesias that you had is most likely jamon serrano and not iberico.

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Actually, not even Fermín - as yet. From their press release last spring:

"Fermin USA announced today that they will be the exclusive US importers of a gourmet Iberian ham that won USDA approval last July. The newly formed partnership which includes the “jamón Ibérico’s” Spanish producer, Embutidos Fermin, along with American-based importer/distributor Rogers International and internationally acclaimed Spanish chef Jose Ramon Andres, have already begun determining distribution partners in key markets. The first shipments of Ibérico Lomo, Chorizo and Salchichon will be available by April and should be in full distribution by later this spring. Cured Ibérico legs and shoulders, which take longer to cure, will be available in summer of 2007."

Edited December 18, 2006 by vserna (log)

[docsconz]

Embutidos Fermin is the only Iberico producer currently available in the US. The Redondo Iglesias that you had is most likely jamon serrano and not iberico.

←

Actually, not even Fermín - as yet. From their press release last spring:

"Fermin USA announced today that they will be the exclusive US importers of a gourmet Iberian ham that won USDA approval last July. The newly formed partnership which includes the “jamón Ibérico’s” Spanish producer, Embutidos Fermin, along with American-based importer/distributor Rogers International and internationally acclaimed Spanish chef Jose Ramon Andres, have already begun determining distribution partners in key markets. The first shipments of Ibérico Lomo, Chorizo and Salchichon will be available by April and should be in full distribution by later this spring. Cured Ibérico legs and shoulders, which take longer to cure, will be available in summer of 2007."

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The Iberico chorizo, salchichon and lomo are all currently available in the US. I have procured and eaten some of the chorizo and slachichon myself - delicious. I don't believe the jamon is available yet though.

[vserna]

That's what I said - no jamón ibérico until next summer, as the company itself has announced.

[docsconz]

That's what I said - no jamón ibérico until next summer, as the company itself has announced.

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Victor, we are not really disagreeing. I said above that if he had Redondo Iglesias jamon it wasn't Iberico, but likely Serrano. As for Embutidos Fermin, I said

I may be mistaken, but so far as I know Embutidos Fermin is the only Iberico producer currently available in the US.

I can understand how that was taken to mean Jamon Iberico. That is clearly my fault for not being more explicit. Their other Iberico products are currently available here and according to Tienda.com the jamon iberico from Embutidos Fermin are supposed to arrive for delivery this winter with the bellotas coming next winter.