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WTN: 2004 Antoniolo Erbaluce di Caluso


Brad Ballinger

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2004 Antoniolo Erbaluce di Caluso. Erbaluce di Caluso is the DOC. Erbaluce is the grape. It is grown around the village of Caluso. Most of the wines produced in the DOC are more along the "pedestrian" variety -- simple, serviceable, unremarkable. But Antoniolo has a talent, if you will, for producing wines that "outkick their coverage." For example, I'd stack up their Gattinara against many Baroli or Barbaresci from the region. And this Erbaluce di Caluso is made in that fashion.

Aside from what some might consider too much herbal on the nose, it's a very nice wine. The nose has floral and herbal components with an undercurrent of stoney mineral. There is a spritely acidic component in the mouth and clean citrus oil, floral, and rocky components. Finishes with an almost rainwater-like freshness.

We cannot employ the mind to advantage when we are filled with excessive food and drink - Cicero

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