Mouton (Agneau) pré-salé

[VivreManger]

This is the legendary salt-marsh grazing sheep, archetypally found in Normandy and Britanny in the shadow of Mont St. Michel. For a good description with a recipe check out this URL

http://www.gastroville.com/archives/what_we_cook/000017.html

There are similar types of lamb in Wales, British Columbia, and Quebec. I expect that if it is ever offered on a Paris restaurant menu, the price would be exorbitant, but I wonder if it is ever sold in Paris meat markets. And if so, would it be available in early March?

Would someone like Serge Caillaud at Bell Viandier in the Marché Saint-Germain (rue Mabillon, 6e. Tel: 01.40.46.82.82) carry such an item or is it more likely to be found at a fancier establishment with its own website filled with distracting bells and whistles?

I checked out one of those sites whose name I promptly forget because I was trying to suppress its moaning cow and buzzing delivery trucks, but agneau pré-salé was not listed, not surprising because it was not yet in season.

Probably the best method would be to get the names of the fanciest meat markets in Paris and call them up directly. Anyone have such a list handy or know where to find it? This time I promised to ignore the macromedia flash dancing cows.

Edited February 16, 2006 by VivreManger (log)

[Felice]

You are in luck. I just bought a book that lists just this sort of thing. It says that you can find agneau de pré salé at the following butchers in Paris.

Boucherie Nouvelle

Jean Francois Jardin

178 rue de la Convention

15th

01 45 32 71 05

They say that he specialises in lamb and has lamb from many regions in France available.

Boucherie Lamartine

Jean-Christophe Prosper

172 avenue de Victor Hugo

16th

01 47 27 82 29

[VivreManger]

Many thanks for the butcher information. BTW, what was your source?

I cross-checked your listing with an old '92 Pudlo I have. Both were listed then with hearts. At the time Boucherie Nouvelle had just appeared for the first time. The description of Lamartine did not specifically include salt marsh lamb in its specialties.

Pudlo is particularly helpful since it lists the days and hours of each shop. Did your reference book include that information.

While Boucherie Nouvelle then and now offers the lamb specialty, much else has changed. They moved from 209 to the address you have, 178 rue de la Convention. They also have changed hands. The butcher listed then was the mustachioed Thierry Michaud.

If it would not be too much trouble, could someone check the most recent Pudlo to learn what details they now include about both establishments? I would be curious to learn if they both still merit the heart commendation and what their hours are.

Rungis has an interesting website, in French and English - - though the French is more complete - - that offers some more details about this kind of lamb and its rarity.

For general information the site is

http://www.rungisinternational.com/index.asp?numlangue=1 French

http://www.rungisinternational.com/index.asp?numlangue=2 English

Of relevance to this discussion:

"Very little salt-pasture lamb is sold at Rungis Market, explains Mr. Jean-Pierre Ménager, Sales Manager for the company Sovia. It is very difficult to come by as is it sold mainly in the region of production. Our company sells perhaps ten salt-pasture lamb carcasses from the Havres du Cotentin per year…"

http://www.rungisinternational.com/pages/gb/Dossiers/pc2.asp

[Felice]

Many thanks for the butcher information.  BTW, what was your source? 

If it would not be too much trouble, could someone check the most recent Pudlo to learn what details they now include about both establishments?  I would be curious to learn if they both still merit the heart commendation and what their hours are. 

The book I used was the "Guide des Gourmands" Les Meilleurs Produits du Terroir, 18th edition.

I wanted a book that talked about various products and where to find them. It wasn't exactly what I was looking for, but I think it will be useful.

By the way I just noticed that the Boucherie Nouvelle got a "coq d'or" as well, it was given in 2004 for its " sublime collection d' agneaux" so this seems like the place you want to go to. They even call him the "Lord of the Lambs" and say "his shop gives you the unique occassion to sample lamb from different regions in France with their marked characteristics" (My quick translation). It sounds pretty amazing actually and I think I will go myself.

I just checked the Pudlo and it seems that the name is listed there as Boucherie Jardin with the same address (178 rue de la convention). In any event the butcher's name is Jean-Francois Jardin and the store you want is at 178 rue de la convention. In Pudlo Boucherie Nouvelle is listed at 209 rue de la convention and the butcher's name is Thierry Michau, as you mentionned. So, something is off somewhere.

It seems like Pudlo only gives "hearts" for restaurants now.

[VivreManger]

Les Pages Jaunes website lists under Butchers on rue Convention in the 15th, three of which two are relevant to this thread

Boucherie Nouvelle Convention

209 r Convention 75015 PARIS 01 42 50 59 37

Jardin Jean-François

178 r Convention 75015 PARIS 01 45 32 71 05

Another website lists the Boucherie Nouvelle with its lamb specialty

http://www.france-saveurs.com/regions_de_f....asp?ref_reg=12

BOUCHERIE NOUVELLE

178 rue de la Convention 75015 Paris

Tel: 01 45 32 71 05 Agneau de pré-salé

So the confusion is not limited to Pudlo. They all may be uncritically recycling their older editions, a suspicion that many have noted. That is one of the reasons why websites such as this can play a role in keeping the venerated authorities, perhaps, honest.

I just called 178 rue de la Convention and spoke to Jean-François Jardin. Unfortunately the connection was bad and when I tried to call back the line was busy. There seem to be two different butchers with similar names and products. Jardin thinks he has the best region for agneau de pré salé. His competitor's source is not as good as his.

It sounds like a classic name sale and semi name-change with consequent rivalries, eg, Bookbinder's, The Original Bookbinder's, and the True Bookbinder's. The printed authorities have been too lazy to clear up the matter. However my transatlantic phone conversation cut off in mid-sentence was not the forum for settling all these differences. Apparently the 209 r Convention 75015 PARIS 01 42 50 59 37 is still in business so maybe I should call them to hear their story.

He gets his lamb on Tuesday. He is open on Sunday, 6h30 to 13h00 (only) and closed on Monday.

So Felice if you call or go in the next week or so let me know what you learn. Tentatively I am thinking of ordering a rack of lamb for early March. He needs a week's notice.

[VivreManger]

Went to 178 Convention on Sunday, bought salt -marsh & Pauillac lamb. Prepared it Monday night. Report to follow upon return.

[Felice]

Went to 178 Convention on Sunday, bought salt -marsh & Pauillac lamb.  Prepared it Monday night.  Report to follow upon return.

←

Vivre Manger, you never told us how the lamb turned out.

I'm hoping it was worth the trip because I just ordered a Gigot to be made for lunch on Monday. I told him him what I wanted to do and he suggested the Pauillac lamb.

[bleudauvergne]

Can you give a price/kilo indication for this type of lamb in Paris? I tasted the pre-sale at a wedding not long ago in Brittany and even being wedding food could not spoil it. I am wondering what's a fair price for this so that I can be prepared when I start asking around in Lyon.

[John Talbott]

Can you give a price/kilo indication for this type of lamb in Paris?  I tasted the pre-sale  at a wedding not long ago in Brittany and even being wedding food could not spoil it.  I am wondering what's a fair price for this so that I can be prepared when I start asking around in Lyon.

←

Yah and let us know how it turns out.

I second the request to ViveManger too.

[VivreManger]

Quick report that unfortunately will not match the eloquence of the Gastroville report that inspired the purchases in the first place.

On the morning of our arrival in Paris, I dragged my wife across town to pick up the lamb I had reserved. I had half a rack of salt-marsh lamb and a few chops of Pauillac for comparison. The salt-marsh came from the Mont St. Michel region. It was accompanied by a label of provenance:

Agneau élevé sur pré-salé

le grèvin

Earl Le Gué de l'épine

50300 Le Val St Pére

02 33 58 10 58

Abbatu 21 02 06

I bought it on 5 March, nearly two weeks after it had been slaughtered. I don't know how it had been stored, but it certainly was not dry-aged, though it clearly had been hanging somewhere for awhile.

Now all of us, informed by the name of the butcher and the farmer, should be able to buy it for ourselves.

The lamb is quite delicate and exceptional in taste, though I have to admit I was not transported into another gastronomic galaxy. It was a cross between veal and lamb in flavor. The Pauillac lamb seemed crude by comparison. In preparing it, I followed the Gastroville recipe, searing it on top of the stove for a few minutes before letting it continue cooking at a low temperature in a convection oven for about 10 minutes or so. The result was rosy pinkish in the middle and crispy brown on the outside.

I had it with a pleasant 20 euro burgundy from Marechal (??) that was recommended by LeGrand on Passage Vivienne.

All told, I was glad I finally tried this legendary lamb, but I won't book passage on the next flight back to Paris just so that I can eat it again. However when I am next in the neighborhood...

As for the price, it was quite reasonable, considering the rarity and reputation, a bit under 35 euros for a kilo.

[Felice]

I just got back from the Boucherie Nouvelle with my gigot de Paulliac. I was told to preheat the oven to 250 and then once it is hot enough to put the lamb in and lower the temperature to 220 and cook for 43 minutes. She said to season with oil, a bit of sel de guerande, and garlic if I like.

I will let you know how it turns out tomorrow.

Unfortunately I'm not really sure how many kilos it is as it's not marked and I have yet to buy a kitchen scale . My bet is that it's about 2 1/2 kilos.

[VivreManger]

Did you keep your receipt? Mine has all the relevant details, though I seem to have misplaced it for the moment. That should give you the weight and cost.