Blaue Gans

[Sneakeater]

I have low tastes. db Bistro is my favorite Daniel Boulud restaurant (or at least it was under its original chef). And I think that Blaue Gans, Kurt Gutenbrunner's new "neighborhood" spot in the old Le Zinc space on Duane Street, is now my favorite Kurt Gutenbrunner restaurant.

Blaue Gans serves homey, basic Austrian food. Not the fancy kind he serves at Wallsee. Rather, the kind of food one imagines Austrians eat every day. Well, very lucky Austrians.

This is soul food.

I started with a beef consomme with calves' liver dumplings. As my dining companion said, it "reeked of cow." She had a red cabbage salad whose appeal was only slightly diminished by an out-of-place squiggle of pesto at the top of the plate. As she noted, we weren't out for Genovese-Austrian fusion last night.

On to the pork belly for me. Served over some kind of root vegetable puree. Crispy topping of fat covering an unctuous block of underlying fat with a little strip of meat running through it. OK, I give up: how do you make a dish like this sound as good as it tastes? Sitting here a day later, I want more. I also want more of the beef goulash (with an absolutely delicious creamed [or cheesed] spatzle) that I shamelessly lifted off my companion's plate. Deep paprika flavor here.

No one is going to be surprised to know that desserts were beyond fabulous. Quark dumplings with bits of orange? I'd eat them every day if I weren't concerned that I'd eventually be unable to fit through my apartment door. The special dessert of pancakes with white raisin, whose name translates as something like "the emperor's mix-up," was only slighlty less fabulous.

And here's news. The wine we had was BY FAR the best Austrian red I've ever drunk. Considering the low quality of most Austrian reds I've had, that could be faint praise. Most Austrian reds, in my experience, have been thin and/or overly light, and one-dimensional. But this wine was special. It was a St. Laurent (which, along with Blauenfrankisch, is one of the parent grapes of Zweigelt). Thing is, though, I've never had a Blauenfrankisch or Zweigelt with anything approaching the depth of this St. Laurent. Slightly smokey start, then a nice hit of fruit . . . just delicious. I'd have tried to remember the maker, but I don't know where I'd be able to buy a few bottles for home. I'd be eager to return to Blaue Gans just to try that wine again.

Service did not, shall we say, attain the highest levels of professionalism. But the staff could not possibly have been friendlier or more enthusiastic. (One waitress let my companion and me search her iPod for a song they played on the sound system whose provenance my companion couldn't remember.)

The closest local comparison to this restaurant is Tomas Biesel, across the street from BAM. I like that place a lot. But let me tell you, Blaue Gans is better in every way. The quality of the preparation, the quality of the ingredients . . . and all at (relatively) modest prices (after all, this is Tribeca). If I had a restaurant like this in my neighborhood, I'd be there most nights. As it is, I can't wait to go back -- even if it's in somebody else's neighborhood.

Edited January 18, 2006 by Sneakeater (log)

[adamru]

I had dinner at Blaue Gans last night looking for cold weather comfort food in the proximity of location and price to Upstairs at Bouley and I was not at all disappointed. It's a large open and warm room maybe just a few watts too bright, the walls of the restaurant and bathrooms covered in unframed foreign art, film and theater posters perfectly arranged but looking like they'd been there forever giving it that instant sense of history and comfort that the Burger Joint in the Parker Meridien achieved.

The room was empty at about 630 and near full at the time we left two hours later. The service was excellent, personable and knowledgable, and the food arrived very quickly. The waiter told us certain dishes were not available from the menu but never mentioned which ones before announcing the specials, some of which are written on a huge wall mirror, but it didn't interfere with our ordering.

We shared a duck salad to start after being correctly told that my date's entree wasn't very filling - the pasta special of three four cheese ravioli with shitake mushrooms and long thin strips of zucchini, in a sauce of pumpkin seed oil and pesto ($18) which was rich and perfectly executed but for the price and for being an entree it could have come with one or two more. I had the fried chicken ($20) which was two large boneless pieces of white meat accompanied by a hefty serving of potato salad and a small container of lingonberry sauce which I'd never think to have with fried chicken but it served as a great contrast to the meat which was seasoned but neither too spicy nor greasy. I understand that some people knock this sort of subtle bistro fried chicken as being inauthentic - I've especially read this about the fried chicken at 24 Prince which I thoroughly enjoyed as well - but to feel full and clean and almost fool yourself into thinking you ate healthy is a good thing.

For dessert we ordered the caramel mille crepe which they called something else but it was exactly that and was a hefty portion, maybe twice what they'd give you in a serving at Lady M. Also it came with a small portion of dark chocolate sauce on the side. I wished they'd suggested that desserts be shared as the quark dumplings with orange salad (both desserts were $8 each,) were the size of three small fists - two would have been enough for two people. They were delicious though having the texture and flavor of the filling of a cheese danish.

They only serve Austrian wine and beer and have no cocktail menu but they do have two house cocktails, one our waiter couldn't explain and the other an elderflower martini which I hate to say put to shame a similar martini at Room 4 Dessert which was just a little too perfumed. We also tried the silver pine schnapps with dessert which was just what we needed before heading back out to the cold and I say this in the best way possible - the scent and taste brought to mind the Home Depot at Christmastime.

As the restaurant got busier the waiter was hard to find for the check. At one point he brought the three tier petit four tray of apricot, raspberry and almond sugar cookies over and left us to it for about twenty minutes which was not at all a bad way to be left waiting for the bill. It came to $125 with tip and I'm still full at lunch today with no regrets.

[ludja]

Thanks for the detailed reviews, Sneakeater and Adamru. I'm looking forward to checking out Blaue Gans the next time I"m in NYC.

...  The special dessert of pancakes with white raisin, whose name translates as something like "the emperor's mix-up," was only slighlty less fabulous.

...

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Kaiserschmarren

This is easy to make at home and makes a nice light supper with perhaps a soup beforehand and/or a fruit compote alongside.

[therese]

Dinner Tuesday night at Blaue Gans.

Very pleasant space, with a high curved white ceiling, posters and other ephemera on the walls, and very comfortable banquettes running around the room. We got there about 7:30 to find the dining room about half full, and scored a corner table in the back from which we could survey the proceedings and (inadvertently) overhear our neighbors. The table to one side of us turned twice while we were there, but it would have been difficult to tell if you hadn't been paying attention, as each party comprised two youngish business sorts talking about the same sorts of things.

Service very good, informal as suits the space. Water glasses refilled promptly, cutlery replaced as appropriate, etc.

I'd had lunch at Tocqueville earlier in the day, so took the beef consomme with liver dumpling to start and another appetizer, duck salad with chestnuts, to follow. The liver dumpling was coarser than versions I've had before, presumably reflecting the various chefs' grandmothers' taste in this manner. The crepe noodles (there's presumably a name for these) very nice. Consomme strongly flavored. Duck salad was sliced rare duck breast, so a bit like a carpaccio with a small green salad (server joked that it was one of the two green vegetables in the place). I love chestnuts, so nice seeing them on a menu.

Husband had a special to start, wurstsalat. The "salat" is a bit of a misnomer, as there's not much in the way of anything from the plant world in it unless you count the sliced cornichons scattered throughout the mayonnaise-y julienned wurst. It was also a large serving, very nearly breaking the "never eat anything larger than your head" rule. He managed to eat half and then followed it with jaeger schnitzel and spaetzle. Excellent, with very fluffy spaetzle and again an enormous serving.

For dessert we had sorbets (husband) and quark dumpling with strawberry-rhubarb compote (for me, as I'd wisely saved room).

Wine was Nittnaus Blauer Zweigelt. I can't recall what we paid altogether, but it wasn't much considering the quality of the food. We managed to make up for it at Pegu Club later on, of course...

[ludja]

Thanks for the nice write up, therese!

The unsweetened crepes/thin pancakes that are cut up as noodles for a soup garnish are called "frittaten".

I love Leberknoedel soup, as well as Wurstsalat or Fleischsalat. The quark dumplings (Topfenknoedel) w/strawberry rhubarb sauce sound nice as well and nice that you saved room for them! Typically in Austria they and other "Mehlspeisen" would be eaten as a meatless or light meal and maybe just after a soup and salad as you ordered.

Do you remember if the boiled dumplings were rolled in dried bread crumbs and then lightly sauteed in butter? This is how my grandmother would do it. I always wait (and usually miss) making these stuffed with apricots during their short season. I should just get on with it and make them now and serve them as they did with just a fruit sauce.

(Off topic aside: Based on your past recs I sent a friend attending a conference in Atlanta this week to Mary Mac's. I'm jealous I wasn't there....)

Dinner Tuesday night at Blaue Gans.

Very pleasant space, with a high curved white ceiling, posters and other ephemera on the walls, and very comfortable banquettes running around the room. We got there about 7:30 to find the dining room about half full, and scored a corner table in the back from which we could survey the proceedings and (inadvertently) overhear our neighbors. The table to one side of us turned twice while we were there, but it would have been difficult to tell if you hadn't been paying attention, as each party comprised two youngish business sorts talking about the same sorts of things.

Service very good, informal as suits the space. Water glasses refilled promptly, cutlery replaced as appropriate, etc.

I'd had lunch at Tocqueville earlier in the day, so took the beef consomme with liver dumpling to start and another appetizer, duck salad with chestnuts, to follow. The liver dumpling was coarser than versions I've had before, presumably reflecting the various chefs' grandmothers' taste in this manner. The crepe noodles (there's presumably a name for these) very nice. Consomme strongly flavored.  Duck salad was sliced rare duck breast, so a bit like a carpaccio with a small green salad (server joked that it was one of the two green vegetables in the place). I love chestnuts, so nice seeing them on a menu.

Husband had a special to start, wurstsalat. The "salat" is a bit of a misnomer, as there's not much in the way of anything from the plant world in it unless you count the sliced cornichons scattered throughout the mayonnaise-y julienned wurst. It was also a large serving, very nearly breaking the "never eat anything larger than your head" rule. He managed to eat half and then followed it with jaeger schnitzel and spaetzle. Excellent, with very fluffy spaetzle and again an enormous serving.

For dessert we had sorbets (husband) and quark dumpling with strawberry-rhubarb compote (for me, as I'd wisely saved room).

Wine was Nittnaus Blauer Zweigelt. I can't recall what we paid altogether, but it wasn't much considering the quality of the food. We managed to make up for it at Pegu Club later on, of course...

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Edited March 30, 2006 by ludja (log)

[therese]

Do you remember if the boiled dumplings were rolled in dried bread crumbs and then lightly sauteed in butter?  This is how my grandmother would do it.  I always wait (and usually miss) making these stuffed with apricots during their short season.  I should just get on with it and make them now and serve them as they did with just a fruit sauce.

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Seems like the liver dumplings in the soup might have been done that way, but the quark dessert dumpling wasn't. I can't say I'm necessarily the most reliable reporter in this instance, though, as I've now had way too much food in way too short a period of time.

(Off topic aside: Based on your past recs I sent a friend attending a conference in Atlanta this week to Mary Mac's. I'm jealous I wasn't there....)

I hope he/she liked it. You did point out the importance of correctly choosing the side dishes, right? Emphasing balance of color and texture, etc.?

[adamru]

I had dinner here sunday night and while the dinner menu hasn't changed - though they had great special appetizers and entrees with white asparagus and ramps - the dessert menu is now different. I miss the quark dumplings but they added coffee-milkshake-sundae sorts of desserts made with iced espresso and chocolate and coffee ice creams and sabayons topped with a cookie, chocolate square and chocolate straw. you can either drink the iced coffee out the bottom with the straw and eat the rest like a glass of ice cream or whip it all together into a shake. it reminded me of room 4 dessert in that they have half the desserts plated and half in a glass. also they no longer come around with the tray of butter cookies at the end of the meal.

[Sneakeater]

Husband had a special to start, wurstsalat. The "salat" is a bit of a misnomer, as there's not much in the way of anything from the plant world in it unless you count the sliced cornichons scattered throughout the mayonnaise-y julienned wurst. It was also a large serving, very nearly breaking the "never eat anything larger than your head" rule. He managed to eat half and then followed it with jaeger schnitzel and spaetzle. Excellent, with very fluffy spaetzle and again an enormous serving.

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I had the exact same appetizer/entree combination Monday.

I note it, first, because it was all some of the best food I've yet had at this by-now-personal-favorite restaurant.

But second, I must be a much bigger pig than Mr. Therese, cuz I had no trouble at all finishing both courses and then not stinting on dessert.

I disgust myself.

Edited May 3, 2006 by Sneakeater (log)

[therese]

Husband had a special to start, wurstsalat. The "salat" is a bit of a misnomer, as there's not much in the way of anything from the plant world in it unless you count the sliced cornichons scattered throughout the mayonnaise-y julienned wurst. It was also a large serving, very nearly breaking the "never eat anything larger than your head" rule. He managed to eat half and then followed it with jaeger schnitzel and spaetzle. Excellent, with very fluffy spaetzle and again an enormous serving.

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I had the exact same appetizer/entree combination Monday.

I note it, first, because it was all some of the best food I've yet had at this by-now-personal-favorite restaurant.

But second, I must be a much bigger pig than Mr. Therese, cuz I had no trouble at all finishing both courses and then not stinting on dessert.

I disgust myself.

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So what did you have for dessert?

[Sneakeater]

One of the new ice cream coupes (as my reflexive order of quark dumplings was obstructed by their having been dropped from the menu). The ice cream coupe was good.

Edited May 3, 2006 by Sneakeater (log)

[emsny]

I was downtown on jury duty earlier this week, and saw to my amazed pleasure a pile of krapfen on the bar at Blaue Gans, this after the folks at Cafe Sabarsky had for a couple of years sworn up and down that these would be available only between Fasching and Shrove Tuesday.

[Sneakeater]

Maybe they were leftovers.

[therese]

One of the new ice cream coupes (as my reflexive order of quark dumplings was obstructed by their having been dropped from the menu).  The ice cream coupe was good.

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So, yes, I may have to agree: you may in fact be a much bigger big than Mr. Therese.

Or perhaps the serving size of the wurstsalat's been adjusted.

[Noodlebot]

I finally made it to Blaue Gans tonight, and I can't wait to go back. My boyfriend and I arrived at about 9 and were seated right away. The dining room was about half full, and a few more people trickled in as we were eating. I really liked the decor--old posters cover the walls, including a Yoko Ono album cover above my boyfriend's head and a male artist model's sketch hovering over me. There are two large mirrors across from each other towards the back of the room. On one mirror is a list of the night's specials and on the other a list of cheeses. The mirrors look nice in the room, but it was very hard to read the menu over the reflections. Most of the seating in the room is on the red banquettes along the walls of the long room. There is also a line of free-standing tables down the middle of the restaurant. Our server Heather added to the pleasant atmospherics. She was incredibly friendly and always seemed to be there when we were ready to order.

We skipped starters and moved straight to main courses. While we waited, we got a few slices of whole grain bread with a pimento-type spread. I ordered the Schweinsbraten, Rotkraut, Serviettenknödel: roasted pork belly with red cabbage and brioche dumplings. This dish was three generous slices of pork belly over a pile of red cabbage and three inch-wide disks of "dumpling." The pork belly was very good, but I thought it was a little dry (my boyfriend agreed but loved it nonetheless). I loved the cabbage, which had a sweet yet tangy taste. And the "brioche dumplings" were nothing like what the name suggested to me but delicious nonetheless. My boyfriend ordered the special, a braised lamb shank served over a few green vegetables and potato. Lamb isn't a meat that I tend to eat or order a lot of, but this was really wonderful--incredibly tender and flavorful, yet not too gamey. I couldn't stop "helping" him finish his dish (and he did the same for me with my pork).

I was trying to decide between the strudel and the salzburg nockerl for dessert, but our server told me to order the nockerl, hands down. I followed her advice. The nockerl was served in a large-ish oval-shaped ramikin, with a thin layer of huckleberries on the bottom and then pillows of warm meringue on top. Wow! This was one of the best desserts I've ever had. Lucious clouds of meringue, great berry tang. Just perfect. My boyfriend ordered the hazelnut and chocolate cake. I liked the texture of the hazelnut in this cake, and it was very good, but nowhere near as great as the nockerl.

[ludja]

...

We skipped starters and moved straight to main courses. While we waited, we got a few slices of whole grain bread with a pimento-type spread.

...

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Nice write-up, Noodlebot. Thanks for sharing.

The pimento-type spread may have been a Liptauer Cheese which is a very common appetizer/snack in Austria and Hungary.

The base is usually a fresh soft cheese or maybe a mild goat cheese and it is generously flavored with paprika. Other add ins may vary, but one of my favorite recipes also includes minced anchovies and capers, mustard, grated onion and minced fresh chives, butter, and crushed caraway seeds. It is also very good with rye bread and is nice to have alongside either beer or wine.

The huckleberries sound like a great addition to the traditional Salzburger Nockerl.

[therese]

Yep, it was definitely Liptauer Cheese the night we were there. Fortunately I only like Liptauer Cheese a little bit, so didn't overdo.

[Sneakeater]

I'm not even gonna tell you how much of that cheese I had along with the wurstsalat, jager schnitzel, and dessert.

I disgust myself.

[therese]

I'm not even gonna tell you how much of that cheese I had along with the wurstsalat, jager schnitzel, and dessert.

I disgust myself.

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I'm feeling a bit queasy myself, though perhaps it's the 12 course brunch at the Four Seasons I just finished that's the problem and not the thought of your meal at Blaue Gans.

I need to go on a water fast, I think.

[freshherbs]

was there for dinner 3 saturdays ago. had the veal schnitzel with spaetzle. the spaetzle was extremely creamy and didn't have the crunchy fried brownness i am used to...delicious though. can anyone tell me--is this authentic spaetzle or is it typically fried after boiling?

wasn't impressed by the service at all. friendliness was one thing, but we waited for 15 minutes for the check while our server tried to fix the register/computer in the back.

also, picked up two caramel lollipops on the way out...crazy sweet...

[ludja]

was there for dinner 3 saturdays ago.  had the veal schnitzel with spaetzle.  the spaetzle was extremely creamy and didn't have the crunchy fried brownness i am used to...delicious though.  can anyone tell me--is this authentic spaetzle or is it typically fried after boiling?

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Spaetzle can be authentically or traditionally served either way, that is, either straight from boiling, maybe only dressed with a little butter or else baked or sauteed a bit in butter to achieve some light browning. Plain, buttered spaetzle are also good alongside dishes that have some sauce or gravy.

[Daniel]

Blaue Gans

139 Duane St. (W. Broadway)

New York, NY 10013

212-571-8880

Had an enjoyable dinner there this evening.. We arrived at 7 and were one of three tables in the restaurant.. I ordered a wheat beer and my date had a glass of Hungarian white.. Our waiter brought the bottle to the table and allowed my date to try the wine first.. He then poured a generous glass..

We sat, bread and a spread was offered.. The bread seemed like a real sour rye.. The dip was pimento I believe.. Served on a little wooden slate..

I started with the blood sausage.. Served on top of sauerkraut and potatoes most likely cooked in a fat.. The sausage was then topped with a spicy dijon mustard and fresh grated horseradish.. I liked that the blood sausage was fried loose.. Often times I find blood sausage to have a very mushy texture.. Breaking it up increased the surface area and allowed the bits to crisp up.. The fresh horseradish was really refreshing and made the dish lighter.. Really enjoyable and great with a beer.

My girl got the smoked trout served in a pastry.. Served with favas, peas and a mixed bitter green salad.. The trout was excellent.. With the salad and beans it was a really refreshing and lively plate..

Next I ordered the pork schnitzel served with bacon, mushrooms in a heavy heavy cream sauce.. Served with a freshly made spaeztle.. Although the pork was thin, it didnt dry out.. Not breaded and perfectly moist.. The bacon tasted like Schaller and Webber double smoked..The really super rich sauce ran into the amazing light spaetzle and they got along really well.. I liked how the spaetzle came directly from the water and wasnt pan fried.. If it were, the dish would have been way too heavy..

My date had the beef consume with a calves liver dumpling.. We were both surprised by the dumpling.. I think we were both expecting a ravioli of some sort.. But this was a much more hardy dumpling.. It was very enjoyable from the little I had.

The desserts were just awesome.. Extremely decadent.. I would recommend anyone stopping in here for dessert alone! One of the two was the Salzburger Nockerl.. This was a souffle of sorts.. Served with Huckelberries.. So good..

A category they have is called Coups.. These are pretty much grown up sundays.. I got the squirrel.. Homemade Hazelnut ice cream served with a caramel sauce, merinque cookies, and a fresh cream topping.. We ate the whole thing and wish we had more..

The place was empty, service was really great.. The food came out on time.. I loved the bistro like atmosphere.. I have never been to Austria, but I really sensed a European style.. I would happily return..

Edited July 6, 2006 by Daniel (log)

[ludja]

Blaue Gans

139 Duane St. (W. Broadway)

New York, NY 10013

212-571-8880

...

We sat, bread and a spread was offered.. The bread seemed like a real sour rye.. The dip was pimento I believe.. Served on a little wooden slate..

...

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Thanks for the great essay and photo report, Daniel, including the menu!

Looks like a great meal; I like what you guys ordered. As mentioned above, the "pimento spread" is almost certainly Liptauer Cheese which is a staple in Austria.

I agree with you re: cooking blood sausage (Blutwurst) out of the casing. My Mom always cooks it in the casing initially but then splits it towards the end to achieve the very texture you mentioned--less soft and moist.

Pretty neat that they have a selection of ice cream coupes on the menu. These are *extremely* popular in Austria where they are called "Eisbecher". The Salzburger Nockerl looks like a textbook example!

edited to add: It would be interesting to try their Backhendl or "Austrian Fried Chicken". This is a very traditional Austrian dish and the versions I have had in Austria have always been excellent. Granted these were often served on farms with freshly killed chickens.

Edited July 13, 2006 by ludja (log)

[therese]

Dinner last Monday at Blaue Gans with my husband. We were visiting NYC with the kids (details of the visit here) but fortunately the day's activities had exhausted them, and so we were left free for a late-ish dinner.

We arrived at about 8:00 to find the restaurant about one quarter occupied. Service prompt and friendly, as per our last visit. Husband asked for help choosing a wine, a white, but as it was stored someplace cold between pours I don't recall seeing the label myself. Anyway, very nice.

I started with a special, gazpacho, and husband had English pea soup with mint and pineapple. I continued with a special of veal sweetbreads with gnocchi (described as gnocchi, though they were actually shaped more like fingers than knuckles) and peaches, and husband had some sort of schnitzel.

For dessert I had poached peach with elderflower sorbet and husband had Black Forest coupe, once again breaking the rule against ever eating anything bigger than your head.

In fact, now that I think of it, the veal sweetbreads were supposed to have been an appetizer, and the mere idea that somebody could consume that dish and then go on to another savory course strikes me as improbable. I wasn't able to finish it.

Of course, I've never actually seen Sneakeater eat.

[Daniel]

Arrived here around 10:00 with the little one.. We are not horrible people, we were having an extremley rare night and what the heck.. If a 6 year old is out this late, she might as well be eating a boat load of ice cream as well..

It has been awhile since we had eaten here, so the only thing that was still in my head was the Squirrel.. A dish of hazel nut ice cream, with the meringue cookie, whipped cream and caramel sauce.. The bowl was the size of the little ones head.. We ordered some espressos and this Ice Coffee Parfait.. It had espresso ice cream..

I must say, it was a little unusual to arrive at this upscale bistro at 10.00 on a Saturday night with a 6 year old.. However, the manager was really so nice and welcoming.. Although the place was packed, there was one table up front that seated 6 people.. He had no problem giving us the table.. That says a lot because it wouldnt be outrageous for a manager to hold the table for a larger party and turn us away.. This has happed to me at many places including some of my neighborhood spots.. Actually one, which I will never go to again.. After we ordered desserts and coffee our waiter came by and asked if the little one wanted a plate of free french fries.. We said no thank you and he came back with a free third dessert..

This was the one bite chocolate lollipops served with a vanilla milkshake.. The sticks are coming out of a wooden box with holes, at the end of the stick is chocolate, dipped in batter and deep fried.. You take a bite of the cake and the chocolate melts in your mouth.. A very refreshing sip of vanilla milkshake puts it over the top..

We had our desserts and were out of there in a 1/2 hour tops.. Again, I was so impressed with the grace and class of this place.. You would think it should be the norm, but its not.. I am so appreciative.. This will be such a fun memory, laughing and eating way too much sugar late at night..

Edited November 26, 2006 by Daniel (log)