Gulf of Maine Shrimp - 2005/2006

[johnnyd]

Shrimp from the Gulf of Maine are small delicacies, weighing in at about 40-60pcs per pound. Harvested for years in boom and bust cycles, it appears the catch is on an upswing. The season is set annually taking into account rigorous sampling during prior years.

Last year, news of fresh Maine shrimp ran on the New England forum, including a visit to the Portland Fish Auction one night when shrimp boats off-loaded their catch.

Today there is an article on MaineToday.com (available for a limited time), discussing the need to set seasons for two years vs. just one to allow for adequate investment in processing equipment so that the harvest, almost 5 million pounds last year, can get to market.

With more shrimp available to be caught than in recent years, more processors are needed to buy fishermen's catches, says Harpswell fisherman Terry Alexander, chairman of the panel that is recommending that seasons be set into 2007.

"Last year they couldn't get rid of product and it was terrible," Alexander said. "We had product out there we could have caught, but there was nobody to sell it to."

Scientists say the shrimp population is stronger now than it's been since they began surveying stocks in the Gulf of Maine each summer beginning in 1984.

Purchased fresh, these shrimp are the tastiest I've ever had in North America. As such, the distance they can travel is short before rapid degredation causes spoilage. Frozen, they can extend their market reach as a viable alternative to - at the very least - those tiny, tasteless blobs found in cheap salad bars nation-wide.

Check back here during the winter months for news, pix, recipes and sourcing on Fresh Maine Shrimp from the Gulf of Maine. Shrimp season starts December 12!

From last season - February 2005:

Edited November 7, 2005 by johnnyd (log)

[bigwino]

Cannot wait for this season to begin.

Johnnyd, I'm also very much looking forward to your periodic reports and (hopefully) photo essays.

What's first on the menu when the season begins? For me, it has to be gambas al ajillo.

[ghostrider]

Thanks for the heads-up! 12/12 is on the calendar.

[docsconz]

This could be the N.A. East Coast's version of Copper River Salmon!

[mikeycook]

I grew up in Maine and am thrilled to hear this. Maine shrimp salad sandwiches for me.

[johnnyd]

Bigwino: found your gambas al ajillo recipe from last year...

I made up some gambas al ajillo for friends on Saturday night. These little babies were just perfect. Toast garlic slices in lots of olive oil (not too hot!). Take out the garlic slices and then put in the shrimp along with some dried chilies (I also added some pimenton). Poach them slowly and serve hot or warm with lots of bread and the garlic slices sprinkled on top.

They were a big hit.

Sounds delicious. A couple questions:

- Did you poach your shrimp shells-on?

- I assume the garlic stays in the oil until discoloration starts and fragrance is up-front? Longer?

- What kind of chilis do you suggest?

Thanks!

[bigwino]

I used shelled shrimp, but mostly because that's all I had access to. The shells would add great flavor to the oil, but would take away from the eating experience (IMHO). The oil tastes great anyways, so I'd save the shells for stock making.

I keep the garlic in until they're pretty crispy - so past the fragrant stage. They're little tasty garlic chips to be sprinkled at will.

As to the pepper choice, I guess it's up to the palate of the crowd. I used dried thai bird peppers - again, that's what I had. Chipotles might be fun for some heat and smokiness. I wouldn't go nuts with the heat, though. I think it would take away from the gorgeous, subtle flavors of the shrimp.

Did I mention that the leftover oil is a keeper? Great vinaigrettes and pan sauces with that stuff.

[bulevich]

Sounds awesome. Who is the best purveyor in the Portland area?

[johnnyd]

Who is the best purveyor in the Portland area?

Some would argue that the guys on the side of the road with a couple totes in the back of their pick-up are the best. I always go to Harbor Fish Market on Hobson's wharf for 99% of my seafood, they just do it right.

Here's a shot from last shrimp season:

The price that day was $1.59 per pound or $1.29/lb if you bought five or more lbs. Quite the deal.

Here they are shelled:

[esme]

I love these little delicacies. I grew up having to dehead 50 lbs at a time for winter freezing and never have been able to buy meats only. My current favorite delicacy is making stock out of the shells and cooking shrimp risotto. Nothing makes me hungrier than smelling shellfish stock. The lobster stock that they cook in the restaurant drives me to distraction and shrimp stock simmering in the house has the same effect on me.

[johnnyd]

Question esme:

When making stock, how long to you simmer the pot and to what extent do you strain the result?

My shrimp shell stock turns grey owing to the millions of eggs, intensifying the flavor. Then I use a small china cap, keeping any bits that get through as a "bonus".

I'd imagine at this point one reduces the liquid before making risotto, and my version would make it a shade or two lighter than squid ink risotto.

[esme]

I don't normally make big batches of shrimp stock, like I would for chicken or fish stocks so my routine is to buy a pound and a half of shrimp, shell them and then simmer the shells in a 2 quart pot for about an hour (Unlike chicken, I don't find that you can extract much more flavor with more time). For just Jon and myself, I too just use a fine sieve, if we have company I will sometimes go the coffee filter route for clarity. My goal is three cups of liquid, so I reduce some but not a lot. If I'm adding the meats to the risotto, I just toss them in raw when I add the butter and cheese letting the warm rice just steam them quick for me.

[johnnyd]

Opening day is tomorrow.

Saw two boats leaving the harbor about noon with BIG net spools on their transom.

Kind of like these:

I'd imagine the first auction is tomorrow night or the next day. I'll have to call the Fish Exchange and get the skinny on number of boats out.

Stay tuned!

edited 12/12:

5 boats out today. Auction at 8pm. If I hadn't blown my knee out on some ice I'd be there.

Edited December 12, 2005 by johnnyd (log)

[johnnyd]

Harbor Fish got them in this morning. The talk was all about inventing ways to have 'em.

I had mine raw, dipped in home-made ponzu as soon as I got home.

[ludja]

While I've not had raw shrimp yet, I'd be willing to try seeing the beautiful fresh specimens in the photo. What an honorable way to use the first catch! Ponzu sounds like a great accompaniement.

I guess my only reasonable chance of trying raw shrimp is to get some amaebi next time I have sushi.

Thanks johnnyd; I really enjoyed your blog last year and I"m happy that you are doing this again!

[johnnyd]

Thanks Ludja, it's a pleasure and an honor. This noble little critter deserves an audience and I am happy to oblige.

I have to say that this first batch was out of the water just less than a day when I peeled them for dipping. They tasted delicious, like I'd scooped them out of the water myself. I boiled a couple of handfuls for a dinner course last night, hand-peel and dip in hot butter like miniature lobsters - only more delicate. The roe on the underside turns pink and adds to the flavor somewhat.

[johnnyd]

Portland Fish Exchange Shrimp Auction - December 12, 2005:

5865 lbs consigned

4566 lbs sold

$0.51 - low bid

$0.51 - average

$0.51 - high bid

Retail Prices - Harbor Fish, Custom House Wharf

Whole: $1.39/lb

Headless: $4.50/lb

Peeled: $6.99/lb

Edited December 14, 2005 by johnnyd (log)

[johnnyd]

Portland Fish Exchange Shrimp Auction - December 14, 2005:

1938 lbs consigned

1938 lbs sold

$0.76 - low bid

$0.76 - average

$0.76 - high bid

A third of the volume of shrimp available at auction and the price rises 50%

[OwnReward]

Whole Foods Market in Providence (North Main Street) had them Thursday for $5.99 per pound, headless and de-egged.

I like the prices you get from the side-of-the-road guys better :-)

And I was able to introduce a friend to them who wasn't even aware that there were such delicacies...prepraration? poached very quickly, on a platter with Damariscotta and Blue Point Oysters, cocktail sauce, horseradish, and lemon for condiments, dessert of flourless chocolate torte with home made and home grown raspberry sauce, drunk with Duval Leroy Champagne. An almost perfect meal!

KV

[rlibkind]

. . . prepraration?  poached very quickly, on a platter with Damariscotta and Blue Point Oysters, cocktail sauce, horseradish, and lemon for condiments, dessert of flourless chocolate torte with home made and home grown raspberry sauce, drunk with Duval Leroy Champagne.  An almost perfect meal!

←

Okay, I'll bite. What would have made it perfect?

[fchrisgrimm]

Just picked up some yesterday from Cap'n Cliff on Route 7 in Redding CT. Not until this Fall did I realize that Cliff brought his Maine seafood van down to Fairfield County throughout the year. Hoo-Ha!

Last night we had Chipotle Shrimp over Carolina Gold rice (something I always bring back when I visit home) pilaf. (Recipes from Rick Bayless via the WSJ weekend edition.) Great stuff - the technique for the rice (start sort of like rissotto and finish in the oven) may lead us to toss the rice cooker, which invariably undercooks.

Have a half-pound of whole (lots of roe) shrimp left and guests coming for dinner (lamb shanks). Will the roe scare off the guests?

FYI, Cap'n Cliff sells 'em for...

$6.00/two pounds whole

$6.99/one pound heads-off, shells-on

$8.99/one pound headless, shellless

[OwnReward]

. . . prepraration?  poached very quickly, on a platter with Damariscotta and Blue Point Oysters, cocktail sauce, horseradish, and lemon for condiments, dessert of flourless chocolate torte with home made and home grown raspberry sauce, drunk with Duval Leroy Champagne.  An almost perfect meal!

←

Okay, I'll bite. What would have made it perfect?

←

Having someone else do the cleanup And a better oyster knife, so my lilly white hands would have remained owie-less

KV

[fchrisgrimm]

Had the roe filled shrimp tonight (boiled with bay seasoning). As a son of the South, I think the shrimp roe both tasted and felt (while eaten) like one thing and one thing only.... grits!

[johnnyd]

I think you've nailed it - maybe if one were to prepare grits in a shrimp broth?

I've often thought of the possible future of shrimp roe as a caviar, more because there is a hell of a lot of it than perhaps the culinary value. One would have to carefully remove and then brine it. It is so delicate I wonder if they would survive the process.

Portland Fish Exchange Shrimp Auction - December 18, 2005:

Landings: 7 Trucks

13969 lbs consigned

8104 lbs sold

$0.43 - low bid

$0.43 - average

$0.43 - high bid

Portland Fish Exchange Shrimp Auction - December 19, 2005:

Landings: 2 Boats; 5 Trucks

9783 lbs consigned

7851 lbs sold

$0.25 - low bid

$0.33 - average

$0.40 - high bid

No Auctions were held over the last couple of days and with prices that low, I wouldn't bother leaving the harbor. Dropped by Harbor Fish Market y'day and saw that they added a new price point: $1.00 per pound if TEN POUNDS or more purchased.

The other day I prepared a pound of shrimp in boiling water, bayleaf and peppercorn for about a minute, then tossed them, peeled, with chopped celery leaves and scallion, then a healthy squirt of lemon juice. Served still warm - no salt and pepper needed.

[Chris Amirault]

2 pounds for a shrimp boil (Old Bay in beer with a squirt of lemon just before serving) tonight as an app for a gumbo. Suck 'em, peel 'em, eat 'em. Magnificent.