Bitter Irony?

[robert brown]

Anthony, explain this one to me. In May of 2001 I dined for the first time in a long time at Les Halles, the restaurant you are associated with in terms of your book "Kitchen Confidential", which everyone knows is about restaurant shenanigans. At the time  of ordering dessert, and not before, I noticed in rather small print that a 15% service charge was included in the prices ("service compris" as they say in France, but not in New York, and not what New York diners have been conditioned to expect). None of the other three people I was with noticed it; no waiter reminded us that this was Les Halles policy; and nothing was changed on the credit card slip. (If the restaurant really wanted to go French all the way, it could have gotten the slips they use in France where there is no line for a gratuity. Short of that, one could rubber-stamp on them "tip included"). If one weren't overly observant, there does not seem to be any indication that I could see that any staff person would have told the customers not to leave the usual tip. How do you explain this? And since you pride yourself on telling it like it is, what really went on in this regard at Les Halles? i.e. who established this modus operandi and what percentage of diners ended up leaving a 30% or so gratuity?

[bourdain]

Yeah..I've seen it happen. Generally large parties--over 7 people. --And tables of Known Most-Likely To Stiff Waiter status. Approval to add a 15% surcharge is approved or denied in advance by the manager--on a case by case basis. Usually--and I mean almost always when a table is whacked the 15%, they notice it on the check, then add a few percent more on top . A full double tip cause of an unnoticed service charge? Sure. It happens. But often? No way. We like repeat customers at Les Halles. You knowingly gouge people--like you imply we are-- and customers don't come back. They tell people about it.   When a clear case of double-tipping occurs--the GM--who reviews all the tickets and  charges the next day--and reconciles with the box and the computer--will  call up customers from their credit card information and enlighten them of the fact--offering a refund or credit. Most of the waiters at Les Halles have been there for years and years . You don't stay busy with a line out the fucking door ripping off your customers.

[robert brown]

Anthony, thank you for taking the time to answer my post and those of so many others. You have been very generous with your time to the benefit of eGullet.

I have to admit that it seems to me that your reply lacks some rigor in logic. That you do not refute my statement that a 15% service charge was included in the prices negates much of what you wrote. That there is such a charge means that no one can ever stiff the service staff, nor is there need for approval to add 15% to anyone’s check. In other words, there should be no need ever to “whack” a table with a 15% service charge that is already in the prices of the food. You even appear to admit that essentially tipping twice happens from time to time. I also wonder what you mean by a “clear case” of double tipping. How is it an “either/or” phenomenon? Why is it sometimes necessary to contact a credit card holder in instances of double tipping when an alert waiter can see either by a tip added to a credit card slip or cash on the table that someone has inadvertently tipped twice? Perhaps you took my previous post as being addressed to instances in which customers at Les Halles somehow get subjected to parting with money above and beyond the “prix net” and a- few- percentage- points- gratuity system that the French have adopted. As I have tried to make clear from the start, my query and concern potentially apply to every bill-paying person who dines at Les Halles.

[bourdain]

I know absolutely nothing about any regularly applied policy of service compris or 15% service charge at Les Halles. As far as I know--no such policy or statement on the bill, or menus, or anything else exists--except on special menus printed for private events.  Service is in no way included in the price of meals at Les Halles-though it is-as I said--occasionally tacked on on the check for large parties, Brits, and others deemed likely to stiff the servers. This policy, I should point out, is widely adopted at restauarants all over NY when dealing with large--particularly European groups. In such cases that a party IS whacked for the additional 15% ,it is clearly itemized on the check. Those few times when--for instance-a new and greedy waiter chooses to allow a table to mistakenly double-tip, they are usually caught by the GM who makes appropriate moves to rectify the situation. I really have no idea about a 15% service charge built in to menu prices--especialy since I based my food cost percent on those menu prices--and can assure you, believe me--that  there's no room for an adiitional slice for the waiters. In short, There is NO 15% service charge included in the prices at the Park Avenue store. I cannot speak for Downtown, DC or Miami as I have no involvement with those stores. I really can't imagine what menu you were looking at--or how this came to pass..the only scenario I can imagine is a party menu getting mixed up with the regular ones--but party menus are always unbound, white sheets of paper. If indeed you saw a Les Halles Park Avenue menu with mention of service being included in the prices I think it would be news to the floor staff. It's certainly news to me.