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NY Suckling Pig destinations


Wilfrid

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Let's talk about fatty pork.  Steve Plotnicki referred on another thread to the current popularity of "fresh bacon" - belly pork with a crisp, crackly skin and soft flesh.  I have also noticed a taste for suckling pig around town.  I ate at Pico, the allegedly Portuguese restaurant in Tribeca, some weeks ago; didn't like it overall, but enjoyed their signature suckling pig, with skin as crunchy as hard toffee.  Fleur de Sel is offering a cold suckling pig terrine - you don't get the crackling skin, but you do get the velvety flesh, set with a little foie gras as I recall.

On Saturday, San Domenico, one of my favorite restaurants in New York, offered a suckling pig special.  It was a simple but completely satisfying presentation: a large portion of piglet, stuffed with fennel, well-peppered, and serve with a few sauteed potatoes.  Very crisp skin; the flesh a little firmer and more biteable than at Pico. SD has also figured out how to serve food hot:  heat the plate, and cover the dish on its way from the kitchen to the table.  Not rocket science.

I would be interested to hear of other good suckling pigs around town, especially in Chinese restaurants.

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The "roast baby pig" at Great NY Noodletown (Bowery at Bayard) should fill the bill for you.  It's one of the more expensive items ($6.25 over rice, as opposed to most "over rice" at $3.50 to $4.50) -- and worth every penny.  Skin as sharp as glass; a thin layer of rich fat; sweet, soft, well-flavored meat.

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Peasant, 194 Elizabeth Street, 212-965-9511, had suckling pig on the menu a few months back. Frank DeCarlo knew what to do with the crackling.

Going to Washington Park this Saturday.  After stefany's, Aaron's and Steve's reports I'm very much looking forward to my dinner.

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It's not exactly in town but close enough - there's a Portuguese place called Maquiseria. The Seabra's own it and yes they have some big commercial places but this is a small neighborhood place with an absence of tourists and lots of neigborhood Portuguese and other folks. Their focus is on seafood and they have an iced display tray in the window of the kitchen where you walk in with the day's fish visible - also a good sized fresh lobster tank. there are some interesting Portuguese traditional dishes on the menu that I haven't seen elsewhere but of interest is the fact that roast suckling pig was the daily special when I was there recently on a Sunday. We arrived late eveing and it was gone but I intend to return and try it. They also offer a very garlicky, seafood puree soup that's outstanding. If they're out of it and they offer the other seafood soup that has some crab leags and other whole items in it, just decline - the brown one that is puree only is fantastic. Can't recall the cross street but it's just off Ferry Street heading south several block past Iberia and Iberia Peninsula. I advise calling ahead to see if they have it (the suckling pig which I think is just on weekends). They should have someone who speaks English answering the phone (hopefully) but you're likely to just do some pointing with the waiters  - on my two visits the waiters spoke only Portuguese. It's about a fifteen -twenty minute leisurely walk from Newark Penn Station.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I saw suckling pig on the Patria menu, and have seen it (but not sampled it) there before. The dish was "Suckling pig loin chops with braised leg meat sauteed with white beans and calamari, slices of cured and smoked belly and topped with a chicarron (?) salad", for $26. This is available both in the main restaurant and at the bar.

Also, specific to the bar was a $10 item that I did not order, consisting of three types of empanaditas (smaller versions of a regular menu item): (1) smoked chicken stewed with panica peppers and a crisp green plantain crust, (2) jamon y queso -- manchego cheese and serrano ham with a black pepper crust, and (3) a la criolla -- with roast suckling pig with crisp yuca and a sofrito crust. I did not sample this dish. :wink:

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Chicama had it back when I was making multiple visits for a review, but it tended to run out early in the evening. Surely somebody who knows Queens well could tell us the names of a dozen Latin restaurants that serve suckling pig in profusion.

Probably not what Wilfrid was thinking of, but suckling pig is probably the best dish on the menu at Lespinasse. I think it's only on the cold-weather menus, though.

Steven A. Shaw aka "Fat Guy"
Co-founder, Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)

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I want you to sidle up to the St. Regis bar, Wilfrid, and say, "Gimme an order of baby pig from over there at Lespinasse, and a beer."

Steven A. Shaw aka "Fat Guy"
Co-founder, Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)

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