Notes on Gelato in Rome

[Andrew Fenton]

It's gotten hot again here-- temperatures in the 90's-- and so the other evening after it had cooled off a bit, I decided to take a long walk, with a theme. That theme, you ask? Baroque Rome? The splendors of antiquity? Oh no: as I said, it's hot, and hot weather demands some icy sweets.

With that in mind, I started in Trastevere. On the Lungotevere degli Anguillara, on one end of the Ponte Cestio that leads to Tiber Island, there's a little stand called Sora Mirella la Grattachecca. They've been there since 1915 and do one thing, very well: shaved ice. I have the sense that this treat used to be more common in Rome than it is now; there's another stand up the street, but grattachecca doesn't fill the streets the way gelato does. It's a shame, because as far as I'm concerned, as a hot-weather treat, it can kick gelato's butt around the corner every day of the week and twice on Sundays.

Superficially, grattachecca is like a snow cone, but I've always hated snow cones: massive granules of ice that threaten to break your teeth and lousy artificial-tasting syrup don't really have much to offer. This is a lot better, for several reasons. First, the ice is finely shaved by hand into a soft texture, then scraped into a cup. The syrup is also good quality-- for me, amarena (sour cherry)-- and you know, actually, like, tastes what it's supposed to be. And best of all, they top the concoction with a little bit of fruit: in this case, a few sugared black cherries.

This gave me the strength I needed to cross the bridge into the centro storico, where I wandered (lonely as a cloud) and ended up not in a field of daffodils, but the Campo di Fiori. There I walked by the famous forno, which, I'm told, turns out the best pizza bianca in the city. They were closed, of course (damn you, August!) but the sign promised that they will be back later in the month.

And finally, ground zero for frozen goodness: Giolitti, near the Pantheon and in the eyes of many, the best gelato Rome has to offer. How can you live up to that? It's hard, but they make a good go at it. They have a wide selection of flavors (Champagne gelato, anyone?) but when it's hot I like to go for fruit: this time, I tried mora (mulberry) and lampone (raspberry, which had just come out from the back: good to see that they make the gelato continuously) topped with a nice big dollop of soft, fluffy panna. I don't, frankly, know what to make of the mora: its color was outstanding, purple verging on black, but had a flavor that you might describe as "subtle" or, less charitably, "not much". But I'll be honest: I don't think I've had mulberry before (I just like Pyramus and Thisbe), so that might be a characteristic of the fruit. Lampone, on the other hand, was outstanding. You know how raspberries (and some other berries, too, like blackberry) have, underneath the bright berry flavor, a sort of green, vegetal taste? I don't know if it comes from the seeds or what, but the presence of that flavor has always been a touchstone for me in judging whether a gelato is really good. Giolitti's lampone had it, oh yes. Good stuff, and I'll be back.

I couldn't eat any more sweet stuff that night, but the next afternoon's walk oh-so-conveniently brought me back to the neighborhood of the Pantheon (hey, it was closed before. What's a guy supposed to do?) This time around, I went over to the dark side-- literally, in this case-- at Tazza D'Oro. This is another super-famous place; one of the top caffes in the City, and particularly well-known for their granita di caffe.

I don't remember exactly when granita machines started appearing in cafes in the US: maybe the mid- or late 90s? I was never all that impressed; they always struck me as sort of a fancy, or at least Italianified version of a milkshake, sort of like the frappucino explosion that hit a few years later. Mostly sweet, not much character. But Tazza d'Oro's granita is the real deal: sweet, true, but with a dark richness that comes from using absolutely first-rate coffee. It's very strong, like good (frozen)espresso, but without any bitterness. And it doesn't hurt that the granita comes sandwiched between two layers of first-rate whipped cream, like a coffee parfait. You can scarf it down at the bar, or take it to the steps of the Pantheon and savor it as you watch people pass by.

Finally (and irresistably, if non gelato-ally), I felt that it'd be wrong to check out Tazza d'Oro without hitting its competitor, Caffe Sant' Eustachio. This is the Rolling Stones to Tazza d'Oro's Beatles (or maybe it's a Roma/Lazio sort of thing, if you prefer a soccer analogy): you're supposed to like one or the other. I can't make a fair comparison yet, but the espresso at Sant' Eustachio is wonderful; I don't know what sort of black magic they use, but somehow they wind up with pillows of smooth crema that covers the coffee. Lovely. What's a little bit surprising about Sant' Eustachio is just how unprepossessing it is from the outside. From its reputation as a temple of the bean, you'd expect something huge; but it's almost literally a hole in the wall. But a hole in the wall that knows its way around coffee...

[Tess]

You're making me Romesick! Oh, those places by the Pantheon. I used to get granita at Tazza d'Oro a couple of times a week.

[Andrew Fenton]

You're hard core: I don't know that I could do granita di caffe more than once a week! It's not as sweet as gelato, but it's so rich that I don't think I'd want it too often, even (or maybe especially) when it's hot out. I think that for me, granita, like cookies for Cookie Monster, "is a sometimes food."

[Tess]

True confessions: when I went to school in Rome, I had gelato or granita-- and that's it-- for lunch almost every day. It was great! I don't think I'd do that again, though.

[Andrew Fenton]

hey, what else is youth for? Sounds pretty good...

[divina]

San Eustachio's secret is sugar!!!

I remember getting the same effect in Greece, they would give you your pot of coffee, then you would put our sugar in the cup, with just a couple of drops of coffee and whisk the hell out of it creating this fabulous sweet creaminess.

The when you slowly poured the rest of the coffee in.. magic!

looked like the BEST expresso..

they also did this with Nescafe..enough sugar makes anything better!

I adore the granita at Tazza d'oro too, and like the intrique at San Eustachio..

( you can't see what they are doing, they keep their backs to you) and speak up of you want it without sugar!

next time I will order it without and see if it still has the CREAM...

[Andrew Fenton]

Interesting; I ordered it without sugar and there was lots and lots of crema. So I don't think that's the secret- though in the interests of research, I ought to go back and order it both ways. I agree absolutely about the intrigue and mystique: what's the guy doing behind the bar? Something Aleister Crowley-esque, no doubt.

[Raj Banerjee]

Seriously making me miss Rome too, and I was there just a couple of months ago...weather would be a sight nicer than London too, although today's not too bad.

I really enjoyed San Crispino, on the Via Della Panetteria, just north of the Trevi Fountain (although this place isnt a tourist trap, honest)...now where do I go in London for the same thing...Gelateria Valerie is the only place I can think of close by...theres a place in Sth Kensington, near the station, thats not too bad...hmm...

Cheers

Raj

[KSPS]

You're making me seriously jealous! We did the Florence gelato/art scene last month, but I've been gelato free since returning home.

Here are some additional recs for gelato in Rome:

Della Palma (Via della Maddelena 20/23): This is located on the road heading north out of the Piazza della Rotunda on the left with your back towards the Pantheon. This is not the place to go for those who have difficulty making up their minds. The variety is daunting! The quality is very high here -- about on par with Giolitti -- but I think the other places I mention have creamier gelato. The strong appeal for this place is the opportunity to try unique flavors. Their chocolate -- in its infinite varieties -- is the draw for me here.

Cremeria Monteforte (Via della Rotunda 22): The place has quality that rivals San Crispino, which is routinely dubbed the best gelato in Rome. The flavors are very, very intense; their pistachio sets the standard. This place is tiny and looks like nothing much. As a result, the crowds are less here than at the name places, like Giolitti, or glitzier places, like Della Palma, in the Piazza della Rotunda area.

Fiocco de Neve (Via Del Pantheon 51): This is located on the road heading north out of the Piazza della Rotunda on the right with your back towards the Pantheon. Traditional assortment of flavors and very, very high quality. Their intense, dark, not-too-sweet chocolate is my absolute favorite.

San Crispino (Via della Panetteria 42) : This is the place to go to try fruit gelato and adult flavors like liquor or liqueurs. Wonderfully intense version of anything they make. Perhaps the antiseptic appearance of the place puts people off. For a location close to the Trevi Fountain and its reputation as the best gelato in Rome, the place has been remarkably empty all the times I've gone there. Even without having heard about this place, the rave reviews posted should draw in more customers.

[Andrew Fenton]

Thanks for the recommendations, Raj and KSPS. I know of San Crispino, but haven't yet been there: truth be told, the Pantheon area is sort of out of my way. But worth a trip, oh yes.

Today: Gelateria San Pancrazio. In Monteverde, on the Piazza San Pancrazio, right next to the entrance to the Villa Doria Pamphili. Doria Pamphili is the largest park in Rome-- it sort of has a Prospect Park feel to it, only with a few more 18th century villas thrown into the mix-- and since I'd gone running there this morning, I felt entitled to a little gelato this afternoon.

I usually prefer fruit gelato, but San Pancrazio specializes more in non-fruit flavors, including several variations on chocolate (such as cioccolato con peperonicini, in a tub with a big dried ancho on top. They are justifiably proud of this; sweet at first, but with a real bite!) I'm not crazy about chocolate, but you gotta go for what's good, right? Anyway, I tried cioccolato fondante, and was glad I did: rich and dark, like melted, frozen Valhrona. This is a real find. I also had licorice, which was solid, but not nearly as intense as the chocolate.

Finally, I had a bite or two of the budino. I didn't know what this was-- it's the Italian word for "pudding"-- but it turned out to be butterscotch, and absolutely amazing. That's what I'll get next time I go back...

[plragde]

On our recent repeat visit to Rome, Cremeria Monteforte was the surprise winner in the gelato category, beating out San Crispino. A few of the San Crispino flavours were not as intense as they should be, while everything at Monteforte was excellent over several visits. Della Palma was a disappointment; loads of choices (some absurd), but major attitude from the server, and no one was very impressed with the product.

Divina is right. (By the way, divina, I appreciated the information on your Web page, especially the recommendation for Bar dell'Orso, a place I would never have glanced at otherwise.) My cup of Sant'Eustachio coffee was gritty at the bottom, as they hadn't stirred it enough to dissolve the sugar. It, like the one I had on the last visit, was nothing special. Tazza d'Oro was better this time, but still couldn't match Caffe Farnese. None of the other espressos I tried were worth mentioning. (I roast my own coffee and pull my morning doppio ristretto on an Elektra, so I am hypercritical in this category.) The granita at Tazza d'Oro is good, though I'd prefer the frozen crystals to be just slightly smaller. --PR

[Andrew Fenton]

Divina is right. (By the way, divina, I appreciated the information on your Web page, especially the recommendation for Bar dell'Orso, a place I would never have glanced at otherwise.) My cup of Sant'Eustachio coffee was gritty at the bottom, as they hadn't stirred it enough to dissolve the sugar. It, like the one I had on the last visit, was nothing special.

And yet, as I said, I had it without sugar, and there was an almost pornographic amount of crema. So I don't buy that explanation.

[viejomajadero]

KSPS and PLRAGDE

You are right about Monteforte (not Cremeria by the way according to their stub)

Was in Rome late July. Went to Giolitti. Did not know the rules. Waited on line for gelato. Got to the counter only to be told to que up by the register first. Went to the register. Second in line. Lady at the register looks at us in line while talking to a friend. This went on for five minutes. Never stopped talking. Never took anyones money. I started yelling and walked out.

Walked down Via Della Rotunda to Geleteria Monteforte. Had great gelato without the Bull. Was treated respectfully every night. Teriffic people. Gelato at night in the shadows of the Pantheon, can it get any better!

As for espresso. I love Capuccino. Was told to go to Sant'Eustachio. Was OK but found the place more of a "scene" than anything. Best capuccino for me in Rome was after dinner at Campana.

Viejo

Edited September 17, 2005 by viejomajadero (log)