Watermark

[jamiemaw]

I've started a new thread to segue the discussion of the food, design and overall context for Watermark which has survived both the three year ordeal of its NIMBY neighbours and those that found its unfinished exterior aesthetically challenging. This evening I'll post some of the items from the (quite interesting) development menu.

It's my opinion that Vancouver wants for ways to connect to our waterfront--especially with eating and drinking opportunities--and that additions such as Watermark are welcome. My fear with such venues is that they become ubiquitous 27% food cost emporia with interchangeable menus and gummable fish fillets.

Watermark opened its beach concession on the lower level yesterday at noon. The lead indicator that it was (finally) opening was the rumble of the Neptune trucks through our neighbourhood. The menu is proforma dine-and-dash stuff--it will raise more eyebrows than expectations. That being said, there is a dog fountain.

I toured the upper level restaurant yesterday. It's a gorgeous, clear-span space that properly looks like Vancouver brought to the beach. Of other recently opened Vancouver dining rooms, I'd say it most closely resembles David Nicolay's design at Coast. There are, however, a couple of design flaws, but you'll have to wait to read about them elsewhere.

In order to placate the neighbours and give City Hall planners something to sell (c.f. the kiboshed Wal-Mart design), the heat/cool system is geothermal, old-hat in the Okanagan but a newish technology in Vancouver.

The views into the westerly breeze are, as you might expect, exceptional. The beach level foreground reveals floss aplenty (which I would more typically reserve for after my short-ribs), insufficiently SPF-ed bus-ins from the eastern suburbs, and shaved steroidals with upsetting tatts. The Felines (aka Lions' cheerleading squad) were hawking their calendars (at two for a mere $10 they are affordable for both workshop and garage), a pleasing contrast to the mouldering Liberian freighter in the background.

There are 180-licensed seats (restaurant, patio, food bar, bar bar, lounge etc.), although it's clear that the room could easily accomodate another 90 to 100--thank the neighbours. The balcony is generous, and on warm days the sliding doors can be opened entirely, exposing the whole restaurant to the elements but not to smokers: Watermark is billing itself as a smoke free restaurant, both indoors and out. Now that's geothermal.

Watermark opens this Thurday at lunchtime.

Edited July 18, 2005 by jamiemaw (log)

[jamiemaw]

Watermark, get set, go . . .

There’s an interesting irony (at least in an Alanis Morisette isn’t-that-ironic kind-of- way) about Watermark. Brent Davies, who has a hammerlock on destination waterfront/view leases from the City of Vancouver and federal governments (Sequoia, Seasons, Cardero’s and Sandbar) lost the bid for this foreshore concession and CFD opportunity. But his lead chef didn’t—Lynda Larouche (Teahouse/Sequoia, Seasons)—will be heading the handsome new display kitchen that also features a large wok station.

The test menu—which goes to live feed in just four days—reveals that she’s had quite a hand in its development. That’s because to some extent it defies the kind of ubiquity we’ve come to loathe in Vancouver’s oceanside restaurants, where an over-reliance on the grill, deep fryer and portion-controlled, boneless fish fillets have been the order of the day

That being said, there’s bound to be an interesting culture (and sartorial) clash at Watermark. There will be folks wandering in off the beach in sandals and t-shirts, as well as destination tourists and even ladies who lunch. The menu has to cheerfully serve these warring demos, while still delivering a fairly hefty check average--the building cost between $5.8 and $7 million, depending on whether you ask the owner or the manager.

So I was curious to note that the lunch and dinner item pricing is the same, with some add-ons in the evening such as a dry-aged New York steak with roasted garlic demi ($25.95), and lamb chops with minted quinoa and baby carrots in a balsamic reduction, (at $27.95 the most expensive dish on the menu). Of course the real test will come on rainy Tuesday nights in November, when I think the dinner menus are going to have to leave the lunch pricing behind and take the pricing uptown. The financial effect of banning outdoor smoking will be significant, especially as the walk of shame down a very long staircase for a gasper is a minimum ten-minute round trip. So expect to see the room wind down early--right after its second turn, in other words--and few to linger longer.

Right now, pans and grills are are being seasoned and servers are bent over their service manuals, no doubt studying chapters called 'Specific Procedural Directives' and 'Suggestive Selling'.

Here are some sample dishes from the development menu. As noted above, prices are the same at lunch and dinner for the majority of the menu items:

Starters

• Prawn spring rolls with mushrooms and water chestnuts in wasabi-yogurt dipping sauce ($7.25)

• Tempura chilli smelts, balachaung plum dipping sauce ($6.95)

• Smashed minted lima beans and chick peas with crumbled feta, tomato oil and sesame crisp bread ($6.95)

• Lobster dumplings with mango salsa and shoyu ($9.95)

• Albacore tuna (yeah!) tartare with pozu vinaigrette ($10.95)

• Octopus carpaccio with sliced sweet onions, capers, evoo ($8.75)

• Wok island clams with garlic, shallots, white wine, parsley butter ($10.25)

• Hand-peeled shrimp cocktail, house chilli sauce ($11.95)

• Sautéed mussels with tamarind, ginger, cocnut milk, smabal, tomato concasse ($9.95)

Salads

• Iceberg lettuce with baby shrimp, candied pecans, sliced peaches, diced sweet onions and tomato-Roquefort dressing ($11.95)

• Dungeness crab salad with melon balls, scallions, balsamic reduction and mascarpone dressing ($12.95)

Mains

• Beef hamburger with lettuce, tomato, house mayo on a toasted walnut and onion bun ($11.95)

• Claypot bone-in chicken 5-spice, with ginger and scallion ($19.95)

• Surf clam vongole with garlic, parsley, chilli, white wine and evoo ($14.95)

• Shaken garlic beef with toasted peanuts, pickled ginger, julienned vegetables and glass noodles ($16.25)

Desserts (all $7.25)

• Creamy cheesecake with wild huckleberry compote, mint coulis

• Valrhona chocolate raspberry cake, bittersweet ganache

• Sorbetto: ‘waves’ of lychee, passion fruit, wild strawberry and green apple

• Manjari chocolate and tangerine orange brulée

Edited July 18, 2005 by jamiemaw (log)

[kontemporary]

ICEBURG LETTUCE? Blasphemy.. especially for one dollar more you can get the dungeness crab salad.. But the menu looks like an eclectic Vancouver mix with a large price range going from the burger to the steak. Ultimately.. my prediction is that the restaurant will live not off of its food, but largely it's great view, patio, and convenience for those who happen to be in the neighbourhood. A case probably similar to Cardero's and Aqua Riva. The food is good, but nothing amazing. I'm not sure how the direct clash of sandal-wearers and white tablecloth (if there is even white tablecloth) will fare out.. but we'll see how the restaurant tackles the menu from the awaited opening.

[jamiemaw]

ICEBURG LETTUCE? Blasphemy..

←

Yes, a titanic clash is predicted with the iceberg. Women and children off first, please or at least hide your eyes. Some people dislike it (you) while others extol its principal pleasure (me), as a crunchily familiar means of conveying blue cheese to the mouth.

Edited July 18, 2005 by jamiemaw (log)

[kontemporary]

The pairing is true.. but for 11.99 I'm hoping you either get a lot of cheese in that dressing or a lot of those baby shrimps.

[seanw]

I think i will give the mussels a miss.....the cocnut milk is not on my 'to do' list. I'm sure this will be the first incarnation of many(mucho money, mucho pressure!) hope they have designed a kitchen space that can perform & allow flexibility.

[jamiemaw]

I think i will give the mussels a miss.....the cocnut milk is not on my 'to do' list. I'm sure this will be the first incarnation of many(mucho money, mucho pressure!) hope they have designed a kitchen space that can perform & allow flexibility.

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The main restaurant kitchen (there's another downstairs for the concession) is enormous and beautifully equipped. Lynda brought back a lot of equipment from Paris as well.

Edited July 18, 2005 by jamiemaw (log)

[Badiane]

Watermark, get set, go . . .

• Shaken garlic beef with toasted peanuts, pickled ginger, julienned vegetables and glass noodles ($16.25)

[

←

Will someone please tell me what Shaken Garlic beef is? Is the Garlic shaken? Throttled at harvest? Traumatized in some way? Is it the beef that is shaken? I have been cow tipping, but never shaking...I don't think a nervous cow would be very tender.

Seriously, what the heck is it?

[*Deborah*]

I was picturing some highfalutin' Shake 'n Bake scenario...

[Daddy-A]

Will someone please tell me what Shaken Garlic beef is?  Is the Garlic shaken?  Throttled at harvest?  Traumatized in some way? Is it the beef that is shaken?  I have been cow tipping, but never shaking...I don't think a nervous cow would be very tender.

I was thinking the server came to your table with a large glass jar, and the ingredients. Ingredients are tossed into the jar, and then ... ummm ... shaken.

Don't credit me with this brilliant idea (please! ). KFC came up with the idea a while back CLICK

A.

[Badiane]

I had a James Bond scenario in my head...

I will have the beef...shaken, not stirred.

[jamiemaw]

I think i will give the mussels a miss.....the cocnut milk is not on my 'to do' list. I'm sure this will be the first incarnation of many(mucho money, mucho pressure!) hope they have designed a kitchen space that can perform & allow flexibility.

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This is reassuring, Sean.

[seanw]

Jamie,

I attended Leeds Uni in U.K., which other than more recent infamy associated with current events; was home to Marc Almond who apparently was quite a gourmet of cocnut milk, fortunately my bedsit land experience differed appreciably!

[Foodie in Vancouver]

We recently had "Shaken Beef" at the Red Door and as far as I could tell, it was simply stir-fried. So maybe when you have stir-fry at a wannabe upscale restaurant they call it shaken so as not to be confused with the neighbourhood Chinese joint?

[jamiemaw]

Jamie,

                  I attended Leeds Uni in U.K., which other than more recent infamy associated with current events; was home to Marc Almond who apparently was quite a gourmet of cocnut milk, fortunately my bedsit land experience differed appreciably!

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Almond-coconut? Although the way you're spelling it leaves some questions still unanswered.

[seanw]

Jamie,

I shall refer you to your original post of the menu.....the rest is due to a delinquent upbringing on Blackadder & Dave Allen(RIP)

[jamiemaw]

Jamie,

              I shall refer you to your original post of the menu.....the rest is due to a delinquent upbringing on Blackadder & Dave Allen(RIP)

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Egads. You have absolutely no idea how troubling this is to a Virgo. Along with my English master, the Marx Bros. (and George Kauffman) must be rolling in their graves too.

My weak spelling has likely begged the question (see upthread) as to what shaken beef really is as well.

But now, back to our regularly scheduled programming.

Watermark was featured on the late news tonight. At least the concession stand part. The angle? Westside POSH. As in the serving of sushi, fresh fruit salads and Ben & Jerry's kind of posh. I had no idea Neptune was doing sushi actually, but at my advanced age am thrilled in being so easily surprised.

Edited July 19, 2005 by jamiemaw (log)

[Matt R.]

Watermark opened its beach concession on the lower level yesterday at noon. The lead indicator that it was (finally) opening was the rumble of the Neptune trucks through our neighbourhood. The menu is proforma dine-and-dash stuff--it will raise more eyebrows than expectations. That

Does this concept concern anyone else? The train of National delivery trucks says a lot about the food being prepared.

What I want to know is where was Cara foods when all this went down. This seems like prime real estate for them.

-- Matt.

[Vancitygirl]

I just called and the restaurant - supposed to open today, but "not for a few more days". Asked if menu was online yet - no. So, got the run down.

Asian inspired, a lot of seafood, pizzas, spring rolls, clams, shrimp, mussels, 6 dinner salads, ceaser, etc.

Burgers, Steak, Duck, Chicken, Lamb, Stirfries

What would have been awesome is if the downstairs concession was the second home to Go Fish - where is Gord when we need him!

Edited July 20, 2005 by Vancitygirl (log)

[*Deborah*]

Occupancy Permit granted.

[jamiemaw]

I just called and the restaurant - supposed to open today, but "not for a few more days".  Asked if menu was online yet - no.  So, got the run down.

Asian inspired, a lot of seafood, pizzas, spring rolls, clams, shrimp, mussels, 6 dinner salads, ceaser, etc.

Burgers, Steak, Duck, Chicken, Lamb, Stirfries!

←

Some highlights of the menu are covered in Post #2 on this thread.

[Daddy-A]

I'll do some reconnaissance work tonight before volleyball. Sadly it sounds like it will only be the concession. I was hoping for some shaken beef

A.

[Daddy-A]

I'm happy to say that both the concession and the washrooms at Watermark are now open. The washrooms are smaller than they used to be, and the showers are missing! Nothing to do with food I know, but a pain in the ass if you're covered in sand after 2 hourrs of volleyball

The concession offers the regular fare, along with sushi, fruit salad and what looked like a caesar. Saddly, hot dogs were not available last night ... another victim of the container driver strike? The "room" is pretty cool. Garage-style doors are three walls, allowing the "sweet" smell of Kits weed to waft through as you enjoy your fish & chips. There's a fireplace as well, so I assume this place will be open late-ish.

I chose to sample the cappucino slurpee. An unfortunate choice. Coffee flavoured foam. Should have stayed with Mango.

A.

[kontemporary]

Does anyone know the exact date they're planning to open now, after the last pushback?

[*Deborah*]

They have their Occupancy Permit; they were training staff off-site; my understanding is that they are open for business today, although I could be wrong.