Jump to content
  • Welcome to the eG Forums, a service of the eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters. The Society is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization dedicated to the advancement of the culinary arts. These advertising-free forums are provided free of charge through donations from Society members. Anyone may read the forums, but to post you must create a free account.

desperately seeking sonker


debbiemoose

Recommended Posts

from Mount Airy, North Carolina

the annual Sonker Festival held at the historic Edwards-Franklin House on the first Saturday of October from 1pm-5pm. This year the event takes place on October 1, 2005.    This is a daylong festival honoring the Appalachian deep-dish pie called the "sonker", with old-time stringband music and dance.

Melissa Goodman aka "Gifted Gourmet"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I enjoy learning new words from fellow eG's, but had there not been a couple of answers after the original question, I would have replied that I did not know, other than the word that I learned from a woman in the DEEP South. She had done a bit of housecleaning for my Mother, and in the process, somehow convinced Mother that she could cook.

And in the ensuing years, my parents were subject to any and all of Rodellar's bits and bobs of arcane culinary history. She prepared odd breads and custards and five hundred ways to cook greens and/or grits. And one day, Mother was interrupted at work by a call: "I'm making a cobbler; do you want sankers in it?"

A quick mental inventory of the pantry and freezer contents turned up no fruit or other ingredient that would serve to be called by that name. Mother then asked, "I never heard of that, Rodellar; what IS it?"

The reply, in a tone of careful consideration for the feelings and the ignorance of the questioner, was, "You know--SANKERS. You can make cobbler some several ways--you can put the crust on top. You can put strips on top. You can drop dumplins on top. Or you can put the strips on, let 'em cook a little bit, then you push 'em under and put some more strips on top. That's a cobbler with sankers."

And they were quite tasty, as well. Rodellar and my parents muddled through several years before my Mom's retirement and permanent reclaiming of her own kitchen. I have several memories relating to her tenure in the kitchen I grew up in, though many years separated our use of it. There was the daughter-in-law who worked for Mother previously, whose homecoming call from her husband on the day he was released from prison resulted in a childhood memory for me that has lasted as indelibly all these years.

We were eating our noon dinner, and the phone rang. "It's for you, Margaret," Mother said. She talked for a moment, returned to the table, and picked up her plate. She went over to the drawer where we kept the folded grocery bags, retrieved a small one, and began to scrape the contents of her plate into it. We looked at her for a moment, then Mother asked, "Do you have to leave right now?" and she said yes she'd better go on. Mother then said, "Let me get you a plate you can take your dinner home on and eat it later...we'll fix you another plate---that's all jumbled up now."

Margaret continued to scrape macaroni and cheese, ham, and field peas into the bag, which immediately bloomed a huge grease stain on the bottom. It began to spread up the sides, clearing as it went, so that the colors of the food were outlined against the golden-greased paper like watercolor flowers. "No, thanks. I'm not hungry right now. He can have this for his supper."

Even as a child, my dismay at the innocence and the hardship of that small offering was something to remember. I could only think what MUST have been in her own larder, that a bag of thrown-in food from someone else's dinnerplate would seem like a good homecoming. That moment of sacrifice and making do has haunted me for years.

Another daughter-in-law (wife of a son who moved away and prospered, marrying a lovely young woman who was a college professor) surprised and startled me one day as I went in the back door to cook for Mother's expected houseguests.

Rodellar was unable to come to work, so the dear, multi-degreed, multi-lingual DIL was standing there in a puddle, manning the mopbucket FAR FAR from her home and her university life, mopping a stranger's kitchen in order to help out her husband's mother.

And when Daddy closed out our family home after Mother passed on, and we all gathered to help move and to carry home the things of our childhoods and fondest memories, there was a tiny inscription inside a cabinet door in Rodellar's shaky hand: "When mint hand get on 11, put potace on." I almost dismantled the door and brought it with me...I'd proudly hang it in MY kitchen, testament to two women, two good cooks, separated by the customs of their time, but united in friendship and their love of cooking.

And I can still hear the big brown fieldpeas rattling into that greasy paper bag.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
×
×
  • Create New...