[CHI] Alinea – Grant Achatz – Reviews & Discussion (Part 1)

[mimblewim]

...My own personal quandary was that I was unsure whether or not I tipped enough.  I would have liked to have tipped more than I did, as my sister and I had such a wonderful time, but after all is said and done, I'm still a college student.  If you are reading this and work at the restaurant, my tip belies the fact that I'm a student, rather than how much fun I had!

←

How much did you tip? If 15% or more - you're fine. Robyn

←

20%. I just thought it deserved more.

[Lactic Solar Dust]

So, are you implying that chefg and the rest of the kitchen crew at Alinea eat a lot of grapes these days?

I'd still love to hear what (if anything)  really stood out in your experience there.

←

Lol, I know I ate a lot of the grapes that I screwed up on which of there were many. I do not know if this is the correct forum to tell my experiences while I was staging at Trio, but if it is not I am sure that Ronnie will be quick to say so.

What stood out the most to me was how much Chef Grant was really involved in the day-to-day tasks that the kitchen had. He would sweep, mop, wipe down work areas, set his own station at the passe, work the line on occasions, butcher meat and fish, among many other things. This is a rarity among the high-end kitchens that Trio is comparable to. While I worked at NoMi I never saw Chef Gamba once do anything other than office-type work. He would always wear a chef uniform, but I never understood why, because he never worked in the kitchen. I also had the same encounter while I staged at Tru, Rick Tramanto was always in the office, never dressed in his uniform, although I did see Gale Gand work in her pastry kitchen with her fellow pastry cooks. As a young cook seeing a chef of the calibur as Chef Grant sweeping and mopping until the floor is perfectly clean, working as neatly as possible, takjing great care in the minimal tasks, it makes you want to be the same way, and understand that it if you seek perfection and enjoyment in the day-to-day tasks then you have the passion that it takes to rise to the top.

Another thing that stood while I was there was the relentless pursuit of perfection and to settle for nothing less. And this ideal is not only taken on by Chef Grant, but by every Chef that works there. Be it sweeping and mopping, chopping parsley, or pan-roasting a filet of lamb everything is done how it should be to the very slightest detail, no compromises whatsoever.

You have to be dedictaed to work there, also. The chefs arrive at 10 in the morning everyday and are on there feet for 16 hours. After service they have a meeting that goes over and hour, around 1 or 2 in the morning, in which they discuss what went right and what went wrong in that nights service, new ideas, and orders that need to be faxed for tomorrow's day. All the chefs there are so dedicated and they don't make much money at all which is the norm among high-end restaurant kitchens.

And one last thing that stood out was Chef Grant's humbleness. He is a part of the team, not like many other super-star chefs in which they are the CHEF with a bunch of lowly cooks below them doing all the real work, whiel the supposedly superstar chef recieves all the acolodades. This is a very special quality that Chef Grant which endears him top many young cooks who want to go far in the buisness. While I was there he actually referred to me as"Chef". Everyone is referred to as Chef there.

It was a defintely a rewarding expeirence. I havenothing but the utmost respect for what the people at Alinea are doing right now.

[robyn]

...My own personal quandary was that I was unsure whether or not I tipped enough.  I would have liked to have tipped more than I did, as my sister and I had such a wonderful time, but after all is said and done, I'm still a college student.  If you are reading this and work at the restaurant, my tip belies the fact that I'm a student, rather than how much fun I had!

←

How much did you tip?  If 15% or more - you're fine.  Robyn

←

20%.  I just thought it deserved more.

←

20% is our norm. A couple of percent more if the service is terrific - a couple of percent less if it's subnormal (but not terrible). I think 20% is fine. Don't worry about it. Robyn

[Michael Ruhlman]

That's way gross, Luisa.

About the stem:  it was only my friend Michael Ruhlman who alleged that the cool part was leaving the stem connected while you peel the grape.  I'll have to try this several dozen times, but I believe that this adds only a small amount of effort to the actual peeling.

←

fyi, this from one of the chefs, Mary Radigan, who has done her fair share of peeling:

"I do feel it is more difficult to peel it on the stem just because it is another thing you have to keep intact.  It is easier to do from the bottom to the top because there is less taring towards the stem."

And I do know that family meal salad includes a helluva lot of grapes.

[molto e]

I did the Tour for the second time and Chef G has thrown Alinea into another gear. I have many pictures, but for whatever reason eGullet will not take them all. The Tour went like this:

Cucumber-mango, several aromatics

Sour Cream-smoked salmon, sorrel, pink peppercorn

Milkweed Pod-green tea, salt, sugar

Heart Of Palm-in five sections

Octopus-beans, eggplant, soy

Chewy Balsamic-tomato, nectarine, arugula

White Bass-shellfish, waterchestnuts, floral vapor

Lamb-dijon, lemon, california laurel branch

Beef-flavors of A-1

Blackberry-tobacco, long pepper, smoke

Zucchini-angelica, goat cheese, mint

Yogurt-apricot, eucalyptus

Cherry Ice-quinine,toffee

Chanterelle-kola nut, sunflower seeds, plantain

Snap Peas-tofu, pillow of lavender, ham

Litchi-horseradish, chervil juice, oyster cream

Lobster-chanterelles, ravoli of coconut powder

Squab-Watermelon, foie gras, black licorice

Bison-truffle, pistachio, sweet spice

Bacon-butterscotch, apple, thyme

Maytag Blue-wild celery, walnut milk, red wine

Corn-honey, tonka bean, hyssop

Verbena-buckwheat, lime, buttermilk

Raspberries-red bell pepper, milk curd, rose

Liquid Chocolate-dandelion root, chicory, banana

Sponge Cake-sour cherry, vanilla fragrance

Tarragon-crispy foam

I really liked the my first Tour, but I liked this one at least 25% more. The flavors were bigger, bolder and I liked the wine pairings more as well. Chef G says that he has a lot of cool things that are in the works to go on the menu in the near future. I will return for sure as Chef G changes the Tours in the future. The Verbena is like a warm filled donut hole that was AWESOME!!! I wanted to ask for more of those. The Cherry Ice was good, really cool with a liquid center. The Litchi was cool with the Litchi simulating the look and feel of an oyster. The Milkweed Pod was not really for me, but one of my fellow diners thought is was the best pod she had ever tasted. The Squab with the Foie was lucious and they give more bread to soak up the sauce. I am not sure if anyone has mentioned the butter choices on the table-conventional wisconsin butter and goat butter that is great!! The chanterelle soup with the sunflower seeds was delicious. I will try to figure out what my upload issue is and post more pictures in the future.

Good Eating,

Molto E

[tammylc]

Thanks for the update. Especially since it reminded me that it's now August, which means the October reservation book is open. I called and was able to get a Saturday night reservation for my birthday dinner. I'm totally geeked!

[docsconz]

Molto E, did you say "milkweed pod"? I had no idea that they were even edible (other than to Monarch butterflies)! What was that specific dish like?

I have to find a way to get back to Chicago.

[molto e]

Doc,

Yep, Milkweed Pod, to be honest this was not to my taste. The seasonings that were placed on it, I really did not pick up. This was like eating some kind of neutral tasting weed that may grow in your backyard or something. This was a one bite course, though I think it took me a couple of chews to get it down. I will ask my friend who thought it was the best pod she had ever tasted for a better description. I think my first Tour was June 5 and as I said I liked it, but Chef G has really found his stride in his new place. I had the opportunity to speak with him and was impressed very low key and into his craft. When he said he has some cool things in the pipeline coming on the menu in the future, I believe him and I look forward to them.

Good Eating,

Molto E

[edsel]

Molto E, did you say "milkweed pod"? I had no idea that they were even edible (other than to Monarch butterflies)! What was that specific dish like?

I have to find a way to get back to Chicago. ←

Doc,

        Yep, Milkweed Pod, to be honest this was not to my taste. The seasonings that were placed on it, I really did not pick up. This was like eating some kind of neutral tasting weed that may grow in your backyard or something. This was a one bite course, though I think it took me a couple of chews to get it down. I will ask my friend who thought it was the best pod she had ever tasted for a better description. ←

OK, I'd love for chefG (or someone else from Alinea) to elaborate. Really, is milkweed pod edible? Talk about pushing the boundaries!

[docsconz]

Gee, I have a veritable milkweed farm in my backyard!

[edsel]

OK, in all seriousness, one person's "weed" is another's culinary delight. Epazote, dandelions - off the top of my head those are "weeds" that have culinary uses. Ramps? Poke? I'm sure we can come up with an extensive list. Milkweed is a new one for me. I'm open to new ideas.

[ronnie_suburban]

We had a chance to "take the Tour" for second time last Friday and I too thought it was even better than our first time through. Most of the dishes had either been modified or replaced outright. While I missed a few of the earlier items which no longer appeared on the Tour (frog legs and morels, broccoli stem), I appreciated the fact that the menu was fresh again after just a few months. This makes me happy because frequent repeat dining at Alinea will be even more enjoyable if the menu continues to evolve with such frequency.

Some of the highlight courses for us were the amuse of Cucumber which was a thin shaving of cucumber rolled up into a loose conical spiral and filled with mango puree. Here I was surprised by the combination of flavors, which really worked for me. The contrast in textures was also satisfying.

Sour Cream had been slightly re-worked and improved. It's still the same basic concept with the frozen disc of sour cream, smoked salmon and sorrell. But the new incarnation features a delicate sprig of wild sorrell (as opposed to a larger and slighter tougher leaf of cultivated sorrell in the original) and a pink peppercorn. As the sour cream melts in your mouth, the flavors develop wonderfully but now, the light chew of the sorrell at the end matches better with the rest of the components are they are presented. The refinement here was inspired.

The Tomato course, aka Chewy Balsamic, was delicious and uniquely so. On a spoon, which is then positioned in a white china bowl, are placed a small tan square (the chewy balsamic), along with tiny little balls of tomato, nectarine and arugula. Again, the combination of flavors was fantastic and the textures were a gas. Long after the tomato, nectarine and arugula were gone I was still chewing on the tender little square of balsamic. Slowly it disappeared in my mouth -- like a savory caramel which felt like it was lasting forever. The sweet and tangy balsamic flavor that little square carried was absolutely amazing. Chef Achatz tells me that it's actually based on mochi dough. I absolutely loved this dish.

The dish which used to be Turbot in Eggless Custard with Shellfish and Hyacinth Blossom Vapor is now Striped Bass in Eggless Custard with Shellfish and Rose Petal Vapor. It may be even better. That's somewhat irrelevant because it's still one of the best dishes on the Tour. Signature dish? It could be; it should be.

There were so many other great courses but I just don't have the time to detail them all here, so I'll just breeze through a few of my favorites . . . the Hearts of Palm quintet is still fantastic and I'm pretty sure unchanged from its original inception . . . Octopus with beans, eggplant and soy was fantastic . . . Lamb with dijon, lemon and California laurel branch (the laurel branch serving as the "handle" upon which the course is served) was a delightful nugget of savory tempura goodness . . . Beef with flavors of A-1 has been given a refined plating which allows for a greate appreciation of the diverse flavor elements. It remains one of the strongest dishes on the Tour . . . Cherry Ice is a tart and sweet frozen bite that will bring you back to popsicles and cherry pie . . . Snap Peas with tofu, pillow of lavendar air and (Virginia) ham was just one of those great Achatz dishes. The combination of flavors -- one chefg has featured before at Trio -- is amazing, with the nicely-browned ham complimenting the peas as only ham can do. As you eat the dish, you also breath in sweet lavendar air, which is being "leaked" by the pillow upon which the plate sits. Amazingly, the lavendar air matches perfectly with the flavors of the dish. A fun adventure . . . Lobster with chanterelles and ravioli of coconut powder was tasty and rich . . . The Squab with watermelon, foie gras and black licorice was another one of those combinations that I would have never imagine working, yet it works. This was a dish that just blew me away . . . The Bison with truffle, pistachio and sweet spice was, I think, better than the Bison "Bong" which appeared on the original Tour. Here, the dish contains the cap of the Bison. It was just perfection . . . Bacon with butterscotch, apple and thyme was still fantastic and had also undergone some minor refinements . . . Maytag Blue with wild celery walnut milk and red wine was a great take on the traditional cheese course. It contains some frozen elements and the dish unfolds as it melts in your mouth . . . Corn with honey, tonka bean and hyssop was a perfect savory/sweet dish which was part of the multi-course transition from savory to sweet in the last part of the Tour . . . Verbena with buckwheat, lime and buttermilk was actually a buckwheat beignet filled with verbena and lime. I'm assuming that the buttermilk was part of the beignet batter, but I'm not certain . . . Raspberries with red bell pepper, milk curd and rose was great because again it featured an unlikely combination of flavors which all worked togethger. I loved the toasted bell pepper seeds which tasted a bit like pumpkin seeds . . . Liquid Chocolate was sublime; a study in flavors and textures. It was a serious and satisfying course . . . Sponge Cake with sour cherry and vanilla fragrance is still glorious and inspired. I could still smell the vanilla on my hands when I got home and it was a nice reminder of the meal.

A couple other thoughts:

Milkweed pod was one of those things where I was really appreciative for the opportunity to try it but I didn't particularly love it. It was very fresh -- dense and green-tasting. Actually the flavor wasn't bad or unpleasant but a little bland. It was similar in flavor and texture to a raw, mild brussel sprout. I was surprised because I really could not taste the green tea, salt or sugar even though I could see them on the pod itself. I gather this means that milkweed pods have a relatively strong flavor.

I don't mean to disappoint anyone but with all the recent talk here about grape peeling, it's worth mentioning that PB&J is no longer on the menu.

It was amusing that Chef Achatz mentioned to us that things were now "under control" relative to how they were on our first visit back on May 7. Fact is, from the vantage point of the dining room -- and even our glimpses into the kitchen -- it felt exactly the same. That's a testament to this seasoned crew which simply never lets you see them sweat.

The one question I had about Alinea before it opened was whether it could consistently attract repeat diners. Since the Tour is a fairly theatrical experience I wondered if many would go back to see the same play again -- or eat the exact same food again. With the amount of new dishes, revisions and seasonal adjustments we experienced on the Tour last week, just 3 months into Alinea's life, the question has been answered for me. This isn't a mere play, it's an ever-evolving culinary adventure.

=R=

[edsel]

I don't mean to disappoint anyone but with all the recent talk here about grape peeling, it's worth mentioning that PB&J is no longer on the menu. ←

Actually, this brings up a good point (or, rather a bad point ) for me. I'm happy that Alinea is evolving and growing. But I'm frustrated that I'm missing out on so many of the wonderful dishes that are served now but will be dropped soon in the name of progress. I absolutely understand the need for ChefG and staff to keep everything fresh, pushing the frontiers and all that. I just feel that I'm watching from the sidelines. Seeing the evolution of elbulli (and knowing I have scant chance of getting reservations there) is frustrating, but seeing the same sort of creativity happening within a day's drive from here (North-East Ohio) is all the more exasperating. I pop in and out of Chicago on business, always on short notice. I'm going to set aside some time for me to travel there for my own purposes. Dammit.

[ronnie_suburban]

I don't mean to disappoint anyone but with all the recent talk here about grape peeling, it's worth mentioning that PB&J is no longer on the menu. ←

Actually, this brings up a good point (or, rather a bad point ) for me. I'm happy that Alinea is evolving and growing. But I'm frustrated that I'm missing out on so many of the wonderful dishes that are served now but will be dropped soon in the name of progress. I absolutely understand the need for ChefG and staff to keep everything fresh, pushing the frontiers and all that. I just feel that I'm watching from the sidelines. Seeing the evolution of elbulli (and knowing I have scant chance of getting reservations there) is frustrating, but seeing the same sort of creativity happening within a day's drive from here (North-East Ohio) is all the more exasperating. I pop in and out of Chicago on business, always on short notice. I'm going to set aside some time for me to travel there for my own purposes. Dammit.

←

I know what you mean. I still think about Black Truffle Explosion -- which ChefG served at Trio -- at least once a week.

=R=

[molto e]

Here are the rest of the pictures that have not been posted yet

Sour Cream

White Bass

Beef

Yogurt

Chanterelle

Snap Peas-Lavender Pillow

Litchi

Bison

Corn

Verbena

Raspberries

Tarragon

Edited August 4, 2005 by molto e (log)

[Jeffrey Steingarten]

Gee, I have a veritable milkweed farm in my backyard!

←

The City of Chicago--no, the entire country--is in grave gastronomic peril when one of us writes that a friend of his found Grant's Milkweed pod "the most delicious pod she's ever tasted." It is time to eat a pastrami sandwich.

[Jeffrey Steingarten]

Jeffry, does it look like this?  This was at Alinea, blackberry dessert..

←

Yes! Those are Ferran's blackberry ovaries!

Good photo. What is the square underneath the ovaries made of?

[chefg]

Jeffry, does it look like this?  This was at Alinea, blackberry dessert..

←

Yes! Those are Ferran's blackberry ovaries!

Good photo. What is the square underneath the ovaries made of?

←

Actually no...that is a blackberry that has been cut in half. The square that it is set in is a tobacco infused cream.

[Jeffrey Steingarten]

Jeffry, does it look like this?  This was at Alinea, blackberry dessert..

←

Yes! Those are Ferran's blackberry ovaries!

Good photo. What is the square underneath the ovaries made of?

←

Actually no...that is a blackberry that has been cut in half. The square that it is set in is a tobacco infused cream.

←

I was fooled by the little ovaries that seem to have fallen off, and by the revolting quality of awful photograph. Just kidding--about the latter but not the former. I guess that Grant took the easy way out--or, more likely, he wanted the resistance and then the crunch of a half-intact berry. Is the tobacco infusion made with smoke or some form of the plant itself?

Jeffrey

[Pugman]

Last Saturday, I did the same Tour as Ronnie. This was my fourth meal at Alinea, but the first time doing the entire Tour with wine pairings (3 of us did wine pairngs, one person is a non-drinker and one person just had a few half-glasses). Six hours and 17 or so wines later, I was feeling no pain (a testament to the supremely comfortable seating...and to the miracle of fermentation).

Frankly, I was initially worried about the length of the meal-to-come. I've had several 4-hour dinners at various restaurants that left my butt, back and legs cramped and uncomfortable for a few days. And while a 6-hour meal is looooong by anyone's standards, the time really zoomed by.

I enjoyed the fact that many of the single-bite dishes had very assertive flavors (strong herbal and even minerally/medicinal flavors)--as did two of my dinng companions. The other two didn't care for the more in-your-face flavors. In fact, I'd say the "not for everyone" factor seemed to be notched up a bit compared to the opening menu...which is fine by me and not intended as any sort of criticism.

Having said that, I do miss some of the May/June dishes more than I like some of the new ones...especially the dungeness crab/raw parsnip/young coconut dish and the orange-sassafras cream dessert. But I was glad to see the beef with flavors of A1 still on the menu...it's incredible.

I can't wait to go back...but I think we'll stick to the 8- or 12-course menu (at least until the next milestone birthday.)

Time to go harvest some milkweed pods. Or not.

[VeryApe77]

Gee, I have a veritable milkweed farm in my backyard!

←

The City of Chicago--no, the entire country--is in grave gastronomic peril when one of us writes that a friend of his found Grant's Milkweed pod "the most delicious pod she's ever tasted." It is time to eat a pastrami sandwich.

←

There are those who will tell you that a well-prepared milkweed pod is easier to find in Chicago then a decent pastrami sandwich...I couldn't really comment on either with any real authority.

[chefg]

Jeffry, does it look like this?  This was at Alinea, blackberry dessert..

←

Yes! Those are Ferran's blackberry ovaries!

Good photo. What is the square underneath the ovaries made of?

←

Actually no...that is a blackberry that has been cut in half. The square that it is set in is a tobacco infused cream.

←

I was fooled by the little ovaries that seem to have fallen off, and by the revolting quality of awful photograph. Just kidding--about the latter but not the former. I guess that Grant took the easy way out--or, more likely, he wanted the resistance and then the crunch of a half-intact berry. Is the tobacco infusion made with smoke or some form of the plant itself?

Jeffrey

←

A Romeo&Julietta cigar is crumbled and steeped into cream to make the custard. It was created as a transitional course...not sweet ...not savory....but something to compliment that last swig of red wine before you head into the land of sugar and cocoa.

[Rob Simmon]

I'm heading to Chicago over the last weekend in August, and I'd like to try Alinea [which I found out about after being blown away at minibar here in Washington, DC)] but I get the sense I'm unlikely to get reservations (they're closed until Wednesday). Any suggestions if I can't get a reservation just by calling? If I can't get any, what other restaurants in Chicago should I consider? Moto? I've recently been disappointed by several well-known restaurants, and am hoping for something that will be intriguing.

thanks in advance (and apologies if this really belongs in another thread)

[Jeffrey Steingarten]

I'm heading to Chicago over the last weekend in August, and I'd like to try Alinea [which I found out about after being blown away at minibar here in Washington, DC)] but I get the sense I'm unlikely to get reservations (they're closed until Wednesday). Any suggestions if I can't get a reservation just by calling? If I can't get any, what other restaurants in Chicago should I consider? Moto? I've recently been disappointed by several well-known restaurants, and am hoping for something that will be intriguing.

thanks in advance (and apologies if this really belongs in another thread)

←

Dear Rob,

With 2 and a half weeks to spare, you might well get a reservation at Alinea. Remember that it's open on Sunday evening. Call immediately. It's worth some effort.

Many wonderful places to eat at in Chicago. You know the names. For modern food, Charlie Trotter can still not be beat, although Tru is seriously good. For hypermodern, after Alinea, there's Avenues and Moto. Green Zebra for terrific vegetarian; Blackbird for wonderful American bistro cookng (htough that sounds as though I don't take it seriusly enough), very good Italan and Spiaggia, Arun for very fancy Thai, Everest for the best modern French cooking I've had all year, and finally Topolambampo for Mesican food that may be the best in the country.

These are all famous places; I live in Manhattan and haven't been to Chicago often enough over the past ten years; when I return to Chicago, I'll try some less-known places.

Good luck!

Jeff Steingarten

P.S. I hope that at Cafe Atlantico you ate at the Mini-Bar. That's what I mean by hypermodern. Jose Ramon Andres is a wonderful cook and wonderful restaurateur.

[robyn]

<<Milkweed pod was one of those things where I was really appreciative for the opportunity to try it but I didn't particularly love it. It was very fresh -- dense and green-tasting. Actually the flavor wasn't bad or unpleasant but a little bland. It was similar in flavor and texture to a raw, mild brussel sprout. I was surprised because I really could not taste the green tea, salt or sugar even though I could see them on the pod itself. I gather this means that milkweed pods have a relatively strong flavor.>>

Is there some point at which you perhaps say that the emperor has no clothes?

I have tons of milkweed (I garden to attract butterflies and birds) - and various parts of milkweed - including the pods at times - can be poisonous unless well cooked. And even if they were well cooked - who would want to eat them - except as an extreme survival measure? If I saw a child in my garden trying to eat one - I'd grab the kid so fast it would make his head spin. Monarch butterflies have adapted to the plant's qualities - and - in fact - need milkweed to survive. But people? Robyn