TN: Four Burgs and a Loire

[jrufusj]

Here are some tasting notes from a few recent dinners in Tokyo. I've posted writeups on these meals (and a few others) here that would put the notes below in a little better context.

Le Bourguignon --

The wine list is not enormous, but is very well selected and fairly priced. Had a 2002 Maison Alex Gambal village Chassagne Montrachet. I don't often buy negoce wines for home, but the better ones often provide good value in restaurants. Gambal is one of my favorite negociants. As he has now built good relationships with his sources, he is able to work with about 60% fruit and 40% must for the whites. He also has a good degree of control of the viticulture. His wines are made in a traditional style, without excessive cooling, extended soaks or maceration, or loads of oak. This wine had a lot of color for its age, which was backed up by strong pineapple and lanolin nose, and a little sense of sweetness on a young round palate. It was in its sexy blush of youth and had just enough apparent acid to balance the richness of the foie/eel dish.

Also had a 1991 Simon Bize Savigny les Beaune Grands Liards. This was nicely mature, with a faded but bright red core and a little thinning at the edges. Bright pinot (beetroot/cherry) and tart berry fruit on the nose, along with a little hint of earth. Palate showed a little remaining greenness, along with solid plum and red berry fruit. The 1991s from the Cotes de Beaune have been much maligned and came out very, very green at release. This was perhaps a little dilute and still a little green, but it had developed very nicely for a small wine from such a vintage. I'm liking this vintage more and more each time I try it.

Finally, had a 1976 Moulin Touchais with cheese and dessert. This is a good value on the list and I love mature chenin blanc. Bottle variation, however, has long been a problem with this producer and this most recent bottle had little acid structure left and a fair degree of oxidation. Okay to drink and not bad enough to complain, but very disappointing compared to the younger tasting, fresher bottle I had last time I was here.

L'Osier --

The other three people began with a kir royale, while I began with a glass of the house Champagne. I never managed to ask what it was, but it was a damn fine house pour. May or may not have been a blanc des blancs, but was definitely at that end of the spectrum. Very fine mousse, good acid, piercing white fruit, more nuttiness than toast. Precise, delineated, but still very light (in all the best ways). Can't imagine it could have been Salon as a house pour, but was very much in that vein. Maybe the best house Champagne I've ever had.

Based on the sommelier's recommendation, we went with a '98 Domaine Cordier Pouilly Fuisse Juliette la Grande. First course was a tough match, with my oysters, the seared foie, and foie ravioli with truffle pave. '98 white burgs had nice sexy fruit and started drinking well very young, but were a bit blowsy in general. That was actually a good call with the three foie dishes, in a complement rather than contrast way. It was less good with the oysters, though the sweetness of the fennel helped bridge the gap a little. The wine was extremely open, advanced in color development, with a little more apparent oak sweetness and vanilla on the nose than I might have liked. Not my style exactly, but strongly concentrated with very ripe white and citrus fruit on both nose and palate. A little more acid and a little less oak and I would have been thrilled. As it was, very well made and very good showing for the vintage.

Any concerns about the match with my oysters went away when they brought me a glass of '96 Clos St. Hune without my asking (or paying). Just a nice thought? Or second guessing the Cordier recommendation? The Clos St. Hune was a perfect match, with great acidity, good riesling steeliness, but the generosity that only comes out in Alsation riesling. No petrol, but mineral galore. Great wine.

I wasn't ready to hear any recommendations from the sommelier on the red, as there was a '93 Montille Pommard Pezerolles on the list at a pretty reasonable price. Both Montille's wines and the 1993 vintage in Burgundy are controversial, but I happen to love both. Besides, I couldn't imagine a better match for my pigeon! For once, I was right. This wine had matured the way we always hope burgundy will. The tannins had receded way to the background, the acid was bright and strong, but very much in balance, and the secondary aromas of earth, mineral, and flower essence were coming on strong. Montille wines can be almost painfully austere when young, but the signature Montille acid provided a great structure to hold up the Pommard fleshiness. This one is drinking great right now, but should have 3-5 years development left (and a nice little holding period after that). I think the general consensus on this vintage is just going to get better and better as the wines mature. I really wish I had some of this in the cellar and will buy some if I can find it with certain good storage. Bright, clear, fleshy, getting more and more complex and oh so detailed with nice persistent finish. There are so many good winemakers in this Pommard/Volnay part of the world -- Montille, d'Angerville, Lafarge, Pousse d'Or -- and they often represent such good value on restaurant lists.

Take care and sorry for the long post,

Jim