WTN: Champagne

[Brad Ballinger]

In the Twin Cities there are several different groups of wine-lovers that get together on occasion to taste wines along a certain theme. Not all, but many of these groups are loosely associated with various web-based discussion forums. This particular tasting saw a blend of the Wine Spectator group and the eRobertParker group. I don't hang out on either of those boards, but I was on the initial e-mail distribution list because everyone knows I'm a Champagne slut. I ended up hosting this one at my home.

The notes that follow are in the order I and many others tasted the wines. I didn't write down much detail, so these are mainly impressions.

Blanc de Blancs flight:

1996 Franck Bonville Brut Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru. This was the first of several BdB wines served. It was also the most delicate and laser-beam focused. A very gentle, subtle mousse let the core wine's acidity shine through. Lots of mineral and citrus here. An almost rain water-like cleanness to this wine.

NV Pierre Peters Brut Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru. A strong yeastiness that is typical of this producer and this wine, in particular. A bit more sugar in the dosage than the other wines opened this evening. I think I made a comment toward the end of the evening that went something like, "You know it's been a good Champagne tasting when my least favorite wine was the NV Pierre Peters." Good minerality in the profile.

1998 Pierre Peters Cuvee Speciale Brut Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru. This is "older" vines fruit, about 50-60 years. And this wine has plenty of life ahead of it. Ferocious mousse, sharp acidity, powerful fruit, and a boatload of yeast. It needs to mellow out for a bit.

1996 Pierre Peters Cuvee Speciale Brut Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru. DOA. Pulled the cork -- no fizz, no vapor, no CO2 released at all. This is the third bottle that has done this from a case I ordered. Dumped it down the drain.

1995 Pierre Moncuit Brut Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru. About a year ago I had Moncuit's Cuvee Nicole BdB, which was showing some age. Not this wine, though. This is still plenty lively, and just starting to take on a roasted nut/toasted bread complexity. Active mousse, if a bit coarse.

"Regular" flight:

NV Perrier Jouet Grand Brut. There were two of these present this evening; one with the older label and one with the newer gold label with flowers in the background. We opened the older one. A quintessential toasting Champagne. Everyting was in harmony here -- a silky mousse, bright fruit, light baked bread notes. Exactly what you think of when you think "Champagne."

NV Georges Gardet Brut Speical. This wine is made from mostly pinot noir and pinot muenier. A few people were using the word "butterscotch" in describing this wine, and it did have a honeyed quality -- but in a not-sweet, non-cloying way. At first, it seemed to want to overpower with all if its dark fruit, but with a little air time, is settled in nicely. A good mushroom tart wine.

NV Bollinger Brut Special Cuvee. Too much. Too much bubbles. Too much toast. Too much in-your-face fruit. Too much peach pit on the finish. Too much. Too much. Too much. But not too much if you like that sort of thing (he said with a wink).

NV Michel Arnould La Grand Cuvee Brut, Grand Cru. All 1997 fruit, though not labeled as such. The most complex of the NV wines in this flight. Tremendous acidity. Velvety mousse. An almost earthy-mushroom like quality to the flavor profile. A lot going happening on different levels. The only RM wine in the flight, and it sort of showed that individualistic character.

1996 Veuve Clicquot Brut Reserve. A very nice wine that was also opened a bit before its time. Chalky texture and minerality. Powerful and long-lasting mousse. This wine had many of us bemoaning the demise of VC's yellow label along the lines of "How can they make a nice wine like this and then also make that swill?"

Mini 1985 flight (there were two other 1985s not included):

1985 Diebolt-Vallois Brut Blanc de Blanc, Grand Cru. Recently disgorged and released by D-V along with their 1976 and 1979. This had the toast and ever-so-slight oxidative quality of an older wine, but in a way that added rich complexity. Still a mineral-driven wine, like any other Diebolt-Vallois I've ever had. Impressive.

1985 Heidsieck Monopole Cuvee Diamant Bleu Brut. Two years ago, this wine seemed tired and preparing for the grave. This bottle, however, was anything but, and had at least five more years left in it. This also had a tiny bit of honey on the nose and in the mouth. But plenty of citrus and rocky mineral to go along with it.

Rose flight:

NV Haton Brut Rose. Cherries and spice. Didn't offer anything more complex or complicating than that. But it was a solid fruit/spice bubbly that would not only be romantic in the picnic basket, but would also go with every food item in there.

NV Charles Ellner Brut Rose. This is a dinner wine; don't waste it as an aperitif. Rich citrus, spice, brioche, mushrooms. Another wine with a slight honey component in a good way. There's a lot going on here and going on with full force. And I absolutely love that brioche quality in the wine.

NV Vilmart Cuvee Rubis Brut Rose. Heralded as one of the best, most consistent NV rose sparklers on the market. A bit more fruit-forward that the Ellenr, which is no small feat. A tiny bit of oak is thrown in for depth that you may or may not feel is needed depending on how you feel about oak. This wine goes down very easy with its soft mousse that doesn't get in the way of the core wine.

1985 Veuve Clicquot Rose Reserve. Incredible. Full of life. Red fruits, citrus, a hint of smoke, some earthiness. Long-lasting mousse. A killer-thriller of a wine.

1985 Rene Collard Brut Rose. 100% pinot muenier. Loaded with character. Mushrooms, spice, earthy, profound. It's a wine that forces you to take a second sip to answer the question "what did I just drink?" It was the most mutated wine of the flight, if not the evening. But some mutations are what lead to advancements in evolution.

Again, these were impressions more than sit-down-with-a-notebook notes. So if I got a little carried away with some of the language, it's merely impressionsitic, not desconstructive description, right?

[kazuo]

Thanks for the beautiful notes. The Ellner and Vilmart Rubis are great wines, but very difficult to find in Tokyo. How do you think Billecart Salmon NV Rose compares with the roses you listed?

[Brad Ballinger]

Thanks for the beautiful notes.  The Ellner and Vilmart Rubis are great wines, but very difficult to find in Tokyo.  How do you think Billecart Salmon NV Rose compares with the roses you listed?

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I think the Billecart is more "elegant" and less "meaty" than the other two you've mentioned. It is certainly lighter in color than either.