Jewel Bako

[LPShanet]

Not sure if you saw a previous response of mine to your quandary on another string, but I suspect the best course for your next such outing would be to go to 15 East.  Masato Shimizu, the chef who made Jewel Bako's initial reputation a while back (which it still rides on, despite the now lower level) is now there and doing a very nice job in quite a nice space.  While he does occasionally "dress up" some of the pieces he serves, it is always in a more subtle and complementary way than what you described in the above meal, and he really lets the ingredients shine, as a good sushi chef should.

Thanks, LPSHanet.

Just one clarification - Masato Shimizu - not to be confused with another Shimizu who is the chef at "Shimizu" sushi, right?

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Different guy, although Shimizu the restaurant is worth a visit, too.

[raji]

Different guy, although Shimizu the restaurant is worth a visit, too.

Yah, as I ended up emailing UE, as a sushi purist in his position(securing a last-minute sushi-bar counter seating), I might have taken the occasion to check out Shimizu, still very popular with Japanese tourists, or perhaps Esashi in the east village.

I was living in Japan during Jewel Bako's heyday and surmised to skip it since Masato Shimizu's departure/their renovation... every indication is that that was the correct call, and I'd expect a French tire company to hear about it 5 years late...

[LPShanet]

Different guy, although Shimizu the restaurant is worth a visit, too.

Yah, as I ended up emailing UE, as a sushi purist in his position(securing a last-minute sushi-bar counter seating), I might have taken the occasion to check out Shimizu, still very popular with Japanese tourists, or perhaps Esashi in the east village.

I was living in Japan during Jewel Bako's heyday and surmised to skip it since Masato Shimizu's departure/their renovation... every indication is that that was the correct call, and I'd expect a French tire company to hear about it 5 years late...

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Speaking of Shimizu the restaurant, I tried to pop in last night, and I thought it was worth mentioning in this chain that they close by 10pm, even on Friday nights, so if you go, make sure not to make it too late. I was shut out.

[raji]

Are you sure they just weren't booked up? Because I'm pretty sure they are open until 11pm Mon-Sat.

Also worth mentioning is that they have their own entrance now, so pretty much separate from the hotel.. so they've upped their game. And I seriously doubt Shimizu-san would have been the type to have inspired a vendetta by the DoH.

[jg488]

What happened to Jewel Bako? It was one of my absolute favorites from about 1999 to 2003. Then it somehow went downhill, but I'm not sure why. Was it the expansion? The change in chef? Did the owners extend their empire too far?

I'd love to read your thoughts on the reasons behind JB's decline. This also raises an interesting general question about why and how great restaurants lose their edge.

JR

[raji]

AFAIK it was only good because of it's sushi chef Masato Shimizu, now at 15 East, who left a few years ago. At the same time as his departure, they also supposedly suffered because of their expansion. Based on what I've seen in Japan, the only way a sushi bar can be good and larger than very small is if they have several veteran sushi chefs working in complete harmony, precision and speed.

But don't ask me, I never used to go there. When it was good, I still did not consider any downtown sushiya as good as those I would patronize in Midtown such as Sushihatsu, Sushiden and at that time, Sushi Yasuda was still largely under the radar...

[LPShanet]

Are you sure they just weren't booked up? Because I'm pretty sure they are open until 11pm Mon-Sat.

Also worth mentioning is that they have their own entrance now, so pretty much separate from the hotel.. so they've upped their game. And I seriously doubt Shimizu-san would have been the type to have inspired a vendetta by the DoH.

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I know this is off-topic now, but to answer your question, Raji, it wasn't that they were booked up. I walked by in person, and there were empty tables. There were still diners inside finishing, but they were already cleaning up the sushi bar. I'm pretty sure it said that they closed at 10 right on the hours posted on the door, and it was locked.

[LPShanet]

What happened to Jewel Bako?  It was one of my absolute favorites from about 1999 to 2003.  Then it somehow went downhill, but I'm not sure why.  Was it the expansion?  The change in chef?  Did the owners extend their empire too far?

I'd love to read your thoughts on the reasons behind JB's decline.  This also raises an interesting general question about why and how great restaurants lose their edge.

JR

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In this case, it was definitely the loss of the chef, as Raji and I have mentioned. At a sushi bar, the itamae makes all the difference. It is his fastidiousness that makes the place special, from fish selection to presentation. The departure of Masato Shimizu, and his replacement with someone not of his caliber is all the reason needed for it to decline.

[JWangSDC]

I've been a sushi-phile for years now and I just wanted to chime in.

I've known Masato for 4 years now and his sushi is my absolute favorite. I consider Hatsuhana, Shimizu, Kuruma Zushi and 15 East all to serve the same type of sushi and I think anyone who likes one of them will like all three. (With the exception Hatsuhana, which I feel trails the other two).

I have to admit Kuruma has the most consistently high quality fish, but 15 East is right there as well. The key to all these places is to sit with the main chef and have him serve you. Sitting at a table is a completely different experience. Sushi has to be served directly from the Chef's hand to yours and in my experience, no one has been better than Masato Shimizu at that. Hope you guys don't steal my seat @ the bar.

[raji]

I was under the impression that 15 East served more nouveau-style sushi (sauces, foams, exotic fruits or vegetables) vs. the other three...? Am I mistaken?

I agree that Masato deserves to be in the upper echelon, and now has a venue he can better control the entire production line.

While sitting in front of the head chef will get you the best craftsmanship, show, and the salesmanship to go with it, it shouldn't really get you better fish. It's not like any decent sushiya is going to stick the chef they're hazing with older shrimp.

I've discussed the table issue in other threads; without a doubt, sitting at the counter and ordering omakase/a la carte/piece-by-piece is getting the authentic (and most expensive) treatment. Go to Japan and you'll see that most sushi bars traditionally don't have or simply don't have room for any tables.

At the same time, I feel like sushi bars lose a lot of business, and customers lose a lot of potential good eating, because people feel like they HAVE to book at the counter. Unless you are determined to do the full omakase experience, as long as the service at the restaurant is good and you know to order in several rounds and whatnot, most people will not see an appreciable difference...

[JWangSDC]

I was under the impression that 15 East served more nouveau-style sushi (sauces, foams, exotic fruits or vegetables) vs. the other three...? Am I mistaken?

I agree that Masato deserves to be in the upper echelon, and now has a venue he can better control the entire production line.

While sitting in front of the head chef will get you the best craftsmanship, show, and the salesmanship to go with it, it shouldn't really get you better fish. It's not like any decent sushiya is going to stick the chef they're hazing with older shrimp.

I've discussed the table issue in other threads; without a doubt, sitting at the counter and ordering omakase/a la carte/piece-by-piece is getting the authentic (and most expensive) treatment. Go to Japan and you'll see that most sushi bars traditionally don't have or simply don't have room for any tables.

At the same time, I feel like sushi bars lose a lot of business, and customers lose a lot of potential good eating, because people feel like they HAVE to book at the counter. Unless you are determined to do the full omakase experience, as long as the service at the restaurant is good and you know to order in several rounds and whatnot, most people will not see an appreciable difference...

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I agree completely with the idea that sitting at a table and ordering in rounds is a good experience, but for me, I'm not willing to go to a sushi restaurant with more than 4 people. For me, I eat at Le Bernardin and Babbo when I'm out with a larger group. I just love the sushi bar.

15 East is just as traditional as the other places I mentioned. I'd say Kuruma and Hatsuhana might be SLIGHTLY more traditional, but certainly Shimizu restaurant is identical. Either way I group 15 east as traditional sushi. The chef will add scallion, a TINY bit of plum sauce, soy sauce, or sear the fish; but that's really it. There's no balsamic vinegar, sauteed tomatoes and onion cream cheese, korean bbq toro, spicy mayonaise...none of that stuff. And are there really any traditional places that dont' use scallion, a torch and soy sauce?

The thing about sushi isn't how fresh the fish is, it's how well it's prepared. If you have unfresh fish, the sushi is not gonna be good regardless. The best you can do is soy sauce it up and sear it, but it's still gonna be relatively poor. When you go to a really good sushi restaurant, fresh fish is not a rating measurement...it is a given. The cut you receive when Masato serves is nicer than if you are sitting at a table and I think the 5-15 min period of time where the fish just oxidizes waiting to reach your table is crucial. I've had dinners at both Jewel Bako and Shimizu at a table and I couldnt' thoroughly enjoy my meal, it was only when being served directly by a chef that I received sushi at its proper temperature and moistness. At hatsuhana, the fish can be downright disgusting if you sit at a table. I suspect it may even be precut and if not, it sits and waits up to 30 minutes before being served to you if it is extremely busy.

Edited November 27, 2007 by JWangSDC (log)

[raji]

Mostly agreed. Calling 15 East more "nouveau" was moreover based on their extensive kitchen menu which receives more accolades than their traditional sushi. But it is possible to enjoy a very traditional omakase sushi dinner at any reputable sushi bar with a chef that was traditionally trained in Japan.

Even 4 people at a sushi bar is rough unless you have the corner. But the reason I mentioned the service of the restaurant is that a good waitstaff will swiftly deliver your platter, and a proper sushi chef will also be able to make the whole thing rather quickly. So it's a service issue, and if they have bad service, complain and/or don't go back. But with good service, and as long as you don't order $100 of sushi at once, a table order can be totally fine. I can't believe anything would wait for 30 mins at Hatsuhana, that's shocking to me as it is a reputable sushi bar within the Japanese community.

As for fresh fish, I too think it's a nonargument, BUT realize the bubble we are in. Not only are we in NYC with it's world-leading Japanese expat population, but we actually know where to go. How many NYers do you meet who proclaim their favorite sushiya is a place that you and I would see as a knockoff immediately? At those places, and outside NYC, freshness IS still an issue, sadly.

[ulterior epicure]

At those places, and outside NYC, freshness IS still an issue, sadly.

*Waving arms frantically in Kansas City, Missouri*

And, there you have it... you folks are truly lucky. Don't take it for granted for a second.

[JWangSDC]

As for fresh fish, I too think it's a nonargument, BUT realize the bubble we are in. Not only are we in NYC with it's world-leading Japanese expat population, but we actually know where to go. How many NYers do you meet who proclaim their favorite sushiya is a place that you and I would see as a knockoff immediately? At those places, and outside NYC, freshness IS still an issue, sadly.

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That last paragraph is so spot on. Well put!

And I agree, it is about service. Unfortunately I don't think there is anywhere that can consistently provide that type of table service, especially not on weekends.

[raji]

That last paragraph is so spot on. Well put!

Thanks.

Sounds like you had some bad luck at Hatsuhana, but, I've seen the diligent waitresses and waiters at Shimizu, Ushiwakamaru (coming back soon!), Seki, and Yasuda express-deliver the sushi. Esashi, most likely because there's never more than a dozen people in there. But those places are so small that the sushi chefs are hyper-aware of the counter AND the tables as everything is so close. Weekends, you may be right, but I think a lot of us avoid eating out altogether, as you could accuse most restaurants of bad customers AND bad service!