Jewel Bako

[peter_nyc]

I had the pleasure of dining at Jewel Bako this past Friday evening. My companion and I sat at the sushi bar and ordered the $85 omakase with sake pairings. The meal, which lasted about 3 hours, including the following:

amuse: mackerel poached in sake, miso, milk

sato no hamane (daiginjo)

edamame

cold appetizer plate (4 items)

1. Toro tartare with creamy avocado, oscetra caviar

2. White fish poached in sake (nanbamzuki), rice vinegar

3. Tofu skin mono miso

4. Sword tip squid

(I missed the name of the sake on this course)

kyoto-style pike eel soup

clear yuzu broth, okra, carrots

(I missed the name of the sake on this one as well)

sashimi course (served with freshly grated wasabi)

-3 types of yellowtail (hamachi, kanpachi, golden stripe)

-amberjack

-red snapper

-striped bass

-copper salmon (alaska)

-japanese black bass

-sweet shrimp (maine)

-bluefin otoro

oninoshita burui

3 types of mushrooms steamed in sake and yuzu

giant tiger prawns (my companion)

yashinorino sake (junmai koshi)

sushi course (served with freshly grated wasabi)

-seared bluefin tuna marinated in sake for 4 hours

-striped jack

-king salmon (new zealand)

-chopped jack mackerel with giner, miso, sesame seeds, shiso leaf

-kizu (japanese whiting)

-sand bore (tokyo) with hardboiled egg yolk

-shinko (baby sardines)

-japanese scallop with yuzu zest, sea salt, lemon

-sword tip squid (japan) with torched uni (california) on top

-wild tuna otoro (spain)

-seared bluefin otoro sushi

-anago with sea salt

-anago with soy sauce

chinon, 2001 (pinot noir)

clos des papes, 2003 (chateauneuf-du-pape, blanc)

rex hill, 2001 (pinot noir from oregon)

coconut lychee sorbet with preserved plum

chocolate mousse with shiso leaf

kyoto-style tea cookie with warm plum wine from yamaguchi

green tea made with toasted brown rice

All in all, it was a fabulous dinner. The sushi chefs were highly skillful and were extremely receptive to our feedback. Compared to Yasuda, the experience here was much more relaxed. The fish itself was great all around but the eel was definitely not as strong as Yasuda-san's. This didn't come as a suprise, however, as I was delievered my anago with the caveat that Yasuda "was the master" of all things eel. I think they're right. But the baby sardines and scallop were unbelievable, second to none. How could I possibly have been disappointed by sushi chefs who sip their pinot noir from Riedel stemware between orders?

[StInGeR]

I had the pleasure of dining at Jewel Bako this past Friday evening. My companion and I sat at the sushi bar and ordered the $85 omakase with sake pairings. The meal, which lasted about 3 hours, including the following:

amuse: mackerel poached in sake, miso, milk

sato no hamane (daiginjo)

edamame

cold appetizer plate (4 items)

1. Toro tartare with creamy avocado, oscetra caviar

2. White fish poached in sake (nanbamzuki), rice vinegar

3. Tofu skin mono miso

4. Sword tip squid

(I missed the name of the sake on this course)

kyoto-style pike eel soup

clear yuzu broth, okra, carrots

(I missed the name of the sake on this one as well)

sashimi course (served with freshly grated wasabi)

-3 types of yellowtail (hamachi, kanpachi, golden stripe)

-amberjack

-red snapper

-striped bass

-copper salmon (alaska)

-japanese black bass

-sweet shrimp (maine)

-bluefin otoro

oninoshita burui

3 types of mushrooms steamed in sake and yuzu

giant tiger prawns (my companion)

yashinorino sake (junmai koshi)

sushi course (served with freshly grated wasabi)

-seared bluefin tuna marinated in sake for 4 hours

-striped jack

-king salmon (new zealand)

-chopped jack mackerel with giner, miso, sesame seeds, shiso leaf

-kizu (japanese whiting)

-sand bore (tokyo) with hardboiled egg yolk

-shinko (baby sardines)

-japanese scallop with yuzu zest, sea salt, lemon

-sword tip squid (japan) with torched uni (california) on top

-wild tuna otoro (spain)

-seared bluefin otoro sushi

-anago with sea salt

-anago with soy sauce

chinon, 2001 (pinot noir)

clos des papes, 2003 (chateauneuf-du-pape, blanc)

rex hill, 2001 (pinot noir from oregon)

coconut lychee sorbet with preserved plum

chocolate mousse with shiso leaf

kyoto-style tea cookie with warm plum wine from yamaguchi

green tea made with toasted brown rice

All in all, it was a fabulous dinner. The sushi chefs were highly skillful and were extremely receptive to our feedback. Compared to Yasuda, the experience here was much more relaxed. The fish itself was great all around but the eel was definitely not as strong as Yasuda-san's. This didn't come as a suprise, however, as I was delievered my anago with the caveat that Yasuda "was the master" of all things eel. I think they're right. But the baby sardines and scallop were unbelievable, second to none. How could I possibly have been disappointed by sushi chefs who sip their pinot noir from Riedel stemware between orders?

See I told you not to pay attention to the sushi-nyc site

[bpearis]

I had the pleasure of dining at Jewel Bako this past Friday evening. My companion and I sat at the sushi bar and ordered the $85 omakase with sake pairings.

How much did the sake pairings end up costing? The time I had it done it was about $35 pp. I'm going on Wednesday and just want to get some sort of estimate to see if mine was the average.

[peter_nyc]

the sake pairings were $59 pp, a little more than expected...

[bpearis]

the sake pairings were $59 pp, a little more than expected...

You got wine as well, though. Maybe that's why.

[princessre]

We had a generally great dinner at JB last night. To add a female voice to this, the food was way too much for me and actually took away from what was initially an ethereal experience.

We had many of the dishes described, so I won't belabor the $85 omikase (not to mention that the cherry blossom sake somewhat compromised my memory), but if I were to go back, I would attempt to order the following a la carte:

1. All 4 of the amuse bouches which were outstanding on their own and heavenly in combination. Here in order of favorites: monkfish pate with roe and yuzu on top (INCREDIBLE); poached octopus (BEST octopus I've had outside of Positano); fried tilefish marinated in vinegar (oden tasting, but much better); and toro/avocado (GREAT but lackluster compared to the other threre.)

We ordered the salad which was overdressed, and for me the greens were too bitter (personal taste) Would not repeat.

2. The fishball soup- good, but kind of a letdown after the rave reviews-- probably because this is a taste I've had alot in Asia in general. The broth was really subtle, though. So this is maybe a repeat.

3. Sashimi- in order of favorites again:

GRUNT FISH- never had this even in Japan, but this was STUPENDOUS. A really tender and flavorful fish (almost smoky in flavor). It is amazing that such a relatively "lean" fish could be so flavorful.

TORO- pretty great- the best I've had outside Japan

AMBERJACK- this was really great, light tasting but creamy.

SALMON- pretty good not spectacular.

The 2 snappers and live shrimp did not do it for me, so I would have skipped them.

4. Tiger Prawn was amazing (the smell is enough to drive me over the edge.). The mushroom was pretty good (though this is similar to many enoki renditions at yakitori places.)

At this point, I am stuffed and really drunk. Now the "entree" arrives. I'm about to explode. It feels like there is an aquarium inside my tummy. Because of this, I manage to have only half of my plate.

5. TAMAGO- Damn, this was so good, DELICATE, perfectly and subtly sweetened

6. ANAGO- Damn, this was so good, DELICATE, perfectly and subtly sweetened.

7. CHOPPED JACK MACKEREL- really great.

8. TORO is spectacular

SEARED TORO and 3 pcs spicy salmon maki are good but pale in comparison.

At this point, I finally give up on my dinner and give away the fluke, squid, sweet shrimp, scallop (esp. since mine did not arrive with torched uni.)

9. PLUM WINE- as a fan of plum wine, this was ONE DAMN FINE PLUM WINE.

10. Dessert and green tea were really amazing combo. Chocolate mousse cake. Yum.

Overall, a great culinary adventure. I would go back in a heartbeat if I could order the above numbered dishes a la carte.

Edited November 21, 2004 by princessre (log)

[peter_nyc]

At this point, I finally give up on my dinner and give away the fluke, squid, sweet shrimp, scallop

←

Yep, I think my heart just stopped beating...

[princessre]

At this point, I finally give up on my dinner and give away the fluke, squid, sweet shrimp, scallop

←

Yep, I think my heart just stopped beating...

←

It felt sacrilegious to me as well. But honestly, I skipped them to avoid returning all of the food. My major handicap is being 95 lb.

Edited November 22, 2004 by princessre (log)

[sakana]

Can one get a full Jewel Bako experience sitting at the sushi bar for lunch? I prefer to eat large meals in the middle of the day, but don't want to limit my experience-- what would those of you who have been recommend?

[bpearis]

Can one get a full Jewel Bako experience sitting at the sushi bar for lunch?  I prefer to eat large meals in the middle of the day, but don't want to limit my experience-- what would those of you who have been recommend?

←

Jewel Bako is only open for dinner.

[sakana]

Can one get a full Jewel Bako experience sitting at the sushi bar for lunch?  I prefer to eat large meals in the middle of the day, but don't want to limit my experience-- what would those of you who have been recommend?

←

Jewel Bako is only open for dinner.

←

Ah-- that would be a no, then.

Thanks, bpearis.

[bpearis]

From tetsujustin's Jewel Bako report from the Eating in New York thread...

It's also worth noting that JB was in its previous life a video store, which helps explain the cramped quarters in the rear.

The next time you go, I recommend that you request to be seated against the wall and not on the side where you were seated on your previous visit.  (As you walk into that area, ask to be seated to your right.)

Soba

←

As of this week, that wall doesn't exist. JB is expanding into the space next door. While the dining room will remain untouched, the wall in the sushi bar room is coming down and the sushi bar willl be expanded (though not sure exactly how much). The other side of the restaurant will be Jewel Bako Robata, the Japanese grill thing, though you can get any of the food in either side of the restaurant. The omakase will incorporate robata items into it as well.

This is what Shimizu-san and Jack Lamb told me when I was there last week, at least. They hoped to open January 24. It was supposed to open a month ago, and did for one day, but the grills weren't getting hot enough and Jack decided to close it down until they could do it right.

My meal was almost identical to tetsujustin's. I was a bit disappointed, to be honest. The sushi was all amazing as usual, but felt some of the apps lacked the magic that they usually have. Plus, with trying to get the other side open, Jack was absent for most of the meal and his flowery descriptions of the food (and the sake and wine, if you do the pairings).

That said, I had barracuda (blowtorched with sea salt and lemon) for the first time and that was awesome. Jewel Bako has been my favorite NYC splurge restaurant for three years and have no doubt will remain so.

Jewel Bako also seems to have raised the price of omakase from $85 to $100 which stung a little when I've had such perfect dining experiences there in the past. I chalk it up to the kitchen being compromised somewhat from the renovations. I have to imagine once it gets up and running and serving American kobe and other delicacies, the will be gunning for a lead review in the Times, which is where a restaurant of this caliber belongs (not in the $25-and-under column which it was initially placed). But I worry that some of the charm of the original tiny space will be lost. We shall see.

[Bond Girl]

Even with its one star Michelin rating, the place has really gone down hill. I had dinner at Jewel Bako last night and the whole dinner was beyond bad.

We were served a tiny amuse that didn't tasted like anything except radishes. The miso soup uses really good dark miso but the soup base lacked seasoning, so the whole thing just tasted bland. My date and I shared a green salad, which was not extraordinary by any standards, but that was the best part of a bad meal. The nigiri sushi we ordered took more than half an hour to arrive. Our waitress apologized that the sushi bar was very busy, but the place was half empty. My date and I wondered what happens when the place is filled up. What arrived at our table half an hour later were two cheesy looking trays that looked like it came out of the average east village sushi bar...actually, you'd probably get better sushi at the average east village sushi bar for a fraction of the price. The cut of the fish was so big that it covered the rice completely. In retrospect that was probably intentional because the rice was tasteless, cold and clumpy. Some of our fish tasted like freezer burn, others tasted so fishy that I was sure that it was stale....but hang on, wasn't there a rumour that sushi bars usually have the freshest fish on Fridays? I guess, the rule didn't apply to the newly expanded Jewel Bako. My date, who has been working with sashimi quality fish for more than 15 years, flicked a piece of fish off the ball of rice and said: "Hey, I never seen this in a yellow tail." I peered over at his tray inquiringly. "See this," he pointed at a circular indentation on the underside of the piece of yellow tail. "That tells me this fish has fungus. You usually see it in Tunas, but they've got this in their yellow tail. You shouldn't eat that." I decided to take his advice. Despite the expanded space, Jewel bako continues to offer one dessert. We decided to skip it and get tea instead. Well, that was luke warm too. Really.

Like a typical bourgeois that has hit it rich, Jack lamb flitted about the room, occasionally thumbing his copy of the Michelin guide.

For those thinking of visiting this place, save your money. If you want mediocre sushi, there are plenty of places in the neighborhood that will give it to you for a lot less than $135.

[peter_nyc]

Even with its one star Michelin rating, the place has really gone down hill.  I had dinner at Jewel Bako last night and the whole dinner was beyond bad. 

←

Yeah, it's quite sad. I had the most incredible meal there about a year ago, and when I returned toward the end of this summer it wasn't the same. Not mindblowing, not amazing, not great, just OK. I also missed that small sushi bar, I thought it had such charm.

[bpearis]

Even with its one star Michelin rating, the place has really gone down hill.  I had dinner at Jewel Bako last night and the whole dinner was beyond bad. 

←

While I will say it's a completely different experience at the sushi bar and you shouldn't sit at the tables, I agree that the place is not the same since the expansion.

[jg488]

Has anyone been to Jewel Bako recently? Like bpearis, I have been enjoying JB as my favorite splurge in New York for years, but I'm worried that it won't be the same since the expansion. I'd appreciate any updates.

[gaf]

Sushi Virgins New York City Entry #85 Jewel Bako

My younger son and his friend are what we in the reviewing biz call "sushi virgins." When I learned that they would be spending spring break with me in New York, my initial question targeted dining. I didn't have profuse hopes for the response. As my older son once announced, his sib would make a great vegetarian if only he ate vegetables. He seemed to live on air, chips, Sprite, macaroni, and the odd taco. So I was startled when the response was "Japanese." Adolescents change rapidly in college, even if not all changes are comforting to parents. But never should one stare a gift squid in the mouth. After all, my son had been treasurer of his college's anime club: that should count for something!

For dinner I selected Jewel Bako. Choosing JB in the heart of the East Village was designed to demonstrate that, despite my pate (not paté), I could register on the hip-o-meter. And Jewel Bako is known as both refined and straight-forward. It is more traditional than new age sushitoriums such as Sushi of Gari, and at a price that if things went south would avoid intense pain. As their sushi is flown in from Tsukiji, I knew that our sushi would be hyper-fresh. What I had not realized that neither had ever tasted sushi, and while they were game for the experience, perhaps shabu-shabu or tempura was what had been imagined.

Jewel Bako (or Jewel Box) is exquisite. On entering one of the front rooms with their sleek vaults, one feels one has entered a piscatory cathedral, a synagogue of the seas. The arched ceiling creates a space as inspiring as any small restaurant of my acquaintance. The slate and river stones gives JB a natural serenity. Jewel Bako is not a space to canoodle, but it is precisely the place to repose while thinking wistfully and tranquilly of the object of a canoodle. And as of this week Jewel Bako has a sib, Degustation, a newly opened tapas bar, the work of the same designer and owner. They are cross-continental "Siamese" twins, conjoined at the front hall.

In our dinner, some compromises were essential. We avoided the counter. It is not only watching sausage being made that can be disconcerting. Such an education is for the next visit. With the exception of sturdy, fungal miso soup with chives and a dessert plate, we ordered only sushi. The rice served as a familiar comfort. I ordered the ten piece Chef's Omakase Sushi menu, my son's friend the eight piece selection of sushi served with a sushi roll. I ordered otoro, hamachi, salmon, and snow crab for my son. Sushi with training wheels.

We began with an amuse of eel surrounded by a bit of omelet. I was pleasantly surprised by the crunchy texture of the bite, and happy that my guests enjoyed the taste. (Their chopstick skills indicated that their experiences of Chinese food are more extensive than their knowledge of sushi).

I was served raw scallop, sea urchin, sea eel, shrimp, jack mackerel, otoro, king salmon, hamachi, fluke, and needlefish. As I could tell their preferences (salmon, for instance), some trading ensued. Most pieces were served straight-on with perhaps a band of jalapeno or a dot of hot sauce or a few sesame seeds. But most were rice, a dab of wasabi, and fish. No dipsy-doodles. Although the sushi, even the omakase, was not challenging, it was pure and fine. I particularly enjoyed the otoro (of course), the sea urchin, and the fluke. Jewel Bako serves sushi that is estimable and reputable.

The trio of desserts, in contrast, were barely passable. The chocolate mousse cake was distressingly slimy, the green tea cheesecake was dry and dense; only the lychee sorbet proved satisfying.

Although I wish that I can declare responsibility for the enslavement of two sushi addicts, such a claim must await further developments. My son ate his pieces, and two others, and decided that six pieces made a comfortable meal. His friend started strong, but during the meal looked wan, not finishing her pieces. But the time we reached my building, her distress was evident, and much of the chef's handiwork reappeared at an awkward moment. She rests as I blog.

For some, sushi is slimy and slippery and slick and unthinkable. But there must be a first time for all pleasures. As we recall.

Jewel Bako

239 East 5th Street (at Second Avenue)

Manhattan (East Village)

212-979-1012

My Webpage: Vealcheeks

[SobaAddict70]

Next time, please DO sit at the counter and get a sake tasting in addition to the omakase. You'll be glad you did.

[oakapple]

Today's New York Times review is a duo: Degustation (**) and Jewel Bako (*):

But while Degustation is carving a distinctive niche, Jewel Bako belongs to a genre more familiar and competitive now than it was in 2001, when the restaurant opened . . . . on recent visits there were too few instances of extreme sushi bliss, even during a $95 omakase menu, even from such usual standouts as o-toro, which had unpleasantly ropy veins, and uni, which was unusually grainy. Among several disappointing appetizers, a wedge of salmon and a scallop were seriously overcooked . . . . tables are tightly packed, the lighting isn't particularly soothing and service can be sluggish, making the prices, lower than at other serious sushi temples, seem less a bargain than a fair enough deal.

As far as I can tell, Jewel Bako has never before had a rated review in the Times (although it has been open since 2001), but Bruni's single star strongly suggests that, in his opinion, the restaurant's best days are behind it. Edited June 21, 2006 by oakapple (log)

[bronihk]

The one time i went to jewel bako was about 3 and half years ago. i loved and and have been raving to my SO for ages but never actually gotten the chance to take him. We're finally going tonight so i decieded to check the boards, see what people were thinking as of late. Looks like there has been little to say and now i see the bruni review and am a bit worried. do people agree with his recent assesment? really dont want my good memory of the place to be ruined!

Edited August 31, 2006 by bronihk (log)

[bpearis]

The one time i went to jewel bako was about 3 and half years ago.  i loved and and have been raving to my SO for ages but never actually gotten the chance to take him. We're finally going tonight so i decieded to check the boards, see what people were thinking as of late.  Looks like there has been little to say and now i see the bruni review and am a bit worried.  do people agree with his recent assesment?  really dont want my good memory of the place to be ruined!

←

As of about two weeks ago, the Lambs shut down JB Makimono and migrated the chefs over to the regular Jewel Bako. It has now basically turned into Makimono -- no reservations, lower price point, more of a focus on rolls, good but not as great like it used to be fish. JB's sushi chef of the last three years, Masato-san, has left and I haven't been able to find out if he's gone somewhere else.

Hope your evening wasn't too disappointing.

I've picked a new favorite place since JB's downgrading... Ushi Wakamaru on Houston.

[ulterior epicure]

This thread has been asleep for a year now, and I think I understand why.

As some of you might have read, a few weeks ago, I had planned on having a fabulous omakase with Hideo-san at Ushiwakamaru. Two days before my reservation, the restaurant called to inform me that the Dept. of Health had closed it down and would not plan on re-opening for the foreseeable future. (Click here for the Ushiwaka maru thread to read more).

Craving sushi, I considered the following: Karumazushi, Sushi Seki, and Jewel Bako. I have been to Sushi Yasuda twice before; I've had such stellar experiences there that it was hard for me to resist another visit. However, I had promised myself to try a new sushi place.

Two days advanced notice is not a lot of time to secure a spot at a sought after sushi bar. Jewel Bako had an opening, and I took it. I actually wanted to visit this restaurant, despite the negative reviews posted here and elsewhere. I had heard good things about chef Yoshi-san from others and decided to give it a shot.

You can see all the pictures from my dinner and read the commentary, if you wish on my flickr account.

Here's a high-level summary:

Atmosphere: The space is incredibly claustrophobic. We sat at the bar in front of Yoshi-san. I have NO CLUE how the people in the two matchbox-sized dining rooms could stand it in there. It's dark, extremely tight ("packed liked sardines" personified) - when the dining room was full, it seemed impossible to thread through the middle aisle.

At the bar, there was so little space behind the diners (between the diner's back and the wall) that I felt shoved up against the bar for fear of pinning one of the many servers who shuttled back and forth constantly to the wall. There was a lot of commotion and it felt frenetic the entire evening. While I'd like to say that I block out all of this during my meal, neither the food nor other factors were able to captivate me more. I was constantly aware of, and a little edgy in, my surroundings.

Also, I don't exactly get how the name might remotely be appropriate. "Box," sure, but "Jewel?" It's unique, but not particularly a "gem."

Food: The sashimi platter (first "course") was strong. The fish selection was interesting and well assembled. There are two reasons why I particularly liked the sashimi: (1) the fish had been allowed to "age" for a proper amount of time - allowing the proteins to break down and the natural flavors to develop and intensify, and (2) for the most part, the sashimi pieces were served unadorned and simply on their own.

The nigiri (we had a progression of about 16 after the sashimi plate), overall, was disappointing.

(1) I'm a sushi purist, and Yoshi-san is one of what I call a "modernista sushi chef." Almost everything came with some kind of garnish or extraneous embellishment - be it yuzu paste, lime foam, or some butane torch treatment. There's nothing wrong with any of that, per se, if it works (there was one in particular - giant clam with a lime and salt garnish - that was actually better, I think with the garnish than without). But for the most part, the additions tended to mask/distract from the natural flavors/textures, etc. of the fish. The hotate (scallop) had citrus on it... which changed the surface texture and disarmed the one thing I love most about scallops - the natural briney sweetness.

(2) The rice here, in my book, is really substandard. I noticed that the rice crock was not covered, which probably explains why it was cold and dry. In fact on one of my early nigiri pieces (I think it was the second one), the rice stuck to the inside of my cheek in a wad if dry clay - I had use my tongue to get it loose. I don't make this statement to be sensationalistic - but it truly was a disappointing moment in the meal, one that set the tone for the rest of the pieces I tried that night. We never noticed him change the rice (or replenish from the back) through the night, and indeed, the rice got drier and drier throughout the meal. I will say, however, that one of my dining companions did like the rice, making a point of it after I had shared my thoughts.

(3) The fish here is served just below my ideal nigiri temperature level. While the sashimi platter was fine (everything was room temperature - I think this is because they plated a number of sashimi courses at once and so the plates had been sitting out a little longer), most of the nigiri cuts we got were almost straight from the chill cases. Not only did this affect the texture of the fish (making the flesh stiffer), but it also numbed the flavor (or rather, it numbed my mouth to the flavor). The fact that the sushi rice was room temperature (which in my book, is "cold"), didn't help.

(4) Torching ranks high on showmanship, but, I'm not so sure it added much to my overall experiences. For instance, the butane was used on the uni - which did little except char the top. I had half expected it to intensify the natural sweetness of the roe, which it might have, but Yoshi-san paints a soy sauce-based glaze (I'm guessing there's mirin in the sauce) over the top and torches it a second time. The soy sauce-based glaze (not being particularly high in sugar) chars, leaving the top with a slightly burnt, bitter taste. Likewise, he torched the eel between two banana leaves. The eel meat had no contact with the flame. While the eel went gelatinously soft (a good thing), it became heavily perfumed with the scent of banana - which I found really distracting. Some may like that banana leaf flavor; I don't. I prefer my eel simply charred on a robata over bright hot binchotan. The only torch treatment I actually enjoyed was the barracuda nigiri - he scorched the scaled skin on the outside, which gave the skin a nice smoky flavor and interest texture (it wasn't quite crispy - more rubbery, but in a good way).

Service: Nothing particularly good or bad. We were serviced appropriately and courteously. Sushi-ya aren't really known for their service, in particularly, and Jewel Bako isn't really different in this regard. I will say that liquids were refilled to a touch and all other aspects of the staff, other than their frenetic shuttling about, was seamless. I really wasn't in want of anything.

One thing that I will note about courtesy: When my guests and I sat down at the bar, there was a high-roller and his family seated next to us (think: self sushi ego massager) who hogged a good deal of Yoshi-san's time. We probably didn't get any nigiri until at least an hour after we'd been seated. At the close of service, Yoshi-san apologized to my guests and me profusely for the delay and thanked us for our patience, which was nice to hear.

One star Michelin? I don't get that. A decent sushi-ya for the "nouveau"-minded, trend-set Nipponophile - sure - but of little interest to me.

Edited September 25, 2007 by ulterior epicure (log)

[LPShanet]

This thread has been asleep for a year now, and I think I understand why.

As some of you might have read, a few weeks ago, I had planned on having a fabulous omakase with Hideo-san at Ushiwakamaru.  Two days before my reservation, the restaurant called to inform me that the Dept. of Health had closed it down and would not plan on re-opening for the foreseeable future.  (Click here for the Ushiwaka maru thread to read more).

Craving sushi, I considered the following: Karumazushi, Sushi Seki, and Jewel Bako.  I have been to Sushi Yasuda twice before; I've had such stellar experiences there that it was hard for me to resist another visit. However, I had promised myself to try a new sushi place.

Two days advanced notice is not a lot of time to secure a spot at a sought after sushi bar.  Jewel Bako had an opening, and I took it.  I actually wanted to visit this restaurant, despite the negative reviews posted here and elsewhere.  I had heard good things about chef Yoshi-san from others and decided to give it a shot.

You can see all the pictures from my dinner and read the commentary, if you wish on my flickr account.

Here's a high-level summary:

Atmosphere: The space is incredibly claustrophobic. We sat at the bar in front of Yoshi-san.  I have NO CLUE how the people in the two matchbox-sized dining rooms could stand it in there.  It's dark, extremely tight ("packed liked sardines" personified) - when the dining room was full, it seemed impossible to thread through the middle aisle. 

At the bar, there was so little space behind the diners (between the diner's back and the wall) that I felt shoved up against the bar for fear of pinning one of the many servers who shuttled back and forth constantly to the wall.  There was a lot of commotion and it felt frenetic the entire evening.  While I'd like to say that I block out all of this during my meal, neither the food nor other factors were able to captivate me more.  I was constantly aware of, and a little edgy in, my surroundings.

Also, I don't exactly get how the name might remotely be appropriate.  "Box," sure, but "Jewel?" It's unique, but not particularly a "gem."

Food: The sashimi platter (first "course") was strong.  The fish selection was interesting and well assembled.  There are two reasons why I particularly liked the sashimi: (1) the fish had been allowed to "age" for a proper amount of time - allowing the proteins to break down and the natural flavors to develop and intensify, and (2) for the most part, the sashimi pieces were served unadorned and simply on their own.

The nigiri (we had a progression of about 16 after the sashimi plate), overall, was disappointing. 

(1) I'm a sushi purist, and Yoshi-san is one of what I call a "modernista sushi chef."  Almost everything came with some kind of garnish or extraneous embellishment - be it yuzu paste, lime foam, or some butane torch treatment.  There's nothing wrong with any of that, per se, if it works (there was one in particular - giant clam with a lime and salt garnish - that was actually better, I think with the garnish than without). But for the most part, the additions tended to mask/distract from the natural flavors/textures, etc. of the fish.  The hotate (scallop) had citrus on it... which changed the surface texture and disarmed the one thing I love most about scallops - the natural briney sweetness.

(2) The rice here, in my book, is really substandard.  I noticed that the rice crock was not covered, which probably explains why it was cold and dry.  In fact on one of my early nigiri pieces (I think it was the second one), the rice stuck to the inside of my cheek in a wad if dry clay - I had use my tongue to get it loose.  I don't make this statement to be sensationalistic - but it truly was a disappointing moment in the meal, one that set the tone for the rest of the pieces I tried that night.  We never noticed him change the rice (or replenish from the back) through the night, and indeed, the rice got drier and drier throughout the meal.  I will say, however, that one of my dining companions did like the rice, making a point of it after I had shared my thoughts. 

(3) The fish here is served just below my ideal nigiri temperature level.  While the sashimi platter was fine (everything was room temperature - I think this is because they plated a number of sashimi courses at once and so the plates had been sitting out a little longer), most of the nigiri cuts we got were almost straight from the chill cases.  Not only did this affect the texture of the fish (making the flesh stiffer), but it also numbed the flavor (or rather, it numbed my mouth to the flavor).  The fact that the sushi rice was room temperature (which in my book, is "cold"), didn't help.

(4) Torching ranks high on showmanship, but, I'm not so sure it added much to my overall experiences.  For instance, the butane was used on the uni - which did little except char the top.  I had half expected it to intensify the natural sweetness of the roe, which it might have, but Yoshi-san paints a soy sauce-based glaze (I'm guessing there's mirin in the sauce) over the top and torches it a second time.  The soy sauce-based glaze (not being particularly high in sugar) chars, leaving the top with a slightly burnt, bitter taste.  Likewise, he torched the eel between two banana leaves.  The eel meat had no contact with the flame. While the eel went gelatinously soft (a good thing), it became heavily perfumed with the scent of banana - which I found really distracting.  Some may like that banana leaf flavor; I don't.  I prefer my eel simply charred on a robata over bright hot binchotan. The only torch treatment I actually enjoyed was the barracuda nigiri - he scorched the scaled skin on the outside, which gave the skin a nice smoky flavor and interest texture (it wasn't quite crispy - more rubbery, but in a good way). 

Service: Nothing particularly good or bad.  We were serviced appropriately and courteously.  Sushi-ya aren't really known for their service, in particularly, and Jewel Bako isn't really different in this regard.  I will say that liquids were refilled to a touch and all other aspects of the staff, other than their frenetic shuttling about, was seamless. I really wasn't in want of anything.

One thing that I will note about courtesy: When my guests and I sat down at the bar, there was a high-roller and his family seated next to us (think: self sushi ego massager) who hogged a good deal of Yoshi-san's time.  We probably didn't get any nigiri until at least an hour after we'd been seated.  At the close of service, Yoshi-san apologized to my guests and me profusely for the delay and thanked us for our patience, which was nice to hear.

One star Michelin?  I don't get that.  A decent sushi-ya for the "nouveau"-minded, trend-set Nipponophile - sure - but of little interest to me.

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Not sure if you saw a previous response of mine to your quandary on another string, but I suspect the best course for your next such outing would be to go to 15 East. Masato Shimizu, the chef who made Jewel Bako's initial reputation a while back (which it still rides on, despite the now lower level) is now there and doing a very nice job in quite a nice space. While he does occasionally "dress up" some of the pieces he serves, it is always in a more subtle and complementary way than what you described in the above meal, and he really lets the ingredients shine, as a good sushi chef should.

[ulterior epicure]

Not sure if you saw a previous response of mine to your quandary on another string, but I suspect the best course for your next such outing would be to go to 15 East.  Masato Shimizu, the chef who made Jewel Bako's initial reputation a while back (which it still rides on, despite the now lower level) is now there and doing a very nice job in quite a nice space.  While he does occasionally "dress up" some of the pieces he serves, it is always in a more subtle and complementary way than what you described in the above meal, and he really lets the ingredients shine, as a good sushi chef should.

Thanks, LPSHanet.

Just one clarification - Masato Shimizu - not to be confused with another Shimizu who is the chef at "Shimizu" sushi, right?

[raji]

Different Shimizus...