Jewel Bako

[mikeyrad]

Has anyone been?  Is it as good as the hype?

[stefanyb]

Aaron and I have been.

I would say that we found it a little too precious.

The fish was high quality but the atmosphere lacked a certain Japanese-ness.  Also, when they recited the specials, one special was fresh wasabi at $12 a lump!  I have had fresh wasabi innumerable times and it was always at no extra charge.

The sake that we ordered was unfiltered (I have had it before) but it was almost chunky and had a slight fizzle on the tongue.  When I asked the waiter about this he said that that was how it should be. We doubted him but said nothing more.

All in all I would rather go to Sushi Yasuda.

[ajay]

So the restaurant is comporable in price to Sushi Yasuda?  Is it comporable in quality and diversity of selection--exetrnalities sucha s wasabie and sake nonwithstanding??

[stefanyb]

So the restaurant is comporable in price to Sushi Yasuda?  Is it comporable in quality and diversity of selection--exetrnalities sucha s wasabie and sake nonwithstanding??

In terms of the price, I think it is probably a little less than Yasuda because at Yasuda the cost is less controlable especially if you have Yasuda-san feed you.

I personally feel that JB is slightly less diverse in selection and not as high quality.  I must say,however, that it has quite a following so I'm sure there are dissenting opinions out there.

[cabrales]

I heard second-hand that one of the sushi chefs at Jewel Bako used to work at Bond Street.  Is there further input on Jewel Bako?  

[Charles Smith]

I'm a huge fan of Jewel Bako-  I can't compare it to Sushi Yasuda b/c I haven't been, but it's the best in the city that I've been to (Yasuda's the only "big" name I've missed)-

great diversity, excellent quality and extremely hospitable.  The other plus is that you can do an amazing $120 pp omakase or a $35 sushi platter and be very satisfied either way.  

The owners take great pride in everything about it- it's a real Mom and Pop- they even check the coats in their apartment across the street.  

Hope that's helpful.

Cheers,

Charles

[cabrales]

Charles -- When you have a chance, please consider discussing whether you have sampled the omakase and what interesting items it contained.  

[Charles Smith]

Cabrales-

My wife and I have done the omakase a few times- some of the better items have included live uni,  a fish that I don't remember the name of that produced 2 pcs of sushi per fish,  scottish salmon, a tremendous o-toro dish which was seared with a blow torch (the creme brulee version),  an interesting range of mackerals-  we've always sat at the bar and been served one piece at a time- eating at the table is a differenet experience-  the chef also does all of the "saucing" himself for the sushi portion- you do not have your own dish of soy sauce.  

Wish I could remember more specifics-  

Cheers,

Charles

[Liza]

From that description alone, I'm trying it.

[Akiko]

I really love Jewel Bako and if I could afford it, I'd be sitting at that sushi counter at least once a week.  I agree with the previous post in that, I've tried every "lauded" sushi restaurant in NY except for Yasuda and Kuruma (I'm frightened of the bill that I would get at Kuruma) and Jewel Bako easily wins.

The experience you will have at Jewel will be completely different if you get a place at the sushi counter or if you sit in the main room.  I highly recommend that for your first time, you definitely sit at the sushi counter.  The omakase is done at three different levels, I think it is 70, 100, 120 pp.

The sushi chef does indeed sauce all the dishes for you... it's not just the care he takes in making sure you have a perfectly seasoned and flavored bite, it's the care he takes in the seasoning itself.  He cures his own salt, okinawan sea salt cured with ume and bonito.  

The selection is vast with fish flown in from Japan and live uni, you are likely to find different specials of fish on the menu every time you go, they once had Super O-toro when I was there, the toro cut near the jaw of the tuna which is the fattiest grade, a fatter grade than o-toro and the first time I've ever seen it in New York.  It melts.

And their sake selection?  Lovingly crafted.  I know the nama sake that was complained about here and I agree, it's probably the worst bottle they have on the menu but I think the "unusualness" of the flavor and texture may be why it is on the menu instead of your standard nama sake.  The others are just as unusual in better ways.  Try the "devil's tongue" sake or if they still have it the sake infused with cherry blossoms (only available once a year after the cherry blossom season) or an amazing sake... named after a samurai and it has a blue zen circle on it, sorry I can't remember the name!

Everything they do is done with that attention to detail... but again, for your first time, sit at the sushi bar, you get a different level of service and get to witness firsthand the sushi chef's art.  

Make sure to get a cup of their green tea... it's beyond amazing, another example of how they have paid attention to the smallest detail.

Best,

Akiko

[cabrales]

Akiko -- Thanks for the detailed information   What does cherry blossom sake taste like, and when in the year should we begin calling Jewel Bako (or other restaurants in NY -- are you aware of any) to ascertain its precise arrival date?

[Akiko]

Cabrales,

I wish my knowledge of the stuff went deeper but I can only tell you what I've heard.

My friends in Japan say that 2001 is the first year that cherry blossom sake was ever produced, in Yamaguchi prefecture they perfected some technology that allowed them to create it... but sometimes I have to question their information so take that with a grain of salt.

My first experience with cherry blossom sake was at Jewel Bako where the gentleman next to me told me that it's only produced once a year... similar to beaujolais

So if those two facts are true... and I drank the sake shortly after "hanami" when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom, you could expect to drink it at Jewel Bako from late april at the very earliest... and depending on how many bottles they got in stock, you may still be able to drink some now!

Have you ever had plum wine?  If you take all of the cloying sweetness away and just taste that fruity fragrant essence and infuse it with a good quality ginjyo sake... maybe that's close to how it tastes.  Sorry!  It's hard to compare it to anything else!

When you call Jewel Bako for your seat at the sushi counter, ask them if they still have it!

Best,

Akiko

[SobaAddict70]

To all of the naysayers of Jewel Bako, I have to say, you need to go there again because in my mind, this little gem is right up there with Sushi Yasuda. It may not be as authentic as Kuruma Zushi, but then you're not paying for "authentic"-ness. What you're paying for is high quality fish of impeccable freshness, French culinary techniques as applied to Japanese cuisine (the sashimi/sushi version of Nobu), and such attention to detail that you can't help but wonder where in the world have I been and when do I get to go again -- it's that good.

I didn't take extensive notes of our meal, which is one of two mistakes I made this evening. The other mistake was not seating ourselves at the sushi bar -- something I will do on my next visit. The chef, Kazu, hails from Nagasaki and has had extensive experience -- I should note that JB used to serve fugu but does not do so at the moment -- from interaction with the waitstaff and our dinner, it showed in his presentation and composition of various dishes.

We had the $100 omakase, which consists of various hot and cold dishes, a superb selection of sashimi, a chef's selection of sushi, two desserts and Japanese petits fours.

As I did not take extensive notes, here are some highlights as I can remember.

Tonight, they had as many as 50 varieties of fish, several specimens flown directly from Japan and other specimens, locally caught.

Amuse-bouche: A small piece of cherry tomato, julienne of daikon radish and watercress, and a tiny piece of shrimp -- but this was not just any ordinary shrimp. This shrimp had a texture like tobiko and practically exploded in my mouth with flavor.

Fresh non-cured anchovies, scallions, and shiso, with a yuzu dressing. My companion had a hamachi salad with radish, julienned cucumber and daikon (I think).

O-toro tartare with creamy avocado sauce, topped with two thin slices of Kirby cucumber and a dollop of osetra caviar. This dish is one of JB's signature dishes, so please be sure to sample it during a visit.

Tilefish from Montauk, scallop with shinmeji (sp) mushrooms, sauced with a hot oil marinade.

Black cod topped with daikon radish -- can't remember the sauce -- served on a banana leaf.

Steamed eel (can't remember the garnish), sauced with a red wine reduction.

Agedashi miso, with Japanese chervil and enoki mushrooms.

Sashimi -- Copper River salmon, toro, Japanese striped bass, Japanese tailjack, bonito ebi shrimp, sweet shrimp, hamachi, and others that I can't remember. Freshly grated wasabi.

Sushi -- toro; a type of toro marinated in sake and shoyu for several hours; a shiso covered bundle containing finely chopped hamachi with ginger and scallions (with a smidge of rice); Japanese striped bass, and several other specimens that I can't remember off the top of my head. Pristine uni.

Coconut-litchi sorbet garnished with a fried lotus root chip.

Assorted mousses -- roasted soybean, green tea, dark chocolate, and two others.

Japanese petits fours -- peanut candies, green tea cookies, and some sort of clear gelee served with miniature sugar crystals.

We drank green tea and sparkling water. I don't drink, out of personal preference, although this type of food was made for the finest sake or white wine imaginable -- so perhaps some of the more experienced egulleteers would be willing to try?

We stayed there for a little over four hours -- every second worth it. The room is a small, intimate affair, with an overarching "roof" of bamboo, and enhanced by soft, muted lighting. A glass wall partition separates the front section of the restaurant from the sushi bar in the rear. Tables are spaced far enough to allow for intimate conversation (the sound level does not get uncomfortable, factoring in the soft jazz played in the background), while allowing for privacy.

JB does not usually accept walk-ins, most seatings are reservation only.

[cabrales]

Soba -- When you have a chance, could you discuss what the restaurant advised regarding fugu? Is it the potentially poisonous fugu from Japan, and where there any indications as to when it might be available? Also, was mention made by the restaurant of the experience it has with this product?

[SobaAddict70]

Their fugu was vacuum packed and cleaned out, so no danger of accidental poisoning.

No mention as to a time frame reference re availability, but apparently Kazu has the appropriate licensing necessary.

[Mao]

Curious that they would have fugu now, as to my limited understanding its rather seasonal, and the season is winter.

[Mao]

Actually I have been thinking about going for ages, and am heading there tonight. Will provide opinion soon.

[cabrales]

Cabrales-

My wife and I have done the omakase a few times- some of the better items have included live uni . . .

Charles -- When you have a chance, could you consider describing the "live" urchins you had at Jewel Bako? For example, how could you visually confirm they were alive -- did they "move" in a very limited manner?

I have been exploring "live" clams recently, as discussed in the Sushi Hatsu thread.

[Mao]

I went to Jewel Bako for the first time last night and must say I had a very impressive meal ordering the $100 omakase at the sushi bar. I had a superb glass of Pinos Gris and Montrachet as well. There were far too many dishes for me to recollect everything I ate, though the o-toro with caviar was out of this world. The strengths of the restuarant based on one sole meal are clearly in the creative combinations of traditional Japanese ingredients and very fresh fish, which were works of fine textural and taste craftsmanship, as you would expect from great Japanese cuisine. On the flip side, I thought the sashimi dish was the least impressive plate I was served, perhaps because it was not subject to the same degree of creative tweaking. The raw scallop to me was the give away. Once you have had an ur-sample of fresh scallop, not unlike uni, its hard to endure a piece that isn't at its absolute freshest. But most of the other pieces of fish were excellent, and the sushi that came later in the meal was almost good as any I have eaten in the city, including kuruma or yasuda or gari. The sake they have on offer is very good, though there were a few miscues, there were also a few homeruns (I got to sample a lot of the sake for free in tiny tastes for some reason). The wine list is also very limited, but also brilliantly chosen, so everything was well paired with what we ate.

I actually spent a decent amount of time being served with and conversing with Jack Lamb, the owner, who said he wanted to very consciously create a small place where the quality control and service was first rate. I have been increasingly been coming to the belief that the reason that ADNY and Jewel Bako work is their smaller scale/ fewer sittings. They really care about the quality of food and service and it shows. This was the best Japanese meal I have eaten this year, and one of the best dining experiences I have had outside of France. It will be interesting to see if they replicate the experience on my next trip. On first meal I would definitely give the place an A-. I give an A- because something deeper and passionate was missing in the food that I find at the best meals I have had at Gari, which seems the most comparable restauarant for some reason. Can't fully explain this yet.

[cabrales]

Mao -- You and Soba both had the $100 omakase. Are there other levels of omakase, or is the alternative to the $100 omakase a la carte? For example, if one wants to eat less, is there a lower priced omakase?

You compare JB to Gari, Yasuda, etc. Did you visit Sushi Hatsu before it closed, and, if not, were you tempted to sample it?

[Charles Smith]

Cabrales-

The "live" uni is uni that's delivered live to the restaurant and then prepared for serving later that night, typically in the original shell of spines. This is the way I've had it at JB- it's significantly better than "boxed" uni and as Mao suggests spoils you for that type in the future. I have seen the process done directly in front of the diner at a place in SF and it is amazing to watch-

If you want an amazing live experience look for a place that does live lobster- nothing like it- I've not seen it in NYC, only in Hong Kong and Vancouver.

JB does have a less expensive version of omakase, starting at around $70- it also has an extensive a la carte menu where you can have a great meal for a lot less money.

Cheers,

Charles

[cabrales]

If you want an amazing live experience look for a place that does live lobster- nothing like it- I've not seen it in NYC, only in Hong Kong and Vancouver.

Charles -- When you have a chance, could you describe the "live" lobster experience? Also, if you recollect, what specific restaurants are they available at in either city (Chinese pronounciations translated informally would be fine too)?

[SobaAddict70]

Cabrales,

JB has three levels of omakase: a $50 option, a $70 option and a $100 option. We went for the $100 option because I wanted to see what the restaurant was capable of at the highest level and if there was a comparison say, Kuruma Zushi.

When I go again (and I will in the next few weeks or so, so anyone who wants to come along, please PM me), it will be interesting to see if a) they can replicate my first meal there and/or b) if their other levels of omakase compare, that is, if the intensity of those meals are comparable to the top level option.

Soba

[cabrales]

Soba -- On the restaurant's ability to replicate, I wonder whether it would be inappropriate to indicate to a Japanese chef, under the omakase option, that one would like fewer, but potentially equivalent-quality, products under the lower-priced omakases as under the $100 one. I don't know if that would signal the receipt of less food that one might otherwise receive, though.

[SobaAddict70]

I guess what I was looking for, or wanted to say, was if the consistency was there, both on repeat visits and also on their other levels. Sorry if you (or anyone else) misunderstood.

We probably would receive less food -- there probably are less courses; I would think that the number of courses factors into the total price of the meal. For example, Sugiyama offers several levels, each having a certain number of courses.

This touches on something I've been ruminating for a while now -- the perception that one has, at least here in the US, on the concept of value as related to the issue of quantity versus quality...but that's probably another thread entirely.

Soba