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Unreconstructed Adrià?


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¡Hola, Ferran!

Here's a question inspired by some thoughts that my colleague Rafael García Santos was expressing a couple of years ago: He then said that he thought your next frontier, your next challenge, would be 'to work with large pieces'; to accept an animal's shape and texture as created by nature (say, a whole sea bream, a whole lamb's shoulder, a whole game bird) and turn it, without deconstructing and reinterpreting it as something radically different, into an inmistakeably 'Adrià dish' - i.e., incorporating textural, temperature, aromatic and flavor contributions that would change these ingredients decisively, without first having to (shazzam!!!!) making them disappear.

Many participants on eGullet tend to believe that such a development would run counter to the direction you have been on. I, personally, don't see it as too likely either! :biggrin: But what do you say?

Victor de la Serna

Victor de la Serna


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¡Hola, Víctor!

Having in mind that only a part of my cuisine is deconstruction and that I hardly used deconstruction techniques in 2004, I agree that the great challenge would imply to revolutionize the world of meat and fish (not shellfish (marisco)). The revolution would be to think of a new cuisine with a big piece of fish, or with a tenderloin steak. If we analyze the Nouvelle Cuisine codified by Guérard or Troisgros, we haven’t evolved that much conceptually speaking: new products have been incorporated to our repertoire, new saucing concepts. But the foundation of product + garnish + sauce has hardly varied. What has truly changed is dish harmony.

If you analyze the cuisine I’ve been doing since 1996, you’ll notice that there are few dishes of meat and almost none around a big piece of fish. There’s a lot of seafood, a lot of vegetables and fruits, some deconstructed dishes and many not deconstructed.

That said, this is the big challenge. I see it quite difficult: you can’t do too much to a large piece of sea base. That’s why, with meat dishes, I feel more at ease with offal, with small things, than with bigger things.

Edited by Ferran Adrià (log)

Ferran Adrià


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