Chez Catherine in Westfield

[rozrapp]

We don’t usually go to restaurants on Friday or Saturday nights, preferring the relative calm of mid-week or Sunday dining.  But since our anniversary fell on a Saturday, off we went last week to Chez Catherine, in Westfield.  

In her May 12th NY Times review, Karla Cook stated that this French restaurant has been around for 23 years.  That isn’t exactly accurate.  Here’s a bit of history.  Our first visit to Chez Catherine dates back to its early days when it was an uncommon restaurant for this area of NJ: haute French, 3 courses prix-fixe, and at a cost which for us back then was a special occasion splurge.  This first time was such an event that I still remember most of what I had: sautéed calves’ liver in vinegar sauce for main course, and poached pear in crème anglaise for dessert.  It was all over the top.  Through the years, we went back a number of times, first for special occasions and then, as finances improved, just because we enjoyed eating Catherine Alexandrou’s wonderful food.  Several years ago, Catherine decided to give it up, and another restaurant took over the space.  It was re-christened Chez Mamere.  The new owners were a lovely French couple; he was in the kitchen and she tended to the dining room. We thought the food extraordinary and became regulars, dining there most Thursdays for several months.  Unfortunately, they were poorly financed, and Chez Mamere closed.  Shortly thereafter, the space re-opened again under another name – I think it was the Rose something-or-other -- and another chef/owner who had previously worked with Andre Soltner.     We tried it twice – the first a good experience, the second a poor one – but it did not last long either.  For quite a while, I assume the space remained unoccupied, and then, a little over a year ago, I read that Catherine had decided to come back.  She was now Catherine Bourdeaux.  Her husband, Michel, was in the kitchen, and she was running the front of the house.  However, currently, she is back where she belongs, in the kitchen with her husband, and others are taking care of the dining room.  

We arrived exactly on time (8 p.m.) and were seated immediately.  Our dinner began with an amuse: salmon mousse on a crouton and a small mound of carrot salad.  Very tasty.  For my first course, I chose seared scallops in an orange citrus sauce.  Four very large scallops were done perfectly and surrounded a vegetable mélange of corn, spinach and asparagus.  Every bite was heavenly.  My husband started with  escargots bourguignons.  Six plump escargots in shells were immersed in the traditional garlic-laden butter sauce, redolent with a mouth-watering aroma.  My husband agreed that this was an excellent version of this classic.  

My main course was magret de canard (sliced duck breast) with the confit (duck leg) in an apricot sauce.  Accompaniments were a large portion of wild rice, and tiny portions of haricots verts and julienned zucchini.  My husband chose rack of lamb.  The meat was entirely cut off the bones and artfully arranged on the plate along with a generous serving of a creamy potato gratin.  (There was another vegetable, but I can’t remember what it was.)  When the plates were placed before us, it was obvious that the duck and lamb were done exactly as we had requested.  However, we then ran into the only glitch of the evening.  I discovered that my duck was barely warm.  Our server took my plate back to the kitchen, but left my husband’s.  After a few moments, when it became obvious that my food was not going to be returned that quickly, we didn’t want his food to get cold, so we called over our server and asked that she take my husband’s plate to the kitchen as well.  I do think that we should not have had to ask that that be done; in a restaurant of this caliber, BOTH plates should have been removed once the problem as brought to their attention.  A small but, I think, important quibble.  When the plates were returned, with apologies from the chef, everything was at the right temperature, and it all tasted delicious.  

For dessert, I had ile flottante, and my husband had nougatine.  Both were superb.  

I don’t drink wine, but my husband does.  He said the wine list was comprehensive and reasonably priced; however, he decided to order the house cote du rhone by the glass at $7.  It was excellent, and he had two glasses.  

The three-course dinner is prix-fixe at $40, which I feel is quite a bargain for the quality of the cuisine.  However, there are several menu items with supplements.  My scallops carried a $3 surcharge, and the supplement on my husband’s lamb was a pretty stiff $8.  Specials are printed out on a separate sheet with their prices, something I wish all other restaurants would do.  Though the restaurant was full, service was reasonably efficient, and courses came at a pleasant pace.  

The ambiance at Chez Catherine definitely adds to the fine dining experience.  The main dining room has only 34 seats.  With the different owners, the window treatments and wall hangings have changed, but one thing never has: the room has always been painted peach.  This color gives the room a warmth and a glow that is further aided by proper lighting -- bright enough to comfortably read the menu, while low enough to enhance the room’s romantic feel.  There was no background music, only the agreeable hum of conversation.  

In Chez Catherine’s first incarnation, there was a tie and jacket requirement.  But now this rule has been relaxed; while most of the men were wearing jackets, all did not have ties and a few wore no jackets.  Finally, different from the earlier years and, for me, a most welcome change, smoking is NOT permitted.

Many might consider Chez Catherine an “only on special occasions” restaurant.  I think it’s the kind of place to go to any time you are looking for truly excellent cuisine in comfortable surroundings.  And even if it isn’t a special occasion, it will become one when you dine there.

Chez Catherine

431 North Avenue, Westfield

(908) 654-4011

[Rachel Perlow]

What a lovely review. The only quibble I have was your quibble. When something is wrong with one person's food, I have never experienced the other person's food being removed as well. Is this just an old fashioned practice that you think an old fasioned place should retain? Or, do you expect this to be the case in most fine dining establishments?

[Rosie]

Thanks for the report. I haven't been there in years. However, I like lamb on the bone and for an $8 surcharge I want the bone!

[rozrapp]

RPerlow Posted on June 18 2002,17:04

The only quibble I have was your quibble. When something is wrong with one person's food, I have never experienced the other person's food being removed as well. Is this just an old fashioned practice that you think an old fasioned place should retain? Or, do you expect this to be the case in most fine dining establishments?

In a fine dining establishment, definitely, particularly if there are just my husband and me.  The reason -- If my plate is removed, my husband is left with a conundrum: do the polite thing and don't eat anything while waiting for my plate to come back and, thereby, let his food get cold; or, continue eating while I sit there feeling sort of like the proverbial bump on a log, and hope that he will not have consumed everything before my plate reappears, in which event, I will now eat while he sits, etc.  I guess what I am trying to say in a rather long-winded way is that the removal of both plates eliminates what is an awkward situation.  Plus, when I am dining with my husband, it is a shared experience, and we prefer to  eat the same course at the same time.  This situation has happened to us enough times over the years -- in restaurants plain and fancy -- that we have come to an agreement that if the server does not remove both plates, we will ask that it be done.     

Rosie Posted on June 18 2002,17:05

...I like lamb on the bone and for an $8 surcharge I want the bone!

I neglected to mention that the bones were there on the plate, standing up like proper soldiers.  Yes, for such a hefty surcharge, one should definitely get the bones!    

[Rosie]

Chez Catherine is now owned by Didier Jouventet and hsi wife.

Recently had dinner at Chez Catherine, Best Western Westfield Inn, 431 North Ave, Westfield. I was impressed that the wine list had wines as low as $18; the fixed price dinner was $45. A fixed price lunch is offered for $25. I enjoyed the food, not the service. We had: a seafood crepe surrounded with a coulis; shredded endives in a citrus and walnut vinaigrette with roasted peppers and goat cheese; mussels; and wild mushrooms in a puff pastry. Entrees were: chicken; salmon with a red wine sauce; tenderloin of beef "au poivre; "and rack of lamb. All were very good and came with delicious sides of whipped potatoes and al dente vegetables. Dessert was warm thin apple tart "a la mode;" raspberry cocotte; a raspberry cheesecake; and warm chocolate cake with chocolate oozing from the middle. This is a pleasant restaurant and certainly would be worth a return visit if I hear that the poor service improves.

[Allura]

Would you mind sharing what was bad about the service? I've been thinking of going there, and I'm wondering if it's the type of thing that would raise my blood pressure.

[Rosie]

Waitress kept disappearing. Water glasses were not refilled. Waitress brought wrong wine. Waitress gave the credit card receipt to the wrong table twice before we waved to her to tell her that it was our credit card. Wine not poured.

[Allura]

Ok, that's all annoying enough. Ah, well. Thanks.

[suzz]

However, currently, she is back where she belongs, in the kitchen with her husband, and others are taking care of the dining room.  

Unfortunately there is a sad FYI on this story. Catherine Bordeaux passed away a few weeks ago after a short struggle with cancer. There is another recent post with her Star-ledger obituary.

[babyluck]

I heard that too, through my French bosses who knew her for years. I have been there a few times, most notably on Dec. 23rd 1999, when I got a marriage proposal. That night, Michel's bouillabaise was pure nirvana -- to this day, I have never experienced fish cooked to such perfection. Everything on the plate could not have been cooked a microsecond shorter or longer. I said yes. Between the fish, the wine, and the glow of the moment, I was in another golden world until the waiter placed a plate with 4 raspberries on the table (we had a bottle of champagne going, needless to say) and said "Raspberries." It was absurdly funny at the time. Catherine was obviously touched by the sight of young people in love.

Earlier in the meal she fully gained my admiration. The waiter had bunched up the tablecloth a tiny bit when placing my escargots. I really hate tablecloth bumps for some reason, and I tugged lightly at the edge, but the way the table was set it didn't do anything. In a split second, Catherine had crossed the room to our table, moved a few things out of the way, whisked the cloth to hospital-sheet tautness, and replaced everything where it was. I was utterly charmed by her obvious drive for perfection, not just the appearance of it. I do hope the poor waiter didn't get his knuckles rapped or anything later -- the tablecloth bump was his only error all evening.

I thought Michel was in the kitchen every time I was there (between 1997 & 2000). Does anyone know when they switched? Because I've had the bouillabaise twice and the duck twice, and each one was perfect on one occasion and fell short (of perfection only) the other. Is it still open? Anyone been there lately?

[kal]

My immortal beloved and I went to Chez Catherine in Westfield last Saturday night. It is a cosy restaurant next to the Best Western Inn, great atmosphere, romantic, and excellent food.

The host / owner Didier welcomed us with a thick French accent, and was very accomodating and cheerful throughout the night.

The menu is pre-fixe (with several "supplements"). For appetizers, I ordered the Foi-gras, which was excellent, done just right. My wife ordered the pillow of seafood and lobter, which tasted great, and smelled just as good. She also had the salad. Our entrees consisted of duck for my wife, and lamb for me. The lamb was wonderful, reall succulent and did not smell at all. My wife's duck was equally as good, even though I am not a big duck fan, and frankly "leg confit" which was attached with the order simply freaks me out.... sorry.

We had some sorbet, and for desserts my beloved, may she live a long life, got the assorted fruit and cheese, and myself who simply does not wish to live as long, got the chocolate souffle.

I loved it and recommend the restaurant, and so does my wife. They have a huge wine selection, one of the best I've seen. However since my wife is pregnant and doesn't drink for the duration, I try not to also out of respect (I still had a glass of wine)

Kal

[Curlz]

We had some sorbet, and for desserts my beloved, may she live a long life, got the assorted fruit and cheese, and myself who simply does not wish to live as long, got the chocolate souffle.

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