PARIS BISTROS

[JayPeeBee]

For those who are going to Paris and like to eat in Bistros, I highly recommend "Bistros of Paris" by Robert and Barbara Hamburger.  I used this guide several times as well as their previous edition and found it to be reliable, accurate and extremely helpful.  I have taken French clients to places I found in the book and surprised them.  The book is avaliable on Amazon and B&N for about ผ-13.  The new edition is updated and current.  I was in Paris this past October and every meal was in one of the bistros listed in the book.  Not a disappointment among them.  The book is small enough to fit in your carry bag so you can talk it on walks and find places near where you are.  A word of caution, the better places are very small and often booked or filled with regulars, so if you have your heart set on someplace, call ahead.

[Margaret Pilgrim]

I'm afraid, JPB, that few of the posters to this forum will identify with the Hamburger's book, but I am equally certain that a majority of the readers will. I used the original edition with great success.  The writers are on point nearly 100% of the time, and their descriptions of dining rooms give prospective diners all they need to know before choosing and booking.  I used this book in conjuction with Patricia Wells' Food Lover's Guide to Paris, and found them in agreement almost all of the time.  The advantage of the Hamburgers' book is that it lists many, many more restaurants in the bistro genre.  I glanced over this latest edition in the bookstore, and was pleased to note that they had "found" all of the good addresses that we had added since their previous publishing.  Now I know that they are on the right track!  ;)  

Thanks for bringing this excellent book to the attention of this forum.

[robert brown]

Are you supposed to read it with a grain of salt and some ketchup?

[Margaret Pilgrim]

Not necessarily.  It pointed us to Le Villaret, which was one of our favorites for several years, no ketchup needed there, and to La Regalade, where over the course of our visits we have had to leave portions of more than a few dishes because of their injudicious use of salt.  :o

[robert brown]

Margaret, a clever, interesting and unexpected response. It shakes my belief in the Itentionist Fallacy.

[Margaret Pilgrim]

Robert, can you mean Intentionist Fallacy, or am I about to learn a new concept?

[robert brown]

I still haven't learned to type, Margaret. Perhaps I had best start writing my one-lliners in "Word" where I can use a spell checker! Will the new e-Gullet software have one?

[JayPeeBee]

Pilgrim:  I'm curious to know what you meant when you wrote that posters here would not "identify" with the Hamburger's Bistro Guide but readers will?  Do you mean that eGullet posters think they are beyond this book in their knowledge of Paris bistros?

[Margaret Pilgrim]

The short answer? Yes.  It's my sense that the majority of writing has pertained to high profile and multi-starred dining rooms.  And that while posts on lesser known (inexpensive to moderate) restaurants receive only passing comment from other posters, the numbers count, i.e., times read, indicates that lurkers make these among the most read posts.

Once again concerning your recommendation of the Hamburgers' book, I don't have a copy to refer to, but as I remember my fast perusal brought up such good names as Le Repaire de Cartouche, Le Troquet, Le Bamboche, old workhorse Astier, Dame Jeanne, L'Affriole, Clos des Gourmets, Le Pamphlet and other names that have been in the forefront of Paris food news, but below Michelin radar.  What I like most about this book is the way in which the Hamburgers describe so precisely and succinctly both ambience and food of each restaurant. They take the (negative) surprise but not the delight out of dining out.

(Edited by Margaret Pilgrim at 11:29 am on Jan. 10, 2002)

[JayPeeBee]

Ah. I understand your thinking.  Yes, the Hamburger's book was written after many years of experience with the three star contingent all over France, and they (and we) "graduated" to the "simpler" pleasures of bistro food.  La Grille, for example, serves a turbot with beurre blanc sauce that brings tears to my eyes.  The poulet vin jaune avec morilles at Chez Maitre Paul, the lievre a la royale at A Sousceyrac and the surprising menu and wonderful atmosphere at la Fountaine de Mars are places I doubt we would have "discovered" if not for this book.

[Steve Plotnicki]

Didn't the Hamburgers already publish a book about Paris Bistros in the exact same format? I checked the copyright page of this book looking to see if it a revised edition and it is not. But I can swear I have a book by them that is at least ten years old with the exact same format. Another book on Paris Bistros that is excellent was written by the creator of Paddington Bear, I forget his name. But the guides I find very useful are Le Guide Leby, which has both restaurants and bistros, and Le Petite Leby which focuses on bistros and wine bars. They are in French, but I've found them pretty reliable.

[JayPeeBee]

This is the third edition of this book.  The first, Paris Bistros and Wine Bars was published by Echo about ten years ago.  The second about five years ago. The one for sale now, with the red cover was published this past April.  There are a couple of excellent French language bistro guides.  Lebey is one.  There is also a very good one in German. But I read faster in English!

[Damian]

I'll chime in with a favorite Paris Bistro.  Chez Denise, also known as La Tour de Montlhery.  Located near Les Halles, a holdover from the proximity to the original market probably.  I can't remember exactly where.  Cozy, locals-only atmosphere.  Solid hearty food (cote de boeuf, etc.) but they also do some finesse work with fish.  I had a simple vin de table there that has stuck with me for years.  Wonderful place.

[JayPeeBee]

Chez Denis.. Yes...Love the place.  Very busy, good basic food, lots of it.  A good place to take someone who hasn't been to Paris before as a first experience.

[JayPeeBee]

Sorry, Chez Denise, Denise...my spell check finger didn't work.  I like their onglet and their sweetbreads.