roaming the Rhone

[jbonne]

we're planning a trip to the Rhone Valley (northern and southern) next month, and while we've got a lot of details planned, i thought i'd poll the very knowledgable posse here for additional ideas. our lodging and about half our meals are booked, so the primary thing i'm looking for are wineries that might actually be willing to accomodate nosy American writer-type visitors. (trip is fun, not work, but will likely result in some writing.)

any suggestions welcome for anything foodish -- restaurants, daily markets, &c.

if this has all been covered already elsewhere -- or if i should be x-posting in the wine boards -- just lemme know.

our itinerary:

Saturday 9/25 Entraigues-sur-la-Sorgues

(near Chateauneuf-du-Pape)

Sunday 9/26 Vaison la Romaine

(Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Beaumes, &c.)

Monday 9/27 Baume-de-Transit

(we'll be staying at Domaine Saint Luc, which among other things makes its own wine and hosts big nightly dinners, but amenable to other stuff. we may also try and squeeze in lunch @ Mondragon.)

Tuesday 9/28 Chanos-Curson

(just outside Tain L'Hermitage)

Wednesday 9/29 Ampuis

(we're staying at Domaine Barge, which makes its own Cote-Rotie and Condrieu, but looking for other Cote-Rotie domaines to visit.)

then we're off to Piedmont, which is a whole other post (elsewhere)

thanks in advance!!

[dallardice]

If you like rosé, there's a co-operative in the middle of Tavel (the village) which has all the Tavels available to taste. The staff there have always been very enthusiastic and helpful about guiding us to try different Tavels and it's great to see people with a real passion for their village's wine. I'd love it if they did the same thing in Chateauneuf-du-Pape!

[Scott]

in Vaison La Romaine eat at La Moulin du Houile - robert bardot is turning out great food.

in and around CNDP, try La Beaugraviere. great rhones on the list, and sooo much truffle. great value.

[GG Mora]

There's also a co-op in the middle of Gigondas (as I suspect there is in many wine-region villages) – Caves des Vignerons (which is probably what most of the co-ops would be called). Domaine des Bosquets is a particularly good Gigondas, and the estate is quite beautiful.

[jbonne]

There's also a co-op in the middle of Gigondas (as I suspect there is in many wine-region villages) – Caves des Vignerons (which is probably what most of the co-ops would be called). Domaine des Bosquets is a particularly good Gigondas, and the estate is quite beautiful.

many thanks, and thanks for the above suggestions, too. i've got the Gigondas caves on our list, and Bosquets is an excellent suggestion. will see if i can dig up an e-mail for them and request a visit, since i assume most of the estates there aren't open. (hence the caves.)

will have to check with my travel companion, but i think Beaugraviere is the Mondragon venue she was thinking of. and will have to check into the Vaison place, too.

hadn't heard of the Tavel co-op. i think it may be a tad out of the way of our route, but will see if i can squeeze it in. i adore their rosés, so would love to stop by there.

so far the toughest day seems to be Tain L'Hermitage, though i believe they may have a cave. the dream would be to convince the Chaves to let us pay them a brief visit, but not sure if i can pull that off ...

[Bux]

in Vaison La Romaine eat at La Moulin du Houile - robert bardot is turning out great food.

We ate there a few years ago. It was off season in December. The food was good, but what I remember most was getting the same garnish in more than one dish. In fact they served the garnish for one of the dishes as an amuse. I don't remember what it was. I remember enjoying it as an amuse, but I thought it the oddest thing in the world when it showed up again during the course of dinner. It was like having leftovers and really took the edge off the meal.