WTN: 4 '99 Left Coast Bordeaux Types

[geo t.]

1999 Quilceda Creek Columbia Valley Red Wine, $33.99, 14.5% alc.: A deep purple garnet turning pinkish at the rim, this throws a sweet oak, black currant, black berry bouquet, accented with hints of chocolate, blueberry and mahogany. The decidedly dry, stylish flavors echo, more or less, and the wine strikes a fine balance between the sweet oak and a Bordeaux – like austerity. It’s rich and refined, but the finish is crimped some by drying tannins. As it opens, it smells more and more like my mother’s cedar chest. Kim and Shar Douglas aren’t wild about this, saying that it isn’t worth the money, but I liked it quite well, and it should only improve with another few years in the bottle.

1999 Galleron Napa Cabernet Sauvignon Taplin Vineyard, $79.99, 14.2% alc.: This smoky dark garnet shows subtle sweet oak, cassis and black currant flavors and aromas, with hints of coffee and cedar; it’s actually sweeter on the palate than on the nose. It’s also sweeter and more fruit forward than the ’99 Quilceda Creek Red Wine, and a big note of chocolate comes out in the sweet cabernet fruit as it opens. Some burry tannins and acidity keep it from achieving an opulent texture, so it needs a few years to smooth off the rough edges of what impresses me as being a nice $30 – 35 Napa cab, but that’s all.

1999 Kathryn Kennedy Lateral California Appellation, 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, $49.99, 13.6% alc.: Ruby garnet in color, this shows a pretty nose of sweet toasty oak (not at all over done), black currant, plum and mahogany that follows through nicely in the medium to medium full bodied flavors with soft tannins, good acidity and a long finish. As it opens, a creamy quality emerges, and the mahogany character becomes more accentuated. Is this a very nice glass of wine? Absolutely. Is it worth $50 a bottle?! No way.

1999 Stonefly Napa Cabernet Franc, $37.99, 13.25% alc.: This ruby dark garnet cab franc show a pretty nose of red currant, blackberry, cranberry and plum, with flavors that echo nicely on a medium full bodied frame. Moderate tannins, good acidity and contrasting floral notes on entry and earth on the decent finish add bookend complexities; a smoky quality emerges with air, adding another element to the total package. Although this is drinking well now, there’s probably a few years worth of improvement, and if I’d like a little more heft to this, I can’t deny that it’s a fine wine, but $38?! I don’t think so. $25-30 is much more reasonable for what’s in the bottle.

Frankly, I’ve had ample opportunity to buy more of each of these, and even with a nice discount, the only one I would consider adding to the cellar from heck would be the Quilceda Creek. That’s my story, and I’m stickin’ to it.

Reporting from Day-twah,

geo t.